56Roadmaster

Did you calculate those prices based on the bottle size...you have too much time on your hands ha!!! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Hi Mick, If this is hydraulic like other Chrysler cars and you have FIRST adjusted the bands corectly and have bled ALL the air out of the system then I would suspect the free play adjustment between the pedal and master cylinder. On the master cylinder push rod you should find a jam nut and flat on the push rod that goes into the cylinder while the part that connects to the brake pedal is threaded. Lossen the jam nut and turn the push rod part that goes into the cylinder to take up the slack between pushrod and piston. if you slowly move the pedal you can feel it travel down and then start pushing on the piston.Adjust to about 1/8" travel AT THE PUSROD-PISTON interface is good, and with some worn pedal linkage you'll probably get about and inch free play at foot pedal. DO NOT take all the slack out of the pushrod as this can result in the brakes not releasing. A little common sense and you'll get the brakes to apply with less travel. Providing everything else is right on the system. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> If these are mechanical brakes suspect worn linkage pins. and rod slack adjusters would need be taken up.

Chris, What a nice engine!! I have a friend who works for Fire-Fly restorations in Union, Maine. all they do is that era fire trucks. Those engines are really some thing to hear them them run. That must be what a Stearns 45-90 sounds like!. As for your brass, the toilet bowl cleaner idea is on the money,it is the acid content that does the job. I use pure citric acid powder mixed with water,say 1/2 cup acid to 1 quart~ (1 liter to you). It may have to be applied a couple times, It is best to wear gloves it does not attack most paints, but you do have to flush it with a lot of water after so it doesn't keep attacking. Then polish with a very light grade automotive buffing compund, and final polsih with Never Dull or Brasso. Another alternative since you have alot of flat surface is to use a power buffer with a little heavier automotive grade compound and then work down to a finer grit to get a high shine. As for the tappets why don't you actually call Fire Fly restorations in Union Maine. the owner's name is Andy or you might talk to Thom or Justin (my friends) they have experience with these engines. Stop leak is OK although it won't solve the probalem idefinitely or plug large gaps (1/16" or more). I have never had trouble with heat transfer (no noticable) in my '46 Dodge 1 1/2 ton truck which leaks like a sieve at the top. I run this truck for every day use and it is often loaded to capacity.

Hi all Just thought I would share some info that may be useful to someone. Here are is list of currently still available parts for Buick 322,430 that I have. These parts are available through NAPA. So you may find the parts you are looking for are closer than you thought. I also included how to id Buick carb tags (from 1956 Rochester bulletion) this ID tag is on both Rochester and Carter. The triangle metal tag is attched on the carb bowl body, the main number in the triangle is the carb part#, below it are 4 boxes the boxes (from left to right) contain the modification letter A,B,etc the next box is the month and year(A6) would be Jan, 1956, next two boxes are factory inspection symbols. Here are parts for the 322. Fel-pro complete gasket set (with original tin style head gaskets) FS 7613SH 2;Napa oil filter (comes with gaskets) 1121. The following is alist for 322 that I have not verified to be in still in production but should be. NAPA points CS778A;Condenser RR174;Cap RR158; Rotor RR159 Coil IC12;Resistor ICR13, Carb kit 25127/25163 Rochester (you may have to put an A after carb numbers) Carter 25004. For the 430 (stuff I bought last year) NAPA parts Exhaust manifold gaskets MS 90539;Intake gasket MS 15921 X;Timing cover gaskets(includes front seal) JV 860; Rear main seal JV 742; Head gasket set(includes valve covers but not intake) HS 3492 VE; Cam bearings set (Clevite)SH 1361 S; Cam shaft(stock specification)229-1646-586;Lifters 213-1646;Standard bore Pistons (stock comp ratio) 224-1735;Main bearing set (standard) MS 908P; Rod bearings standard CB 762P; Water pump 55-828; Oil filter 1248. That tricky little shallow plug at the end of the cam shaft (looks like a freeze plug)is 1& 59/64" diameter. I have had good luck with NAPA parts and My 430 has 40,000 miles on the rebuild and travels 100miles a day every day at about 2600 RPM. I don't beat on in but I don't baby it either. For you roadmaster people NAPA still lists fron brake lines for 56 part # 13589. If any one needs 56 Part# info I have 56 master parts book. When you go to NAPA sometimes this stuff is not listed on their computer you have to get the man to look at the books. I have even been able to get stuff for my 46 Dodge truck head gasket, dimmer switch, etc. You would be surprised how much stuff is still available through NAPA. I hope that you find this post useful if you are searching for parts for one of these items. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

If you have the key number have a new one cut, If not the number should be on the trunk or door lock cylinder or extension. There are some hardware stores that can cut a new key from this number. I had to do this on two of my '56's the third '56 had the key (luckily) taped to a heater hose under the hood from years ago!

If you talking about like the '56 the lock postion locks the shift and prevents ignition from being turned back on with out key. In the on position you can pull the key out and leave it out and turn car on or off but prevents going to lock presumably to help with groceries before days of lawsuits. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Hi Gm parts man I would like a copy too if possible: You have to go where you can get a scanner and scan the pages and save as file in something like MS word.Save that in your computer and then use your email's attachment feature, browse file and attach. We can't e-mail you since you don't have your e-mail in your profile. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> my email is wilebill@att.net Thanks In response to 55-56 I have both types of engines and definitely a better exhaust manifold system for sure.

Fitting screen name for a Buick post, Well Harley, take this for what is worth. I have a'69 430 I installed in my '83 Buick, i run every day 100 miles round trip at around 2400-2800RPM and usaully acelerate pretty hard. I have rebuilt the engine once because i hammered on it too hard with low oil going into a corner, It had 110,000 on it then. I now have just about 40,000 on rebuild. It is very reliable. from my experience the oiling system is a little on the weak side and it tends to loose its prime when sitting over night. So a good warm up is in order. I think if you really start pushing it hard you will have troubles. For reasonably normal driving with some hard accelerations you should be ok. Good new is I rebuilt mine in 2001 and I was able to buy all the parts including Pistons, cam, lifters, and gaskets from NAPA.( I can send you all the part numbers if you want) Also Melling makes a high volume pump kit, recommended that you do that at least. One problem is that the timing cover is also the oil pump housing so if the pump annular clearance is too big, the cover has to replaced... may be hard to find. One more thing in stock form these 430's are ABSOLUTELY SMOOTH AND QUIET. A NOISY VALVE TRAIN SHOULD (EVEN AT IDLE) BE A RED FLAG TO WEAK OIL PRESSURE, WHICH CAN BE A BAD PUMP BUT MORE LIKELY BAD CAM BEARINGS OR BAD ROD&MAINS. I have noticed normal idle pressure at about 5-15psi and 30-40psi stock and with hv pump the idle is about the same but 50-60psi on high end 75 when cold. On sudden stops oil pressure often drops off to nothing attribute to no oil pan baffels. over all 430 is pretty good, but if you remeber nothing else, a good stock 430 is like I said enviably SMOOTH AND QUIET, like you could pur wine glass on it. there is my thoughts and experience. GOOD LUCK

Hi, First is it a two door? If so (few dings /surface rust ok no rot) looking for doors, trunk lid, possibly fenders and hood (those would work from a four door). Bumpers. E mail me wilebill@att.net thanks

Hi Try getting a hold of the GM united Motors parts book they list applications. I do beleive the longer number is the series...It is any way the one used in finding the guts( brushes, bearings, points, cond, rotor, cap etc.).

That is definitely dodge, My 1946 1 1/2 ton flat bed truck uses that same style, though dimensions might be a little different. I might be interested in it,if it would fit my truck. Mine has a tank leak and I plan on fixing it, but a spare would be good. The truck is registered commercial and we still work the heck out of it. If interested in selling e-mail privately and please provide dimesions for core, mount bolt spacing, overall height and width and price. Thanks

Hi AK, No an exact method but, I am thinking that the springs may add an half inch or so.Or they may just be a little stiffer and only improve handling. Why don't you have them copy your original springs. I have a set from a 55 Super (still In the chasis) and also 56 Roadmaster (in chasis) Both with out A/C. I am willing to bet that both 55 and 56 Super/Roadmaster used the same spring rate. They are nearly identical in construction and weights. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> A question for you! Did you get my email regarding that solid lifter cam set up? I sent you where and how to find part # and what they were for the export set up. I am interested in your set up if it is for the 322. I have quite a few Mechanical parts and some body parts for a 55 Super which I parted for my 56 Roadmaster since doors and many other parts are the same. Thanks

Hi from an engineering stand piont and in reality heat treating if done by a KNOWLEDGABLE COMPETANT shop can restore the metal microstructure to desired type; typically for carbon steels, pearlite. LONG AND SHORT; heat treating regrows NEW unstressed crytsals in the metal,and the quenching and cooling finalizes the correct crystal structure. Off hand you need to know what knid of torque the shaft will be required to handle. I am sure there is plenty of information on axle shaft metallurgy out there. Suppliers of raw shafting such as McMaster-Carr provide the alloy type, tensile strength, shear modulus (that is what you are most likely interested in it tells in lbs/square inch max load in torsion material can take). You should use a safety factor of 2 that means that the load you apply is 2X LESS than what material can handle, that is probably what they used back then. Reference Mechanical engineers handbook or Machinery's Handbooks also Strength of materials. SAE handbooks will probobaly provide most information on axles. You are probably going to end looking at medium to high cabon steels.

Hi danlb63, There was either a carter WCFB or a Rochester 4GC in the four barrel, either is correct. Only really sure way to ID is by the tag (many times lost over the years) attached to the body it has part # and date and revision #. From a Rochester parts and service book I have here are part # Original carb #7009200 (what was put on the car at factory) Service carb # 7009900 (what the dealer would supply as replacement). the coorect flange (carb base) gasket is GM# 1170643. I believe that gasket is still available from felpro or NAPA. as an FYI the complete engine gasket kit (does NOT have carb gasket) is still available from felpro # FS 7613 SH2 this has the original high compression 'tin' head gaskets. Also FYI NAPA still has carb kits available for either the WCFB or 4GC, you just have to get the guy to look it up in the books.

Best to check Hemmings for suppliers, 400 CI Buick is not ucommon. Unless you broke your crank, best off taking it to a reputable engine shop in your area and have it turned.They will also be able to supply right bearings and don't forget to have your block line bore checked and rods resized. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> If that is not an option start looking for junkyard engines, at Buick suppliers etc. OFF Line sometimes better to talk at some one. Bearings should not be a problem I got pistons, lifters, bearings and cam for my 430 through NAPA last year and your 400 is much more popular.

Hi Peter, I agree with you that things are complicated and I LOVE Antque cars and to me the IC piston engine is the most fascinating energy conversion device ever constructed, BUT none the less it is a polluter....because of the FUEL. Here are some solutions and THIS is what needs to get out there. I am finishing (later in life) a mechanical engineering degree at Univ. of Connecticut and I have been working on fuel cells there. Pure Hydrogen fuels are the answer a fuel cell is relatively simple in constuction and when hydrogen and air are used as the reactants the product is water and electricity. PRACTICAL???? you ask??? EVERY MAJOR CAR MANUFACTURER HAS A WORKING USEABLE (NOT A TROUBLESOME PROTOTYPE) BUT REAL DRIVEABLE FUEL CELL POWERED CAR.... PEOPLE NEED TO PUSH FOR THOSE VEHICLES...GET THE WORD OUT.... AND MOST USE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A REFORMER WHICH REACTS GASOLINE TO PRODUCE HYDROGEN... the refromer has some CO2 but no NOX output and the CO2 is much much less than IC engines.OK SO IT STILL USE GASOLINE AS PRIMARY FUEL SOURCE...BUT WE'ER TALKING 50-60 MPG OR BETTER AS THE NORM. PLUS AS HYDROGEN FILLING STATIONS ARE INSTALLED LESS GASOLINE WILL BE NEEDED. (SEE BELOW OIL COMPANIES CONSPIRACY THEORY DISPUTED). In addition BMW has cars that use IC engines that burn hydrogen directly they too are more than JUST a prototype there are over 300 running about the streets of Germany.... The problem world wide is that the hydrogen infra structure for refueling is not there yet.... BUT many companies build electrolyzers which use electricity to produce the hydrogen such a device could be installed in home garges. Danger??? well working with hydrogen personally...yes it is very flamable but the conditions in fuel cells and techonological advances in containment make it as safe as gasoline. Plus hydrogen if it leaks goes right up it the air where as heavy gasoline vapors settle and spread along ther ground. HYDROGEN HAS THREE (3) TIMES THE HEATING VALUE OF GASOLINE!!!!! THAT MEANS WEIGHT FOR WEIGHT YOU GET 3 TIMES MORE POWER!!! check out fuel cells on the web, Ballard power of Canada is a big leader in vehicles with fuel cells. This is what we need to get out there HYDROGEN POWER it is comming anyway but not soon enough. Hydrogen can produced in many ways besides from oil and solar, wind and water sources can be used to generate the needed electricity. Oh for the oil company conspircay theorists...THE BIGGEST PRODUCERS OF HYDROGEN TODAY ARE THE OIL COMPANIES!!!! So lets enjoy our antique cars...but lets bring the age of hydrogen here sooner, clean the air, and stop supporting the enemy.

Hi, You should check to see that gasket(incorrect gasket can do that) and carb match the manifold porting. The counter weighted butterfly limits the engine from bogging by adding too much fuel if four barrel is opened at low rpm. As the engine RPM increases with carb at wide open throttle (WOT) the velocity of the air through carb forces that butterfly open more. The counter weight is there to tend to close the butterfly.There is NO mechanical connection to that part its opening is purely dependent on air velocity. PS was that 56 Roadmaster a two door or conv? and if so did it have trunk lid or doors or fenders? if so will the owner sell the parts? I am looking for a decent set of doors and trunk lid and fender/ hood. If it is a 4dr and the hood/fender stuff is good i would be interested. Please send me an e-mail if parts are available, and a contact. Thanks

Just be sure you are using the right alloy and if it has to be heat treated etc. As an FYI in future for welding, In general the welding produces a smaller grain structure in the weld zone and cooling causes stressing in the weld area. one the welding is done or heating, to ensure the integrety of the shaft it must be heat treated. The heat treating process first raises the shaft tempertaure high enough to cause the Growth of NEW UNstressed grains in the weld area and shaft,then the shaft is cooled/quenched at a certain rate to form a desired microstructure, for steels this is usually pearlite, martensite which is the hardest steel microstructure is good for wear surface but is brittle the pearlite is a good compromise and is most likley the original shaft microstructure. There are several different structures that can be formed depending on how the material is cooled. My main piont is that PROPER heat treating in WILL restore the original part strength and it will be as if it were NEVER welded. References: See your favorite Materials analysis books! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Now you can enjoy driving. You problem was fresh in my mind, since my '46 Dodge truck (which is registerd commerical and gets used ALOT) recently had the same problem-caused by the points. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Hi, Not sure about the bell housing match. If you are going that far just put in the whole tranny w/ later engine. My experience with Chrysler products is that they are not easily intercahngable. Of course any thing can be done and neatly. Just a thought... for all the trouble the 29 engine is on par with the later ones... better off rebuilding it.

The spring ring cable has a steel spring cast in the lead which automatically puts pressure on the battery post there are NO bolts on the terminal. Replacement OEM means same length, wire gauge, except that the terminal end is the conventional bolted design. Spring ring cables are readily available through reproduction, and the same cables fit several makes i.e. Buick, Olds, Pontiac. You can often find originals at swap meets. Probably CARS inc. has them too.

Some suggestions: See if oil filter to block adapter will work from a later nailhead. Take your block off and pick a filter such as NAPA #1258 (short) or 1049 (long) (for Buicks, Olds and Pontiac Large displacement engines) go to your local machine shop ( not an engine guy but a job shop) and have them modify the block to accept the filter. Napa catalogs have all the thread sizes and gasket dimension your machinist will need. Lastly of course, NAPA does still supply (quite readily) the original filter I have bought several. (I know putting gaket up is a pain- coat with a little sticky grease and that will hold it up, as for the dirty hands well... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

Haven't an exact answer but it depends on the bore and stoke. Since you probably have manual advance run about 3/4 advance on the lever. Good way to set timing in lieu of book- is to run engine up a little over 1/2 max rated RPM and slowly turn the distributor to where the engine runs the smoothest. Then take on road test make sure no gas knock occurs-indicative of too much advance. In general the lower the RPM less advance.

Hi Have you checked the points, they may be dirty causing intermitant operation,some times even new ones can be dirty if they have been in store a long time. If they are clean and gap is correct, how is the distributor shaft bushing- wiggle the shaft and watch the points any play may be causing the pionts to have varying dwell. Check the coil wire to the distributor for grounds and the insulator on the dist at the wire junction, also the wire inside the distributor to the pionts it can some time ground on the breaker plate. If there is a ground lead for the pionts is it good? Quick check on the pionts function connect a test light or volt meter between pionts and ignition wire ( take off of coil for test) light or meter should cycle consistantly on/ off 6v/0volts. If not check power from switch side with meter crank engine does voltage drop alot or little (less than a volt) if drops alot trouble is switch side, if not trouble is distributor. Another check with cap off ignition on hold coil hi tension lead about 3/16" away from a good ground manually 'flick' pionts with a pencil or some thing insulated coil should exhibit a spark each time. Hope that helps.

Also as a help all series used same snorkel, 56 will also work.