2seater

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  1. I don't want to pile on either, but a compression fitting like that, even if it sealed, doesn't have the pressure rating required for the brake system. It is also difficult to get that type to seal on a steel line that won't deform. Usually they are used on softer materials, copper for one, but also plastic with an inner support. The flare is pretty straightforward to make, with a little practice, far easier than an inverted double flare as used previously. The fittings illustrated earlier weren't what you used???
  2. Good deal on the o-ring seal, I had never seen such before in similar applications. I admit I am a bit lost on the term compression fitting. I saw the reference earlier and assumed it was used in a generic sense as the parts pictured were not a conventional compression fitting as I know them. What did the end of the tube look like that broke off of the steel brake line? This is a bubble flare as used on the pump output steel line.
  3. You have been busy. I have never had an early '88 pump pressure line apart so this is only conjecture: usually I see some form of crush washer, usually copper, on both sides of a banjo style fitting. Was there any remnant of a visible seal on the hose fitting?
  4. Yah just never know where things may go in the future. Younger generations not into cars as much? Or as I have mentioned in the past that my 1975 AMC Pacer: on the ugly car lists, orphan car lists and the butt of incessant jokes, appears to be worth similar money to what this car just sold for. And that's not for a pristine example. I am sure everyone knows I am more in Dave's camp, or I wouldn't modify and fool with them as I do. Just different strokes. I do enjoy driving it and the Reatta experience, but not as an investment. JMO By the way, I do agree with Y-Job that the white letter tires were the wrong vibe. They just need to be remounted black side out.
  5. 12 packs are always good, oh wait, we're talking about brake lines☹️ What is depicted looks exactly like what you need. Disassemble at least part of it for a sample as suggested.
  6. Good advice here. I don't think there is a proportioning valve anywhere near the front, there is something at the rear "axle". I replaced all the brake and fuel lines at the rear on my '89 with splices approx. under the driver. Butt splice fittings and such are readily available for the flares and work well, plus easy enough to do under the car where there was a straight run.
  7. I guess there may be some hope for adapting early and late styles. I didn't dig too deep but google brings up this when searching for banjo to bubble flare adapter:
  8. I cannot help you with what the broken line does or where it is routed, but I can tell you the steel lines use metric bubble flares and fittings. The nice thing about bubble flares is the ease of making them with hand tools vs the typical double flare from days gone by. Regarding the connection difference at the pressure port of the pump: you will see the difference when the hose and steel line fittings are removed. There may be some sort of adapter out there that attaches with a banjo bolt and has a female metric bubble flare to transition to your steel line but I do not know where.
  9. Is that car still there? I wish I had snapped more detail but I think my mission was for a S/C engine on that trip.
  10. I think this is what we saw but it isn't really a remote or maybe I don't have a pic. It looks like a similar setup to ours but attached differently and it looks like a banjo fitting below the accumulator but no detail. Maybe the Ford setup from a T'bird?? On pic is pretty good the other is blurry☹️
  11. There was some sort of Rube Goldberg setup on it. I will look through my photos to see if I took a pic. Good memory😉
  12. Out of the box thinking which I like greatly. I think I would use a brake hose with that banjo bolt to transition to steel line, as large a bore as possible, as hose clamped connections at the expected pressure would be less than adequate. I would have to be faced with complete loss of standard type supply of accumulators to pursue at this point.
  13. You can remove the accumulator with a strap wrench or even a big pipe wrench if the assembly is already removed. It may get scarred up but it shouldn't hurt it. It only needs to be hand tight, same as the pressure switch, as long as the o-ring is intact and they will not seal without it. The lessons learned from mistakes will now be yours for life, not such a bad thing. As mentioned before, if the junkyard unit is an '88, be sure it has a steel pressure line and not the hose, they cannot be interchanged, unless the entire assembly is replaced.
  14. The accumulator is sealed with an o-ring and only needs to be hand tight to seal. My guess is your pump is just fine but the o-ring has been deformed or blown out by tightening while pressurized.