2seater

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  1. Often an EGR leak causes a rough or hunting idle, not so much a power loss. The system is generally pretty reliable but can get coked up and need cleaning. There should be no EGR at idle or full throttle but in between the flow varies and can be monitored in diagnostics to see if you can see a correlation between EGR commanded flow and engine performance. You can block the EGR completely to test with a thin metal strip under the valve or even a couple layers of metal foil type duct tape or even aluminum foil. You may expect some ping or knock with the EGR eliminated under some conditions.
  2. Wow, that should take care of you for a day or two😎 I don't know directly where to find brush springs but do you have a local motor repair place? We have one here but I have no sample to use for comparison.
  3. As Barney mentioned, the addition of a relay to take the load from the headlight switch was a running change in 1990. Early production '90's don't have the relay so all power runs through the switch. I know mine did not and I burned up two expensive switches before I realized what was happening (80/100w headlights). IMHO the other side of that coin is the headlight wiring is too light gauge (16ga equivalent) for any sort of wattage upgrade and marginal for even the stock lighting. Just my opinion, but even stock headlights can benefit from a relay harness upgrade, partially for the load on the switch, but primarily to lessen the voltage drop in the stock harness, even with the late model relay addition which did not improve the wiring. As with Daniel, I too have separate hi and low beam relays, all homemade, but the aftermarket harness discovered later does the job without much sweat.
  4. I don't remember that fix either but I remember having some issues when I added two relays using hi-power conventional bulbs. Daves89 discovered his LED headlights worked fine after installing an aftermarket headlight relay harness. In that case I believe the ground is provided by the coil in the relay. Without a path to ground on shutdown the lights will stay open.
  5. Amazon says it won't work either. Our switch does indeed have pins in place of spades, although they are semi-square.
  6. It sounds like you have a good handle on what's going on and that makes sense. Overall I thought the readings looked pretty good. The transition between open and closed loop can expose small things covered up when open loop, like vacuum leaks or maybe a sensor giving bad info. I think you are on the right track.
  7. You mentioned a buzzing noise when your wife was in the drive through. I have found this sometimes lets you hear things in the confined space that are normally inaudible, and this may be perfectly normal, but the first thing that popped in my mind was fuel pump. It could also be brake pump or maybe just a normal engine noise, but I would check the pump runs when it should and confirm fuel pressure. That said, it appeared to me the BLM was trending upwards indicating it was adding fuel. While this isn't totally unusual at idle because everything, including the O2 sensor, are cooling off, it gave me the impression at that point it wanted more fuel. By the way, the video clip was helpful.
  8. Agree it sounds like a fuel problem so fuel pressure makes perfect sense. Long shot would be the low fuel level allows the pump to overheat or uncover the fuel pickup. Is the bottom of the tank dented? I had a Saturn work car that had a twelve gallon tank but was impossible to fill beyond about ten gallons even after it had run out of gas, so don't assume anything.
  9. Ronnie's photos are always so helpful. That one closest to the camera is the vacuum purge line from the canister and since it is outside the throttle, there is no vacuum there. The next one back with the elbow is the fuel pressure regulator and the last one on the left (front) side is the vacuum modulator. Be careful with that one. If memory serves, the steel line actually inserts into the plastic nipple with a rubber sleeve over it. The small one on the right (rear) side is for all the vacuum to run the HVAC system and cruise control, while the large line should be capped off , and be sure it isn't falling apart. Common part on the LN3 engines in the salvage yard. Others may look similar but are slightly different and may not seal to the manifold. I make my own with a small solid aluminum or nylatron blocks and brass serrated nipples. It is odd it is taking this long to track down a vacuum issue. The simplest way to eliminate the spider as an issue is to pull the bolt and lift it just enough to slide a piece of duct tape underneath, sticky side down. As for the time needed to get it to run properly, that is the opposite of what I have seen in the past. Cold engine start it runs in open loop, elevated rpm and richer than normal so it sometimes covers up vacuum leaks or other small items which are exposed when the sensors come online and take over.
  10. There are several vacuum lines connected to a plastic box on top of the intake manifold just behind the throttle body, perhaps what they are referring to. It does get brittle with age and heat and is easy to crack or break a hose nipple if not cautious. I didn't see a year in your post but 88-90 have the PCV system buried on the right rear of the intake plenum and can also be a leaker, but less common.
  11. This is similar to the valves I used, but are quite a bit more expensive. I found these on ebay, where I got the first ones from. You are looking for micro solenoid valves, 12v, and they must exhaust when unpowered, so three ports total. I will help if I can. https://www.amazon.com/Fincos-DS-0520ST-Position-Solenoid-discouraged/dp/B07RTMLQN9/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=12v+micro+solenoid+valve&qid=1566313474&s=gateway&sr=8-10
  12. It lifts straight up and out. The screws are indeed a bit of a pain to get to.
  13. I am so glad you took that car Dave. I thought about it long and hard but while I like the looks of a black car, I don't want to own one. I am sure you will treat it well. I did the rear manifold restriction modification several years ago for VV not sure if it got on the car 🤔
  14. I have a '95 L67 on my engine stand but I haven't opened it up to see what may actually be different. I do know some of the part number differences between cranks, rods pistons etc is due to things that may or may not actually be higher performing. For example, in '91, the engine changed to a one piece rear crank seal, requiring the crank and block to be machined differently. Some later models have floating piston pins which are different rod and piston part numbers, and may or may not be stronger. I know a roller trunnion rocker appeared somewhere in the '93 and later time frame, but they won't swap into the earlier engine. I am not sure about cam profiles either, but in general from what I have seen, the cams are actually what would be called milder. In any case, most will not swap backwards into the earlier engines. The bearing diameter is larger and use a different cam retainer system.
  15. I have been away but I certainly have used and will continue to reference ROJ.