2seater

Injector impedance is in the 12-14ohm range so the amp draw is generally around one ampere. They are the saturated circuit style, hi impedance.

I am going to mention one last thing about the injector test: If there is 12v positive on the wire common to all injectors at the injector, and you apply ground to the other terminal at the injector, it will click if it is operational. Guaranteed. This bypasses all controls and impediments to making them work. If it does not click, it is either stuck or broken, or it already has ground applied to the injector but that would make it spray continuously if the fuel pump is running. Over and out

Do not take my word for the brown wire being the 12v positive at each injector. I believe it is, but that is from memory but I am not home to confirm. The other wire will be the ground from the ECM to fire the injector and all six will be different colors or a color with a stripe. They are individual control to sequence to the firing order if everything is working correctly. All six injectors being bad, or stuck, would be extremely rare as mentioned above. Two vacuum lines from the intake manifold run to the general area described: one is the canister purge for the charcoal canister and the other is to the vacuum modulator to the transaxle. Two steel lines welded together with short rubber hoses at each end. The other item a little further toward the rear is the cruise control servo and those vacuum lines come from the firewall area and the electrical connector is four or five pins.

I am not following what is being done in the tests above? Key on without cranking should supply close to battery voltage to the injector hot wire and remain steady. Key on should run the fuel pump for only a couple seconds so the fuel pressure may not reach full design pressure if the rail was empty.

The only thing in the air filter box is the intake air temperature sensor, and I don't know the color code for that. I meant to check the common wire at the injector itself which my memory says is light brown. That wire color will be present at all six injectors. The other wire at each injector will be a different color or possibly striped. This is the ground wire that the ECM uses to trigger the injector.

Do you have 12v on the common wire (brown?) to the injectors with the key on? If so, grounding the other wire at the injector should make it click. If that proves out, it is most likely the injector ground signal is missing.

What does it do if you attempt to start with the fuel pump wired hot? If it still won't start, do you still have spark?

???? Pressure good, then no good, varies up and down? 12v direct to the fuel pump prime connection bypasses all of that other stuff. Engine off, Fuel pump should run continuously and register ~3 bar on the gauge, ~43.5psi, and remain steady. If it can't do that, some basic things are not functioning as they should and you will be chasing your tail. Possible causes are the pump, fuel filter and the regulator. The regulator is a simple spring against a diaphragm which sets the base fuel pressure. If the diaphragm is intact, no fuel should leak into the vacuum line. Do that first

As far as I remember from doing them long ago, there are splices under both seats.

It is possible to have coincident failure of the cam interupter magnet. The item to most often fail in the cam sense circuit is the magnet, the sensor itself is more rare. I do not know of a diagnostic input for the cam signal but it does appear the 91 has a couple more data points in diagnostics, so I am not 100% sure on that. I know I keep mentioning this but I have personally observed crumbling insulation on the wires inside the front harness of a 90 and newer 3800's. It is the harness that ties the crank and cam sensor to the ICM. If the magnet proves to be in place, you might want to check the end points of the harness, ICM, Cam and Crank sensor as well as the main harness connection behind the power steering pump, not for continuity but for cross contact

We have drifted into the regional meaning of some concepts. I don't know the breakdown of where and why, but part of the country uses the term to "turn over" as running under its own power. Other parts of the country use that term to mean "rotating under external force or power". It is no one's fault but it does cause confusion and misinformation. Fuel pressure is good. Simply adding a bit of external fuel to the engine will tell pretty quickly if it is ignition or fuel related. The air inlet hose can be pulled off the throttle body and squirt straight down the middle through the screen

What was the fuel pressure number with the key turned on before attempting to start? If the actual pressure is <30psi, it is unlikely to start, hence the suggestion to bypass that with a little shot into the intake. Was the Prom transferred to the new ECM? It is an unfortunate truth that some of the rebuilt stuff out there may not be 100%

Spray a shot of starting fluid or gasoline in the intake and see if that makes it pop. If it has spark, and fuel pressure, the only thing preventing running might be the signal to the injectors. Should be a constant 12v on the brown wire at each injector with key on. ECM makes ground to trigger the injector.

A little story, related to pricing. I purchased all my tires for three vehicles from a local shop for more than three decades. I had a clunking noise in the front end, a Subaru in this case. At 190k miles I figured it needed struts at the very least. I asked the shop for a quote on struts, mounts, ball joints, sway bar links and frame mounts. The quote seemed way high as I had already considered doing the work myself and sourcing the parts from RA. I considered the shop owner a friend so I asked him why the huge parts price discrepancy for the exact same part number, KYB in this case. He got on speaker phone with his parts jobber to answer that question, while I stood there. According to them, my price from RA was less than the jobber could get them for himself. It doesn't make sense, but I do believe there are substantial differences which seem inexplicable. Take it for what it is worth🙃

The above is from Ryan @ GM Tuners

Good question on the mounts. I know all the Series 1 supercharged through 1995 and N/A engines through 1994 will bolt in. 1995 was the transition year where the S/C engines were still Series 1 but the N/A engines were Series 2. I am pretty sure the mounting is the same but Daniel would know for sure. Ryan at GM Tuners will know as well but is that information not available?? That was a Series 2 in Ryan's 87 Fiero, but I must admit discussion of what it took to bolt in was not discussed at that time. My car was turbocharged at that time, which is what he was helping me with, and it was uncommon to Turbo rather than S/C at that time.

When it comes to expertise on engine and transmission swap I believe Daniel is the best source on this site. Yes I put one together but it is a Frankenstein sort of build: a 1988 block bored .030" over because of rust issues, Australian Holden pistons 9:1 compression, 1988 reproduction camshaft, 1990 heads from my original engine, 1995 Supercharger and front drive assembly and I think the crank and rods from a 1989. The best bet is to find an entire 1994 or 1995 S/C L67 engine, complete with accessories and warranty. I used a 1995 core grade donor engine from a Riviera, but upon disassembly it was found to already have a reground crank and .020" over pistons. I am still using the original 1990 transaxle with 147k miles on it. It is the best of the hydraulic transaxles with all the updates from the previous model years. This trans has survived three other turbocharged engines over the last two decades, with more or less hp than the present S/C engine. Any trans can be destroyed by abuse, especially dead stop drags, even with a stock engine. This is not to say a transaxle transplant is a bad idea, it is just the assumption that the engine alone will cause it to self destruct is not correct. The stock ECM can be programmed to accomodate the tables needed for the S/C engine. Any more than that will require greater expertise. As Barney alluded to, the Fiero guys do this sort of thing regularly. My suggestion is to contact Ryan at GM Tuners. A very knowledgeable and helpful person in my experience. This is his car on the left from 2007 and a description. The car on the right at the strip is a Corvair on a RWD donor chassis and a 455 big block Buick engine which you would swear was factory done.

I went out and looked at the two engines on stands, one has the LN3 intake and the other is the TPI from a L27. The pipe that connects to the front cover behind the water pump, pipe #2, is the same on both engines. The pipe that connects to the intake manifold near the bypass hose, pipe #1, is similar but different. The water ports on the intake manifold for the pipe and the bypass hose are reversed left to right when looking at the front of the engine, and they also vary slightly in height above the centerline. In short, the LN3 and L27 are identical on the front of the engine except for the intake manifold plumbing.

I would contact Jim Finn in the vendors list at the top of this forum. Great guy to deal with. I am pretty sure pipe #2 is the same for the LN3 and the L27 you have. Also believe pipe #1 is different between the two engines.

If it has been converted to 134A, the connections for gauges and charging should be a different size/style. What are you using to recharge the system and do you have a gauge? The blower running is almost certainly a failed blower module. Located on top of the air plenum to the heater. Above and left of the blower motor when looking directly at the blower.

Paypal, Venmo or another cash app transfer?

I know it is called a proportioner, but when looking at the interior design, it pretty much looks like an asymmetrical tee. The early Reatta has 4-wheel ABS sensors, but only 3-channel control so it treats the rear brakes as one system with two calipers. I have never tried it, but it sure looks like a simple tee would suffice. It is possible the internal passages are reduced to act as limiters, but the Teves2 system uses boost pressure from the booster pump directly for the rear brakes and that is modulated at the master cylinder.

From the look and the fact that the lines are clipped off, I would bet every steel line from about the drivers seat to the rear are being replaced, and I have done a few. Relocating the valve will make life much easier. Actually, doing so equalizes the length of the two brake lines at the rear. Simply connect to the original ports and the flex hose that jumps from the body to the proportioner area can be eliminated. All fittings are metric M10 x1.0 bubble flare on 3/16" tubing

That is the rear brake proportioner. I know it looks crusty on the outside, and you will likely need a vice and small pipe wrench to remove the fittings, but I would bet it looks clean and new inside. The part itself is unobtanium and has not been available new for many years. I always relocate it to the front center of the rear crossmember held in place by a steel wire bundle clamp. Route new steel lines to the original ports and it will work just fine.

Pull the radiator when removing or lifting the engine to add clearance and save from damage.