ptt

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About ptt

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/04/1950

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Independence, Missouri
  • Interests:
    Things that go zoom-zoom.

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  1. I haven't been able to get time to get the front end up in the air. I did get the drivers side front wheel off when it first started the problem. I grabbed the outer tierod end and it didn't move. That's when I saw that the stabilizer bar end link looked twisted. Possible stabilizer bar loose? The cross member didn't look out of place. I will get the front end up on a couple of carjacks tomorrow and do a better inspection.
  2. While driving the '90 Convertible it started pulling to the left upon braking and when accelerating it pulls to the right like its torque steering excessively. The drivers side tire has begun rubbing the wheelwell liner when braking as if the body is dipping low down enough to make contact at the tires 3oclock position. I have yet to get the frontend up off the ground to wiggle both tires but did get the drivers side wheel off and noticed that the stabilizer bar link looked twisted from top to bottom where it attaches to the strut. I know I must get it up off the ground to see whats going on but does it sound like inner tietod(s) or a loose steering rack problem to anyone??? Ive looked down behind the engine at the 4 rack mounting bolts and they appear OK. Thanks.
  3. So then our Reattas all have 4wheel ABS and I need to order a rear wheel bearing/hub with ABS?
  4. Im getting the obvious wheel bearing noise from the drivers side rear wheel bearing on the '90 coupe so I will be getting a replacement. So do our cars have 4wheel ABS. Ive seen the rear bearings are offered w/ABS and w/o ABS. The question is which type rear wheel bearing do I need....with or without ABS? Thanks.
  5. I finally replaced the Accumulator ball with the Land Rover unit. I still have an intermittent hard pedal. It seems like it starts out with a hard pedal then after a few minutes it goes to a normal pedal. Then stays normal. Its just hard after a cold start then goes away. The Land Rover accumulator is noticeably larger that the OEM ball so I did the extra washer under the cross bracket to clear the larger ball.
  6. ptt

    Power Window problem

    Finally got time to fix my window problem. Ive had a window motor off of Amazon sitting for weeks. It was clearly stamped MADE IN CHINA so I bench tested it. Worked fine. I used 1/4in pop rivet gun I have had for years to reinstall the motor to the sissor mechanism and the to the inner door skin. The lower track for the window sissor mechanism uses its same bolts to re-attach it to the inner door skin. Motor/sissor mechanism/lower track was removed all at the same time as a unit. The hardest part of reassembly for me was getting that sissor mechanism fed back into the UPPER track. After multiple attempts I found that feeding the front roller wheel into the track towards the rear from the front and then rolling it rearward to feed the second roller wheel into the track from the rear going forward worked best for me. There are two upper rollers and one lower roller wheel facing opposite directions to this sissor mechanism. Its quite the excercise in working by feel. I drilled a hole and stuck a 1/4in bolt and nut to lock the coiled steel spring in place after removal of the motor and sissor mechanism as a unit from the door. To me it appears that the coiled spring assists the window going up but the weight of the window is what assists the motor when lowering it. I did have to drill out the rivets in the old motor and the new CHINESE made motor to remount it to the sissor mechanism but to my relief ALL the holes actually lined up when I pop-riveted it back on the sissor mechanism. I realize not everyone has a 1/4in rivet tool but I wouldn't try using smaller rivets for this project. I did use a small angle grinder to remove the 5 rivets holding the motor/sissors mechanism to the inner door skin. Then I used a drill to remove the rivets on the old motor from the sissor mechanism and enlarge the holes in the new motor AND sissor mechanism when remounting the motor. After all was done I realized why people use mechanics gloves! Ive got more cuts and scrapes on my hands and fingers to ever do this type project without them. And Ive got two other windows starting to do the noisy racheting so my next trip to the parts store is for some of those afore mentioned gloves! Thank you to all.
  7. ptt

    Power Window problem

    If Ive read correctly the loud ratcheting is because the internal gears in the motor are plastic or nylon. Why would this be? Engineered to fail? I bought a replacement motor thru AMAZON that claimed to be the correct one for my '90 Reatta. The mounting holes appear to lineup right but initially I thought the end where the electrical connector plugs in was not long enough to use the existing hole to rivet it. Then I noticed that there is a separate bracket on the end of the old motor that needs to be placed on the new motor! The new unit is clearly stamped MADE IN CHINA but I tested it before hand and it worked fine. I would love to record the process but Im no Quinten Tarentino by any means. Ive had off and on rain showers here and with no covered facilities its been sporatic just trying to get work done. I will make sure and post my results and or problems. Thanks all.
  8. ptt

    Power Window problem

    Will do! Thanks Ronnie!!!
  9. My '90 Convertible driverside power window rolls down about half way then starts making a loud ratcheting noise and stops going down. It will go back up but when it gets all the way up to the top it does the same loud ratcheting noise. I removed the door panel and felt around on the curved sprocket to see if the teeth had stripped but they felt OK. As the motor moves the window just halfway up and down could it be something inside it has stripped gearwise? Also, do holes have to be drilled through the inner door skin to access the rivets that mount the motor itself? Is there a video tutorial on the Reatta power window repair somewhere online??? Thanks.
  10. Its been a few fill-ups since I added the HEET to the tank and the sputtering cold startup went away. Alas...its back with a vengeance. The idle will smooth out, as before, after a minute or so. Could a MAF going bad possibly be the culprit??? I seem to recall my '90 Coupe doing this and replacing the MAF cured the cold start sputtering. In fact it has consistantly started very quickly every since the new MAF was installed. Another thought came to mind is that the station I frequent (Quik Trip) is moving and I will be using a different place to get fuel so maybe Ive been getting fuel at the bottom of the underground tank recently....😱
  11. I added a bottle of HEET to the gas tank and the problem ceased to exist. Maybe some bad gas (H2O???) last fill-up??? Hasn't acted up since the HEET was added.....
  12. I finally got around to changing the old accumulator with the new WABCO Land Rover unit. I had checked the pressure switch and the electrical connector was dry. The old accumulator had an allen wrench hole in the top of the ball for removal. The WABCO unit has a hex type fitting at the bottom for tightening but I used a strap wrench to get it tightened with the new provided O-ring. I did notice the old ball did not have an O-ring. The old ball was pretty much full of brake fluid. Then I started the engine and I noticed that the pump was not running. The brake fluid level remained at the FULL level accordingly. After about 4-5 minutes with the engine idling I heard the pump start working and the fluid level went down about a half inch in the reservoir as it should. The red BRAKE light went off and the hard pedal was finally gone. I put a couple of washers under the cross bracket to give the larger ball some clearance. Thanks all for the advise and help!!!