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About Danteval1

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  1. Honestly, you guys have been awesome. Pile as much as you want on. I did the fitting and spliced the lines. I bought a flare tool kit too. The repair I have is not permanent. I had to completely redo it because everything was leaking. Now, everything’s is fine. I have to buy a new accumulator. When I do, I’ll replace all the lines.. I no longer have an air/fluid passing sound in the brake pedal. When I get the accumulator in the next few week, I’ll replace the lines. I drive about 2 miles a day. Seems like my rear brake caliper is seized. Parking brake does not work. Anyway, thanks for the help, it was a success.
  2. Ya, it was a bubble flare. This is the middle one to the rear brakes. I’m not getting why they use brass. I chewed this up like bubble gum. I also attached a photo of a compression fitting, the one I used. I need to get some flare wrenches to do this right. I’m trying to get my lines to be air tight like a fishes ass. It’s not so far.
  3. I took a look at the breakdown of the ABS unit. On either side of the banjo is an o ring, there is a key attached to the image in the shop manual and it states O-Ring. I tried bleeding the brakes and I got no pressure. I hooked up a vacuum pump connected to a clear hose to try sucking the air out of the lines and it was bubbling like a bong. This leads me to believe that my union fittings were were not seated right, it drips. I did not flare the line connecting the union, figured that is why they call it a "compression fitting". Im going to flare and try to seat this thing properly. I have a three day weekend ahead of me, my goal is to finish it by then. The pump works, i'll probably need another accumulator, it appears to be from the factory. I took apart the other pump on the other Teves, and they appear to be interchangeable. I now have two pumps. Once again, Thanks for the help. I have more and more confidence as the time goes on. I would have had this fixed by now, but I work full time and go to school full time.
  4. Just to update the thread. I was able to put in the new ABS unit. I took a narrow file and shaved a little off the inside of the push rod. I got all the fittings to work as well. I wasn't able to get them flush, but I did tighten it as far as it can go. When I started the pump, oil started spraying from the banjo fitting like a submarine. After the trauma of no o-ring on my accumulator and my genius idea to over crank, I bought a pack of mixed O-rings. I put some extras on the banjo and it sealed it up, when i doubt O-rings (im learning). The pedal still sinks to the floor and I have no brake pressure. I need to purge air from the system. So far, I don't see an leaks, Im nervous about how the the compression fittings and fittings/lines connecting to the ABS will hold up, but Im confident if I have to redo it. The motor would engage contentiously when the banjo fitting missed its O-ring, after I fixed that, the pump motor would shut off. I have zero brake pressure, but I haven't bled the lines. I called it quits around 3 am. I hope that when I bleed the lines, I will have pressure. Thank you Daves89 and 2seater. This would have not been possible without your suggestions. It went in, I just need to get it operational. Since I have an extra Teves ABS, I am going to experiment with trying to accommodate a remote accumulator.
  5. The only thing I am finding online is that I need to shave the pivot point to insert the push rod. It was a pain to get off so i imagine it could be to get on. Ill take a small hand file to it to slightly open it up. Im seeing what other people do is have someone step on the brake all the way, then ill be able to connect it to the pivot through the fire wall in the engine bay..
  6. Yes, I did. They are Identical. I may just switch them out to be safe, but this is a challenge. I may create a new post in hopes some fresh eyes see it.
  7. There is a 1998 Range Rover in my local pick your part. I dont see the accumulator, would it be on this 1998 model? 1998 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER
  8. Is there a special way to reattach the brake pedal to the unit? I can seem to fit it back through the hole.
  9. Dissembled and Scrubbed the abs unit. Tomorrow, I’m going to thrown new lines and bolt this guy in.
  10. Ok, I will do that. Thank you for all the suggestions. I went from being prepared to replacing all the brake lines to just splicing the sections i've destroyed. Ive seen comments by Jim Finn, and he said that old fittings can be reused, just clean them up and it will be easier than trying to find new fittings. Ill give this a shot, if not, I spoke with the manager at Auto zone, and all their fittings and unions are located in the back stock but he said he'll let me look around back there. Im going to try and finish this by tomorrow. This whole things has been a headache, but seems doable after this post. Best regards, Dante Arthurs
  11. Ok, I am going to buy some steel brake lines. So, your saying I can leave the cut pieces but conjoin them through a fitting? I live in California so I have zero issue with rust. Im okay with keeping my brake lines. Could I use one of these fittings below and repair the few sections that I need rather than replace the whole line?
  12. OK, I am just going to stick with the unit from an 88 and put it in my 89. I need to remove the brake lines and install new ones. I can rent the bubble flare tool from my local auto store and I can get the right brake line. I just need to know where that connects. I believe those lines connect to the proportioning valve. So, Ill just have to disconnect at the valve, fashion some new one, use the old fitting, and bolt it up. Hopefully I can breeze through this. All this trouble because I herd a "psss" sound when I stepped on the brakes. Thank you for letting me know the banjo to bubble adaptations. It was helpful in case I need to Frankenstein this.
  13. It’s a rubber hose so I’m replacing the whole unit. I attempted to remove abs unit from my car. In doing so, I bent and broke one of the brake lines. I am going to have to replace the brake lines on my car. Not an easy task for someone of my skill. Trial by fire I guess. I am am going to swap the pump, reservoir, and switch. I don’t see why a larger diameter fitting could be made to accommodate the new from an 88 to an 89’s pump/accumulator. So far, I am researching how create new brake lines. As always, and tips will help.
  14. Yup, the o ring was torn but I thought it could still make a seal. I removed the pump and accumulator set up. Since I tighten the accumulator so tight and stripped it, I cannot remove it. I may just take the other pump from the yard. A lot of rookie moves done today, but at least im learning.
  15. Ok, I think I need to remove the whole assembly. I tried bleeding the pump of air, as per the instructions. Pumped the brakes about 25 times, loosened the accumulator, turned the key to engage the motor. When I attempted to tighten the accumulator back on, brake fluid started spraying everywhere. In a panic, I attempted to tighten it further thinking it would seal it up, but I only stripped the accumulator hex on the top. So, my plan is to remove the old unit from the 88 and put in my 89. Crossing my fingers it works. I figure I can Frankenstein a working abs unit with the two I will have. Any thing I should look out for when I am installing it in my 89? Or, if you have experienced this exact problem, what can be done? Interesting though, I drained some of the fluid fluid from the assembly, and the old brake fluid was black with little floaties in it. Guess it was due for some maintenance.