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About 2seater

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  1. It is a sort of air seal to help keep underhood air from being sucked into the HVAC air inlet at the base of the windshield.
  2. As it turns out, a 1/4" socket to remove the central power stud nut is all that holds the entire lighter socket together. Ten or eleven pieces can be taken apart, cleaned and buffed, and reassembled. All good.
  3. Battery connections verified, and HVAC control head disassembled, cleaned contacts and replaced. Cigar lighter fuse and wiring are good and it appears the lack of power thru the socket is due to misc. debris buildup. I made a mistake (imagine that) and the lighter itself was not stuck in the down position🤔 I have a dim memory of a latte being spilled over the top of the console many moons ago, which apparently worked its way into areas previously undiscovered and little used. The upshot is the lighter socket has a lot of buildup in the bottom and difficult to clean, so replacement would be the best option, but that is proving difficult. I cannot get the large "nut" on the bottom of the lighter socket shell to rotate. The shell is located by a single plastic tab that extends through the shell but that seems too fragile for the amount of force required but perhaps I am looking at it incorrectly? It has been ages since I have installed a socket like this and would appreciate suggestions.
  4. 10 4 on that. It hasn't been out of storage very long and the battery was replaced just a few weeks ago, but I didn't install. I will check that out. Thanks.
  5. I have been trying to use my '90 as more of a daily driver so this weekend it was headed for the cottage. This is not a long drive, only 50 miles, but we finally had a bit of warm weather. I thought I could check a couple of things along the way, so this is more a story of what I didn't do. Leaving town, I noticed a couple of things; my gps wouldn't work, and the outside air temperature appeared to be off? First I discovered the lighter was apparently stuck in the down position, how it happened I do not know, but I would guess the fuse blew or something worse is wrong. The second thing was the temperature reading was 20*F too low, 67* to be exact, but when I engaged the a/c system, which I replaced last year, the reading suddenly corrected itself? This has never happened before to my knowledge, but I soon noticed the hvac control unit would not raise the temperature when the button was pushed. It would go down, but not up, so I went back to econ mode and sweat a bit 😛 The non-operational gps meant I couldn't check/compare the speedometer to the gps as I had planned. I had reprogrammed the pulse divider for the speedo readout when I did the chip for the present engine, and I wanted to double check I was close. I guess it's time to do a bit of exploration and repair.
  6. I truly hope it stays fixed but I have always wondered how adding additional alcohol, generally methyl or isopropyl in gas dryers, helps absorb moisture in fuel that already contains up to 10% alcohol (ethyl)? One bottle of Heet is roughly 10% volume of a gallon so it is little more than 1/2% in a full tank. Kind of a head scratcher. Running a non-ethanol fuel would certainly change the situation.
  7. Diagnostics should be able to monitor what gear the ECM thinks it is in. I don't know if you have used the 4th gear lockup delay device I sent you several years ago, or not, but a fault with the connection at the transaxle maybe??
  8. I had to look back further than I remembered getting them, which is par for the course as I get older. I found my order from 2015, which is shown as unavailable today but there was a suggested replacement from the same vendor, for a few bucks more of course🙄 Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFZRB96/ref=dp_prsubs_2
  9. I have about fifty 12v led's in various colors, the same ones I use on my brake pump/accumulator test rig. I will put a selection together for you. Really handy to use in various places although somewhat fragile Oops, slow typist
  10. Good point! I had forgotten the wiring runs around under the front of the engine area and is much more subject to damage. I had a cam sensor issue with my derelict '89 and discovered a cut wire that cured the problem. The wiring to the cam/crank/knock sensor are routed over the top right of the engine on the '90, nothing underneath.
  11. It is under ECM data in diagnostics which comes after the codes, but I am not as familiar with how it is displayed on the crt. I know there is a more complete listing on the '89's vs the '90 I am more familiar with so hopefully someone with the crt can guide you more accurately. The engine must be running to be able to display live data.
  12. You are right about that and I guess I wasn't addressing the turn signal directly, just reference to the totality of the problems. When I hear about lights and such that activate dimly but not where they should I usually think of a fault in the switch or wiring where the grounding is poor and it seeks ground through whatever path is available.
  13. I saw and commented on another post on this subject, but the PROM must be transferred from the original ECM to any replacement. The Prom is blue and approx. 3/4" x 4.5" long, located under the removable cover on top of the ECM. Without a Prom, it won't run and the wrong one may do unpredictable things.
  14. With the peculiar and changing gremlins, there is no doubt the under-seat splices should be examined and repaired. It is a common issue and as mentioned, may fix things you didn't know were broken. Dave pointed out my inner brake/turn lights at the rear did not function, which led in a roundabout fashion to the aforementioned splices, that not only cured the turn signal circuit, but also the remote trunk release, and courtesy lights in the drivers door.
  15. Daniel is on the button regarding the timing. It is a simple matter in diagnostics to call up the ignition timing being commanded so I would do that first. You did transfer the original EEPROM to the replacement ECM, correct?