doity

Members
  • Content Count

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About doity

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/26/1963

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks Jim, will send you an email. Thanks! Luke P.
  2. The piece on the passenger side was hanging loose and it came right off for regluing. The one on the drivers side was also loose so I tried removing it and got half way but there was a lot of glue in small areas which caused it to tear unfortunately. Does anyone have a line on one or maybe know a good place to get replacement fabric to cut to size? I could always go to a upholstery shop but they might charge more than really is justified. I also just got it back from the paint shop and had the trunk and hood repainted because the clear coat was starting to peel somewhat. They blended the paint great with the rest of the car. I also had them put new pinstripes. Prior to that last fall I had it in the upholstery shop for new headliner, repair and re-dye the seats and new speaker grille(s). So as you can see I am trying to get her ‘up to date’ the best I can. Though in hindsight I should had left the trim piece alone. Oh well. Thanks! Luke P.
  3. Talked to the mechanic today and he said that he did replace the PCV hose but that was not the source of the vacuum leak. He is certain that the leak is coming from the ‘Tree’ as he calls it and GM no longer stocks the seal or gasket. He said that they are working on fabricating a part so I should know in a day or two if that is the cause. Thanks for all all the great help guys. This board is like a godsend sometimes and it is good to know that there are other people like me who are gluttons for punishment by owning a Reatta. 🙂
  4. I should had said initially that it is a 1988. Ronnie I see your photos and that helps but are the 4 vacuum lines that you mention related to emissions? Because the main symptom is a lean idle and stalling. It does run fine after a good 20 minutes or so and I chalked that up to maybe the intake manifold gasket expanded a bit with the heat from engine and seals properly. If there were bad hoses I don’t see how it would run better once warm......unless I am missing something? I don’t mind paying for work that ‘needs’ to get done, but I just hate to throw money at an issue unless the mechanic is 100% certain.
  5. Thanks for the reply 2seater. How hard would it be for them though to isolate exactly where the leak(s) are coming from? They have had it close to a week now and it took me calling to even get an update. The mechanic there that I have been dealing with made it seem like he wanted to rule that out before delving in to the intake manifold but to me that seems like just they are avoiding any responsibility or at the least just trying to apply guesswork.
  6. I had a shop do some electrical work on my car a good year and a half ago. They are mainly a auto electric shop but also do general car mechanics. They initially did some work and also did a workup of all it would take my numerous electrical gremlins. The car was getting oil into the coolant reservoir and they replaced the intake manifold gasket. After doing all of the work, mechanical and electrical, I put the car into storage because it was still running like crap and it was not reliable. I took it out of storage a few months back and have slowly been getting it running somewhat reliably, except for the idle which is weak at startup and will cause the car to stall until fully warmed up and on the road. I took it to my mechanic for some fluid changes and a tune-up but he said that the plugs and wires were good but recommended a fuel system cleaning where he hooked it up to some machine which sends a chemical to clear out the Iines, injectors, etc. it ran noticeably better but he said that I had a leak in the intake manifold and he demonstrated this by spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold gasket and the idle cleared up, at least until the liquid dissipated. I called the other shop back and waited 2 weeks for an appointment. I told the mechanic that since I had only put 1,000 miles on the car since the work I hoped that it would be covered under warranty. They have it since last week and I finally called them and he said that he thinks that there are other vacuum leaks that he wants to investigate/fix first. He mentioned something called a ‘Vacuum Tree’ which is close to the intake manifold. I told him what my other mechanic said and he got a bit defensive. I don’t mind paying for real problems that the car might have but money is tight now and I need the car due to an emergency. Does the Vacuum Tree explanation sound plausible or should I just demand that they either fix their work or pay up? He did mention giving me a couple hundred back and I could have the work done elsewhere, or not at all I guess. thanks for any help!
  7. Anyone with a clean and operable cassette deck for the 88/89 models for sale please get ahold of me. I think the similar year Riviera’s with the touchscreen will work also. I know I can have mine repaired but would rather just swap one out and then send the other one off for repair at later date when I have more funds. Thanks. Luke Perry Portland, OR.
  8. Well I certainly can’t do a overhaul on an engine but I do have more than basic level knowledge of tools and mechanics. I grew up in an era of numerous shop classes and the whole ‘fix it yourself’ ethic. I’ve done basic stuff on the Reatta like swapping out the CRT, the engine computer, radio box, etc.
  9. Thanks Barney. It seems that the electric shop that fixed my touchscreen issues was the culprit. In their notes they mentioned ‘Dirty Air Filter’ but did not reach out to me to see if I wanted it replaced. And it was pretty bad. Judging from how hard it was to remove them you would think that they were twice as long
  10. Thanks Steve. I took it to my mechanic and he had a problem getting it off. He eventually used a impact screwdriver and he put some goop around the threads to prevent it from rusting again.
  11. After reading all 4 pages of the invoice carefully it appears that the shop initially diagnosed it as a bad BCM, and then after that didn’t work replaced the CPS. But after all that and checking the wiring and grounds the instrument cluster was still inoperative. So they had to find a remanufactured one, or maybe it was just used I don’t know because like I said they comped it for cracking the dash. I was having the same symptoms as the original poster.....the CRT and instrument cluster would just go on and off at random without any kind of pattern.
  12. I had the same issue a couple of years back. I still have the receipts but I do remember that he had to replace the instrument cluster. It took him a couple of months to diagnose and fix the problem(s) and this was at a auto electric shop and the mechanic was familiar with the Reatta as they have a regular customer who came in and thought they were working on his as both cars were in at the same time. if the original poster is still around and interested I will dig out the receipts and list what was replaced/fixed. I DO know that it wasn’t cheap and very labor intensive. UPDATE: OK I dug out my receipts. I forgot that the car was in for other issues beyond the instrument cluster and CRT but overall I shelled out over 2 grand......and that is with a ‘free’ instrument cluster as they cracked the dash replacing either the twilight sensor or the BCM. Anyway the culprits were the BCM, CPS, and the instrument cluster. See there, I just saved you $260 in diagnostic charges
  13. It looks like there are 2 large sized Phillips screws that secure the air box. My car was in storage for awhile and got a lot of moisture in the engine compartment and it is hard to loosen the screws and I think I might have over tightened them previous and I can’t find a screwdriver with a large enough head. My thinking was if I knew the size I could go to the hardware store and buy the right size tool and new screws. The old ones are already partially stripped and I don’t want to make matters worse. thanks!!
  14. Is there a good place to get a new Delco ICM? I called my local Buick dealer and they quoted over $600 I think it was for a new Delco ICM and coil pack. The ICM by itself was something like $420
  15. Well let me see what happens 89Red, but it might be awhile. My other car is now having cooling problems, as in a massive coolant leak that is leaking god knows where. And that car just got out of the shop too, with a tranny swap and new tires. The hits just keep on coming