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Everything posted by DSpringer

  1. You can try SMS. I found a reasonable but not perfect match for my '41 Zephyr. https://smsautofabrics.com/
  2. Might provide some extra protection in a rear-ender. I'm not sure what purpose that splash guard between the body and rear bumper serves, but I had to have one.
  3. I'm currently running Redline 20W-50 synthetic. The higher viscosity helps keep oil pressure up and it has "higher levels of ZDDP". Running SAE 140 in the transmission to quiet the gremlins that started singing on our trip to Montana. I'm fairly convinced that the PCV valve and active crankcase ventilation is keeping the sludge and smoke away.
  4. Adrian, I have the article and scanned it as a pdf, which I cannot attach. Email me at daspring42@gmail.com and I will send it to you. It was in Vol. 46 Nov/Dec.The title is "The ABC's of Adjusting 1936 to 1938 Lincoln Zephyr Brakes." Dave
  5. I used Narragansett for my '41 and was very happy with the quality of the harnesses, accuracy of color coding, and the helpful wiring diagrams. I got a little stumped with connections to the circuit breaker panel, and can help with that if you need it. Seems like it will never come together, but it magically does and everything works. I wonder if Narragansett and Rhode Island use the same maker.
  6. Got mine at Carbs Unlimited - http://www.carburetion.com/. I also bought main jet needle valves from Vintage Speed to try to lean out the mixture, but all they did is make the engine run rough. I think I'm running .061 jets and they give me plenty of go and 12-13 mpg. From my experience the trickiest thing is getting the right power valve. With the wrong one you will experience surging as you accelerate, or you will get lousy mileage and rough running. It took me a while, but I figured out how they work: At idle the vacuum is high and pulls the valve closed against spring pressure. When the vacuum decreases during acceleration the spring pushes the valve open. Of the several I tested, I found the one with the weakest spring gave me the best result. I also recommend you fill the float chamber with fuel with the top off the carb and watch for drips off the bottom of the power valve. Sometimes it's hard to get a good seal. I recommend a thorough cleaning - dip in carb cleaner for several hours and blow everything out before you reassemble.
  7. I had that same problem with the plugs falling out after my engine had been rebuilt. I pulled the pan to install a Melling pump only to find that I already had one, and two plugs laying in the pan. My first effort to reinstall them using LockTite and some glancing blows failed. On the second try I made a tool to lever them in place, but I think I may still have lost one since the oil pressure is not where it ought to be. Somewhere I read that using a double-ended nut and a couple bolts you can apply a lot of pressure to the caps, which is what i will do if I ever get the gumption to pull that pan again.
  8. Welcome to the Forum, Springer! Here is a 2006 post by Dee Peecher on this topic: "Clearance ramps for adjustable tappets can be easily added when the cam is reground. If you use the adjustable tappets the clearances would be the same as the '36 and '37 12's. Many guys have gone this route and there are some advantages. You can eliminate the secondary oil line that feeds the lifters but you must provide a pressure relief passage at the front relief valve in order to assure lubrication to the timing gear. With the proper cam grind the engine will run as quiet as a flathead Ford. The hydraulic tappets of course will run a tad quieter as long as as long as they are in good shape and oil pressure is decent."
  9. Gorgeous engine! I have oil pressure envy. Even with a Melling I never see it above 30 at high RPM. Must have lost another crankshaft plug.
  10. Thanks, Tom. I might try the vacuum brake adjustment just for fun. As I said in my earlier post, I bought the distributor from Rolf Burdette, and he said it was gone over by Jake Flemming. I have a spare that I had Jake do also, but they're so much fun to change out that I think I'll save it for a time when I need some cheering up. I'm pretty happy with how she's running now, but it would be good to know what vacuum I'm pulling. None of my power valves are numbered. Any suggestions on vacuum gauges?
  11. Talking to myself, here. Installing the power valve from my collection that has the weakest spring appears to have fixed the surging. Theory: The PCV valve I installed is increasing manifold pressure, causing the power valve to remain partially open. It is the low pressure in the intake manifold that pulls the valve closed against the spring tension.
  12. Mike, look under V12 Lincolns for a post on Feb. 6 by Shirley Hopkins.
  13. If you want good crankcase ventilation you should search for posts by Dee Peecher on the subject.On his advice I added a Columbia vacuum takeoff block under the carb that connects to a PCV valve threaded into the vacuum port of the intake manifold on my '41. Not correct, but like Melling oil pumps and solid valve guides with seals, are an improvement on the original design. I haven't had any points taken off in the two shows where I've been judged.
  14. More swapping parts and adjustments and I got some improvement. I don't have a tach so I don't know what RPM I have at idle, or what the vacuum is. I just lower the idle stop screw and adjust the needle valves until I get that nice smooth idle. The needle valves end up being about 3/4 open. Another problem, I get a lot of surging when accelerating in first and second gear. I've tried swapping out three different power valves with different spring tensions with little or no improvement. Tom, the vacuum brake adjustment is the screw with lock nut on the side of the distributor? What does backing it off do to the spark advance? Wondering if that might be responsible for the surging. According to the late Rolf Burdette the distributor was refurbished by Jake Fleming about 12 years past. With my restoration projects done I'm just trying to get her to purr and be more of a pleasure to drive.
  15. Never mind, found it. Great article!
  16. I have been unable to solve a crazy problem: When I come to a stop the engine dies - every time - unless I approach the stop very slowly or pull the accelerator knob out to raise the RPM above idle. It doesn't happen going in reverse. Float adjusted per spec. I have swapped parts using my three carbs and done several rebuilds to try to solve the problem but to no avail. Anyone else experience this?
  17. Tom, I have a spare engine to build up and could use this, but the link is not hyperlinked and I can't find any threads under Shirley Hopkins.
  18. Anyone know where to get these, or have a pattern for them? One thing I missed when putting the engine back together.
  19. I used a 3/8" pipe tap to create threads in the breather hole in my intake manifold (being careful to vacuum out the shavings). The PCV threads right in. I connected it to a BK-49 manifold spacer/vacuum takeoff from columbiatwospeedparts.com. If I had blow-by I wouldn't know it. Also installed the solid valve guides with seals on intakes.
  20. Thanks, Tom. I've been searching for the right power valve. They either surge too early or too late. Originally I thought a stronger spring meant they would open slower, but now I believe they are "normally open" and are held closed by vacuum working against the spring tension. So the weaker the spring the leaner the mixture. Do I have that righht?
  21. Rolf left us several years ago. He provided me with my carb, distributor, and several other parts before he departed. Great loss.
  22. My original pump could not supply enough fuel. I ran it for awhile with a spacer to get more lift, but that was an imperfect solution. I bought a new one from Sacramento Vintage Ford, and couldn't keep it from overpowering the float valve and flooding the engine with gas. I replaced the spring with the spring from the old one, and now it is "just right." I have over 2,000 miles on it and no problems.
  23. Glad to hear it, Keith. The seals I got from Narragansett in the 80's don't allow the windows to close completely. Keep us posted.
  24. I should have known by looking at the plates that wasn't Jay's. When we visited him he had a black '41 Cabriolet in his garage, and I must have confused it with the one he brought. So the Rockingham Tan one must be his.