Karlw144

I’ll try that tomorrow. Put my last new O ring in 2 days ago. I’ve been cycling the pump (with ignition switch) and haven’t driven it since. Still dry as a bone tonight. I’ll continue the cycling tomorrow and put some tissue below. Thanks for your help. karl

For 2seater, I see that you’re in Appleton, I grew up in Shawano and I’m pretty sure we played each other in sports back in the 60’s. Live north of Detroit now, but sure enjoyed growing up in Wisconsin.

It’s not leaking out of the electrical connector where the harness plugs in. I was wondering, and after looking at the picture of the subject switch, is there a way that it could leak out of the switch body? (there are several holes after the O ring and before the threads). I have no idea what those holes are for, but they are after the O ring. The fluid seems to be coming right past the threads. What really confuses me is that it seals perfectly for 3 or more days. I do a key on to run the pump even if I don’t drive it, and it’s good for awhile. 🤔🤔 That switch is not from my car.

It’s not leaking out of the electrical connector where the harness plugs in. I was wondering, and after looking at the picture of the subject switch, is there a way that it could leak out of the switch body? (there are several holes after the O ring and before the threads). I have no idea what those holes are for, but they are after the O ring. The fluid seems to be coming right past the threads. What really confuses me is that it seals perfectly for 3 or more days. I do a key on to run the pump even if I don’t drive it, and it’s good for awhile. 🤔🤔 That switch is not from my car.

It’s not leaking out of the electrical connector where the harness plugs in. I was wondering, and after looking at the picture of the subject switch, is there a way that it could leak out of the switch body? (there are several holes after the O ring and before the threads). I have no idea what those holes are for, but they are after the O ring. The fluid seems to be coming right past the threads. What really confuses me is that it seals perfectly for 3 or more days. I do a key on to run the pump even if I don’t drive it, and it’s good for awhile. 🤔🤔

1990 convertible, 66k miles. Had a problem with the pressure switch on the master cylinder, leaking brake fluid through the switch, coming out of the electrical connector. This was a very minor leak, but was a bother. Brake system worked fine, no lights or issues. Picked up a used good switch and installed it. No leak, system works fine. Depending on usage the system leaks brake fluid past the switch and drips below the body where the switch is installed. This may take anywhere from 3 days to 3 weeks, depends on how much I drive it. When I pull the switch the “O” ring is usually swollen or deteriorated. I put a new ring on, no leaks for several days. I’ve tried several different kinds of “O” rings and it happens with all of them. I believe I’ve tried buna-n, viton, nitrile, EPDM, all leaked. I’m using Dot4 brake fluid and have been flushing the system every couple of years. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks karl

Your comment starts with overheating with the a/c on. My understanding is that both fans should run on low speed whenever a/c is on. Then as required as a result of increasing coolant temperature, first one fan and then the other should switch to hi speed. By replacing the one low speed relay and the two hi speed relays (all under hood in the control box on the left inner fender) I was able to get the fans on my 90 convertible working correctly. At times one or two bars past top center on the temperature gauge is ok, at least that’s where it peaks on mine, then the hi speed on the fans brings the temperature back to normal. I don’t consider any of this as overheating, just the way it’s designed to work. But, then again, I could be totally confused🤔🤔. karl

It was advertised in the Bugle and in the Reatta Road, and in the Reatta FB groups Featured Buick car was the Reatta. I enjoyed being part of the event and meeting some of the people that I’ve been communicating with on various forums, this one included. Not sure about future events. karl

Can’t remember for sure, but did the compressor come with a charge of oil? At one time you had to count that as part of your oil charge. You might have too much oil in the system. I’ll try to do more research. karl

At a bare minimum you need at least a low side(suction) gauge to get a feel of the charge in the system and see what happens when a/c is requested. Any and all ports will leak refrigerant if the required cap is not installed, and if the “O” ring is missing in the cap it will still leak even if the cap is installed. If there is no charge in the system then the leak must be found and repaired before the system is properly evacuated and recharged. Proper tools are required to figure out what’s going on. karl

Did that on my last car, and it still went right over my head, just temporarily,lol. Thanks

Thanks, looks like I need to make a little tool and find a replacement sensor. I’ll try local with a couple of guys that have parts cars. Thanks karl

Is it an easy replacement? Availability? It wasn’t covered by anything. thanks karl

I’ve got the “headlights recommend “ indicator on the dash of my 90 Reatta lit up even though it’s bright and sunny outside. Thought I saw something about this on Ronnie’s website, but I couldn’t find it. Any ideas? thanks karl

I’ve got the “headlights recommend “ indicator on the dash of my 90 Reatta lit up even though it’s bright and sunny outside. Thought I saw something about this on Ronnie’s website, but I couldn’t find it. Any ideas? thanks karl