56Roadmaster

Is it possible what they a calling width is what you are callling thicknes?, Also if everything else is right (length, daimeter etc.) why not just have the new shaft remachined? just make sure of the hardness before machining.

Thanks Adam, I guess I should just go that route, the one on the 430 is moulded such that the grommet that would normally fit in the valve cover is actaully part of the tube, there is not metal pipe. BTW that web site seems pretty cool.

Hi all, I need a source for the rubber tube that mounts in the passenger side valve cover and goes to the PCV filter in the air cleaner housing. It is for the '69 430 in my 83 "Begal" Thanks

That's got the little metal band that anchors the pads to the caliper, sometimes they do get a little rusty, in any case usually they require more force than your hand can deliver. I usually bend the tabs out since the new pads come with their own. Sometimes even then you have to pry on the pad between caliper and top of pad. while you are there make sure you install the new retainer clip on the inboard pad (holds pad in the piston) Also make sure pistons aren't binding in the caliper. 83 "Begal" hmmm...nice car

Hi Ken, On the oil pressure problem, It may be possoble that the higher viscosity oil is affecting your pressure. With the 20-50 you have the equilvalent to 50 weight oil at operating temp. (there a special polymer chains which "uncoil" as the oil warms up to increase dynamic viscosity) It may be possible that the oil does not flow back fast enough on a down grade. Other possiblities: If your pan has an internal baffle, it is possible it has come loose. On the relief valve, test the spring with a suitable device to see if it is weak. Good Luck

Yep, I went through this last year Brad, I have the 56 master parts book, and there is a cam, solid lifters and pushrods that have to go with it. Also there are higher CR pistons that go with it. I have the original part #'s but my book is not handy at the moment. Although, they are rare, $305 sounds high if it is rockers only, because you need the other components to make it work right. i am still looking (luke warmly) for the complete set up. OH I see you said adjustable PUSH ROD, the parts book for 56 322 lists only adjustable rockers.

If you just hone cylinders, polish the crank, and regrind existing valves, figure on $500-$800(if you do the labor) for rings, bearings, gaskets, valve grind. but then too, you need to make sure your crank and cylinders are true enough for back yard job. Price for valves ~$12-15 each If you plan on having some one else do the work you shoud go all the way. Felpro gaskets makes the complete gasket set, grant makes the piston rings, I am not sure who supplies bearings, If you know the brands then you don't have to go the "Rip-off I mean Restoration supply houses" you can go to your regular parts jobber and order direct, I bet you were quoted about $2800-3000 for a like new job Good luck

Ok, We had one left over rod I looked at the other day (from 28 Ply) It is not welded, and does have cast babbit. sounds like some one else might have tried to make up a rod.

We have worked 4 28-29 Plymouths in the last two years and I don't rememeber seeing any welded rods and they were poured babbit. I would not trust a welded rod unless you had them heat treated and x-rayed, we have some extra rods I think but would have look again.

Guy, I think the main key is the high ratio axle, since the 430 develops a significant amount of torque at the low end it does not need to rev high. I need to change the axle in my 83 Regal,which I put a 69 430 into. Unfortunately I am at ~2500RPM @ 65mph and the milage is down around 14mpg highway. I think proper RPM should be ~1800 @ 65mph in order to bring up the milage. This is on a rebuilt(to stock specs) with the addition of the GM electronic emissions controls system (carburated). I suppose I could put in a 200R4 but I like the TH 425 tranny.

Congratulations always a "high" to get your favorite project going. It's hard to tell when exhaust is off, but a sharp clicking is a lifter while a deep rapping is a rod. your car sound like what I am working on, LOTS of work but OH SOOOH FUN!!!

There is a Cummins diesel engine color that is pretty close, check a local dealer.

Oldmitchell, I would say you probably want to go to someone particularly familiar with engine dynamic balancing. Rememeber that kinectic energy goes up by the SQUARE of velocity, so a little RPM increase induces MUCH MUCH greater stress on the moving components. It would be better to try and add some kind of overdrive or two speed rear. If you are insistent though, you should probably consider reducing the mass of your reciprocating parts, easiest to change would be the pistions to an aluminum alloy,(assumming yours are probably iron or steel) which can be obtained/ made by various specialty companies. Then you would want to have the, flywheel, crank, rods and pistons dynamically balanced, some engine rebuilders can do this. Additonally you must consider your bearing material, the softer grades of babbit of those days will probably not enjoy being hammered on any harder, your should consider a harder grade or having even inserts installed, as well as upgrading the oiling system to meet increased lubrication demands. To do it right you can see you would be getting into quite a rebuild. It is probably worth the expense to avoid severly damaging bearings, crank and block.

I'll also cast a vote for BUICK, 25-27, Buick so closely resembled Packard in those years that Packard brought a lawsuit against Buick. Check out the yahoo groups for 1927 Buicks, I don't recall the exact web address but I sure you can find it.

OK Frank, I'll give it a try worst, I can do is return it and have the old one resleeved.

Do you have the correct side of the clutch disc against the flywheel (assumming single plate clutch. Release forks correctly positioned?. throw out shaft free of old grease/rust?

Hi Another Desoto question,is there any difference between the master cylinders used on the 51 Desoto and the 49 Plymouth 6 cylinder cars. I have worked on both and the master cylinders look the same. Reason I ask the question is that NAPA lists a cylinder for the plymouth and not the Desoto, but the NAPA picture book shows the what looks like the correct cylinder and my memory seems to say that would work.

Oliver, For lack of information, I will assume you have a 217 (218) cubic inch engine in that plymouth. Most every seal is available from NAPA over here (US) I assume you are looking for rear main seal on your engine? NAPA lists part #JV134-6 for the seal. this also fits the 230, 251 Chrysler (plymouth) engines. You can check www.napaonline.com for a store location. NOTE: the on line catalog will probably NOT list this part you have to get it out the master gasket catlog) NAPA gaskets are supplied by VICTOR gaskets (US manufacturer) you can also try them, search web for Victor gaskets. The six cylinder engines of late 40's -60's were very popular in industrial and truck applications so many parts are still readily supplied. Also for your car NAPA still supplies brake cylinders, electrical parts such as dimmer (dip) switch, horn relay, generator (dynamo) regulator, etc. Happy motoring

Ok Frank I'll take you up on that. How do you obtain 4 speeds out of what appears to be a rev + 3spd pattern? In other words how to drive such tranny, must clutch be used for all shifts? Can we come to stop IN GEAR and then take off since there is a torque converter? We don't have the owner's manual and this is a "new" beast to me. oh also what type fluid to use in torque coverter? tranny? Thanks

Yep, thanks Frank, I did find that the engines are orignal, and the Chrysler is as you say a '50. I guess the '49 lights must be like the '49 Plymouth's. Another question for you: The Chrysler is stuck some how in reverse, We can shift into the nuetral position and it goes to nuetral, but in shifting in to ANY other position it goes into reverse be it 1,2 or 3rd. The reverse lights are on at all times. I have not investigated too far, yet but found what would appear to a broken return spring, on one of the shift shaft arms on the tranny, does this pull the shift fork in away to allow getting in to other gears? Can I fix this without going into tranny?

Ok I have been looking and reading Rich's Post and having done a considerable amount of this kind of work, skin off body and so forth.I would like to say There is something forgotten here. When these cars were made the wood was made from jigs and the factory was not in the business of taking 1,2, or three years to assemble a wood frame. Further the men building the bodies were not some mystical craftsmen, they were for the most part, regular fellows earning their hourly wage and going home at the end the day. From the cutter to the assembler, hundreds pieces cut each shift and assembled, and they were NOT held to tolerances in the thousandths, more like +/- 1/16" or better. Yes, even on the "CLASSIC" Parkard Seniors and the Chrysler Custom Imperial. If you CAREFULLY inspect these bodies, you will see the wood is NOT a perfect fit it some places interfering with the body and in others gaps of 1/4" of more, The wood to wood joints are NOT always tight or perfectly mated. Remeber, this was in all,but exceptional cases MASS PRODUCTION. Body wood work was not rocket science back then nor is it now.

Frank, I kind of figured you would respond as soon as you saw this. It may well be that 49 is a 50 because I am going on what was told to me. I just found our that the 52 Desoto is actually a 51 according to serial # (from one on my old Chilton books). There is no pillar on the Chrysler, so I will check serial #. Thanks for the sheet metal info. To your knowledge in there any one making floor panels, or rocker panels for the Windsor? I will probably make my own, but if there is a GOOD quality repop, It saves time. Thanks

Hi all We now have a 49 Chrysler Winsor hdtp w/spitfire six. and 52 Desoto 2dr sedan six. For both does any one have production #'s for each year. Also good source for chrome pieces, and for the 49 do hoods interchange w/ any other models? also on 49 front frame x member interchanges? The 49 has 38k but unfortunately suffered from being outside. Thanks for any info.

Hi all we are thinking about picking up a 72 riv 455 Th400 family tranny, dual exhaust, power this and that. It came to my friends scrap yard. Paint is faded but buffable, frame good, and we almost got it started but due to plugged tailpipes (from off loading from truck) we ran out of time. what is a reasonable figure for fuel milage (yeah I know its not 30 or even 22) but 10? 15? 18? what areas of the frame (if any) are typical rot spots? what is the most troublesome electrical accessory. Do the floor center braces typically rot (like the 60's A body stuff)? Finally if we could pick it up for $200-$500 what are they worth average? The car is equivalent to a typical used driver, interior is dusty but over all good. Also Production Figures? Thanks

NikeAjax, Yes you must check all clearnaces mains, rods, cam.With all this in mind did you check the condition of pump relief valve spring? A weak or broken spring could do this.How about the pump housing-even with new gears if the housing is worn it may be by passing some oil. Pump end plate to gear clearance correct?-too thick a gasket can cause a bypass as well. Some other thoughts...what about rocker shaft clearances? Did you actaully measure the cam bearing clearnces, noting that cam journals are slightly different diameter front to back. An oil gallery plug loose? Cam shaft retaining plate installed correctly? How about the connecting rods are they install the rightway on the crank? Yes, you can have engine run if they are oriented wrong, which could cause excessive oil flow at the rod bearings. Start with simple first check the pump spring