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Everything posted by 56Roadmaster

  1. Gary, As an after the fact tid-bit to chuck into your memory, many of the cars have a number stamped into the door, or trunk lock, or lock shaft, which is the key code. I used that to get keys for my roadmasters. (you have to pull the lock set just the same to see the numbers which are about 1/16 " tall)
  2. Frank, Napa sells a type FA which is basically a direct replacement, I had looked this up for my 56 Roadmaster which uses the type A. Check with a local Napa dealer. By the way my step son and I did finally take his 51 Desoto out for a ride last year, that fluid drive is a funky transmisson, It did work well though after sitting for many years. We ended up completely rebuilding the engine though due to a knock, so it should be on the road as soon as I finish a little sheet metal work. Do you know of a way to adjust the hi range shift linkage? it ocassionally won't go in all the way, I have determined it to be the linkage throw, but see no obvious adjustment, or do we have to replace the rubber linkage bushings? Thanks Scott
  3. Expansion piece? Are you talking about the throttle dash pot? A small (1 1/2") diameter diaphram operated part which the throttle settles back on. If it is just hardware you can purchase fittings at your local auto parts NAPA stores usually have a good selection, ask to look in the weatherhead catolog. I have GM carb parts and service manual which cover s your carb, it does not show any vacuum fittings to the carb. You can have a copy of the pages on the 56 Caddy carbs if it might help send me address to wilebill@att.net. and I will mail you a copy. As for the brake pedal if that has the power booster/master cylider unit that mounts on the lower firewall like my 56 Buick, the return spring is in side the vauum can, there is am adjustment on the pedal so that you can prevent binding of the shaft which would cause it to not return all the way.
  4. Most Buick, Olds, Pontiac big cars of that time frame are interchangeable. There should be lots of info on that car. Try the Olds Club and a general web search. Also trip to your favorite salvage yard shouldland you some info.
  5. Looks kind of like GM product early 60's?
  6. Diz is right, old wiring has some leaks to ground not mention resistance probably being high at old oxidized connections, you can improve your connections by cleaning them, but like you say the brittle casing will generally crack when you move it. Another possible source: Rhode Island wire service, they are on the web.
  7. I have '46 Ton and a half Dogde (WF-32) w/o the vacuum booster and I have the truck registered commercial and use the heck out of it. I have found that you can get some better performance out of the wiper by adding some light oil. It is a quick fix, but you could rebuild the wiper motor yourself, they are not that complex and kits are still available. I was comming home 2 weeks ago with full load of wood (bed is 7'X 11') and ran into a down pour, just had to let off on the throttle now and then going up hills
  8. Look for a code on the pad between the first two cylinders below spark plugs, on driver's side. The number you have is probably on the driver's front end cylinder bank which is the serial number. Since 1966 most Buick engines have the code along a pad on the drivers side below spark plugs and between the exhaust manifolds. anyway if 1968 code is PO= 350 2bbl 230hp or PP =350 4bbl 280 hp (400 engine code is PR 340 hp) these are all GS, special, century and Regal.As well as the big cars.
  9. If 66-67 Engine (v-8) passenger side front lower part of cy;inder head code V,X=330 cube, one is 250 hp, other is 320 hp, doesn't say which letter. V=400 cube which could be 300 or 350 horse. six cyl number on pad on block behind dist. code F=250 155hp. Source: Chilton's repair manual 1973.
  10. The one on the right appears to be a for a truck probably 1&1/2 ton. My 46 Dodge WF-32 uses that radiator, I believe 41-47 trucks were essentially the same.
  11. Matt, Your problem is that plate and condeser housing IS GROUNDED something IS shorted out in the distributor or cable. It When the points are open you should only have continuity between the ground side of the points (non-insulated) and everything else. It could be that your armored cable is shorting against (1) inside its housing (2) between the breaker plate and the distributor housing (3)the insulator at the plate is broken (4) it is also possible that the nut/screw at the ignition switch end is shorting against the fuel tank/cowl behind the dash.(5) check the wire from the points going under the plate for bare spots Remove the armored cable and check to see if the wire has continuity to the sheathing it should NOT, inspect the distributor end it may appear ok and then cause ground when the spring is compressed. With the cable out do your continuity checks on the breaker plates,if you get an open the problem lies with the cable or at the connection, if every side still has continuity with points open, remove the condenser wire, do the checks again, if you get an open then it was the condenser, if not take out the breaker plate and check it, check also for rubbing of insulated parts.
  12. Matt, The "no short" condenser you show is the original style condenser and does in fact go in where you illustrate however your car has had the unitized points set installed (basically a modern upgrade) and the condenser is on that plate. Originally the old style plate had a metal strip on the bottom side of the plate which had a screw hole in it which was used to attach the brass end to, a real pain to start sometimes (I had a 31 coupe). you mention that the points plate and condenser all had continuity, that should be true only with the pionts closed (grounded). Also to index the points you don't move the distributor body because it has fixed indent for the set screw, you instead use the large screw on the top of the points cam shown clearly in your photo. Loosen the screw and move the cam and retighten. Which leads to the next suggestion (If in fact your cam gear has NOT failed) check the lobes on the pionts cam, alot of after market cams are "soft" and wear the lobes down some times unevenly or completely off( check the points gap at each lobe, if this is the case try to get an original Ford part. Also it could be that the screw mentioned is not tight or (1) the cam has lost the serated edge on the bottom (helps it grip the distributor shaft) or(2) the screw is bottoming out before the cam is tight (there should be a washer under the screw head) That would allow the cam to slip on the shaft. Finally follow the retiming procedure in a Ford book using the timing pin and setting the cam, and correct gap.
  13. Tom, At the risk of putting things bluntly. By the time you get through trying to get $10 a set or less shoes you could have had the shoes relined and back on the car for under $80 by now. Face it the days of finding shoes for $5 are over.
  14. Hoooey, Your father's car?!! that's neat, is it still a driver?
  15. Frank's right, We had a set relined by the brake place,which is actually Brake and Equipment warehouse 455 harrison St Northeast, Minneapolis MN 55413-2408 all that info on web that Frank gave, and If I recall it was $35/set that is $70 total for the car! how can you beat that + the piece of mind of having ajob done right with fresh bonding or rivets. They also do nice work on sleeving fast turn around, NAPA also sells wheel cylinders and kits for that car. Car was 51 Desoto s-15 we also have a 50 windsor 6 banger Good luck
  16. Try Benchwick's Look in Hemmings under services offered they were able to get parts for my 1946 Brockway Truck, and by the way try Zenith fuel systems they are still in business, and that is where Benchwick's got my kit.
  17. Yep, my mistake that was fordee9r who drilled the holes. I am surprised that you could not achieve a wheel lock (although skidding actually actually has a lower coefficient of friction and thus it takes longer to bring the car to a stop: hence the reason for anti-lock brakes)by that adjustment I can get that on all the cars I mentioned having done.
  18. Rich, My two cents, I agree with JB-ed and fordee9r, don't waste your time on the Miller tool, there are much simpler and equally as satisfactory ways to adjust those brakes, I have done it on (3) 1928 model Q Plymouths, '32 Custom Imperial, 29 Model 75, 46 Dodge dump truck GVW 13,500lb (which I have registered commercial and it often has a load of 3 tons on and will stop on a dime), 49 plymouth, 51 Desoto. Jb eds slotting is a great idea, in fact the 32 Custom Imperial (all 31, 32 and 33) have built in slot with a metal cover screwed on to drum, my 46 truck also has factory slots (not covered) the only thing that would be really important is to drill (round) the ends of the slot as this prevents a stress point from which a crack can grow, As far the heat issue, that is negligible, I would be more concerned when putting a heavy coat of paint on the drum. Here is the simplest and an accurate way to get proper brake adjustment. 1.) back off shoe adjusting cams (top).2.) bring BOTH anchor pins to adjust them to get the shoe heel at minimum extension (farthest from the drum).3.) Make a punch mark on the anchor pins on the back side of each for reference ( or you can slot them for using a screw driver to turn, I have seen both, and some will have arrows too). 4.) Install the drum and start with one anchor pin and adjust it until the shoe drags lightly and then back off just a hair, note your reference mark, take the drum off, and tighten the anchor pin lock while holding the anchor pin. 5.) do the same for the other shoe. 6.) with the anchors adjusted and the drum on, adjust the shoe toes, by turning the adjustment cams, turning from the top (12 o'clock to 3 or 9) down brings the shoe out, move out until the shoe drags and then back off a hair. you are done, should take you less than 15 min/wheel. Drag, what I mean is a full contact drag that is the drum isn't just hitting some high spot, making a shhinng----shhinng ----shhinng as you spin, but a steady constant drag, not enough to lock it though, In fact when you are done some slight high spot noise is ok, because that will wear in, in fact 9 times out of ten if adjust the brakes to have no noise you will find your pedal low. PS be sure you have the master cylinder rod adjusted right so it gives about 1" free play at the foot pad, you may have to go a little less to get a good pedal to compensate for worn clevis pin / loose pedal bushing. Forget the fancy tool , A liitle common sense will go a long way
  19. Rich I had good luck with Brake and equipment warehouse (800) 233-4053 They are at 455 Harrison St. Minneapolis, MN 55413-2408 ask to speak with Rob. They have done alot of work for Ed on his Chrysler brakes and I just had some done for a 51 Desoto, sleeve and reline, they do good work. website: info@brakeplace.com the prices are very reasonable. For those stepped cylinders they should be availble at NAPA still, you have to match them up in the NAPA buyers guide. Another source is Northwestern Auto supply Inc. (616) 241-5611 or (800)704-1078 they are at 1101 S. Division Grand rapids, MI 49507 Happy Hunting. PS FYI the method of attaching the new linings to the shoe: either rivets or boding is equally strong and durable.
  20. Hi All, I have been working on a '32 Custom Imp. Conv coupe for a fellow out here. where can we find pictures of the 1932 car shows which may have introduced this body syle, we are trying to find out if this car was the car that introduced the conv coupe body style for that year.Thanks
  21. Hi Rich, The forward shoe will (in your Lockheed system) wear somewhat faster do to what is called self-energizing. The forces in the brake drum tend to PULL the shoe in to the drum on the shoe that expanding in the direction of rotation (forward shoe) and PUSH the shoe away from the drum on the shoe that is expanding opposite to direction of rotation (rear shoe) That being said the Lockheed brakes were later modified to have a stepped wheel cylinder and/or a primary and secondary shoe. with the smaller piston and/or shorter brake lining being installed on the self-energizing side. Bendix did a really slick deal with their arrangement which caused both shoes to be self energizing, the basic idea still used in today's drum systems. Don't worry about trying to improve what you have though, as long as the cylinders are good and linings good and true, they will last 10's of 1,000's of miles. ....OH but are they a pain in the rump to adjust
  22. Well, I agree about the abuse theory, I don't think those engines can take the max Rated RPM. I have alot of experience with the Pontiac 326-389-400 engines of the 60's which are similar (as far a bore stroke) never pushed them above 4,800 RPM.(except maybe when over 130MPH) As for the story of the 140MPH Riv. I would believe it I owned several 66 Tempest's with 3.23 gears and both would wrap the speedo well beyond 120 headed back towards zero which was a least 130 MPH, but boy do those cars FLOAT at that speed !! You'd really had to pay attention!
  23. Everything you need still avialble through NAPA including pistons, I did my 430 over 2 years ago, about $800.00 in parts that was including pistons, with some machine work (did not have it bored) was total at $1200.
  24. Rich, Now you are carrying on the tradition of WPC, I had the good fortune to read his autobiography, he talks about his first experience with a car, he bought a 190? Welch, completely disassembled it BEFORE ever driving it, to study it. Then when he put it together and started to drive he couldn't control it and ran down the neighbors fence and yard. .... At least you did not wreck a fence!
  25. Packard V-8 you are absolutely right, I stand corrected on having the steering box slightly off center. For the reason of the worm center, and also limiting the turn in one direction.
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