pierpaolo

I have just replaced both the outer tie rod ends on my 1955 Chrysler Windsor T&C. If I set the tie rods to the same lenght (counting the number of turns of the sleeves and checking the length) the steering wheel is not centered. According to the shop manual once the rods are of the same lenght this should automatically center the steering wheel. It is possible that the wheel was positioned incorrectly before or it has only one possible position? If I decide to center the wheel with different lenght of the rods (about 1/2 inch difference), will cause any problem to the linkage or the power steering having the steering not centered most of the time (driving straight)? I mean, does this affect the toe-out on turns, or will it harm the power steering having the valve always not centered? Another question about the toe-in: the manual recommends 0 toe-in, but allowed to a maximum of 1/16 of inch between distance of wheels taken on front and rear of front wheels. What's difference in driving feeling between the 0 and max toe in? What is recommended? Thanks a lot, Piero

Well, I am back! I have few more question: there are two small electrical components that I haven't still identified, both are located betweeen the battery and the regulator, one is rectangular (approx 3/4"x1") with four contacts, 2 large and 2 small diameter wires connected; the other is a black cilinder (approx 1"dia x 1.5") again with 4 contacts, 2 large and 2 small dia. wires. My guess are starter relay, and the other don't know!!! Maybe horn relay or neutral safety switch (I can start the car with any speed selected, so I don't know if I don't have it or if it is not working). The other question is: is it normal for the Voltage regulator to become hot when the engine is running? If not , what could be the cause? Thanks, Pierpaolo

Albert, this morning I have switched on all the lights and the heater fans with engine at idle and the indicator moved to 2/3 on the discharge side. This means that the ammeter works! This should also mean that the wires were inverted correctly at the time of the first swap (+G to -G). I've done it also driving (about 15-20mph), and the same thingh appens for few second, is it normal? This evening I will test the battery voltage with engine running at higher speed to check the regulator, and probably this weekend I will revert the car to the original, mainly to be able to reinstall the original radio once repaired. I have been told that inverting the radio polarity is not very easy, is it true? If i will have problems I will ask. Pierpaolo

Albert, I think this way to check the ammeter won't work on my car because only the current to the battery goes through the meter, all the load for other uses (lights,etc) bypasses it.

Hi Peter, I am here and ready! I have already posted my comments, further questions (obviously, my curiosity is neverending!) and thanked everibody for the help just 2 posts above yours. The reason why sometimes I don't aswer immediately is that I live in England, so there is a consistent time difference (I am near to wake up when you are surfing the web!) By the way, at the moment I am working on the ammeter, that is steady in the middle position, i don't know if is the ammeter or the voltage regulator not working. Any suggestion how to check if the ammeter and the regulator are working properly? Thanks again to everibody, Pierpaolo

Thanks all for the information, things are much more clear now. At this point, the question is: should I switch it back to positive ground? I mean, is it worth doing it or not? The only pros/cons I can see are that with pos ground I could restore the radio and use it as it was originally, while the corrosion would be faster (according to my informations, anodic corrosion happens on metals with positive charge). In case I decide to reverse the polarity, what is the correct procedure to polarise generator and voltage regulator? And what about the coil? As 52deluxe says, should I invert the wires? How can I check which is the right way (if it hasn't been done the first time)? Regarding the gauges, the fuel one works fine, the temp one is stuck in "cold" (but i to know how to check if is the gauge or the sender unit) while the amps and oil pressure ones are always at middle scale (they seem to work but never moves once started the engine): can anyone suggest me a way to check if the last two work?

What about generator, voltage regulator, starter motor, solenoid, etc., no change to be done to any electrical component? doesn't make any difference?

6V negative

I am trying to repair the automatic choke of my 1955 chrysler windsor - 301 poly V8. It works with a thermostatic coil spring heated by a hose from the exhaust manifold. I have replaced the hose that was completely obstructed, but the spring is still not receiving hot air. I would like to avoid to remove the exhaust manifold, does anibody know how is made the heater element inside the manifold, and if is possible to clean it without removal? The shop manual doesn't give any detail about the heater (the so called "stove"). I tried to blow air inside it, but it seems it is not possible. Is it obstructed or has it a closed end? Thanks, Pierpaolo

UBB7-ML-201051-ML- Piero, I moved your post to the Tech Questions section...Peter J. Heizmann

I have just discovered from the shop manual that my 1955 chrysler windsor was originally ground positive (6v). What had to be changed at the time it was converted to ground negative?? How can I check that everything has been done properly? What could be the reason for the conversion, is there any advantage or disadvantage? And what should I do to return it to the original condition? Sorry about all this question, but I has been really a big surprise for me! Thanks, Piero

The car is a 1955 chrysler windsor.

Which kind of fluid should I use to top up the power steering reservoir? (I don't know what's inside know) The shop manual says "trasmission fluid tipe A". My local store has dexron III trasmission fluid (various brands) or pennzoil "slick 50" power steering fluid. Anyone can help me? Thanks, Pierpaolo

I need to replace the defrost electric motor on my 1955 chrysler windsor, but on the motor and on the shop manual there is no data (watts, amps, rpms). The motor is P/N 1605378 6V Delco Appliance. Anybody have any data about it? Thanks, Pierpaolo

The problem is the choke, it doesn't warm up. It gets heat from the exaust manifold, but the hose is completely obstructed. It has been joint in the past with fiberglass to the portion inside the manifold, so i'm afraid to damage it trying to remove the fiberglass, and also don't know if i can remove the part inside the manifold. The shop manual says only "..remove the hose..." very helpful! However, I have set the choke fully open and regulated the idle mixture with warm engine, and now everything seems ok. I just need to pump some gas at start and in 2-3 minutes the engine runs well. No black smoke but only some healthy white fluffs. Do you think that the engine running always well with choke fully open could mean sometingh else is badly tuned (as i've sad i' ve already tuned the idle mixture with warm engine)? I have found another problem: the vaacum advance hose is cut in two and has been rejoint with a piece of rubber hose. Could this affect heavily the performance of the distributor? Thanks Piero