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56Roadmaster

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Everything posted by 56Roadmaster

  1. Another thought, is your tank vent working properly? Is it actually venting? If the vent is plugged you will apply a vaccum on the both chambers of the tank and prevent the fuel from flowing into the carb. It will fool you because every time you open the tank to refill it you remove the vacuum and gas flows down to the carb again. Sometimes you can get those stupid mud wasps plugging the vent tube. Ways to check for proper vacuum, first check the vacuum line from the engine to the tank for integrity and possible tap offs that have broken lines/rubber hoses (such as for a windshield wiper). Next check if the line is clear, blow or run a wire through. Next with engine running and the line disconnected at the tank, and connected to the manifold, put your finger over the line and if its pulling a vacuum you'll feel it, or if you have a vacuum gauge handy check it with that- probably should be 12-15" vacuum. If that's ok reconnect the vacuum line to the tank, then disconnect the fuel inlet line (gas tank to vacuum tank line) again start the engine and check for vacuum at the inlet to the vacuum tank in the same manner as above. If the vacuum is present at the engine to tank side but not at the fuel inlet side, then the tank is not sealing internally. If vacuum is present, it could be the gas tank cap may not be venting, the vacuum tank not venting, tank float stuck closed, or a restricted fuel line. My 3 cents
  2. Thanks for the information guys, I thought it looked like Zenith. The carter carb you mention is shown in the owners manual, it looks similar to one I've seen on Chevrolets.
  3. Hi all, We are working a 1928 Plymouth, we know this is not the original carb but it works. Looking for an I.D. on carb make,iron upper body, "pot" metal lower body, also a vacuum operated accelarator pump. Round tag on body is 2410N. Thanks, Scott
  4. Mark, I am looking around for ideas for something "time period" For the "cab" I am basically going to use touring car doors and seat, making the back of the seat the back of the cab. It would be neat to see your truck for ideas as well. Thanks. wilebile@sbcglobal.net
  5. F&J, Yes you are right, my mistake. Where can I find more information on the American Austin? just curious. Do you have any specifications on that engine? Thanks
  6. Here's one for you guys, A friend of mine showed me a little 4 cylinder engine which he said was in an old Chris Craft Boat. The engine is about 18" long over all and has approx 2" bore and maybe 3" stroke. It has an aluminum crank case, with one piece iron cylinders, iron head (flat head). Crank is supported at ends only. The starter motor is a combination with the distributor attached. The exhaust manifold is iron with an aluimum intake manifold attached to that. Cast into the aluminum parts is "Tenaul" the date cast is 5-1-30. I suspect this is a modified car engine of English or European make. The exhaust manifold has a water tube brazed on top for cooling. The engine does have a high angle on the crank case, so as to support line up with an inboard screw set up. Any thoughts, I don't have pics yet.
  7. John, Thanks that might not be too far away. Scott
  8. Here's an update, I picked up a number of parts from John. I now have enough to start digging into this project. I am now looking for 4 roadable wheels, would prefer 24", rims, front fenders, windshield frame, head lights. I did get some wheels form John, which need mew spokes, and I still need 24" fronts, who is a good wheel wright in the New England area? Thanks, Scott
  9. Hi F=series, 50=first two numbers of series designation i.e.500 C=engine code, O=? may be part of engine code, K= assembly plant, 17319=sequential unit number. So that really doesn't help with the year. Idea! perhaps you can look at the casting date on something like the heads or intake manifold. Or maybe post a picture.
  10. I have a 1946 1.5 ton WF-32 Flatbed and the horn mounts to a bracket that is bolted down with two head bolts on the drivers side of the head. My truck was fairly original. I have seen this set up on other Dodge trucks of that era too. Of course one of the things that is difficult about older (pre 60's) stuff is that often there is no "right" answer. Your truck could have had one horn/or two horns mounted in a different place, from the factory. Just like the oil filter set ups, not all match from vehicle to vehicle yet the they may all be correct (as the prime manufacturer may have used different vendors over a production run)
  11. Hi, pushrods stand up fairly well. Probably if they are straight and the ends are not scored up, i.e. they are shiny and smooth (either cupped or ball end) they should be ok. Idea: if you can accurately measure the length of all them, they probably should be within 0.010" of each other, and the overall wear pattern on each should look similar.
  12. Hi, From my 1956 Buick Division master parts book that# (4158909) is listed as a Buick part for model 53/73 Super/Roadmaster Sedan (4dr), There is different number for the model 56R/76R (2dr hdtp)4153557. I am pretty sure that the windshield and trim on the 54-56 Caddy coupe was the same as The Roadmaster 2dr, I got the front windshield for my 1956 76R from a Caddy. Not sure if the door vent window is the same (which is apparently what you are looking for).
  13. A simple check, charge up the battery fully. Attach a voltmeter to the battery. Set up a jumper wire (with alligator clips) Start the car (you may have to come a little above idle), connect one lead of your jumper to the output terminal of the generator and the other end to the field terminal, now note the battery voltage it should be going up. If so the regulator is faulty. WARNING ONLY CONNECT THE JUMPER TERMINAL FOR A BRIEF PERIOD SAY, FOR A FEW SECONDS (LONG ENOUGH TO SEE THE BATTERY VOLTAGE)KEEPING IT CONNECTED WILL RUIN A GOOD GENERATOR. This test is called "full fielding" the generator, you are manually supplying field voltage to the generator to see if it is working, and since there is no "regulation" in this case, you will exceed the normal rated output in short time. If the generator does not respond to full fielding then it is the culprit. You should also check all your teminals at the generator, volt regulator, battery, and engine grounds for good electical contact, sometimes light corrosion will occur. Sometimes the regulator points become pitted and cause malfunction. And BTW are you sure the battery is ok? Load test it!
  14. I have used both types in V-8 ford and my six cylinder Dodge Truck. I have logged a lot of hard hauling with both types. I noticed no difference.
  15. Rigo, I have 1969 430 Buick engine in my 83 Regal, I used a Buick V-6 dist housing,with an 8 cylinder pick up coil and shaft. The shaft was chevy v-8, I measured the length I needed and machined the shaft down and used the original points distributor gear. (that was 200K + miles ago). I actually think you don't have to do all I did, I believe a late model Buick V-8 distributor would work, maybe 1975 or newer. You should also be able to use your existing coil power wire, but modified with a female spade connector to fit the HEI connection.
  16. Ken, Are you able to identify a brand on the bearing? I was able to go to Timken for info on bearings out of my 1929 Larrabee Truck axle. Scott
  17. Joe, Thanks a lot for that information. That makes things easier. This car is a project I picked up and my 16 year old step son is learning on it. Some one either wound the - out of this engine, or got some dirt in it or both and then ran for it a while. Two rod journals were visibly 0.125" under size from wear. luckily it did not come apart. Interesting about the exhaust manifolds have the cross over port capped. You have helped us out. thanks again. Scott
  18. After working this out my conclusion is that I should have ground the swaged part of the stud off. By pressing the swaged studs out I enlarged the holes in the hub thereby ruining it. I ended up using a Chevelle two peice unit which interchanges sucessfully. Scott
  19. Hi, I have the following questions for the engine guys My engine: 1977 350 2bbl, 74cc combustion chambers, dish pistons. (Engine is in a '67 cutlass) 1.) Are all 68-77 350 cranks the same? or will interchange? 2.) Will earlier 350 (i.e. higher compression) heads work on the later block? 3.) If the heads work do I need to change the intake? 4.) Are there pistons available to boost comp to 9-9.5:1 using the 74 cc heads? 5.) For dual exhaust do I need both manifolds or just passenger side? Thanks, Scott
  20. Roy, Thanks, but I have been playing with "super" derelects for years. I have to weld up and patch holes in the cowl not to mention no wood exists, the hood is rusted in half at the center hinge. The fenders are 3/4 rotted apart, and the frame has more holes than a block of swiss cheese. The shift handle is nearly rotted through. The good thing is I'm pretty good at this game with stuff that should have gone to auto heaven long ago. Scott
  21. Ok, Thanks guys, I'd like to start with John B, the longer chassis might be better for what I have in mind. Could you take a look at yours and see if its still solid? I don't care about some pitting and maybe some small holes to patch, just not to the point where parts of the rails are rotted through/off. If possible can you e-mail privately with some digital pics? wilebile@sbcglobal.net By the way you guys are right, I've done my fair share of restoration work on some packard super 8's and 12's as well as Chrysler Custom Imperials (CG and CL). I don't know why the hype on those "Classics" The Buick has them beat and nothing runs so darn smooooooth !!! Scott
  22. I picked up a 23-45 parts car(if you can call it that)very very rusty and rotten you know the kind here in New England. Interestingly enough the engine, radiator and other running gear were ok. The engine was covered,the odometer was at 20K, After checking out the engine and unsticking the waterpump shaft I got the engine running. Sounds fine, oil pressure is, ok, no smoke, no knocks etc. So I am thinking I would like to build an open pick up out of this (only the cowl is left- no other body parts) I am casually looking for a frame; any available in connecticut?
  23. Jr, A couple of general carb thoughts. Is the float level set too high? Is there a stuck open accelerator pump discharge check valve (if it has one)? If the accelerator pump has a removable discharge nozzle, is the gasket cracked/broken, nozzle not tight? Not sure the vintage on this carb, but if fuel pump fed,is the fuel pump pressure incorrect? Do you have a drilled passage where a plug has come loose (usually for pressed in type plugs)? I've rebuilt DD-3 and EE-3 types but not sure of the one you have. Can you possibly check the fuel inlet needle seat to body area for fine cracking? Maybe block off the seat and test with some air pressure.
  24. Don, Thanks, I suppose that finding such a set up might be hard these days. I would however, love to add something like that to my tool collection. You don't remember the manufacturer's name do you? Scott
  25. Jim, You could try CARS Inc, they are in New Jersey and have a lot of NOS parts. I have purchased some items for my 56 Buicks from them before. If I had to take a shot in the dark I would guess that Olds and Pontiac also might share the same switch.
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