56Roadmaster

Rich, Always glad to help if we can. The red head is all painted and ready to set on. So then it will just be a matter of starting and break in.

Ok guys, Last time I was looking to see if there were such designs as rotary valves, because I was trying to design some, I got as far as making a brass model. Well apparently this company has done exactly what I was intending. Visit this site it is almost unbelievable http://www.coatesengine.com They have some really good pictures of their design.

Gene, Thank you and thank you not....sort of. I have been working on the very same design of my own, but my "valves" only difference I can see is the spherical surface, and port design. I am not nearly as far along. But any way that is SO COOL to see that it has actaully been done.!!!

Perhaps it was made as a staff car? Looking at it the body lines look as though it was grafted to extend enough for another set of seats.

Hi Rich, You always seem to forget we too are still working on the 29 model 75, why don't you check with Ed. eperk49545@aol.com Perhaps the winshield posts are similar. Scott

Rebuilt Studebaker 6cyl 169 inch engine. Block #52480711 date F 11 12. Should fit 41-53 champ. originally from 52 champ car sold for street rod. Engine was professionally rebuilt, never run, comes with manifolds and carb, gen, starter, coil, fuel pump, water pump. $600.00 Located in Killingworth CT. Email wilebill@att.net

192? probably 21or 22 Star chasis with engine, tranny, axles, engine turns over, has accessories, but distributor housing rotted, have another distributor housing which may be usable $500.00 Located in killingworth, CT Email wilebill@att.net

1952 Desoto 2dr sedan, 6cylinder, 3spd, odemeter reads 38429 probably 138429. Body in primer,very solid,and straight, good frame, needs chrome work, good street rod candidate, fire wall data body =12, paint=374(meduim metallic green) trim= 221 sched=101 body No. 3352. Engine model S15. Engine is stuck, needs manifold set. Otherwise car is complete.$850.00 obo. Located in killingworth,CT Email wilebill@att.net

Geez Dan!! I thought you said that car needed work....what are you talking about???!!!! NICE!!!

OK! Thanks a million guys! you have given me the exact explanation I am looking for. So unless I install a regulator I probably will not reach a happy meduim, and if I do install a regulator I should be sure the genrator is set not to exceed rated output. Ken you brought up an interesting point about the bulb wattages, I will check that and calculate it out to see if the draw coincides with the amperage drop. Thanks guys.

Hi Dan, Welcome on board. It's nice to see someone else with the next closest thing to 56 Roadmasters. I can tell you from doing my own work, 56's are not easy to get parts for. The Roadmaster and Super share just about everything but the name, they are the only two that sheet metal intechanges with. 55 Super/ Roadmaster doors and glass interchange as well as trunk floors, floor pans and braces, (the doors just have the trim in a different spot so you have to weld up the holes) Also the front windshield trim and windshield is shared with 54-56 caddy coupe/conv. A lot of parts are still available from NAPA and others. But one thing I'll give you right of the bat is the power brake booster repair kit (GM) # 5455147 These power brakes are 1 year ONLY, It took me along time (2years) to find the kit. Cars Inc. of New Jersey has a couple left. I have the complete 1956 chasis and body parts book from GM, so if you need any part #'s let know. I have also been able to locate a good many suppliers for 56's Good luck with your '56! BTW where is your attached Pics

Stude8, Yes, I would expect that charge to go down a little with the lights on. But did you have problems with the battery boiling at 15 amps during day time driving?

Hi all, Here are the facts: Car; 31 Ford A. Standard 3 brush generator. Condition; good brushes,commutator surface, bearings, belt is new and correctly tensioned, New battery fully charged and load/cell test ok, Brand New Echlin cut out. Wiring harness very good condition no known shorts, battery terminals clean/tight at both ends. PROBLEM: generator does not charge correctly with the lights on. I have adjusted the third (field) brush to obtain 8 amps charging at cruising speed (35 mph) when I turn the head lights on they are bright, but I show a discharge of 3-4 amps. I checked this by temporarily installing a digital amp meter in place of the anolog (stock) in dash one so I know the readings are accurate. I have to adjust the generator brush to get about 18 amps before the charge rate even hits zero when the lights are turned on. I don't want to fry the new battery.what could be causing the desparity? What is the usual amperage drawn by the lights on a Model A? Thanks for the help in advance

Frank, I am not sure about the other two pushrods, but I have a large stock of NOS sealed power pushrods, of various sizes and shapes. If you are interested we may be able to match you up some. Email privately wilebill@att.net

Mike, Desoto Frank is right on, The only major problem you might have is the rubber parts,in the fuel pump, but if it has been sitting why not get a new neoprene diaphram put in any way. (diaphram is probably deteriorated frome age any how)

Yep, I agree with Stude8 and the others. It is possible that the CAUSE of your voltage drop is the starter drawing to much, this can be as simple as the rotor end bushings worn or dry, (I know they are oil impregenated, but it has been my experience that the oil combines with dust from the brushes over the years and makes a paste with high drag). Also dust fron the brushes can cause short circuits to the ground. Clean the starter out and add a small dab of bearing grease to the bushing, check to see if it is worn which allows the rotor to drag on the field coils. Other wise have the starter load tested by a local electrical shop capable of that kind of work, they can tell if there is short in the windings or armature(rotor). As for the fuel business that is absolutely a bucch of horse feathers. Kerosense has even lower volitililty, adding kerosnse will lower the flame velocity, lower BTU (heating) value( It is the heating value which drives the engines of the cars we all love lower BTU's=lower power),lower the reistance to spark knock, increase formation of carbon soot thus the possibility of smoking and fouling spark plugs. ( I just recently finished a study on this for some my mechanical engineering degree work). Good luck!!!

Hi Ledru, With the milage in mind, I would check the alternator brushes, they are likely worn to the point where they are not making good contact, or it is possible that the voltage regulator is bad it is inside the alternator. Rebuild kits are available. The amperage rating is stamped on the alternator housing. A quick check! connect a volt meter to battery note the reading with car off, should be around 12v start the car and check the reading should now be 13.5v-14v this should be the same with all lights on, heater motor etc. lower than 13v would indicate faulty alt. Also check your ground wires under the hood, i.e. battery to block, block ro fire wall, and clean them as they can somtimes oxidize.

Hi Bill, I think from your picture that tractor looks like other items such as the sterring wheel is dodge as well. The engine looks (though hard to see) like my 1946 dodge truck engine. The IND would indicate "Industrial" I know they used those Chrysler engines, in car, truck, and industrial, with various displacements. I know that engine goes back to at least 1941, but I think it was developed in the late 30's. I would say that based on an engine that could be back as far the 1940's, but they made that flat head for industrial use, well into the 1960's. Though the general appearence on the unit looks like late 40's early 50's.

Hey Carleton, Do you still have a copy of the Dykes manual? you said to email you which I did a couple times, i am still interested- email me. Thanks

John, I was in fact thinking of WP Chrysler. I learned something from you I did not know about Nash! Thanks

Hi Here is fun fun question which may surprise some of you. Who was an instrumental figure in getting Buick division production into high gear? Hint: later to be a rival.

Hi Rich, On the engine Super glossy would be too much, Paint should be above a semi-gloss, but say like a shine you would get from a Rustoleum high gloss, not like a mirror.The engines were painted as cast. For the frame high gloss would be appropriate/correct, and it should be smooth in the area that show i.e. where you can look under the fenders, rear housing etc. Mind you that, all thought these frame were painted over the bare metal they had a nice finish/ shine, it would not be inappropriate to use some filler to cover rust pitting, on parts that show, of course doing this on the frame parts where the body sits, or other hidden areas is a waste of time and money. As for the dulling of your gloss talk to supplier for some flattening agents. Hope that helps.

Ok, Thanks for the leads guys. It had a solid bell housing mount with a single through bolt, much like the modern SAE type bell housings for industrial equipment.

Well, I did it again hauled in another hulk not fit for use, It is a 26? or there abouts Buick chasis that has been over turned for many years at the far end of and old junkyard, we had to haul it out by small tractor. I could not get the torque tube off the tranny and had to pull the back of the tranny (mainshaft etc) to seperate the engine/trans. I removed the six torque tube bolts and then figured that was wrong so I then removed the 4 futher back still won't come apart. suggestions? Also how can year be ID'd I have engine and frame tags still, not sure if firewall tage is there as it is mangled. This has seperate starter and generator/distributor, the head light buckets (what's left) appear to be drum design.

Ok, I've never had a problem doing it that way myself, If you were to measure the actual distortion with a strain gauge you would find it is on the order of micro-inches. Happy motoring.