DSpringer

Keith is an artist. What else can I say?

The lock assembly is held in place by a screw that has no slot. I had to remove mine using a punch to rotate out the screw. Here is what the locking pin and locking assembly looks like after the shift column assembly is pulled.

Right! Really wish I'd done the photo documentation. But I managed to get to the end anyway - almost. Might be done this weekend after 50 years of anticipation and 10 years of work. The question is, what now?

Perfect. Thanks Lee and Paul. I have the ground cable on order from Narragansett and the negative cables were acquired about 20 years ago, also from them. Is that battery an Optima in Zephyr clothing? -Dave

I'll be dropping in a V-12 to replace the V-8 in my '41 Zephyr this weekend. I understand the ground cable bolts to the chassis in the middle and then to the block, but where does it attach to the chassis and the block? If you have a photo it would be appreciated. I've browsed my photo collection but none show it.

I was able to pull the transmission up through the floor with the engine removed, but haven't tried it with the torque tube out and the engine in place. If you don't have an overdrive, the tranny is probably light enough for you to lift out without a hoist. Removing the mounts is a snap - just two bolts. I suspect you'll have to jack up the rear of the engine to provide clearance so you can wiggle the spline free from the clutch. Looking at mine (transmission in, engine out), there is just enough clearance between the tranny and the floor boards to back it out. With the tranny out you should have enough access to pull the pressure plate and clutch. -Dave

Paul, may I ask where you got the replacement mounts? Not sure, but I may be needing some soon for the V12 I'm picking up Friday. Yay!

I'm looking for a pair of engine mounts in any condition. Seems like all of the suppliers like Boos-Herrell, Naragansett, and Whelihan need cores. Thanks. daspring42@gmail.com

A trick I used to use when I was in a hurry was to shove it into second before going into first. That uses the synchro rings to slow down the spin of the output shaft instead of the gears.

LeBaron Bonney is also a good source, though I had better luck with SMS on matching fabrics for my '41. I found there is no such thing as a perfect match.

I used a pneumatic impact wrench with a screwdriver attachment and lots of Thrust penetrating oil, but I didn't have to deal with aluminum on the '41.

Thanks everyone. Confirmed my suspicions. I'll post photos of the new arrival getting dropped in, hopefully in a month or so.

I am about to the be proud owner of a good running V12 to replace the 49 Merc that came out. Can anyone who has a good eye tell me whether it is probable that I will have to cut off the V8 mounts that were added 63 years ago?

I ordered the Wagner 6006 lamps from the local Napa store and it only took less than a week to get them. About $23 apiece. The halogen lamps are a lot brighter than the the old Westinghouse lamps I had. The right one fit fine without touching the alignment nubs. I think I screwed up by grinding down the top nubs on the left one. If you have an earlier car (than '41) that needs lamps without the nubs, they're really not hard to grind down on a carborundum wheel. It takes patience though so you don't overheat and crack the glass (like I did with one). -Dave

I bought a pair of Wagner halogen 6006's from Napa. Tried installing one on my '41 sedan and the ring wouldn't seat because of the nubs so I ground them down. Now the ring just slips all over. Anyone know the secret to mounting these?

For some reason my post yesterday failed to publish. Here it goes again. Here's a couple of before-after shots, plus a picture of one of Keith Lee's masterpiece steering wheels newly mounted. Almost ready for an engine. Just have to figure out which one, the 49 Merc that came out or a V-12 that will take a lot of work and/or money.

Here's some before & after shots of Grandma's '41, plus a shot of one of Keith Lee's masterpiece steering wheels. Note the difference in wood grain color between the radio blank (original) and the dash. Oh well, I'm not going through that again. All that's left is to drop in the engine, but what engine?

You could also try LeBaron Bonney and SMS Auto Fabrics.

Just finished redoing the leather on the door pulls on my '41 sedan. If anyone else is dealing with this the attached procedure might help. (Let me know if the pdf attachment doesn't work.) Restoring Door Pulls.pdf

Here's what mine looks like. No through bolts, just two hefty bolts threaded into threaded receivers in the cross member. Not sure what the odd-shaped washers are for, or if I got them in right. Been too many years since I pulled it.

That's what I figured. Don knows his Lincolns - he supplied the block I have, but may have got the wrong parts way back when. He listed them as "2-front motor mounts".

I picked up some "front engine mounts" from Don's Antique Auto about 20 years ago but there's no steel - just rubber. All that's left of a bunch of great parts that got tossed by someone along the way. Do these look familiar? Can the rubber be inserted into the steel part of the mounts, or does it have to be vulcanized in?

My '41 Sedan has the orange peel variety. Based on what I learned from Keith Lee about differences in inside plastic door buttons I apparently have an early model '41.

The same exact language is in the '41 owner's manual.

I just received a steering wheel and knobs from Keith today. Very high quality stuff. I agree with Ron, terrific guy to deal with!