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Everything posted by 56Roadmaster

  1. Oldmitchell, I would say you probably want to go to someone particularly familiar with engine dynamic balancing. Rememeber that kinectic energy goes up by the SQUARE of velocity, so a little RPM increase induces MUCH MUCH greater stress on the moving components. It would be better to try and add some kind of overdrive or two speed rear. If you are insistent though, you should probably consider reducing the mass of your reciprocating parts, easiest to change would be the pistions to an aluminum alloy,(assumming yours are probably iron or steel) which can be obtained/ made by various specialty companies. Then you would want to have the, flywheel, crank, rods and pistons dynamically balanced, some engine rebuilders can do this. Additonally you must consider your bearing material, the softer grades of babbit of those days will probably not enjoy being hammered on any harder, your should consider a harder grade or having even inserts installed, as well as upgrading the oiling system to meet increased lubrication demands. To do it right you can see you would be getting into quite a rebuild. It is probably worth the expense to avoid severly damaging bearings, crank and block.
  2. I'll also cast a vote for BUICK, 25-27, Buick so closely resembled Packard in those years that Packard brought a lawsuit against Buick. Check out the yahoo groups for 1927 Buicks, I don't recall the exact web address but I sure you can find it.
  3. OK Frank, I'll give it a try worst, I can do is return it and have the old one resleeved.
  4. Do you have the correct side of the clutch disc against the flywheel (assumming single plate clutch. Release forks correctly positioned?. throw out shaft free of old grease/rust?
  5. Hi Another Desoto question,is there any difference between the master cylinders used on the 51 Desoto and the 49 Plymouth 6 cylinder cars. I have worked on both and the master cylinders look the same. Reason I ask the question is that NAPA lists a cylinder for the plymouth and not the Desoto, but the NAPA picture book shows the what looks like the correct cylinder and my memory seems to say that would work.
  6. Oliver, For lack of information, I will assume you have a 217 (218) cubic inch engine in that plymouth. Most every seal is available from NAPA over here (US) I assume you are looking for rear main seal on your engine? NAPA lists part #JV134-6 for the seal. this also fits the 230, 251 Chrysler (plymouth) engines. You can check www.napaonline.com for a store location. NOTE: the on line catalog will probably NOT list this part you have to get it out the master gasket catlog) NAPA gaskets are supplied by VICTOR gaskets (US manufacturer) you can also try them, search web for Victor gaskets. The six cylinder engines of late 40's -60's were very popular in industrial and truck applications so many parts are still readily supplied. Also for your car NAPA still supplies brake cylinders, electrical parts such as dimmer (dip) switch, horn relay, generator (dynamo) regulator, etc. Happy motoring
  7. Ok Frank I'll take you up on that. How do you obtain 4 speeds out of what appears to be a rev + 3spd pattern? In other words how to drive such tranny, must clutch be used for all shifts? Can we come to stop IN GEAR and then take off since there is a torque converter? We don't have the owner's manual and this is a "new" beast to me. oh also what type fluid to use in torque coverter? tranny? Thanks
  8. Yep, thanks Frank, I did find that the engines are orignal, and the Chrysler is as you say a '50. I guess the '49 lights must be like the '49 Plymouth's. Another question for you: The Chrysler is stuck some how in reverse, We can shift into the nuetral position and it goes to nuetral, but in shifting in to ANY other position it goes into reverse be it 1,2 or 3rd. The reverse lights are on at all times. I have not investigated too far, yet but found what would appear to a broken return spring, on one of the shift shaft arms on the tranny, does this pull the shift fork in away to allow getting in to other gears? Can I fix this without going into tranny?
  9. Ok I have been looking and reading Rich's Post and having done a considerable amount of this kind of work, skin off body and so forth.I would like to say There is something forgotten here. When these cars were made the wood was made from jigs and the factory was not in the business of taking 1,2, or three years to assemble a wood frame. Further the men building the bodies were not some mystical craftsmen, they were for the most part, regular fellows earning their hourly wage and going home at the end the day. From the cutter to the assembler, hundreds pieces cut each shift and assembled, and they were NOT held to tolerances in the thousandths, more like +/- 1/16" or better. Yes, even on the "CLASSIC" Parkard Seniors and the Chrysler Custom Imperial. If you CAREFULLY inspect these bodies, you will see the wood is NOT a perfect fit it some places interfering with the body and in others gaps of 1/4" of more, The wood to wood joints are NOT always tight or perfectly mated. Remeber, this was in all,but exceptional cases MASS PRODUCTION. Body wood work was not rocket science back then nor is it now.
  10. Frank, I kind of figured you would respond as soon as you saw this. It may well be that 49 is a 50 because I am going on what was told to me. I just found our that the 52 Desoto is actually a 51 according to serial # (from one on my old Chilton books). There is no pillar on the Chrysler, so I will check serial #. Thanks for the sheet metal info. To your knowledge in there any one making floor panels, or rocker panels for the Windsor? I will probably make my own, but if there is a GOOD quality repop, It saves time. Thanks
  11. Hi all We now have a 49 Chrysler Winsor hdtp w/spitfire six. and 52 Desoto 2dr sedan six. For both does any one have production #'s for each year. Also good source for chrome pieces, and for the 49 do hoods interchange w/ any other models? also on 49 front frame x member interchanges? The 49 has 38k but unfortunately suffered from being outside. Thanks for any info.
  12. Hi all we are thinking about picking up a 72 riv 455 Th400 family tranny, dual exhaust, power this and that. It came to my friends scrap yard. Paint is faded but buffable, frame good, and we almost got it started but due to plugged tailpipes (from off loading from truck) we ran out of time. what is a reasonable figure for fuel milage (yeah I know its not 30 or even 22) but 10? 15? 18? what areas of the frame (if any) are typical rot spots? what is the most troublesome electrical accessory. Do the floor center braces typically rot (like the 60's A body stuff)? Finally if we could pick it up for $200-$500 what are they worth average? The car is equivalent to a typical used driver, interior is dusty but over all good. Also Production Figures? Thanks
  13. NikeAjax, Yes you must check all clearnaces mains, rods, cam.With all this in mind did you check the condition of pump relief valve spring? A weak or broken spring could do this.How about the pump housing-even with new gears if the housing is worn it may be by passing some oil. Pump end plate to gear clearance correct?-too thick a gasket can cause a bypass as well. Some other thoughts...what about rocker shaft clearances? Did you actaully measure the cam bearing clearnces, noting that cam journals are slightly different diameter front to back. An oil gallery plug loose? Cam shaft retaining plate installed correctly? How about the connecting rods are they install the rightway on the crank? Yes, you can have engine run if they are oriented wrong, which could cause excessive oil flow at the rod bearings. Start with simple first check the pump spring
  14. Rich, Always glad to help if we can. The red head is all painted and ready to set on. So then it will just be a matter of starting and break in.
  15. Ok guys, Last time I was looking to see if there were such designs as rotary valves, because I was trying to design some, I got as far as making a brass model. Well apparently this company has done exactly what I was intending. Visit this site it is almost unbelievable http://www.coatesengine.com They have some really good pictures of their design.
  16. Gene, Thank you and thank you not....sort of. I have been working on the very same design of my own, but my "valves" only difference I can see is the spherical surface, and port design. I am not nearly as far along. But any way that is SO COOL to see that it has actaully been done.!!!
  17. Perhaps it was made as a staff car? Looking at it the body lines look as though it was grafted to extend enough for another set of seats.
  18. Hi Rich, You always seem to forget we too are still working on the 29 model 75, why don't you check with Ed. eperk49545@aol.com Perhaps the winshield posts are similar. Scott
  19. Rebuilt Studebaker 6cyl 169 inch engine. Block #52480711 date F 11 12. Should fit 41-53 champ. originally from 52 champ car sold for street rod. Engine was professionally rebuilt, never run, comes with manifolds and carb, gen, starter, coil, fuel pump, water pump. $600.00 Located in Killingworth CT. Email wilebill@att.net
  20. 192? probably 21or 22 Star chasis with engine, tranny, axles, engine turns over, has accessories, but distributor housing rotted, have another distributor housing which may be usable $500.00 Located in killingworth, CT Email wilebill@att.net
  21. 1952 Desoto 2dr sedan, 6cylinder, 3spd, odemeter reads 38429 probably 138429. Body in primer,very solid,and straight, good frame, needs chrome work, good street rod candidate, fire wall data body =12, paint=374(meduim metallic green) trim= 221 sched=101 body No. 3352. Engine model S15. Engine is stuck, needs manifold set. Otherwise car is complete.$850.00 obo. Located in killingworth,CT Email wilebill@att.net
  22. Geez Dan!! I thought you said that car needed work....what are you talking about???!!!! NICE!!!
  23. OK! Thanks a million guys! you have given me the exact explanation I am looking for. So unless I install a regulator I probably will not reach a happy meduim, and if I do install a regulator I should be sure the genrator is set not to exceed rated output. Ken you brought up an interesting point about the bulb wattages, I will check that and calculate it out to see if the draw coincides with the amperage drop. Thanks guys.
  24. Hi Dan, Welcome on board. It's nice to see someone else with the next closest thing to 56 Roadmasters. I can tell you from doing my own work, 56's are not easy to get parts for. The Roadmaster and Super share just about everything but the name, they are the only two that sheet metal intechanges with. 55 Super/ Roadmaster doors and glass interchange as well as trunk floors, floor pans and braces, (the doors just have the trim in a different spot so you have to weld up the holes) Also the front windshield trim and windshield is shared with 54-56 caddy coupe/conv. A lot of parts are still available from NAPA and others. But one thing I'll give you right of the bat is the power brake booster repair kit (GM) # 5455147 These power brakes are 1 year ONLY, It took me along time (2years) to find the kit. Cars Inc. of New Jersey has a couple left. I have the complete 1956 chasis and body parts book from GM, so if you need any part #'s let know. I have also been able to locate a good many suppliers for 56's Good luck with your '56! BTW where is your attached Pics
  25. Stude8, Yes, I would expect that charge to go down a little with the lights on. But did you have problems with the battery boiling at 15 amps during day time driving?
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