56Roadmaster

Hoooey, Your father's car?!! that's neat, is it still a driver?

Frank's right, We had a set relined by the brake place,which is actually Brake and Equipment warehouse 455 harrison St Northeast, Minneapolis MN 55413-2408 all that info on web that Frank gave, and If I recall it was $35/set that is $70 total for the car! how can you beat that + the piece of mind of having ajob done right with fresh bonding or rivets. They also do nice work on sleeving fast turn around, NAPA also sells wheel cylinders and kits for that car. Car was 51 Desoto s-15 we also have a 50 windsor 6 banger Good luck

Try Benchwick's Look in Hemmings under services offered they were able to get parts for my 1946 Brockway Truck, and by the way try Zenith fuel systems they are still in business, and that is where Benchwick's got my kit.

Yep, my mistake that was fordee9r who drilled the holes. I am surprised that you could not achieve a wheel lock (although skidding actually actually has a lower coefficient of friction and thus it takes longer to bring the car to a stop: hence the reason for anti-lock brakes)by that adjustment I can get that on all the cars I mentioned having done.

Rich, My two cents, I agree with JB-ed and fordee9r, don't waste your time on the Miller tool, there are much simpler and equally as satisfactory ways to adjust those brakes, I have done it on (3) 1928 model Q Plymouths, '32 Custom Imperial, 29 Model 75, 46 Dodge dump truck GVW 13,500lb (which I have registered commercial and it often has a load of 3 tons on and will stop on a dime), 49 plymouth, 51 Desoto. Jb eds slotting is a great idea, in fact the 32 Custom Imperial (all 31, 32 and 33) have built in slot with a metal cover screwed on to drum, my 46 truck also has factory slots (not covered) the only thing that would be really important is to drill (round) the ends of the slot as this prevents a stress point from which a crack can grow, As far the heat issue, that is negligible, I would be more concerned when putting a heavy coat of paint on the drum. Here is the simplest and an accurate way to get proper brake adjustment. 1.) back off shoe adjusting cams (top).2.) bring BOTH anchor pins to adjust them to get the shoe heel at minimum extension (farthest from the drum).3.) Make a punch mark on the anchor pins on the back side of each for reference ( or you can slot them for using a screw driver to turn, I have seen both, and some will have arrows too). 4.) Install the drum and start with one anchor pin and adjust it until the shoe drags lightly and then back off just a hair, note your reference mark, take the drum off, and tighten the anchor pin lock while holding the anchor pin. 5.) do the same for the other shoe. 6.) with the anchors adjusted and the drum on, adjust the shoe toes, by turning the adjustment cams, turning from the top (12 o'clock to 3 or 9) down brings the shoe out, move out until the shoe drags and then back off a hair. you are done, should take you less than 15 min/wheel. Drag, what I mean is a full contact drag that is the drum isn't just hitting some high spot, making a shhinng----shhinng ----shhinng as you spin, but a steady constant drag, not enough to lock it though, In fact when you are done some slight high spot noise is ok, because that will wear in, in fact 9 times out of ten if adjust the brakes to have no noise you will find your pedal low. PS be sure you have the master cylinder rod adjusted right so it gives about 1" free play at the foot pad, you may have to go a little less to get a good pedal to compensate for worn clevis pin / loose pedal bushing. Forget the fancy tool , A liitle common sense will go a long way

Rich I had good luck with Brake and equipment warehouse (800) 233-4053 They are at 455 Harrison St. Minneapolis, MN 55413-2408 ask to speak with Rob. They have done alot of work for Ed on his Chrysler brakes and I just had some done for a 51 Desoto, sleeve and reline, they do good work. website: info@brakeplace.com the prices are very reasonable. For those stepped cylinders they should be availble at NAPA still, you have to match them up in the NAPA buyers guide. Another source is Northwestern Auto supply Inc. (616) 241-5611 or (800)704-1078 they are at 1101 S. Division Grand rapids, MI 49507 Happy Hunting. PS FYI the method of attaching the new linings to the shoe: either rivets or boding is equally strong and durable.

Hi All, I have been working on a '32 Custom Imp. Conv coupe for a fellow out here. where can we find pictures of the 1932 car shows which may have introduced this body syle, we are trying to find out if this car was the car that introduced the conv coupe body style for that year.Thanks

Hi Rich, The forward shoe will (in your Lockheed system) wear somewhat faster do to what is called self-energizing. The forces in the brake drum tend to PULL the shoe in to the drum on the shoe that expanding in the direction of rotation (forward shoe) and PUSH the shoe away from the drum on the shoe that is expanding opposite to direction of rotation (rear shoe) That being said the Lockheed brakes were later modified to have a stepped wheel cylinder and/or a primary and secondary shoe. with the smaller piston and/or shorter brake lining being installed on the self-energizing side. Bendix did a really slick deal with their arrangement which caused both shoes to be self energizing, the basic idea still used in today's drum systems. Don't worry about trying to improve what you have though, as long as the cylinders are good and linings good and true, they will last 10's of 1,000's of miles. ....OH but are they a pain in the rump to adjust

Well, I agree about the abuse theory, I don't think those engines can take the max Rated RPM. I have alot of experience with the Pontiac 326-389-400 engines of the 60's which are similar (as far a bore stroke) never pushed them above 4,800 RPM.(except maybe when over 130MPH) As for the story of the 140MPH Riv. I would believe it I owned several 66 Tempest's with 3.23 gears and both would wrap the speedo well beyond 120 headed back towards zero which was a least 130 MPH, but boy do those cars FLOAT at that speed !! You'd really had to pay attention!

Everything you need still avialble through NAPA including pistons, I did my 430 over 2 years ago, about $800.00 in parts that was including pistons, with some machine work (did not have it bored) was total at $1200.

Rich, Now you are carrying on the tradition of WPC, I had the good fortune to read his autobiography, he talks about his first experience with a car, he bought a 190? Welch, completely disassembled it BEFORE ever driving it, to study it. Then when he put it together and started to drive he couldn't control it and ran down the neighbors fence and yard. .... At least you did not wreck a fence!

Packard V-8 you are absolutely right, I stand corrected on having the steering box slightly off center. For the reason of the worm center, and also limiting the turn in one direction.

I think a sturdy car, much of the design similiar to the old 'A' body GM's of the 60's. Most parts interchange with Olds Cutlass (doors), most mechanical parts frame also with Gran Prix. Parts still abundant, although some heavy duty suspension parts such as center drag link are getting harder to find. frames usually rot along back most rails, many of these are staring to have fuel tank problems-rust at seams. 3.8L v-6 very durable and was/has been around a long time. Most needed service parts are available at Dealer or aftermatket such as NAPA.

I think there is a plastic spacer that belongs there, thats why you see the rod as being too short, many of those type parts may be found at auto parts stores on those HELP brand racks.

Piero, It is very possible that the steering wheel was respositioned at one time to ensure it was straight when the car was going staight- this is a practice by many repair shops. There should be not problem having the steering box off center w/ slightly diiferent rodlengths. Toe in the wheels should be slightly toed in (greater distance at rear, vs. front) 1/16 sounds good, the wheels will shimmy if too much toe in and wear fast they will also shimmy if toed out. Here is how you should check: Disconnect the linkage at the pitman arm. Now turn the steering wheel one way to full lock position. Then turn it all the way the other way to lock COUNT the turns, then bring it back half those turns, this puts the steering box it the center, and now you can see who's right (the wheel or the tie rods)

Picture is a little unclear, those look like a Chrysler product, they look like what we have in 28 Plymouth Q.

Rich, That is precisely why you should finish up that "77" and drive IT everyday and sell off all the newer stuff. When I was in highschool not too long ago (class of 1987) My 1931 Ford r/s coupe was my daily driver regular CT registration, and we used to go all over, It had high enough rear axle to go 55 all day, once we piled 7 of us in it, I thought we would flip on one corner once because my 200lb buddy was in the outside of the curve in the r/s. I bought the car in complete body off basket condition, and spent the next year getting it going, I drove it the last half on my senior year, and to the next year when i wnet in to the Navy. The '29 model 75 at our shop is comming along too, the red head you sold ED is on the engine and looks good.

Indiana parts truck, probably late twenties,long wheel base, six cylinder, has cowl, frame and all running gear, very rough, but major parts salvageable, no radiator, part of hood. Located in Moodus, CT $600.00 delivery in CT possible for additional $150.00 e-mail wilebill@att.net

Studebaker 169 inch 6 cyl engine originally from 52 Champion, block casting #52480711 date F 11 12.(should fit 41-53) Engine is professionally rebuilt, car was sold for street rod project. Never run, comes with head, good manifolds, carb (carter WE), starter, generator, coil & bracket, fuel pump,new water pump. missing valve covers, distributor, flex plate. located in Moodus, CT. Will deliver in CT E-pictures on request Email wilebill@att.net

Ken, Some of those old carburators have a set screw that goes in from the outer body which holds the venturi in place, usually a small affair which is sometimes sometimes beat up (from previuos attempts). In the event that you break the venturi, besides finding another, or having one machined, you can usaully make a lasting sucessful repair with an metal epoxy kit, such as JB Weld, just be sure to clean the joint thoroughly. I have had long lasting repairs in service on '31 Ford as well as a '29 Chrysler 75. As far as the highspeed jet, in general most carburators have been designed for about 1 turn out from the seated position. If you feel you are in error it is best to err on the slightly rich fuel side, as leaning out tends to be very hard on the valves. If you can see if you can find a gas analyzer, and set the exhaust gases for least amount of CO levels corresponding to higher CO2 , some HC (unburned)will always be present. The cough sounds to me like you are leaningg out a little over a long steady pull.

If the car is over heating it is likely that ignition timing is retarded. Are you taking the backlash out of the shaft? are you setting the points with the advance lever up in the retarded section? Sometimes you will have to adjust the car "by ear" properly adjusted it will just roll over smooth and slow with the lever up in retarded position (sounds almost like you can hear each individual cylinder) The engine is also louder at the exhaust since the fuel is burning closer to the time at which the exhaust valve is opening (when retarded)The engine is not utilizing the energy of the fuel, and much more heat is rejected to the exhaust and water jacket rather than being converted to useful work. I had a '31 coupe that I let my father drive (1987) (it was my daily driver so I never got ride in the rumble seat)in order to ride in the rumble seat, he thought the retard lever was a turn signa, on a right turn he pushed it up, I remeber thinking I heard the engine change pitch and my mother said she smelled something hot, well we got up the road about 2 miles before the whole manifold was cherry red and the car severly over heated (just after I had done a valve job too!) Not much we could do but let it cool, it was in the evening, and that red hot manifold was an scary sight.

Best to clean with mild detergent and soft nylon brush, with just enough motion to loosen the dirt, rinse thorougly and dry. If painting apply a very light coat (to minimize insulation effects). One problem with old radiators is the embrittling of the materials over time, mainly by oxidation, so you have to use a minimum amount of pressure, and wash off all cleaners thoroughly.

Hey Frank, From an engineering stand point lower RPM in shafting cause greater torsional fluctuation. I don't have the formula off hand, for figuring stress, but a good strength of materials book will have the complete explaination. But yes, low RPM oscillations will defintely result in heavier bearing loads.

Ok, Here is the a plus for CARS, I was pleased with the parts (NOS) I bought from them. I had searched two years for a rebuild kit/parts source for my 1 year made 56 Roadmaster power brake cylinder. They had a couple and the kits were complete and good. I will agree that I did find the owner more helpful in most cases. I did have to do a return once and there was no problem. I have ordered (NEW) engine parts from Kanter and they seemed to be of good quality. Also, if your car is in the 30's or newer, try NAPA, they supply a host of older parts that people don't realize, plus you can often match things up by looking in their buyers guide. At the shop where I work we are restoring a 31 CG, 32 CL, 33 CL* Chrysler Custom Imperials, very rare cars, yet I am able to still purchase a master cylinder (exact match) or a rebuild kit for it, wheel cylinder kits, and brake lines (by matching up) The same master cylinder kit fits as early as 26 or 27 Chrysler. also many quote "specialty" hardware items are still made EXACTLY like the original at your local hardware dealer. Another good source or brake equipment and relining is Brake and Equipment Warehouse 800-233-4053, Minneapolis, MN (www.brakeplace.com) they do a nice job with stainless steel resleeves on master and wheel cylinders,(at a better price) PS here is listing from Current Napa catalog for 1950 70 series Buicks Shoes front&rear set each (1940-51) Napa # TS 197 (12"X 2&1/4"); Master cylinder repair kit manual brakes (1941-55) Napa # 3; Wheel cylinders (1950-57) except early 1950 model 40 LF Napa# 7536 RF #7537 LR # 13387 RR # 13388 (for the rears catalog says to add a 46 prefix to it i.e. RR=46 13388; Brake hoses 1950 RF/LF 13589 Rear 36689 From NAPA catalog BSP-19 Brake system parts for 1983 and older vehicles. Tune up parts NAPA catalog 105 (Early model cars ignition and electrical system parts, 8 cylinder conatcts (points) CS779A, condenser RR174, cap RR100, rotor RR99, coil IC9, voltage regulator VR62 generator brush set R413 Hron Relay HR100, you can also get carb kits etc, I have used NAPA parts for many miles and years and have often found them to be of better quality than so called "reproduction parts" Good luck!!

Maybe packard? are the numbers followed by L and R (left right). Stude8, I thought the same thing I know Marmon did make one 12 cylinder, I saw it at Chicago Restorations two or three years ago, It was a running protoype they actaully cut down a 16 block (Marmon's engineering dept) and made a 12 they welded the outside of the block, the maching was done to high tolerances, the car it was in ( Marmon) was remarkable too, had a unibody, If I remember correctly it had front wheel drive, it was a 30-something, I did not care for the body style, it was out there (radical), but nonethe less very innovative. Perhaps some one knows where it is now, it could still be at Chicago, though I think the restoration was almost done then.