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  1. I have often wondered if the mount is a good heat sink or does it add heat to the ICM from the radiated heat from the front exhaust manual? I suppose a temperature gun might tell the tale.
  2. Very interesting. Is that front fascia below the stock Reatta lights actually bolted on place? It certainly does lend a different look and opens up other lighting possibilities
  3. Check the vacuum connection at the fuel pressure regulator for evidence of fuel in the hose and check the O2 sensor activity and cross counts in diagnostics
  4. I know it happened on the red car my son has. Even though the pedal can be pulled all the way back we could only get the light to go out by getting underneath the dash and pushing the actual cable attachment to trip the switch. Perhaps not so on all of them but I suspect there is a pedal stop not directly attached to the sector gear for the ratchet?? I know that diagram looks clear, but it certainly isn't easy to access in the car🙄
  5. Just make sure the parking brake arms on the rear calipers are back against the stops or they may drag. You should look at them anyway as it will give an idea if they are the cause of the slack cable.
  6. If the cable under the driver is hanging loose when the parking brake is released, the problem lies under the car. Either a sticking cable, return springs on the aforementioned arms on the rear brakes or my favorite, the equalizer connector inside the rear crossmember where it can rust enough to sort of collapse together when the parking brake is applied.
  7. I don’t know for certain what the issue is, but under normal conditions, the ignition timing should increase from the idle reading by a few degrees when dropped in gear to help pick up the increased load. No specific reading but usually around 20 degrees in park and a bit more in gear. Check diagnostics to see if it picks up the load properly. Same for IAC counts.
  8. Of course. The fans are designed to operate together. Neither runs independent of the other for both cooling and a/c operation.
  9. The prime connection can be used for testing purposes and perhaps a short drive. The fuel pump runs continuously when the engine is running in any case, but in case of emergency, such as an accident, the pump will keep running even if the engine is not, so it is not a permanent solution. With the gauge attached to the fuel rail, with the engine running, and without the fuel pump hotwired, what does the fuel pressure look like? It should be over 40 psi with the pump running and the engine off (actual spec is 43.5psi), and it should reduce to the mid 30's psi with the engine running. Blipping the throttle should instantly show an increase in fuel pressure and then back down at idle speed. There are three paths for the fuel pump to get power; through the relay on the firewall, through the oil pressure switch inside the sender and through the test connection. It should be pretty straightforward to determine if the fuel pump is at fault or one or more of the control systems?
  10. I don't want to jump into the middle of sorting out the fuel pump relay but related to that, did you try starting and running the engine with the fuel pump hotwired through the test connector? It will not do any harm and may help track down the running poorly due to fuel or spark, or maybe both.
  11. I must admit I am not clear about the conditions under which the readings are obtained. Ronnie gave sound advice to start with the fuel pump tests. I have described the following experience elsewhere some time ago but it illustrates what I think you are describing: I recently had a Reatta that showed low fuel pressure, less than 35psi with the key on and engine off. After the fuel pump did the two second prime from turning the key to run, the fuel pressure bled off almost immediately. It struggled to start without help, like a shot of ether, but the fuel pressure never rose above 33psi with the engine running. This was enough to allow low speed driving but any aggressive throttle or trying to go too fast caused the car to hesitate and bog. As the pump heated up from driving the pressure gradually decreased. What was found later while investigating was the fuel pump had been replaced at some point but the hose used to replace the factory pulsator did not have clamps installed. The hose fit loosely and allowed the pressure to partially leak away causing all the issues. By the way, the fuel pump power can be checked by probing the green connector that hangs in the vicinity of the brake power unit. This connector runs directly to the fuel pump, bypassing everything. A test light or VOM will tell you if you are getting power to the fuel pump when the key is first turned on and alternatively, 12v can be applied to the connector to Hotwire the fuel pump and cause it to run.
  12. It does get confusing when many numbers get bounced around at the same time🤪. I did mean that the O2 sensor reading, ED07, should be constantly moving. The usual range it circulates in is .2 (lean)-.8 (rich), with the crossover between rich and lean being around .45v. The cross counts, ED18, is the rate at which the O2 signals the exhaust is crossing over this target between rich and lean. There is no set figure for cross counts but generally the higher number, the better. Single digit cross counts at hot idle and in the teens and more while driving indicates a good operating system. Just a suggestion, but an inexpensive infrared temperature gun might save toasted fingers when looking for an underperforming cylinder🙂 Getting to the rear exhaust would be an adventure but you are on to a good and useful means to narrow the search. You can also go into the override section of diagnostics and turn individual fuel injectors on and off to check for changes in idle quality. Sometimes it is helpful when doing a balance test to disconnect the IAC after a warm idle is achieved or the ECM will adjust idle speed to cover for a dropped cylinder.
  13. I hope you meant ED07 when you typed ED08? Under what conditions were those readings taken? The engine must be warmed up and the exhaust hot to be sure the O2 sensor is active. If that is the case, then the ED08 should have been moving around constantly or the sensor is either dead or reading a very lean mixture. This can be caused by a misfire, which may read lean, or with both the fuel integrator and block learn maxed out, the ECM is adding as much fuel as possible. A misfire plus adding too much fuel will run very poorly. Check the fuel pressure just to rule that out. Just an outside chance and it does no harm: disconnect the MAF and see if it runs cleaner. If someone else pulled the plugs, does that include the rear ones? Unless done one at a time, and reconnected before moving on, it is quite easy to switch two of the rear ones, how well I know🙄
  14. E044 is an O2 sensor code for lean. Have you checked the fuel pressure? What does diagnostic live data show for O2 sensor activity, ED07 (voltage) and ED18 (cross counts)? Related to this are the two fueling indicators ED19 Integrator or short term adjustment and ED20 Block Learn, long term fuel adjustment. Were the coil pack and ICM both replaced? If this is a spark issue you may have two cylinders out, that would be #3 and its mate, #6. Were plugs and spark plug cables checked for quality and is there any chance plug wires were crossed on assembly?
  15. You can't go wrong purchasing from Jim. The 1990 is a one model year headlight switch. Maybe not related to your original reason for taking it apart but I highly recommend installing a headlight relay harness to take the headlight load from the switch.
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