56Roadmaster

I have used both types in V-8 ford and my six cylinder Dodge Truck. I have logged a lot of hard hauling with both types. I noticed no difference.

Rigo, I have 1969 430 Buick engine in my 83 Regal, I used a Buick V-6 dist housing,with an 8 cylinder pick up coil and shaft. The shaft was chevy v-8, I measured the length I needed and machined the shaft down and used the original points distributor gear. (that was 200K + miles ago). I actually think you don't have to do all I did, I believe a late model Buick V-8 distributor would work, maybe 1975 or newer. You should also be able to use your existing coil power wire, but modified with a female spade connector to fit the HEI connection.

Ken, Are you able to identify a brand on the bearing? I was able to go to Timken for info on bearings out of my 1929 Larrabee Truck axle. Scott

Joe, Thanks a lot for that information. That makes things easier. This car is a project I picked up and my 16 year old step son is learning on it. Some one either wound the - out of this engine, or got some dirt in it or both and then ran for it a while. Two rod journals were visibly 0.125" under size from wear. luckily it did not come apart. Interesting about the exhaust manifolds have the cross over port capped. You have helped us out. thanks again. Scott

After working this out my conclusion is that I should have ground the swaged part of the stud off. By pressing the swaged studs out I enlarged the holes in the hub thereby ruining it. I ended up using a Chevelle two peice unit which interchanges sucessfully. Scott

Hi, I have the following questions for the engine guys My engine: 1977 350 2bbl, 74cc combustion chambers, dish pistons. (Engine is in a '67 cutlass) 1.) Are all 68-77 350 cranks the same? or will interchange? 2.) Will earlier 350 (i.e. higher compression) heads work on the later block? 3.) If the heads work do I need to change the intake? 4.) Are there pistons available to boost comp to 9-9.5:1 using the 74 cc heads? 5.) For dual exhaust do I need both manifolds or just passenger side? Thanks, Scott

Roy, Thanks, but I have been playing with "super" derelects for years. I have to weld up and patch holes in the cowl not to mention no wood exists, the hood is rusted in half at the center hinge. The fenders are 3/4 rotted apart, and the frame has more holes than a block of swiss cheese. The shift handle is nearly rotted through. The good thing is I'm pretty good at this game with stuff that should have gone to auto heaven long ago. Scott

Ok, Thanks guys, I'd like to start with John B, the longer chassis might be better for what I have in mind. Could you take a look at yours and see if its still solid? I don't care about some pitting and maybe some small holes to patch, just not to the point where parts of the rails are rotted through/off. If possible can you e-mail privately with some digital pics? wilebile@sbcglobal.net By the way you guys are right, I've done my fair share of restoration work on some packard super 8's and 12's as well as Chrysler Custom Imperials (CG and CL). I don't know why the hype on those "Classics" The Buick has them beat and nothing runs so darn smooooooth !!! Scott

I picked up a 23-45 parts car(if you can call it that)very very rusty and rotten you know the kind here in New England. Interestingly enough the engine, radiator and other running gear were ok. The engine was covered,the odometer was at 20K, After checking out the engine and unsticking the waterpump shaft I got the engine running. Sounds fine, oil pressure is, ok, no smoke, no knocks etc. So I am thinking I would like to build an open pick up out of this (only the cowl is left- no other body parts) I am casually looking for a frame; any available in connecticut?

Jr, A couple of general carb thoughts. Is the float level set too high? Is there a stuck open accelerator pump discharge check valve (if it has one)? If the accelerator pump has a removable discharge nozzle, is the gasket cracked/broken, nozzle not tight? Not sure the vintage on this carb, but if fuel pump fed,is the fuel pump pressure incorrect? Do you have a drilled passage where a plug has come loose (usually for pressed in type plugs)? I've rebuilt DD-3 and EE-3 types but not sure of the one you have. Can you possibly check the fuel inlet needle seat to body area for fine cracking? Maybe block off the seat and test with some air pressure.

Don, Thanks, I suppose that finding such a set up might be hard these days. I would however, love to add something like that to my tool collection. You don't remember the manufacturer's name do you? Scott

Jim, You could try CARS Inc, they are in New Jersey and have a lot of NOS parts. I have purchased some items for my 56 Buicks from them before. If I had to take a shot in the dark I would guess that Olds and Pontiac also might share the same switch.

Raphael I wonder if you have a problem with a piston spring. There is a piston set up on later hydromatics, the tension of which determines how quickly hydraulic pressure moves the piston, I think this is to do with the low band though. There may be a similar set up in yours.

Hi, One of the things you have to do with the 3rd brush system is set it for the type of driving you do, if you use the head lights alot then you should set the generator to be putting out for that condition and drive with the lights on during the day if needs be to prevent overcharging the battery. You mentioned though, that you replaced the regulator, are you sure it isn't a cut out only? The cutout would have only 1 wire in (from the generator) and one wire out. It is just a soleniod switch that opens when the battery gets to a certain level of charge and has no effect on the generator output.

HI, I agree you don't want to hone out the hub. What you can do is put the bearings in the freezer a couple hours and put hub into the oven ~200F or sometimes even just let it sit in the sun. You also are using a press vs hammer and mandrel (hopefully) A good hydraulic shop press with a proper adapter to press on the outer race should do the trick. Get everything set up before hand so you can go right from the freezer to press. Check the race OD and the hub ID with a micrometer or caliper to see if they are within a few thousands of eachother. Scott

Hi, Recently I picked up a '67 Cutlass 2dr which I thought would be a good project for my stepson. Needs a fair amount of work trunk floors, a little frame work and engine work. Since none of that is problem to do, I decided to start with the brakes. So he has learned how to make up brake lines, put the shoes on, adjust, rebuild cylinders and repack bearings, and have a little fun and a lot more appreciation as to what makes a car work. Our problem is that one of the front wheel drums needed to be replaced. This car has the "one piece" hub and drum, where the studs are pressed in and hold the drum to the hub. So I figure nothing unusual here, we'll press the old studs out and then press the new ones and new drum together with the hub. Well, I picked up new studs by the NAPA parts listing, but the new studs drop through the hub hole freely. So I examined the original studs closely, it appears they were "upset" or swaged in place originally. The diameter of the knurl near the head of the stud matches the diameter of the new stud, but the diameter near the threads is approx 0.010" larger and you can see the deformation from the swaging. I had to do this swaging for Model A Ford hubs/studs at one time and I was able to get a swaging tool for the studs (bascially hard bar stock with a hole drilled in one end). Does any one know if there is a source for such a tool for the 7/16" studs? Any other suggestions/experiences with GM hubs, should be the same as GTO, Chevelle, Skylark of the same vintage, Thanks, Scott

Dave, I still have not found the number, do you have one of these cars? The exhaust system was even salvagable on the one I had. Scott

I run my 46 Dodge truck on 93 octance, and never have any porblems.I drive the truck regularly over long distances and many time haul 3 tons or more of gravel. That little 237 really works hard and I am always shifting gears on the hills.

Mark, No, not likely. Was this destroyed in one of the wildfires we out east hear about? Too bad the structural parts would require heat treatment to restore their strength properties (not to mention the straightening). I supposed the cast iron parts are salvagable, as well as the tank. Thanks for showing it I was interested and kind of saddened by it. Scott

Hi, I have a '46 1.5 ton that I "refurbished" (meaning good safe working order) and use all the time. You can get 99% of your mechanical parts from NAPA or equivalent auto stores. In hemmings you can try Roberts, Andy Bernbaum for other stuff i.e. weather strip, gauges, rubber parts etc. I just rebuilt my engine last year and had no problem buying pistons, gaskets etc through regular parts sources (Sealed power, fel-pro etc.)Though you may have to get your parts guy to look up the part in the paper catalog rather than the computer. Your engine is slightly smaller (217 I think) but all parts available for that. Brake shoes you might have to have relined, but there are plently of shops-probably someone local. have fun!

I have posted some photos of photos (link to brassauto) http://www.brassauto.com/brass-pages/index.html of a 1912 Model 36 Roadster that I purchased when I was in my late teens and had joined The Navy(1988-89). I purchased this car for $9500.00 and the fellow I boughtit from allowed me to pay out on it. I sold my 1931 Ford A coupe(Which I had restored and was my daily driver) to finish paying for the Buick. I was so proud of this car.I next set about to disassemble and catalog the parts. The engine had previously been overhauled, but never run. The hood was a reproduction. I had a set of reproduction brass headlamps- they were for Buick but we weren't sure if Brass was correct for the '12. We also weren't sure if this was a '12 or late '11. The radiator shell was painted black. I do not remeber the frame tag number, I may have it written down but cannot find it now. We also were not sure if the rear lamp was correct. Otherwise the car was original and untouched. the dirver's side suffered moisture damage as you can see because it had been parked along side a stone wall or foundation for some time before the man I bought it from had purcahsed it. The spring shackle pins had suffered alot of wear,presumably from dusty roads and lack of maintenance. The magneto was a Splitdorf and the coil box was there, but missing the key. I remember under the box cover was list of do's and don'ts and one said "do not dissect the magneto unless you are an expert as we put the right number a wheels in it when we build it". I plugged away slowly and did not have too much time to work on it. In 1993 after I left the Navy I was compelled to sell the car due to some poor planning, at a ridiculusly low price to Dragone of Brigeport. Later I once called,and the car was apparently sold to an overseas buyer. I wonder if anyone knows the fate after that? Hopefully it found a good home. I recently saw a '12 M36 on e-bay the description stated one of 4 known- can anyone validate that? I would have thought there were more around, If I remeber from research there were at least a thousand built. Does anyone know of this car today?

try Benchwick's I believe they are in Ohio. He has a rebuild/parts service probably can find them in Hemmings

temp switch available at NAPA 60-63 364&401 w/light TS6625, 61-63 215 TS6471, go to napaonline.com and type in the part number and you can probably get a picture, at any rate you can have it from your dealer w/in a day. Most people don't realize how much old stuff is readily available, and I doubt you can see much difference from a "GM" part compared to NAPA on something like a sender. I have only seen some small numbers on things such as brake light original switches off cars from the 20's & 30's and NAPA carries those too. yep just checked $14.49

yep, i have one from a 55 I boned out, its kind of neat, I may put it my 56 as the floor pans are the same.

Buick version was called selectronic Chevy was called wonder bar