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jmotes

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About jmotes

  • Birthday 05/01/1960

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  1. Thank you for your input. I've been prepping the engine to pull it out and found some issues that made me think I'll just rebuild and then I'll be comfortable driving the car. Whoever rebuilt this engine (it is supposed to have been done over a decade ago, but only driven 1000 miles since) did some strange things... or the owner did. Maintenance seems to be an issue. I removed the exhaust manifold without breaking a sweat. There was no torque on any of those bolts. I could have taken a couple off with my fingers only. Finding this in other areas. it's like it was thrown together in a hurry. I'm having H&H rebuild it as soon as I get it out of the car. Tonight should do it. Now the next question. Where can I get my hands on a wiper motor and does anyone have good documentation on the vacuum and hydraulic systems?
  2. I have a 1948 Continental with a V12. Just bought it and last weekend took it out for it's first club cruise. 40 Miles to a nearby town. I felt confident since the car had a ground up restoration including engine and transmission rebuild 14 years ago and less than 2000 miles on the car since. Well my gauges didn't work, oil always showed 50 pounds, fuel always empty, temp, always maxed out and amps at zero movement, so when the oil gauge dropped to zero and then bounced around, I thought nothing of it... until the drive home. Engine clicking, turned into a heavy thumping knock. I made it home and the engine does run, but it's not sounding good. I did a compression test and My readings are as follows 105 90 95 91 100 98 105 97 90 91 95 105 The manual says pressure should be between 105 and 125... so I'm not looking great. I do think my car was warm, but i only ran it for 10 minutes before running the test. I added oil to three cylinders to do a wet test and the scores came up to 100, 101, and 100 for previous scores in the 90s. So it looks like overall my compression is low, I suspect the sounds aren't from just a cylinder but are valve and perhaps lifters, etc. I'm considering having the engine rebuilt, looking for a shop that really knows these engines and will not cut corners. I want it running better than new. Any thoughts out there?
  3. jmotes

    Photographing Antiques

    Car's I've photographed over the past few years. Looking for ideas on improving my work.
  4. Interesting. If that's the case, I'll look for a keyed system. I had no idea. This year model didn't come with a maintenance manual. Just an owner's manual and that's not mentioned. Thanks, Jim
  5. The coil I pulled from my 31 plymouth PA wasn't keyed. It was just a simple coil with a positive and negative connection plus the center main line to the distributor cap. I damaged it, bought a new 6 volt online and the car starts but it's not idling and running like an old washing machine. Any ideas? Oh I did locate top dead center number 4 and marked it on the distributor cap. I connected everything in a 1342 firing order going clockwise around the distributor. I can only assume the issue is my coil.
  6. Will any 6 volt coil work? If not, what's special about the early coils?
  7. Anyone know of one for sale? Also looking for a good radiator source to replace or repair mine. jim.motes@gmail.com Thanks, Jim
  8. I'll take a look at mine tonight and see where the cables are coming through the firewall. If it's in an accessable area, I'll post photos.
  9. Found the issue. Thanks. The coil wire was frayed and not making contact. Stripped it, bolted it back on and the Buick started right up first try.
  10. Have a question: I moved to Milwaukee for work. Shipped my 1947 Super from TX and it arrived with a dead battery. The truck driver offloaded it and then he jumped it with a 12 volt charger. I wasn't happy about it, but couldn't leave it on the side of the road in the area I'm living until we close on a house. The battery died again as soon as I got it into the garage. Bought a charger, the charger broke down before charging the battery. Bought a new battery, put it in and now the car doesn't seem to fire. Starter sound okay, but no start. Could the 12 volt jump screwed up anything that I should think about replacing? Another thought. I believe the 40s buicks had a safety feature that routed the generator through the ingnition. If the brushes were worn down, the car would not start. Could this be the issue with the dead battery and now the failure to start?
  11. I just ordered gaskets, but can't find copper clad or anything more advanced than standard gaskets. Anyone have a source?
  12. Mine makes a horrible noise under the car... if there's still one out there for sale, I'm possibly interested.
  13. Oh also looking for a good mechanic in the Allen, Texas area. Someone who knows these cars
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