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Everything posted by DSpringer

  1. Ammeter showed battery was charging until last outing. Now no charge. Ammeter works (drops when headlights on). Followed generator test procedure in service bulletin: Jumper between Field and Arm, apply negative from battery to Arm to "motor" generator. Generator only motors when I spin it, and I only feel a force at one point in the rotation. Bad field coil? Both brushes and the commutator appear fine. Voltage regulator relatively new.
  2. Here's how mine is wired. The numbers correspond to the numbers on Narragansett's harnesses. Breaker Panel Wiring.bmp
  3. I have collected a lot of information on engine identification from George Tricket and others over the years. Too much to post. Email me at dapring42@gmail.com.
  4. DSpringer


    You could ask Dee Peecher about the speedometer. He did my '41 several years ago and did a really nice job. Even replaced the nearly opaque plastic disk that covers the odometer with a new clear one.
  5. If you need one I think Narragansett might still have them.
  6. You might try Merv Adkins for the intake manifold. They also have come up on ebay several times. I recommend replacing valves with 49-53 Ford type with solid valve guides and seals on the intakes (Earl Brown has them). That plus a PCV valve for positive crankcase ventilation will help keep the sludge away and reduce oil consumption. Skip Haney did a great job rebuilding my water pumps with high capacity impellers. If I wasn't running a Melling M-15 oil pump I don't think I would have any oil pressure. Ebay also lists new valve lifters, if you need them. If you need advice on removing valves, ask. It can be a nasty job on old engines that haven't run in awhile. p.s. One of my engines had a rats nest in the valve bay. Yours looks cleaner.
  7. Based on what's on my '41 you clearly have a '41 - the one so marked. Please don't dump it. I won't be at Hershey, but someone there will take it.
  8. On mine I have to push in on the ring shown in Keith's photo and rotate to the right (counter-intuitive, I know).
  9. It saves knuckles to pull the fan. I ground down a box end wrench to fit the bolts. Part of my LZ toolkit now.
  10. Oil: There's been a lot of discussion on the forum about the importance of using oil that contains ZDP (zinc additive), which is supposed to help preserve the cam from wear. I've been using Valvoline VR1 racing oil, which contains ZDP (it fouls catalytic condensers in newer cars). I've been running 20W-50 because I'm in the hot central CA valley and have had low oil pressure, even with a Melling M-15 pump. If you don't like that advice, Castrol has an article on what oil to use: http://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/products/cars/classic-oils/classic-engine-oils.html Gas Tank: I used the POR-15 three step kit to clean and seal my tank, which was pretty rusty but had no leaks. It's worked very well. The filter has stayed clean.
  11. Hi Dee. Still have another?
  12. Here's a couple I found back when I was looking. I would stay away from Bob Waller of Classic Auto Services. He does great work but it took me 13 months and a lot of threats and cajoling to get my parts back. Classic Woodgraining Mike Thompson 2640 Fairfield Pike Springfield, Ohio 45502 mike@classicwoodgraining.com 866-472-4648 Grain-It Technologies Inc. Evan Westlake 334 Commerce Court Winter Haven, FL. 33880 Evan@woodgraining.com 863-299-4494
  13. I don't have a trade but interested in buying the '41. daspring42@gmail.com
  14. Got my seals from Narragansett Reproductions quite a few years ago but I think they still have them. Have to drill out some rivets but it's not too difficult.
  15. At last notice Frenchy Dehoux lives in Queen Creek, AZ. I checked a few member directories and he wasn't listed, though I've seen his posts in years past. He's made some recent posts on The Ford Barn and you can try reaching him there.
  16. Boiled both floats, no bubbles. I haven't found a pressure gauge that reads as low as 3 lbs, but the problem may have been excess fuel pump pressure. I have two fuel pumps, one that came with another engine (AC, Made in USA) and a new one that looks nearly identical acquired from Sacramento Vintage Ford, but without any markings. I removed both springs, placed a strip of wood across them, and put a lead weight dead center on the wood. The AC spring was about 1/4" lower than the new one. After replacing the new spring with the old one I haven't experienced the overflow problem, but who knows what new mysteries time will bring? Now my speedometer is screaming at me. Always something, but it keeps me out of the bars.
  17. Hey Jeff, are you using an AM transmitter and playing through your stock radio? Where did you find a 6V FM radio?
  18. Thanks for all the advice folks. Didn't mention I also tried another float and shook both of them - empty. I thought about the fuel pump too. I got it new from Sac Vintage Ford - looks just like the original - and have been running it with no problems for two years. As I understand it, there is no bypass, but the spring regulates the pressure. As I understand it, when the float valve closes the spring stays compressed, no fuel gets pumped, and a constant pressure is maintained. I'll check the gas tank next. Must use a vented cap since there's no vent. Strange though since the weather's been cold I wouldn't expect a buildup of pressure. If nothing else works I'll spring for a fuel pressure gauge. Any idea what pressure I should be looking for? Do your Ford/Holley carbs have a vented float bowl chamber? There's a little knockout on the side of the top piece just to the right of where the fuel line connects that opens to a slot inside the float chamber in the top section of the carb. It's punched out on one of my carbs and not on the other. Stay tuned. I'm going to win this eventually and will let you all know how.
  19. Engine was running pretty good but rich until recently when I started it after it sat for about 3 weeks. Fuel started shooting out the float bowl vent on the side of the carb. Pulled the top, checked the float valve - sealed fine and nothing keeping it from closing. Reassembled, same thing, Tried a top from a spare carb that has the vent hole closed off. Gas streaming down the throat and engine struggling to run. Adjusted the float tab way beyond where it should be (where the float bracket is parallel to mounting face), and seemed to help but still running rough and won't idle worth a darn. Guess she's just hungry for attention.
  20. So do you only need dimensions for the carpet over the plywood deck, or do you also need the side panels and the one behind the seat back?
  21. Hey, Jeff. I put in Skip Haney high volume water pumps and have no baffles that I know of and no problem with overheating so far, even on 95+ days. Are the baffles aftermarket? I couldn't find them listed in the parts book.
  22. I've had good luck using a D-002 U-joint housing felt seal from Roy Naciewicz in place of the cork gasket. http://www.fordscript.com/
  23. If it's the same as a '41 Sedan I can provide the measurements. I also saved my original side covers to serve as templates. -Dave
  24. I did the 8BA valve conversion to try to stem oil use and it made a bit of a difference but not as much as I hoped. But since you are pulling the valves anyway it might be a good idea, especially if you have any burnt ones. But if you want some original NOS split guides and valves, I've got 'em. I found the K-D 918 valve guide puller to be very useful for removing and replacing valve springs, but fortunately the guides were not stuck and I didn't need it to pop out the valves. If the guides are really stuck about all you can do is use a cold chisel and sledge to break them off, pry out the springs, and pound the guides down into the valve galley. Flathead Jack might have a puller that can be used to pull stubborn valves and guides, but only if you can get the horseshoe keepers out first, which requires that the guides be loose enough to move. I didn't have much success with the hook-shaped K-D 917 to remove the keepers because it would usually just slice through the keepers before they would come out. If you do install 8BA valves be sure to get the o-ring type valve guide seals for the intakes. The square ones get torn up a bit when you install them. If you have any tappet noise to start with you should test your lifters. You can buy new ones on Ebay for not that much. After pulling the pan I found I already had a Melling M-15 pump but I still only get about 20 PSI - might be a weak relief valve in the valve galley. You might consider turning down the crank at the slinger ring and putting in a rope seal. I didn't and have a continual oil drip. I guess that's what that cotter pin is for in the bottom of the bell housing. If you remove the plugs in the crank oil journals to clean it you should pay special attention to replacing them so they're really tight. Spent last weekend under the car pulling the pan and knocking two of those boogers back in. Second time. Hope they stay this time. Make sure you install a new Felpro gasket with the large openings for the water passage, and have Sklip Haney rebuild your water pumps to keep you running cool. Keep us up to date with your progress.