ptt

Is there a source for a replacement clip??? ive had to pull the glovebox out and rig the blend door open to get heat. The clip is broken.

Sometimes its got a normal pedal. Can a failing accumulator cause this??

I used a few 1in peices of velcro strips. the kind with adhesive backing. only problem was when car sat out in the sun it made the adhesive gooey. But I didnt want to use anything more permanant....

I definately wont be buying WALMART anymore.

After replacing my MAF sensor I was wondering what running the engine with a defective MAF unplugged would do to the engine??? Mine seemed to start and idle fine unplugged....

Almost everything I own is OBD1.....I think I loaned it out and it didnt find its way home....

I finally saw some sunlight this morning so I put the recharged battery back in the Coupe and started replacing the oldest sensors beginning with the MAF. That was the culprit. First I unplugged it and it started right up. Plugged it back in and the engine died. Tried to clean the old MAF with MAF SENSOR SPRAY CLEANER and let it dry for a half hour inside while I went in to warm up. No dice. Engine would catch but I had to pump the pedal to keep it running. It wouldnt idle at all. Put new MAF in and it started right up immeadiately. I checked my records and the Ignition Module and Magnovox Coils are less than 500 miles old. I let the engine run up to operating temp and took a short drive. All appears to be back to normal. Thanks to all for your replies!

I was wondering what is the minimum voltage needed to start the engine? My low battery was not starting the car at 11.62v...

I guess the old adage about getting what you pay for stands true! The battery is a WALLY-WORLD EVERSTART...but it has out lasted the warranty by 6 months. I brought it in and charged it overnight and it came back to life. Probably go bad this Summer in the heat.

Its been a deep freeze here in Missouri for the past week! I havent started the Coupe for that long as Ive been hibernating. Warmed up to 15F yesterday so I tried to start it...no dice. Put the boosterbox on it and promptly ran that down. The display was lit up so I put the DVM to the battery and it only read 11.36V. It would act like it wanted to catch but wouldnt. The last time it did this {3 years ago) it was the coils. This car has always started immeadiately by just touching the ignition. It still has the MAGNOVOX coil and I do have a new unit in stock. Its not going to get above 15F for the next week tho....

My 1990 coupe only has two relays on the firewall.

I dont think its ever had this issue while idling. Im going to hook the fp gauge back up this afternoon and let it idle and see if I can reproduce the sputtering and dieing.

Since I've have had this 1990 coupe I've never replaced the O-sensor. Going on 13 years now owning it. Its surely about time to either replace or clean just about every one of the sensors. I'd be doing whats considered "SHOTGUNNING" it with new parts but its probably time to as I used it as a Winter time daily driver. I will be checking its performance as each sensor is replaced to see which one improves performance. I have misplaced or lost my only OBD-1 scan tool and cant seem to find a replacement online thats priced close to reasonable. I do have an AUTOSCAN OBD-2 SCANNER but it only works on 1995-2002 OBD-2 systems.

Ive forgotten where the fuel pump relay is offhand? Underhood or side of the console?

It seems to sputter with tach going to zero. I havent noticed if the speedometer does anything but go on reading zero because Im always at a full stop. It never stops running while under way...yet. Sometimes it will restart right off...other times it takes a few tries before it will catch and start. There must be some codes stored as it doesnt show "No ECM Codes". Would a fuel filter issue be a possibility? It isnt an issue thats consistant but seems to happen after warmed to operating temperature.