2seater

Yard art? Bolt a plate and vertical post on them for supporting ropes to cordon off areas? Wait for the recycle price to increase? At the present price you might break even on a 60 mile round trip.

Regarding the MAF, IAC and TPS; is it just the difference in form or shape that makes them different or do they operate differently? I have adapted the '91 throttle body and MAF combination to a couple of different engine configurations in my '90 and the stock ECM has had no issue with operating either style throttle body combination of TPS, MAF or IAC? Just a clarification question.

Mine is in storage fifty miles away but I believe 5/16” is correct.

I don’t remember the tubing size exactly but the fluid flows into the radiator cooler on the bottom and out the upper fitting.

I would certainly like the 1990 FSM. Mine is in tatters.

Brake lines are not double flare, they are bubble flares, far easier to make. The fitting dimensions of m10x 1.0 is correct as is the 3/16” brake tubing, front and rear. The fuel pressure line is 3/8”, return is 5/16” and the vapor line is 1/4”. All are steel tubing on an ‘89 with a short rubber transition hose at the rear by the tank.

Agree. I made a similar observation last summer with three different Reattas sitting side by side, my grandsons '89 with approx. 175k miles, my sons '89 with over 315k and my '90 at 142k. Mine hasn't seen a winter since 1994, but the other two did year around duty. My sons car was clearly and noticeably lower overall, without measuring, and sat very flat. My grandsons is essentially the same as mine overall, but with a bit less tail high rake. Mine was definitely higher overall with a somewhat pronounced tail high rake to it. Measuring the tire to wheel arch clearance showed the high mileage car to be 3/4" lower in front and 1.5" lower at the rear than my car. As an aside, I noted years ago in the FSM, that the sibling Riviera has lower overall ride height dimensions than the Reatta, which made me wonder why or how that was done? The Rivieras do have automatic load leveling, so perhaps softer suspension pieces?

Block Learn is long term fueling, 150 indicating it is adding fuel because it sees a lean condition. If the engine is not fully warmed up and in closed loop, ignore that number for now. I agree the TPS should be addressed first. Either it is bad, out of adjustment or something is binding and not allowing the throttle to fully close. Has the throttle stop screw been tampered with?

This subject seems to be coming up fairly regularly now but the solutions seem to be all over the place. Can you reduce the idle by overriding the IAC? My '89 that became the parts car would do that after long storage too. I could force it lower, and it would stay there, but would possibly do it again after a restart. I never pursued it very hard after that because it wasn't being driven. Check the TPS in diagnostics to see what it is now.

My '90 coupe actually has a separate ground wire, which was present when I bought the car in the early '90's as well as a 1004 twin contact bulb for the trunk light?

Thanks, maybe it is the same bolt as the front subframe? I have those as well.

The only correction I think should be made is the brake system uses metric bubble flares, which are much easier to make, even in place under the car. The majority are a 10mm x 1.0 thread. Standard 3/16” bulk tubing.

Where is the car from and where is the brake system leak? The advice above is excellent regarding what to look for.

Thanks, I ordered four for the shelf. If memory serves, they are the same mounts for the rear suspension crossmember.

It loses the ability to fine tune itself. There are default settings, a kind of limp home mode, baked into the ECM, which take over for some sensors when the signal is lost. What it can’t discriminate is a bad signal from a sensor, so as part of diagnosing some things, disconnecting it will default to something safe. If the condition changes or improves, it helps locate the culprit

Non loaded voltage does not tell the whole story. It only gives an indication of the surface charge, not how much of the reservoir of battery power exists. The battery needs to be loaded and observe how well it responds to the load.

The end three are the only ones that use the “high” filament for brake and turn. The other half dozen never see the higher heat.

Is there something that makes the display for codes unreadable and has it been this way even when it ran properly? It certainly makes it more difficult to diagnose if basic readings like tps, maf, iac and others aren't accessible. By the way, what number is good fuel pressure?

No flow advantage for the GN head even if they fit. I believe the heads from the predecessor to the LN3, (LC3 or LG3?), one of the first fwd 3.8’s were used on the ‘89 Turbo Trans Am because they are slightly more compact on the exhaust side. The 3800 series of engines are even different in the amount of fore and aft offset between cylinder banks to get the cylinders centered on the crank throws making them somewhat longer overall

I have never had much luck with the search functions on the forum, and I put a fair bit of that problem on the user (me), not getting a good handle on how it operates. I find others that have the same complaint so I don’t feel alone in this. I have joined the Facebook groups, both of them, but I just don’t like the format. It is interspersed with ads and unrelated posts, aside from the lack of continuity. Just not my cup of tea for a technical type forum. I understand why it is there, and I do see crossover and recommendations to visit the other Reatta forums, but the idea it is for one stop shopping, so to speak, makes little sense to me. If you can navigate to, from and within Facebook, the user isn’t a Luddite. Just my opinion.

My experience with Rock Auto, loosely related to this thread I know, has generally been positive. I have had a couple parts that were warranty items and yes sometimes I paid the return postage and then was reimbursed or I received a free shipping label. Overall the experience has been positive for many years. They do have an email type help section. Perhaps it is different if you don't set up an account?

Fair enough. As I mentioned in my comments, I am far from a collector, so battle scars aren't a big issue with me. I do agree that new paint in one area can make the surroundings dim by comparison, I have seen exactly that myself. I don't consider convertibles for purchase in any case, for any price, so perhaps that alters my perception as well?

I am not sure what is visible that needs a complete repaint? I see a replacement hood, but not much else. The hood does beg the question as to why, but not much else jumps out to me. Perhaps the steering wheel cover and the sketchy appearance of the top of the dash are questionable. Maybe it is just me, but I greatly desire original paint over even the best repaint. I want to know what how it has aged and cared for rather than what's underneath being a mystery. Of course, I value these cars as drivers, not as investments. JMHO

That rust is the rear quarter.

Sure is an unfortunate way to resolve🤔