DSpringer

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Everything posted by DSpringer

  1. Starved lifters can make a lot of noise. I would install a separate "wet" oil pressure gauge so you know what you have there first. See Dee Peechers posts on oil systems.
  2. Very nice! What are you dropping it into? I'm not nearly as ambitious - just did the Melling M-15 and 8BA valves & guides. I don't like the idea of pulling the intake manifold to adjust valves and my new hydraulic lifters are sooo quiet. Let us know when you fire it up. Anxious to hear how the triple carbs work out. How much did the heads set you back?
  3. This is great advice. In playing with my spare engine I find I just can't get a good angle to punch the center of the plugs. ---Tap in place once you have 12 good fits, then take a bolt with a nut and another bolt..screw them together,slide it in the journal, then back off enough to dimple the plug...
  4. Well, you were right. Before you responded I had already super-glued the plugs in and replaced the pan. The oil pressure dropped again after a long, hot trip so will be repeating the job shortly. I looked at AutoZone's freeze plug tool but I can't see how I can use it to get the right angle to hammer them into place. There's very little room between the crank counterbalances and the plugs. Anyone have experience installing these particular plugs? The YouTube videos were no help for this particular problem.
  5. Update: The new valve guides, valves, and seals cut the oil consumption by about a third. I drove it 300 miles in 90+ degree temperatures, about 50 of them at 65 without overdrive, and burned about one quart. I'm currently running Valvoline 20-50 racing oil, which has ZDP to protect the cam & lifters. Will be pulling the pan again because the oil pressure dropped - see my other post.
  6. Mine went in as described, from the inside. A 2x4 wrapped on the end with rubber sheeting supported the windshield - the other end I wedged against the opening for the transmission cowl to hold it in place while I messed with the upholstery and installed the molding. The window shop supplied a goopy black sealant to seal the rubber to the body which seems to keep the water out. As I recall I had some trouble getting it past the welting around the door openings, but managed it without any breakage. Those suction cups they use with large windows and a spare set of hands would make it a lot easier.
  7. Thanks, I'll do as you both suggested. New gasket set is on its way. That's pretty much how I torqued the heads and the threads on the studs are clean. I also oiled the nuts before I put them on.
  8. Again leaning on the infinite wisdom of LZOC forum-heads, I need advice on a head gasket leak. I put the heads back on after a thorough cleaning, using Felpro gaskets I've had around since the 1980's. There were some signs of coolant leakage before I started but no wet stuff. Now I have drips where the head meets the block above the exhaust manifolds. Torqued to 50 lbs. The gaskets that came off were solid copper. The Felpros are composite with copper lining at the passages. I can: 1. Throw in some Barsleak head gasket seal (e.g. band-aid approach) 2. Pull the heads and put them back on with gasket seal 3. Replace the gaskets with something more current 4. Have the heads milled 5. 3 + 4 6. Other suggestions? Looking at much earlier posts it sounds like their might be newer copper-asbestos-copper gaskets with large water passages around.
  9. Thanks for the tip, Tom. Before I saw your post I took it upon myself to put them back in with LocTite cyanoacrylate (super glue). It's supposed to be resistant to oil and seems to have done the job, but I wish I had peened over the edges of the plugs first to make a tighter fit. I'm now pondering whether I should remove all of the plugs and put them in properly so I don't experience another catastrophic drop in oil pressure. The plugs were installed convex side in, so the YouTube method of extraction wouldn't work. I would have to drill them out to get a grip on them.
  10. Just pulled my pan to install a new Melling M-15 and baffle from Alan Whelihan. What do you think I found installed? A Melling M-15! In the bottom of the pan I found two plugs that had RTV on them, and looking at the journals I found the holes they belong in. Just as 38ShortopConv said, they are known to fall out and mine did. That certainly explains the low oil pressure. Can anyone suggest what I should use to glue them in permanently? Anyone need a Melling M-15?
  11. Just finished installing new valves, solid guides (with seals on the intakes), and hydraulic lifters, which will hopefully reduce oil use. As hard a time as I had pulling down the guides to slip in the retainers I'm glad I didn't try to add the valve stem seals because I don't see how I could have gripped the guides without tearing the seals off. The split guides that came out had no seals at all. Alan Whelihan suggested putting seals on the exhaust guides as well as the intakes, but I had already purchased exhaust guides that didn't have a groove for the seal. I'll let you know if I do better than the previous 1 quart per 100 miles. Next job is putting in the Melling 15 oil pump.
  12. I dug into my brake system about 4 years ago after it sat for over 30 years. The fluid was like putty. I honed the slave cylinders and replaced the master cylinder. Our little Napa shop had the master cylinder in stock and seals for the slave cylinders, which I honed. They work great but I worry about the rubber lines failing on mountain roads. Good to know Earl has them. Dave
  13. Possibly the best way to determine if the shock is good is to pull the link and manually move the lever. If it's very loose then it either needs fluid or is bad or both. There's a thread on what kind of fluid should be used. I bought some from Mac's but it didn't do any good. Shipped the shocks off to Five Points (www.classicautoshocks.com), who rebuilt all of them. He replaced the seals with I think Viton and uses heavy weight gear oil. I'm very satisfied with them.
  14. I agree. Great experience with rewiring my 41 a few years ago. Did everything but the horn wire until the original shorted, so now it's 100% Narragansett. This diagram helped me with the more complicated part of wiring the circuit breaker/resistor board.
  15. No vacuum tank on my all original '41. The wipers just go fast and s-l-o-w.
  16. Missed the irony - didn't see this before I responded to your other post. You wouldn't have a windshield wiper knob for a '41 would you? Mine was replaced with a chrome know somewhere along the way.
  17. Nice! I know where you can get a perfect steering wheel for it.
  18. At Peecher's advice I installed a BK-49 manifold spacer - vacuum takeoff so I could use the manifold vacuum port for a PCV valve. $45 from columbiatwospeedparts.com.
  19. Nice, Keith. Wish I had that Columbia box checked on mine. Sure don't need the heater. I didn't need either to win a Gregory at the last GOF West. I think the judges were treating me to some beginners luck, especially since I had the rear bumper mounted upside down!
  20. Go easy on Jeff. He communicates differently than some of us but is a great asset to the Forum.
  21. DSpringer

    Clocks

    I've had success getting two 41 Zephyr clocks going using a needle to drop 3-in-1 oil on the bearings of the main spring and the two gears that are activated by that. Putting pressure on the winder for a few minutes will keep it running and helps the oil penetrate the bearings. One keeps good time and the other runs too fast, even when the adjustment is set to the slowest setting. Using wet-or-dry sandpaper to clean the contacts also helps. The battery should be kept well charged, because if there isn't enough current to pull the contacts open it will blow the fuse.
  22. I remember the thrill of getting mine back from the paint shop and all the thumbs up as I trailered it home. Now the fun starts.
  23. Thanks, all, I'll definitely give Marvel Mystery Oil a try. I ran the engine at a high idle for about 15 minutes today and it quieted down. Bruce, I thought all the Y-block Fords had solid, adjustable lifters. I'm running a '57 272 in my boat, and it has solid lifters.
  24. After over 10 years of restoration, finally get to drive the 65 miles to GOF West to show it off. So I go out and fire it up to make sure it's still running smooth, and what do I hear but one stupid noisy lifter. I have the parts to replace valves, guides, and lifters, but I was going to wait until after the meet. Any tips on temporary oil treatments to silence this thing? I'm running Valvoline 20W-50 racing oil now and get about 25 psi at a cold idle but it goes down after warmup. The other project is putting in a Melling M15 pump that is on order. Anyone else on the forum going to LZOC West?
  25. I keep seeing hydraulic lifters advertized on Ebay for HV-12's but they don't look like what I pulled out of my engine. Ebay on the left, mine on the right.