Karlw144

Your comment starts with overheating with the a/c on. My understanding is that both fans should run on low speed whenever a/c is on. Then as required as a result of increasing coolant temperature, first one fan and then the other should switch to hi speed. By replacing the one low speed relay and the two hi speed relays (all under hood in the control box on the left inner fender) I was able to get the fans on my 90 convertible working correctly. At times one or two bars past top center on the temperature gauge is ok, at least that’s where it peaks on mine, then the hi speed on the fans brings the temperature back to normal. I don’t consider any of this as overheating, just the way it’s designed to work. But, then again, I could be totally confused🤔🤔. karl

It was advertised in the Bugle and in the Reatta Road, and in the Reatta FB groups Featured Buick car was the Reatta. I enjoyed being part of the event and meeting some of the people that I’ve been communicating with on various forums, this one included. Not sure about future events. karl

Can’t remember for sure, but did the compressor come with a charge of oil? At one time you had to count that as part of your oil charge. You might have too much oil in the system. I’ll try to do more research. karl

At a bare minimum you need at least a low side(suction) gauge to get a feel of the charge in the system and see what happens when a/c is requested. Any and all ports will leak refrigerant if the required cap is not installed, and if the “O” ring is missing in the cap it will still leak even if the cap is installed. If there is no charge in the system then the leak must be found and repaired before the system is properly evacuated and recharged. Proper tools are required to figure out what’s going on. karl

Did that on my last car, and it still went right over my head, just temporarily,lol. Thanks

Thanks, looks like I need to make a little tool and find a replacement sensor. I’ll try local with a couple of guys that have parts cars. Thanks karl

Is it an easy replacement? Availability? It wasn’t covered by anything. thanks karl

I’ve got the “headlights recommend “ indicator on the dash of my 90 Reatta lit up even though it’s bright and sunny outside. Thought I saw something about this on Ronnie’s website, but I couldn’t find it. Any ideas? thanks karl

I’ve got the “headlights recommend “ indicator on the dash of my 90 Reatta lit up even though it’s bright and sunny outside. Thought I saw something about this on Ronnie’s website, but I couldn’t find it. Any ideas? thanks karl

Right on with FSM, especially for our Reattas. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated. Those considerably younger think everything can be found on the internet, not so with the Reatta limited production. thanks, karl ps. Also ME6 from GMI😁😁

40 psi is good with the ac running for 2 minutes. However, could also indicate a lower than normal charge. Still think you must have a wire shorted out, or bare somewhere so that it blows the fuse.

Not familiar with the details, but I have a decent machine shop (don’t weld) and would offer help from that side when someone figures out what’s required. karl

I’ve seen notes related to this known problem, but. cant find the details. I’m looking for part number/manufacturers to replace the oil pressure sending unit used on my 1990 Reatta. thanks karl

Mine went into storage today. Just received a new top from East Coast Reattas and it will be installed in April. I’ll get my new kicker rear speakers installed before then. Late fall present was a completely rebuilt original factory radio with added,Bluetooth. Waiting for spring😂😂

My system (‘90 convertible) was normal most of the time, occasionally got yellow/ red lights and a hard pedal, and never new when that was going to happen. Had a questionable pressure switch (fluid in the connector body) and replaced the switch. No change. Put a new accumulator on, no more warning lights of any kind, and never a hard pedal again, and the brakes seem to be superior to how the worked previously.

Drove my 90 convertible at the Woodward Dream Cruise on Thursday night and a few hours Saturday morning. LOTS of cars, trucks, rods, you name it. Was high 80’s and slow going, and, did I say hot! Running production thermostat and fans, never got either fan on hi, worst gage reading was one bar past straight up. Was very happy with that. Didn’t see another Reatta, but got lots of thumbs up and many questions about my car.

Padgett, is that a top from Marck? Did you do it yourself? Are you happy with it? Thanks karl

Yes, it has the glass window and the interior “headliner”.

I’m getting to the point where I need to consider getting a new top for my ‘90. Top is roughly $1000, and installation is about the same. Has anyone here attempted to do their own top installation? thanks karl

There’s also 3 underhood relays to turn the fans on. They are in the relay center on the drivers side fender. Both fans should come on low when ac is selected. Then they should go to hi as conditions dictate. I can’t remember for sure, but I think there is one relay that turns both fans on low (when the ac is turned on) and then there are two more relays that will each turn one of the fans to hi. I replaced all 3 on my 90 and they work as described. Sometimes just unplugging and plugging together a couple of times will clean the contacts enough that they work ok. How this helps.

Also ask your mechanic if the replacement compressor came with an oil charge. Usually they do. If you added additional oil, and the compressor had oil, and there already was oil in the system, you also might have a problem with too much oil in the system. Hard to diagnose and correct. If there was no refrigerant in the system when you tried to charge it, 18 oz is definitely not enough. Let us know what you find out from your mechanic.

Mine’s a 90 convt and I’ve only owned it for a couple of years. Sometimes sits for 3 weeks or more, always fires right up. Just headed for winter storage, battery tender will be used through the winter.

Congratulations on the milestone! I know that I sure appreciate all the help I get from the forum.

Finally got the thigh bolster working as it should. Just kept working it forward/reverse a couple of times a day and shooting a little more oil into the gearbox on each side every week. Gradually it turned a couple of turns in each direction, and one day, bingo, full travel.

I took the seat out and all the rails and motors off the seat. The bolster motor is tucked up in the bolster, centered across the seat. It drives two cables that each drive some sort of gear mechanism, one on each side of the bolster. The motor runs both forward and reverse and winds the cable in each direction, maybe 2 full turns and quits turning. The mechanism on each side should drive on a screw to move the bolster. I tried shooting some penetrating oil into the mechanism, didn’t seem to help much. I could not figure how to get the bolster and mechanism separated from the seat. Seats back in for now and everything underneath and the seat have been cleaned. Bolster still doesn’t move☹️☹️