56Roadmaster

Hi, <BR> thoughts on this: check and see if its possible to remove the clutch driving drum. then you may be able have the flywheel machined, surfaced, and drilled to accept a single disc clutch. however if I remember corectly the transmission input shaft is not desiged with a conventional spline shaft when equipped with multidisc. so might have to look into another tranny or modify the input shaft.<BR> there are many clutch assemblies available, you should pick one based on the horsepower you expect to transmit and give yourself a little more as a safety factor, another thing you have to consider is how you will be changing the dynamic balance of the engine, which could result in broken cranshafts and /or rapid wear on the bearings, in addtion you may have to counter bore the crank for a pilot bushing.<BR> IT CAN BE DONE BUT, if you are not up to the skill required of an excellent machinist I would recommend finding the local fellow in you area(Not necessarily the one with the bigest and most expensive shop)who is capable and there always is that one guy.<BR> Now with that in mind a couple thoughts on your existing unit. <BR> 1 If you let this car sit alot you are bound to have trouble, so even if you start it in the garge on jack stands one a month and run the clutch with a little drag on the brakes you will avoid the rust locking up.<BR> 2 Take the clutch apart and clean the driving drum, clutch material and dirt prevent the driven members from floating as needed<BR> 3 check for wear ridges in the driving drum which also affect the release a good shop can weld and clean up those ridges.<BR> 4 when reassembling put a LIGHT coat of Molybedum grease on the driving drum splines .<BR>5 do the same for the tranny drum and splines<BR> 6 check and clean all your linkage points replace pins and bushing if they are worn and LIGHTLY grease all internal linkages.<BR> 7 make sure your engine and tranny are not leaking oil on to the clucth.<BR> 8 scotch bright clutch steels<BR> 9 reasseble and adjust THE WAY FACTORY SAYS<BR> Well I know that is alot but I have found that with the many antique cars I have worked 99.9999% of the time cleaning correctly adjusting and refurbishing the AS DESIGNED original equipment you will obtain a pleasurable safe and more than satisfactory operation!

Hi,<BR> Most likely you can update, but you will need to give thread size,Left or right hand thread as well as stud taper size or ball socket size.<BR> possibly try Just Suspension In New Jersey, USA, for a replacement they might help you. <BR> Really you are going to have to carefully measure yours and compare with modern specifications, If you have the tapered stud mount type, start comparing some Dodge, GMC, and Ford 1 ton and up trucks from late 1960's to present.<BR> Another thought my 46 Dodge flatbed uses a 1" thread with a tapered stud,one LH one Rh thread.They may be close is a WFM 1.5 ton model.

By Golly,<BR> a great thread, I have a 1966 Tempest that last saw the light of day in 1989, I stopped using it when the frame went It has been going on since then, I won't get get rid of it, I has out weathered 3 spiteful girlfriends and has been moved in parts (body off) 3 times with me ( friends got sick of lifting body), But I have nice Texas frame under it, fresh engine, an exhaust system (bought with six months pennies and quarters). It is in the garage and eventually it will go again, Hey you just gotta keep at it.<BR>

Hi,<BR> Seem to remember same problem along time ago myself, so try this either SECURELY tie a wire or strong nylon cord on to existing unit leaving it long enough to stay inside passage and for you to grab, pull out old wire, then attach new wire and pull it back through, you should tape the antenna wire end with electrical tape so the tangs don't hang up.<BR> This should work IF there are no clips some where under the headliner. Which should be apparent if when yo pull on the wire it doesn't move.<BR> One thought

Hi Wardy,<BR> you should have no trouble getting exhaust manifold gaskets,I'm don't know what your common parts store chains are, but NAPA over here would have them.<BR> Yes they work quite well many miles.<BR> You will have chance to fix leak at pipe joint while you are in there. Some have donut ring others are metal to metal.<BR> Take your time and "work" the bolts carefully if they "feel" stubborn, worst case you have to pull head off if you break bolt.<BR> If you break the ones at the pipe joint and there is enough left to attach a vise-grip to heat the area around the stud to cherry red and 99% of the time bolt spins out keep the heat on until you're out- No this does not signifigantly affect manifold as far as warping.<BR> finally most likely head is fine.

Among other things, start going to some good swap meets in your area and pay attention to to guys selling the books, you should be able to find books for that car fairli easily.

Ray,<BR> I agree with Stellite if you are SURE there is no mouse nest or mud in the jackets, I would lean to the retarded timing,(I have in extreme cases seen the manifold turn cherry read in addition to the boiling)<BR> Additionally some things to check,<BR>1.Head gasket leak (if this doesn't have jugs like Buick)<BR>2.Cracked head(jug) or cylinder- we have seen a 31 Buick do this and head looked perfect it took magniflux to find.<BR>3. If you have not flushed the system do so before going any further. Even if the radiator looks clean you can't see the bottom tank/ cylinders- I have had quite a few cars where this simple proceedure solved the over heating.<BR> good luck!

Hi folks,<BR> Just thought I'd share some info some of you may know and others not, but I think very useful none the less. I picked up a 55 Super on hunch as donor for my 56 Roadmaster and I find<BR> The doors on the 55 2dr hdtp and 56 are interchangable only the side trim holes are in different spot, otherwise body lines match,(Hollander books don't specifically tell this)<BR> The floor pans are also interchangable, as well as the trunk floor and trunk floor extensions.<BR> all the glass and front and rear stainless trim is same (also note that 54-56 Caddy Coupe front windshield and trim is same)<BR> also the door and quarter window mouldings are the same including door roof flipper.<BR> The radiator support is the same<BR> The gas door is the same<BR> the gas tank is the same<BR> outer skins on quarter panel are the same, but different at the inner part in the tail light area.<BR> vent boxes interchange<BR> Hope that some of you guys find that useful to broaden the range of parts you can use between 55-56 Roadmaster&Super

i can't recall if these have a condenser on the alternator but if it does that may be the trouble. Also check antenna connection for looseness. How about tape deck if has one does hiss only occur with deck?

can you give us more details, ie when its hot,cold,milage,what has or hasn't been replaced to try to correct is the check engine light staying on?.<BR> have you replaced the undercar fuel filter? that often over looked part may be the trouble, also have you checked for correct fuel pressure at the rail? GM in tank pumps start having problems over 120K, does the pump pressurize when you turn key on it should come on briefly when key goes to on position to pressurize line.

Hi,<BR> You might get an approximation by using F=kx(Hookes Law) put an known load on the spring and measure how far it compresses and use F/x=k where F=force(weight) and x=Length change from load which gives spring constant K (which is essentially stiffness) if you do this with them in the car divide the weight by 2 and position weight over which ever set you are trying to find.<BR> Of course if the spring are out this much easier and accurate and the spring shop should be able to determine the k that way.<BR> just a thought

Hi WW,<BR> I have 1956 Buick Dupont color chips and on the back have 52-55 color codes. they show artic white as Dulux # 93-57730. The 56 has cameo beige Dulux # 246-58181. the 53 shows osage cream Dulux # 93-57348-G.<BR> If you want color copies of 56 chart i can make them for you,or B&W copy of the 52-55 list(no color chip just Du Pont #) give address to ship to.<BR> hope that helps

Hey cousin,<BR> here is an off beat thought, I have worked extensively with senior classics such as 31-36 Packard 12 & super8 and have worked on the Stuz as well.and Chrylser Custom Imperial 31-33. Now, being a craftsman I don't have enough to buy and sell those cars even though i work them, but I do keep my eyes open I have learned this:<BR> 1.You are going to hear alot of BULL about what it is worth& it needs this and that.<BR> 2. the guys who aren't interested in buying will usually say its worth this and that and just and unfortunately a an open car of the same class/model is worth much more than a closed car period.<BR> 3. And the guys who are interested are going to chew you down as much as possible.<BR> 4. So after you study everyone's input you will either get some one who REALLY WANTS a 4dr DV-32 or a bunch of tire kickers.<BR> 5. IT IS HARD to get an honest price because alot of guys are looking that deal to turn over, believe me I have worked for people that buy and sell all over.<BR> 6. So put in what you want for a<BR> price and the response you get will tell you if you are in the ball park AND REMEMBER you can always come down but you can't go up. <BR> 7. You may sit on this car for a year or more before you get the price you want.<BR> LASTLY. <BR> You folks,<BR> have beatiful car rare as it may be why not enjoy it. It an engine that will cruise comfortably at todays speed limits and it has Hydaulic brakes the size that some pickup trucks today wished they had. This is car fully well capable of be driven around and enjoyed why not have some fun with it instead?

Hi,<BR> I would be a little leary of going the twelve volt route the points would be ok, you could add a condser, but unless you added a resistor inline to the relay I would not do it. You can figure the size resistor by ohms law: current=voltage/resistance so you would need to find the amperage to the relay by testing it under load with a meter. then the information could be used to find the resistance is series (resistance directly adds) needed.looks like R1=(V-IR2)/I<BR>R1= resistance needed to add, R2 resistance of your relay(measure with meter) V=12volts I= current(measured with 9 volt) resistance in ohms. resistors can bought at Radio shack or auto parts stores.<BR> Other suggestion, carefully and thoroughly clean the dry cell posts of plating with wire brush, clean up correct size brass nuts and connect, then using good electrical grade solder with electric iron solder the nuts and wire to the posts.Use plenty of flux.<BR> Third suggestion try double nutting the connection. <BR> Hope that helps.

hey willbilly,<BR> pretty interesting the floors look solid, when do we get to see the whole Naomi?

Hi Max,<BR> A couple of thoughts if you are inclined to rebuild your own the kits are still available from NAPA, The WCFB units are around the only major difference is the starter switch on the Buicks.<BR> Battery Ignition in Hartford, CT has quite a few parts and complete WCFB's talk to Dan phone is 1-800-767-2950.<BR> If you still have the metal tag it will not only give the part number but also the year and design change ex: in the small boxes on the tag a B6 would mean 1956 and design change B<BR> good luck!

Hi all,<BR> took a break form the Buick Club to see what else AACA has, so I also have 1929 Larrabee model 40 2 ton flatbed truck (made in Binghamton,NY 1915-1930) looking for a rear axle unit-it is a Brown-Lipe Gear Co. unit and I'm positive same axle was under International Trucks and probably others too.<BR> In lieu of camera here is best description I can give:<BR> Length between backing plates at brake backing plate to axle housing flange-47.5"<BR> Axle housing flange outside diameter at brake backing plate 6&1/2" <BR> cover plate bolt circle-11&3/8"<BR> Gear carrier mounting flange to axle housing outside diameter-12&1/4"<BR> Gear carrier length from mounting flange to pinion shaft end(where drive shaft flange is)-12&3/4" (this has the enclosed U-joints simliar to 31-33 Chrylser Imperials)<BR> In the top of the gear carrier there is two bolt flange that provides access to adjust pinion and lock the adjusting ring-(similar to some early Nash axles)<BR> The axle housing has sqaure tube cross section and is 3&1/2" square at the spring pads.<BR> The axle shafts are coarse 10 spline where they fit to differentail they are 4" along the taper for the hubs with 1" shaft at the threads. ( I forget the correct classification ie floating etc) but the weight of wheel is supported at outer ends by dual tapered roller bearings.<BR> MARKINGS:<BR> Stamped in top of axle housing above gear carrier: 36073 35 F 29<BR> cast in axle housing next to carrier on vertical face V-263 and 6-5<BR> On carrier:<BR> stamped along top of mounting flange<BR> B-41-8-5 4-29 (suspect 4-29 may be date)<BR> Cast on vertical face of mounting flange looking to truck from front on the left is cast 1 on the right is V-290<BR> on the carrier top along pinion housing area is cast 7-24 and patent applied for.<BR> ADDITIONAL info; <BR> The housing itself appears to be a single casting,it has four slightly raised oval bosses on vertical face (maybe sprue and riser from casting process) there is brake line mounting boss (small raised circular cross section) 12&1/2" from a backing plate this is on a vertical face.<BR> Also there are casting identifiers small square with four tangent circles inside one on the housing one on the carrier.<BR> Uses 7 spoke 20" iron spoke wheels with MEL stamped in each spoke. The rims are demountable from spoke. The spokes bolt to hub with 7 bolts in a ~6&1/4" pattern. spokes are oval cross section and about 3" form hub to rim.<BR> Also looking for Radiator shell must be rust free painted ok.<BR> Also literature on the truck<BR>What I will pay:<BR> Axle $200w/backing plate no wheels, $275 w/wheels. Must be good condition not heavily pitted, must be good ring and pinion,would request to see first If near CT or GOOD pictures of housing and GEARS. i allready have bad gears don't need another<BR> <BR>radiator shell will pay $100 but must be absolutely clean for that price.<BR> I am in Westbrook CT would drive to following to see NY, PA, ME, MA, VT, NH, NJ.<BR> E-mail to wilebill@att.net please put RE: larrabee so I don't think it is junk mail Thanks!<BR> And yes i'm going to post on truck sites as well.<BR> I think this should be decriptive enough to get us going! I will send a regular picture to you first so we can verify if you think you have one Thanks

Johan,Mark<BR> Just FYI in future, start with a place that works with tractor trailer trucks, there are any number of spring shops in any place that can do this work just a little walk in the business section of phone book

I agree Buick Nut this is a luxury and what you've said is true and well founded.<BR>I know because in the past I have had to give up (cars) to take care of life's necessities that's just how the chips fall.

Hi<BR> if thats got the mechanical unit you probably did deform the gauge mechanism a little resulting in a zero offset condition...do you notice it not going all the way back to low when cool? that would be another confirmation.<BR> If is electrical you may have ruined the sender, such that its resistance is now changed a little.<BR> Why not substitute in a known good temp gauge just to be sure!

Do you mean that the unrestored picture is not even his car???<BR>oops never mind I get you the this is what it looks picture, <BR> Well, Lets say he got past the fact of soliciting you don't even give credit to those helping, that has further ruined his credibility.<BR> This is real slap at the rest of us who all bite the bullet and still do what we can on our own.<P>[ 05-13-2002: Message edited by: Scott W. Taylor ]<p>[ 05-13-2002: Message edited by: Scott W. Taylor ]

Hi,<BR> The bulb usually has some low boiling point liquid such as alcohol or freon. The bulb is the liquid reservoir. As water heats up it heats the bulb causing some liquid to vaporize to gas thus increasing pressure in the small capilary line and the bourdon tube(the part of the system connected to the gauge) the increased pressure causes the tube to move cand through a little linkage move temp gauge, since the system volume is small it is very responsive. <BR> The bad news is the little capillary tube is easy to break at the bulb or at gauge.Once broke all fluid vaporizes.<BR> Good news is there are people in Hemmings under services offered who can repair this.<BR> Oh one more thing about the breaking the tube is small and sometimes of brass which gets brittle with age, if steel it gets rusty in which case "sneezing" on it can break it--- so don't go to hard on your mechanic!!

Hi,<BR> 1.Try NAPA if you know the correct number chances are they may have it, you'll be suprised how much stuff you can still get<BR>2. Swap meets there are thousands of 2bbl rochesters rebuildable for $5 just have the number memorized or with you next time you go<BR>3. Call Battery Ignition in Hartford CT 800-767-2950 talk with Dan or his father they have alot of old stock early as far back as 1920's they are reasonable.<BR>4. My opinion on $250 if its NOS or redone that way with correct plating etc, its probably in the ball park pricewise<p>[ 05-11-2002: Message edited by: Scott W. Taylor ]

Yep,<BR> I Myself am back college and I'll donate the hundred I saved for a brake kit for my car....Hold your breath. like many other guys here I'm sure i did my part for this country too with long hours for six years in stinky submarine no rewards didn't expect it.....NO YOUR ON YOUR OWN PAL!!!

hey billy<BR> take this for what it is worth. I have done alot of work on high end classic like 30-33 Chrysler Imperials and Senior Packards most of them fetch over $100,000. I'll tell you this just like a good paint job ANY I MEAN ANY imperfections are going show like a sore thumb if they aren't addressed at step 1, this means grinding marks, pits, scratches etc. these should all be sanded out first which a good shop will do. <BR> When you look a chrome look at it on an oblique angle and turn it in the light if its not right (just like paint thats not sanded properly) you will see ripples, flat spots and waves, even though the shine is great.<BR> Of cousre the better the job the higher the price because of the labor. next time you at a show look carefully at chrome jobs a little study you'll see whats good and what's not.