Danteval1

Hello, I cant find clear information relating to the 1989 Reatta motor mounts. It seems the 1988 and 1989 are slightly different. If you can post the part number and its location in the engine bay, that would be helpful. The web page is typically out of service when ever a link for it is posted. Best, Dante Arthurs

Hello, It appears that I have fixed my poor gas mileage. I was getting about 11 mpg since I first got the car in November of 2019. Things I did that didn't fix the issue: Replaced spark plugs with double iridium Replaced O2 sensor Replaced spark plug wire set to AC Delco Changed air filter Changed vacuum valve that connects the servo and cruise control regulator. (had to do it a second time. I'm guessing I broke it when installing my ABS unit. Cleaned air filter housing and intake, MAF and IAC. What did fix the issue?: There is a vacuum hose that connects to the transmission, I noticed what looked like a disconnected vacuum line, put my finger against it and felt suction. Looked around and found the line. There are two of them, I belive the one I had disconnected was to the trans. I am not getting about 18 mpg with SoCal stop and go. Whats next to fix? I have a horrible clunk when shifting from park to reverse or drive. My AC system is non existent. Im not sure how I want to approach fixing it. I may go the the junk yard and take the AC components from a 95' or later, clean it up, and install. On paper it sounds easy. My oil pressure keeps saying "low oil" when I have plenty and 41 psi. Passenger door ajar is driving me nuts. Anyone know how to fix, restore, or replace this component. My parking break does not engage the caliper. Removed wheel, cranked on the parking break, and saw the arm move on the caliper but no movement from the piston. Last but not least, I need my frickin accumulator... I've been calling spinning wheels every week and the individual on the phone keeps giving me lines from the movie The Ring "seven days" for the past five weeks. If anyone has any tips on how to attack whats next on my list please let me know. Other than that, the car is perfect. I worked really hard to bring it back to life. I created a video on me restoring the paint. Ill post it once I have a proper ending. Thanks for your help everyone. I hope I didn't annoy anyone, this killed the last thirty minuets at work. One last thing, I found a Reatta on craigslist in Irvine California. He had a tire blow out and was parting out the car. I had first dibs and got everything I wanted off the car for $100, this includes the craftsman log, Reatta pen, and tire pressure he just gave me. I then took all the interior components out for him to sell. He told me to sell it and split the cash. Eastcoastreatta's bought it all within the hour, Thanks Marck!

Dave89, 2seater, and ronnie, I was able to get this done with the information you provided. Someone posted a question on the Facebook group and I made this videos as a test with never the intention of publishing it. I figured it would be easier then me showing him how then writing a long post. I'm looking to post more videos on the car so I can add to the information for future drivers. I'm waiting for Spinning Wheels down in Florida to receive a new shipment of accumulators. When I get my new accumulator, I am going to replace the entire line for the ones that I spliced. Piece of mind so i'm not a menace on the road. So far, the lines hold fine with no leaks. My pump engages every time I step on the brake and the red brake light goes on. I don't really drive it far or often and I know exactly why the light is coming on, so its not the biggest concern and can last a few days like that. Expect more videos from me in the future. I enjoy thoroughly documenting the car. This weekend I am going to post a time lapse of me using a clay bar on it. The paint feels rough and gross no matter how much I scrub. I clayed half the trunk as a test and it came out crispy. I haven't been on in about a month, thanks for all the support and positive feedback.

Hello, i created a video on the removal of my ABS unit. I hope some may find it helpful. I know little about mechanic repairs. I’m in college so I had to do what I had to do to make this possible. I am going to continue posting videos on my repairs. https://youtu.be/Xzc44I09lYU

Honestly, you guys have been awesome. Pile as much as you want on. I did the fitting and spliced the lines. I bought a flare tool kit too. The repair I have is not permanent. I had to completely redo it because everything was leaking. Now, everything’s is fine. I have to buy a new accumulator. When I do, I’ll replace all the lines.. I no longer have an air/fluid passing sound in the brake pedal. When I get the accumulator in the next few week, I’ll replace the lines. I drive about 2 miles a day. Seems like my rear brake caliper is seized. Parking brake does not work. Anyway, thanks for the help, it was a success.

Ya, it was a bubble flare. This is the middle one to the rear brakes. I’m not getting why they use brass. I chewed this up like bubble gum. I also attached a photo of a compression fitting, the one I used. I need to get some flare wrenches to do this right. I’m trying to get my lines to be air tight like a fishes ass. It’s not so far.

I took a look at the breakdown of the ABS unit. On either side of the banjo is an o ring, there is a key attached to the image in the shop manual and it states O-Ring. I tried bleeding the brakes and I got no pressure. I hooked up a vacuum pump connected to a clear hose to try sucking the air out of the lines and it was bubbling like a bong. This leads me to believe that my union fittings were were not seated right, it drips. I did not flare the line connecting the union, figured that is why they call it a "compression fitting". Im going to flare and try to seat this thing properly. I have a three day weekend ahead of me, my goal is to finish it by then. The pump works, i'll probably need another accumulator, it appears to be from the factory. I took apart the other pump on the other Teves, and they appear to be interchangeable. I now have two pumps. Once again, Thanks for the help. I have more and more confidence as the time goes on. I would have had this fixed by now, but I work full time and go to school full time.

Just to update the thread. I was able to put in the new ABS unit. I took a narrow file and shaved a little off the inside of the push rod. I got all the fittings to work as well. I wasn't able to get them flush, but I did tighten it as far as it can go. When I started the pump, oil started spraying from the banjo fitting like a submarine. After the trauma of no o-ring on my accumulator and my genius idea to over crank, I bought a pack of mixed O-rings. I put some extras on the banjo and it sealed it up, when i doubt O-rings (im learning). The pedal still sinks to the floor and I have no brake pressure. I need to purge air from the system. So far, I don't see an leaks, Im nervous about how the the compression fittings and fittings/lines connecting to the ABS will hold up, but Im confident if I have to redo it. The motor would engage contentiously when the banjo fitting missed its O-ring, after I fixed that, the pump motor would shut off. I have zero brake pressure, but I haven't bled the lines. I called it quits around 3 am. I hope that when I bleed the lines, I will have pressure. Thank you Daves89 and 2seater. This would have not been possible without your suggestions. It went in, I just need to get it operational. Since I have an extra Teves ABS, I am going to experiment with trying to accommodate a remote accumulator.

The only thing I am finding online is that I need to shave the pivot point to insert the push rod. It was a pain to get off so i imagine it could be to get on. Ill take a small hand file to it to slightly open it up. Im seeing what other people do is have someone step on the brake all the way, then ill be able to connect it to the pivot through the fire wall in the engine bay..

Yes, I did. They are Identical. I may just switch them out to be safe, but this is a challenge. I may create a new post in hopes some fresh eyes see it.

There is a 1998 Range Rover in my local pick your part. I dont see the accumulator, would it be on this 1998 model? 1998 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER

Is there a special way to reattach the brake pedal to the unit? I can seem to fit it back through the hole.

Dissembled and Scrubbed the abs unit. Tomorrow, I’m going to thrown new lines and bolt this guy in.

Ok, I will do that. Thank you for all the suggestions. I went from being prepared to replacing all the brake lines to just splicing the sections i've destroyed. Ive seen comments by Jim Finn, and he said that old fittings can be reused, just clean them up and it will be easier than trying to find new fittings. Ill give this a shot, if not, I spoke with the manager at Auto zone, and all their fittings and unions are located in the back stock but he said he'll let me look around back there. Im going to try and finish this by tomorrow. This whole things has been a headache, but seems doable after this post. Best regards, Dante Arthurs

Ok, I am going to buy some steel brake lines. So, your saying I can leave the cut pieces but conjoin them through a fitting? I live in California so I have zero issue with rust. Im okay with keeping my brake lines. Could I use one of these fittings below and repair the few sections that I need rather than replace the whole line?

OK, I am just going to stick with the unit from an 88 and put it in my 89. I need to remove the brake lines and install new ones. I can rent the bubble flare tool from my local auto store and I can get the right brake line. I just need to know where that connects. I believe those lines connect to the proportioning valve. So, Ill just have to disconnect at the valve, fashion some new one, use the old fitting, and bolt it up. Hopefully I can breeze through this. All this trouble because I herd a "psss" sound when I stepped on the brakes. Thank you for letting me know the banjo to bubble adaptations. It was helpful in case I need to Frankenstein this.

It’s a rubber hose so I’m replacing the whole unit. I attempted to remove abs unit from my car. In doing so, I bent and broke one of the brake lines. I am going to have to replace the brake lines on my car. Not an easy task for someone of my skill. Trial by fire I guess. I am am going to swap the pump, reservoir, and switch. I don’t see why a larger diameter fitting could be made to accommodate the new from an 88 to an 89’s pump/accumulator. So far, I am researching how create new brake lines. As always, and tips will help.

Yup, the o ring was torn but I thought it could still make a seal. I removed the pump and accumulator set up. Since I tighten the accumulator so tight and stripped it, I cannot remove it. I may just take the other pump from the yard. A lot of rookie moves done today, but at least im learning.

Ok, I think I need to remove the whole assembly. I tried bleeding the pump of air, as per the instructions. Pumped the brakes about 25 times, loosened the accumulator, turned the key to engage the motor. When I attempted to tighten the accumulator back on, brake fluid started spraying everywhere. In a panic, I attempted to tighten it further thinking it would seal it up, but I only stripped the accumulator hex on the top. So, my plan is to remove the old unit from the 88 and put in my 89. Crossing my fingers it works. I figure I can Frankenstein a working abs unit with the two I will have. Any thing I should look out for when I am installing it in my 89? Or, if you have experienced this exact problem, what can be done? Interesting though, I drained some of the fluid fluid from the assembly, and the old brake fluid was black with little floaties in it. Guess it was due for some maintenance.

Hello, I need to replace my ABS motor and pump. Can someone tell me what size are the bolts that need to be removed? What other steps are required to remove it. I see a large torx on the top, does that need to be removed? I am going to the junk yard and replacing my entire assembly from an 88 at the junk yard. I am doing this tomorrow, seeing how its my only day off for a while.

I called Spinning wheels (352) 209-4349, a company down in Florida, and said they have them and will have them until long after nobody wants them. They are $175 - no shipping fee. I specifically asked if they are meant for the TEVES II, and the individual on the phone said they are. They are new non NOS. That number is good for texting also. Ill be purchasing one soon.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I just got the car and i'm continuing to work on it. I did an emergency brake stop and the front wheels locked up, the rear didn't. My parking brake also doesn't work, i'm thinking it may be seized. I bought new brake pads for the rear to see if that engages the brakes. They were $15 wagers, so no harm. Ill see what I need to do in order to test the pump. Ill first bleed the fluid in the pump itself. Ill keep everyone posted and I appreciate the support.

Would a Brake Pressure Accumulator Bosch 0265202070 fit on my 1989 Reatta? I am wondering if this would be acceptable. Some sites have it on sale for about $50 and it typically retails for 100. I will call bosch to see if they can offer me a treat size. I read somewhere that Barney said a device can be created to accommodate an accumulator. Any help would be appreciated. I didn't add a link because I keep clicking on links that people have posted and the site is shut down.

Would that be under the dash? Do you happen to have a picture of it. I tried my cruise control, it works great and I was actually surprised with how aggressive it is in acceleration. Just to make it clear on what my brake issue is: My breaks make a hissing noise when I step on the breaks. Ill get 2-3 break pumps then I hear the motor engage. I am going to drain all the fluid and add new fluid. I keep hearing that air in the pump will cause the pump not to operate accurately. I need to find regular brake fluid. Every time I check Auto zone, they only have synthetic.

hello, I feel like I should mention this too, I passed California smog with flying colors. No issues at all. This was in November and i've been doing a lot of reading on the car since then. I think its giving me a false reading. Driving on the freeway, my RPM is 2075 at 75 MPH with the torque converter engaging. I'm still trying to fix many things on the car. My attention has shifted to fixing my Teves brake system. If anyone wants to comment on that, it would be a great help.