40ZephSedan

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About 40ZephSedan

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  • Birthday 11/30/1953

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  1. Ray at Classic Car Transport in Southington CT advertises in TWOTZ, has also parted out many many LZ's and excellent LZ parts source, at Hershey ea year, a class act, very responsive. Very pleased with a dozens of the parts from him, he probably has rims you need, he has almost everything .
  2. Another item you may have already considered,, If you have a two-speed Columbia, highway RPM's might not be a problem. but if no overdrive- you may want to think twice about a smaller circumference tire revving more on the highway. Phil Knapp summarized rim sizes well in his 8/30/2010 thread on 1940's vs 1941's, in addition to what Keith mentions. 1939/1940 = 16x4, 1941=16x5, and 1942 on were 15x5. Fender skirts have pretty tight clearance as well- anyone with experience changing from 16x4 to the wider 16x5 or 15x5 rims know if there are problems with the wider tires rubbing on the 1939 and 1940 fender skirts?
  3. You got that rear drive-train back together fast, evidently its running well! Like the pics!
  4. Spot on Tom, you're good! Pic.
  5. I bought from Alan Whelihan at a parts swap - very nice; never checked Chris, he may have too. I think polished SS, but looks like chrome. Two different types depending on year. Need P/N or know if yours have the shorter or longer square shaft. Paul
  6. You are always expanding our horizons Jeff!! Now I know who Eddie Peabody is, the banjo king. But I bet Eddie didn't ever own both a H-V12 and a VW MicroBus, even more rare with your top narrow windows.
  7. The manual call for a Zephyr "H" part number, so it must be different than the Ford part number somehow. For a 1939 Zephyr (96H) it lists Fuel Tank # H-9002-A.
  8. By "I'd", are you looking for past owners and history? Would have to see if Dave Cole's past tracking charts might be available. 16H is a 1941. 57 designates the Lincoln-Continantal Coupe. And it is the 785th Continental Coupe made in 1941 out of ????? Not many made, probably toward the end of 1941. The actual VIN number used is the engine number stamped on the top of the frame between the driver front wheel and the exhaust manifold. Hope that is a quick help if you are looking to make a quick buying decision.
  9. If Cabr is similar to Sedans, is a small plate staked to inside of upholstery backing board holding the spring clip to the backing board. Can slip 2 pieces of chipboard (cereal box) in the crack between the door upholstery and the door metal to protect both. Put small putty knife between the 2 pieces of chip board, pry out till a gap wide enough to see where the metal plates and spring clips are. Then prying against metal on both sides (between plate & door, but with the chipboard protecting your paint and upholstery) you should be able to pop the spring clip out of the hole in the door sheet metal. They make small plastic pry bar upholstery tools (like a screw driver with a slight angled forked end) to do this as well if you have one, but if not you can carefully use a putty knife and screw driver to pry out the spring clips. Paul
  10. You won't miss a beat not going to the gym during CV-19, good exercise, those are not light parts you are throwing around! Now we all know what the bearing looks like, and have great instructions in our files if ever needed! You were smart for not ignoring the equivalent of "heart attack warning signs" when you felt the shudder in rear end as you let off on the gas. Taking it apart to find the problem early may have prevented a Columbia explosion. Nice pics. Good Stuff.
  11. It really depends where the sealant is being used, there is a wide variety. I would not use the lower cost gasket maker acetoxy silicones on anything car or engine related since the acetic acid in it is the cure catalyst and causes corrosion on metal surfaces so they will leak in about 3 years. You can tell by it's strong smell right away. It is better for ceramic or non metal. The better silicone sealants have a sweeter smell but most will not hold up to high pressure and temp on a head gasket. Some car manufactures use silicone only on valve covers and oil pans. But you want to get the right cure time if you need time to fit, and you want the right viscosity and tensile strength so it doesn't blow out. Some like Loctite 598 black are thinner viscosity, but better quality silicone. And 5900 is a heavy body black silicone for oil pans- put on, finger tighten bolts, and slightly re-tighten bolts next day after cure. If a tranny gasket it needs to be chemically compatible. Have to be sure on rear end pumpkin gaskets to not use just any silicone because most will cause the oil/slip agent to foam and wear the gears fast. I think heavy body grey 5699 is recommended for rear end covers. I would research on line for your specific application, or call 1(800)-loctite and punch numbers needed to get to Tech Service, describe your application and they will give you a few P/N recommendations for free.
  12. Appreciate the feedback. Does not seem like just the rubber is available separately. If they were vulcanized originally, just the rubber would not help much. Wasn't sure if the buttons were made oversized when new and were just forced into the holes. Will have to ponder what's next, if it is worth trying to fabricate from bulk rubber and try to adhere. Thx!
  13. A barn-find pic on-line shows the same thing.
  14. Manual calls for different door check P/N's for the different models. Series 56 with a longer door may have shorter check arm so it stops earlier (smaller angle), or would not be able to reach out from the seat and grab the arm rest. Series 73 4-door with shorter doors may swing out farther with larger angle because can still reach out from seat to shorter door and grab arm rest. Don't have both parts to compare however.
  15. Thanks Dave for including us in the findings step by step, with helpful photos! A good lesson learned by many now to pack away back in our memory & to keep an eye out for should we ever need it.