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  1. Thanks everyone for the ideas and help. I tried to just install the 21mm but it distorts very badly opening it up on that 23mm bar. I tried 3 or 4 different bushings from other cars that were 23mm but I could not find one that had a usable shape that fit the bracket. I also tried to cut one from a 2018 Chevrolet Equinox that was a 24mm and close to the same shape but it also did not fit in the bracket well. I finally took a set of the 21mm bushings (AC Delco 45G1455), put them in the freezer overnight and then drilled them out with a 29/32" drill... PERFECT! It works great and the drill actually worked better than I expected. It's not perfect but it clamped down nice and snug. The sway bar doesn't move up/down or forward/backward but it rotates nice and smooth with silicone grease applied to the interior of the bushing.
  2. I ordered that one (21mm). It's on the right in the picture below. The stock one is on the left. It's most definitely 23mm. This car is so frustrating! No listing for 23mm and you can't put a generic one in with that crazy offset bracket.
  3. Has anyone replaced these? My sway bar measures 23/24mm diameter in my 1990 Reatta. All of the parts houses show 19, 21, 28, 31 options none of which are close. What's up with that? I took off one of the old bushings and it looks like a 23/24mm ID as well. I'm confused! Why can't I find the right ones?
  4. Yes, I agree. The auto parts places are ridiculously expensive. RockAuto or Amazon... way cheaper.
  5. BTW... I do now have all three pieces to the J-35561. The -2 part is not tapered as some have speculated. It is just a cylinder but it has a lip on it the fits on the control arm flange perfectly. The -3 is the same but shorter and has a hole to guide the -1 piece into when pressing. I would be willing to make these available for loan to other members that need to do this job.
  6. D-a-n-i-e-l You were right. I bought some "Ru-Glyde" rubber lube like the tire stores use and lubed everything up. They pressed in just fine. You have to push in on the center metal part of the bushing and it stretches out as it goes in. Easy in my 20-Ton Harbor Freight press. I learned this: don't press too far in... stop when the metal top of the bushing is flush with the rubber and is centered in the control arm. Looks intimidating but it pressed in pretty easy!
  7. I pulled the CV Joint on the driver's side... there is a spline shaft protruding out through the seal. Has anyone changed this seal? Looks like (if I'm reading the manual correctly) the shaft doesn't come out without opening up the case.
  8. I was also wondering if anybody has ever tried a Cadillac Allante sensor? I know it was a completely different system (Bosch?) but the knuckle and CV joint appear to be the same part numbers so it would make sense that it would physically fit?
  9. Being new to the Reatta world, I see that many of the ABS wheel sensor threads/posts are older. Does anyone have an update on wheel sensors? How do you find them and does anybody have them? I need a front driver side...
  10. Well that's what I was hoping. A neighbor found my package with the J-35561 -1, -2, -3 that I got from somebody on EBay. The marking on the J-35561-2 is barely legible so I'm not sure it's the right one. It is just a cylinder with no taper and the bushing pretty much falls straight through it (it's a little bit bigger that the largest OD on the bushing) so I'm not sure that's gonna do anything! I also have bigger problems now as I pretty much destroyed the front left ABS wheel sensor getting all the rusty mess apart.
  11. Yeah, this is a strange looking rubber bushing with rubber flanges. It looks like it has to stretch out about 1/4” on each end or something. I just don’t see how that’s gonna go in that hole...
  12. Manual says to use a J-35561-1, -2, -3 tool to remove and re-install. The J-35561-2 is impossible to find. Does anyone have one they would be willing to loan? or does anyone know of an alternative for pressing this bushing in? Thanks!
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