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About 2seater

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  1. X2 on an ignition fault causing the symptoms you describe.
  2. I have questioned the necessity for conversion as well. I installed a new compressor, condenser and accumulator last year and had it recharged with R12. Yes, it was $65 or $75 per pound, but before doing the replacement, I had the system evacuated by the same shop, and they gave me credit for the R12 remaining in my system. They will not refill with R12 unless it passes a vacuum check, but that's the way it should be in any system. I am sure there are good and valid reasons for converting, but it certainly isn't a requirement.
  3. It is installed from the outside of the front cover so it should be possible to R&R in the car. Have not done so on a Reatta but have on implement engines
  4. The original Prom for the car model and year must be transferred to the new ECM or at least one with the same part number or weird behavior will result.
  5. There have been a few questions unanswered so far. What is the actual fuel pressure, if it runs better with MAF disconnected, do you have the old one to swap back, or even a junkyard one to try? Timing chain? How many miles? In answer to the fuel pressure regulator, it responds to vacuum level in the intake manifold, the purpose being to maintain a constant pressure drop across the injector. High vacuum, such as at idle, will reduce fuel pressure, and conversely it will rise as throttle opening is increased. It is very responsive and the relationship is approx. two inches hg vacuum for each psi of fuel pressure, so mid thirties fuel pressure at idle is normal, remove the vacuum line to the regulator and pressure should be near three bar or forty three point five psi. Heavy throttle beyond a certain tps voltage will cause the engine to run open loop, so the ecm will ignore some sensors and use the base fuel and timing map burned into the Prom.
  6. Agree, I use Milton brand as well.
  7. Is the rest of the story on page 2? 😣
  8. I had a somewhat lengthy reply from yesterday that disappeared?? In any case, I wondered the same thing about the fuel pressure and made the assumption that a competent shop that replaced a bunch of items would at least do something so rudimentary, but now I wonder. I share Pagett's concern about the modern lack of diagnosing a system from decades ago. Much can be gleaned from the onboard diagnostics, but some things are outside of its ability, although some things can be inferred from other information. I believe in previous posts in this thread that the timing chain was suspect and was that ever looked into? I noted the comment about a "hole in the exhaust", assuming that means a noisy leak? If there is a leak near the O2 sensor, such as the rear manifold flange to head or the donut seal to the tailpipe, it can suck air in and it will fool the O2 sensor.
  9. Odds are there is either a leak causing the MAF to misreport actual flow or it is defective. Best to swap sensors if you have a spare. What is the reading at idle? We just swapped MAF's on my sons Reatta for a poor or non existent idle coupled with a new O2 sensor which cured his idle. In his case, he was getting an occasional MAF code.
  10. I call that "listening to the song of the machine". True story from my trip home after winter storage yesterday: I turned the radio on to adjust the time and such, aftermarket 25 year old Pioneer din and a half, and discovered it is non functional, then remembered I noticed that last year before I put it away🙉
  11. Good to know and very interesting. The '90 and up do not have that big harness in that location so maybe a factory running change for a very obscure problem.
  12. Double or triple check the spark plug routing, particular attention to the rear cylinders. It is very easy to get two wires swapped around. It has happened to me😣
  13. Almost seventeen year lag for this answer??
  14. I wish I could sort out all of the information presented. In the Reatta's case, the standard accumulator is .25liter capacity and the Hydac that was found as a replacement has a .33liter capacity, a bonus in capacity, and the gas pressure charge is compatible. I have tested a few on my test rig and I had one Wabco that was loaned to me to test and it appears the pre-charge is slightly higher, maybe 1100 psi or so, also a good thing in my view. It is also .33liter capacity. All of the larger capacity accumulators will require some modification of the strut tower brace, usually just spacer washers under the mounting on the drivers side. I tried "squashing" the bar in my press but it is very tough with insufficient result alone. Incidentally, I have not looked into previous posts as the correct one but that STC2784 part number sounds very familiar as the correct one. Reatta working pressure is 2000psi for pump restart-2650psi pump off, and the instrument panel indicator lights are in the 1400-1500 range to turn the lights on and 1700-1800psi for lights off.
  15. There is a Wabco unit out there also. I had some of that stuff bookmarked but that computer is having a nervous breakdown. The Wabco is priced well and is larger capacity than the standard, as is the Hydac.