DSpringer

At Peecher's advice I installed a BK-49 manifold spacer - vacuum takeoff so I could use the manifold vacuum port for a PCV valve. $45 from columbiatwospeedparts.com.

Nice, Keith. Wish I had that Columbia box checked on mine. Sure don't need the heater. I didn't need either to win a Gregory at the last GOF West. I think the judges were treating me to some beginners luck, especially since I had the rear bumper mounted upside down!

Go easy on Jeff. He communicates differently than some of us but is a great asset to the Forum.

I've had success getting two 41 Zephyr clocks going using a needle to drop 3-in-1 oil on the bearings of the main spring and the two gears that are activated by that. Putting pressure on the winder for a few minutes will keep it running and helps the oil penetrate the bearings. One keeps good time and the other runs too fast, even when the adjustment is set to the slowest setting. Using wet-or-dry sandpaper to clean the contacts also helps. The battery should be kept well charged, because if there isn't enough current to pull the contacts open it will blow the fuse.

I remember the thrill of getting mine back from the paint shop and all the thumbs up as I trailered it home. Now the fun starts.

Thanks, all, I'll definitely give Marvel Mystery Oil a try. I ran the engine at a high idle for about 15 minutes today and it quieted down. Bruce, I thought all the Y-block Fords had solid, adjustable lifters. I'm running a '57 272 in my boat, and it has solid lifters.

After over 10 years of restoration, finally get to drive the 65 miles to GOF West to show it off. So I go out and fire it up to make sure it's still running smooth, and what do I hear but one stupid noisy lifter. I have the parts to replace valves, guides, and lifters, but I was going to wait until after the meet. Any tips on temporary oil treatments to silence this thing? I'm running Valvoline 20W-50 racing oil now and get about 25 psi at a cold idle but it goes down after warmup. The other project is putting in a Melling M15 pump that is on order. Anyone else on the forum going to LZOC West?

I keep seeing hydraulic lifters advertized on Ebay for HV-12's but they don't look like what I pulled out of my engine. Ebay on the left, mine on the right.

Thanks, flatcat. So the bushing must reduce the clearance? Still leaning towards seals, but with the seals installed there's no longer a place to grab the guide with a bar to pry it down to insert the retainer. Maybe I could install the valves separately instead of as a unit with the guide & spring, and use a spring compressor to insert the keepers.

Now that's got me baffled. So you bore out the guides and put in a bronze bushing? There couldn't be more than a 1/1000" gap between a new valve stem and the guide.

Jeff, I'm getting ready to install intake valves with seals - as you said - check the gas & fill the oil. Did you have any details on how the guides were machined and a source for the nylon seals? Earl Brown's catalog lists an intake valve kit with neoprene seals, which I guess is another way to go. I found D-1611 Teflon valve stem seals but I don't know if these can be used with the stock 49-53 valve guides without machining them.

Fiat adopts Paradise Green

My wheel was made to perfection. Worth the wait.

Kroil and Easy Out?

I bought one from Merv at the Santa Maria swap meet. Wife couldn't believe what I was willing to pay for a bent up, cracked, rusty piece of metal. I haven't shown her the bill from the body shop to put it into the shape you see here. As Jeff says, the car ran fine without it but I had a bad case of stone deflector envy.

Thanks, Phil. I haven't a clue what's fair, but I'll do a little research.

You might try Dee Peecher. He rebuilt my '41 cluster, including replacing the yellowed disk that prevented seeing the odometer.

Phil, does that mean you sold it? If so, congrats. If not, do you still have the 41 Borg Warner and short driveshaft?

I used Five Points and can also vouch for their quality service and great communications. Some of my shocks were leaking, banging, and in terrible shape. They came back good as new and it ran me about $745. They gave me a good education in the process - I never knew you could adjust the tension.

Don't know the number on the light offhand, but I always wondered why they only put the button switches on the back doors. You can get them in halogen now. For example, Bill Hirsch at hirschbill@aol.com, 800-828-2061.

Someone else will have to weigh in on how to pull '37 switches, but I found every electrical switch could be (and had to be) opened and contacts cleaned on my car, except the ignition switch.

So sorry to hear that, Phil. We all wish her a speedy recovery. Dave

John, there's a '37 owners manual on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-LINCOLN-ZEPHYR-V-12-REFERENCE-MANUAL-ORIGINAL-/360927448652?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item5408f3ce4c&vxp=mtr The $50 price is about what you'd expect for one of these. And here's another: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-Lincoln-Zephyr-V12-Car-Owners-Instruction-Manual-/380632478384?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item589f76b2b0&vxp=mtr

Thanks for your perspectives. I'll have to think on it. Phil, are you going to Santa Maria this weekend?

So if I was going to add an overdrive to my '41 Zephyr, which would be less trouble - Columbia or Borg-Warner?