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40ZephSedan

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About 40ZephSedan

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  • Birthday 11/30/1953

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  1. The 2 outer shoe springs have more than enough strength to overcome the small spring inside the cylinder and push the pistons back toward the center as far as they need to go. As Larry said, glued linings may bulge out a little if too much adhesive is used, or if the lining bows out a little before the adhesive sets. Can you rough up the linings and rub on some yellow chalk (or an indicator that won't affect the friction) and then spin with drum on to see where your high spot is rubbing on the lining? I have also had problem before with adjusters that were initially very rusted, have to use
  2. It looks like this is the drivers-side front, so the shorter length lining in the front appears correct. How bad is it dragging, will it turn by hand at all? You may have already tried; but sometimes after all drums in place, will need to apply good brake pedal pressure to center the whole brake shoe assembly inside the drum, allowing enough clearance to allow the drum to turn until it polishes up more to spin more free. Paul
  3. Gerry, I have never seen the metal disk in any old or new brake cylinders I have worked on. I have seen the larger diameter springs on some newer model cars, but not sure why the design is different or what the advantage is verses the old style springs. A local brake or repair shop, or the supplier that sold you the brake kit might have insight. Regarding the rest the assembly, being overly cautious-since the photo doesn't show all the new parts in the rebuild kit, your new kit does include new 2202 rubber seals in front of new 2198 metal pistons, correct? Paul
  4. Gerry, since they are compressible, they are not really re-usable, so you may want to pick up a couple extra ones in case a drum has to come off again. They start off 1/8" thick, but after torqued & compressed they almost look like a metal washer; your old one may still be in your hub that will need to be cleaned out. Cheers to you, making a lot of good progress on many items! Paul
  5. Tough to get off if torqued properly, so they don't come lose and spin off the key/ruin bearing/ruin axle. I got a drum off once with a 3-jaw puller without getting killed by any flying parts & without damaging the end of the axle nor groove- would not recommend. Needs a big hammer hit. If keeping the car would recommend a correct hub puller. I am very happy now with my Vintage Precision Tools puller also, (good customer service), because it spreads the thrust across all the threads, just like the orig axle design. Was $165 (Tool/packaging/tax/shipping).
  6. I don't have a manual for 48, and can not tell for sure from the photo but I think the spring insulators on 40's were also used in 48. May want to stay with them for the quieter ride with the spring and frame separated by rubber rather than welded/bolted/riveted metal to metal. Don't shave new insulators if go in tight, want them tight; press up in place slowly with hydraulic bottle jack. Here is the 1940 setup. Good Luck- Paul
  7. John, could the bulb mount in the hole you show in the blue dash paint? It appears the bottom chrome bar on the radio grill extends out far enough from the blue dash metal to fit the bulb underneath the chrome, and then the light might shine out the gaps in that area or possibly out a light hole out the left side of the bottom bar of the radio grill corner piece? Paul
  8. Scott has hydraulic in 41 too. But I don't have a pic of a 41 brake. This is a pic of an adjuster (on mech & hyd both). He keeps saying "I don't know what you mean; How do you back off the adjuster?; Its not obvious; What are adjusters? So just trying to help him out providing a visual of what the adjuster looks like that he needs to find and back off.
  9. Since this is a beauty, and not just a driver, you might consider buying the Authenticity Manual off one of the website vendors. That manual is nowhere complete, but it is still packed with a lot of useful info which we can not list all for you here in short replies. Love the color, my Dad originally had a maroon 1941 coupe with fold down seats in 1950's, and unfortunately sold it after I was born, because it was getting tougher with little room to throw the 3 kids behind the front seat!! Figure they had about 80-100 Zephyrs coming down the line every day, and pulled about 4/day off to the
  10. Can anyone help with photos/explanations how the rear gas line routes over to the tank connection, as originally installed from the factory? 50 years ago my dad and I replaced the rusty gas line with copper, and just clamped on a rubber flex hose near the tank. Now that I have cleaned things up and installed new mounts and frame insulators, would like to install the gas line over to the tank with proper rigid tubing/hose, hardware, routing location, etc., to match the original install as close as possible. Is it rigid tubing all the way to the tank connection, with no rubber involved? Wh
  11. Scott, Picture may help make adjuster more obvious. Parts Manual is no help for drawings, but the Chassis and Parts manual does have many helpful diagrams, can find on ebay. Or you can download the 2020 Parts price book on Boos-Herrel web site and Chris has many good diagrams there as well. Not sure if this pic is front brake or not, may be a rear. But for illustration, try to find the adjusting hole in the back of the brake backing plate behind the star wheel adjuster and using a brake adjusting tool- turn the adjuster so it becomes shorter, the the end of the brake shoes come
  12. Hi Phil, Many fabrics were never reproduced and no longer available, so often can only pick something close. With LeBaron out of business, two other I am aware of: 1) SMS Fabrics in Canby, Oregon; never used them, may in future, know one owner with 39 sedan satisfied with them. 2) After Jim Roll passing and a great reputation esp for Continentals, his son Jan was reupholstering V12 Lincolns last I heard- in New Philadelphia OH; can ask if he will sell just the material separate, without doing install? Good Luck, Paul
  13. The V12 Engine Rebuild Manual cautions to assure all stamped rod and cap numbers 1-12 are assembled facing the front of the engine. If not, it will cause a clatter or loud racket, depending upon how many are backward. You are describing this as a knock, so this may not be the problem, but a long-shot possible cause.
  14. Ray at Classic Car Transport in Southington CT advertises in TWOTZ, has also parted out many many LZ's and excellent LZ parts source, at Hershey ea year, a class act, very responsive. Very pleased with a dozens of the parts from him, he probably has rims you need, he has almost everything .
  15. Another item you may have already considered,, If you have a two-speed Columbia, highway RPM's might not be a problem. but if no overdrive- you may want to think twice about a smaller circumference tire revving more on the highway. Phil Knapp summarized rim sizes well in his 8/30/2010 thread on 1940's vs 1941's, in addition to what Keith mentions. 1939/1940 = 16x4, 1941=16x5, and 1942 on were 15x5. Fender skirts have pretty tight clearance as well- anyone with experience changing from 16x4 to the wider 16x5 or 15x5 rims know if there are problems with the wider tires rubbing on the 193
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