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  1. Narragansett made nice harnesses if you can still find them anywhere, but I think they went out of business in 2019. Rhode Island Wire also has very nice harnesses. Don't know of anyone else that will make them for V12's like the originals with the fabric, colors,..... Get on order with RI soon if you need it bad because they might have a 2-3 month delivery, unless lucky enough to have P/N that is already in stock. Paul
  2. Might be others, but only place I've heard that can rebuild them is Apple Hydraulics. Even if you come up with the equipment and fixtures to get shocks apart (almost impossible), then you need to have the parts available to rebuild them; don't know where to find rebuild parts.
  3. Alan Whelihan of Vintage Auto Warehouse in MD had 4 (sealed in bags with new steel bushings) on his table at Hershey this week, best to email him your needs and probably Susan will reply back with price and take order. Boos-Herrel I'm sure carries them as well, has nice website-download catalog to confirm P/N price.
  4. Some nice parts! Great Hershey open again in the fall Oct 5-9, after shutdown in 2020! Wonder what car the Lincoln Zephyr Owners Club (LZOC) will have displayed in their tent this year? I imagine they are in the same space, C3F 40-43. Make sure to stop, meet more car lovers, ask questions, get information. About 15 vendors listed under Lincoln Zephyr (387) in the last 2019 Hershey directory. Talked with 2 of the guys with some of the most Zephyr show parts, Ray Theriault and Boos-Herrel recently and both said they plan to be at Hershey this year, and probably many of the others too. Looking forward to it!!
  5. Can't help you with a 1947, unless the same P/N as a 1940 (my chassis manual does not cover post war). The input on a 1940 differential has 10 splines.
  6. Have your tried Antique Auto Battery Co. in Hudson Ohio? If still in business they made very nice repro cases with LZ teardrop embossed, long lasting gel batteries inside and the Lincoln positive ground in the the proper position for the correct ground strap to the battery box and cylinder.
  7. The 2 outer shoe springs have more than enough strength to overcome the small spring inside the cylinder and push the pistons back toward the center as far as they need to go. As Larry said, glued linings may bulge out a little if too much adhesive is used, or if the lining bows out a little before the adhesive sets. Can you rough up the linings and rub on some yellow chalk (or an indicator that won't affect the friction) and then spin with drum on to see where your high spot is rubbing on the lining? I have also had problem before with adjusters that were initially very rusted, have to use a flat file to clean out the grooves in both ends of the adjuster so the shoes can fully retract at the bottom. Or possibly crud in the inside of the female adjuster half, causing the male end of the adjuster to bottom out in the threads against the crud before it is fully closed/retracted. Even if the drum is tight, if you can spin it on new linings, you probably are not very far off. You don't need much more clearance, maybe only a few thousandths more. When I look at your 1st pic, it appears there is a bigger gap than mine where the two shoes meet at the top stud. Might check to see if any reason why the 2 shoes are not closing tight against the top stud. Just don't want shoes dragging much when you first drive; only takes a short distance to overheat the linings, and smoke/glaze them, because it ruins them & lose a lot of stopping power. Also, is it possible the blue shoes are a matched pair and should both be used on the same side, as the front and back shoes? Paul
  8. It looks like this is the drivers-side front, so the shorter length lining in the front appears correct. How bad is it dragging, will it turn by hand at all? You may have already tried; but sometimes after all drums in place, will need to apply good brake pedal pressure to center the whole brake shoe assembly inside the drum, allowing enough clearance to allow the drum to turn until it polishes up more to spin more free. Paul
  9. Gerry, I have never seen the metal disk in any old or new brake cylinders I have worked on. I have seen the larger diameter springs on some newer model cars, but not sure why the design is different or what the advantage is verses the old style springs. A local brake or repair shop, or the supplier that sold you the brake kit might have insight. Regarding the rest the assembly, being overly cautious-since the photo doesn't show all the new parts in the rebuild kit, your new kit does include new 2202 rubber seals in front of new 2198 metal pistons, correct? Paul
  10. Gerry, since they are compressible, they are not really re-usable, so you may want to pick up a couple extra ones in case a drum has to come off again. They start off 1/8" thick, but after torqued & compressed they almost look like a metal washer; your old one may still be in your hub that will need to be cleaned out. Cheers to you, making a lot of good progress on many items! Paul
  11. Tough to get off if torqued properly, so they don't come lose and spin off the key/ruin bearing/ruin axle. I got a drum off once with a 3-jaw puller without getting killed by any flying parts & without damaging the end of the axle nor groove- would not recommend. Needs a big hammer hit. If keeping the car would recommend a correct hub puller. I am very happy now with my Vintage Precision Tools puller also, (good customer service), because it spreads the thrust across all the threads, just like the orig axle design. Was $165 (Tool/packaging/tax/shipping).
  12. I don't have a manual for 48, and can not tell for sure from the photo but I think the spring insulators on 40's were also used in 48. May want to stay with them for the quieter ride with the spring and frame separated by rubber rather than welded/bolted/riveted metal to metal. Don't shave new insulators if go in tight, want them tight; press up in place slowly with hydraulic bottle jack. Here is the 1940 setup. Good Luck- Paul
  13. John, could the bulb mount in the hole you show in the blue dash paint? It appears the bottom chrome bar on the radio grill extends out far enough from the blue dash metal to fit the bulb underneath the chrome, and then the light might shine out the gaps in that area or possibly out a light hole out the left side of the bottom bar of the radio grill corner piece? Paul
  14. Scott has hydraulic in 41 too. But I don't have a pic of a 41 brake. This is a pic of an adjuster (on mech & hyd both). He keeps saying "I don't know what you mean; How do you back off the adjuster?; Its not obvious; What are adjusters? So just trying to help him out providing a visual of what the adjuster looks like that he needs to find and back off.
  15. Since this is a beauty, and not just a driver, you might consider buying the Authenticity Manual off one of the website vendors. That manual is nowhere complete, but it is still packed with a lot of useful info which we can not list all for you here in short replies. Love the color, my Dad originally had a maroon 1941 coupe with fold down seats in 1950's, and unfortunately sold it after I was born, because it was getting tougher with little room to throw the 3 kids behind the front seat!! Figure they had about 80-100 Zephyrs coming down the line every day, and pulled about 4/day off to the side to turn them into a Continental! (lower and stretched hood, polish the heads, shorter fenders, .....) So some things you can guess how they might be painted. Whatever installed before the paint shop came with body color paint, then engine, tranny,.... added. Underside did not get covered with body color paint, just hit-miss undercoating mostly down the centers. Paint shop painted what they could reach from the side, like the outside of the frame members were painted body color inside the fendors, but then it was just a matter of how much body color over-spray got on the rest of the underneath after that.
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