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56Roadmaster

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Everything posted by 56Roadmaster

  1. Raphael I wonder if you have a problem with a piston spring. There is a piston set up on later hydromatics, the tension of which determines how quickly hydraulic pressure moves the piston, I think this is to do with the low band though. There may be a similar set up in yours.
  2. Hi, One of the things you have to do with the 3rd brush system is set it for the type of driving you do, if you use the head lights alot then you should set the generator to be putting out for that condition and drive with the lights on during the day if needs be to prevent overcharging the battery. You mentioned though, that you replaced the regulator, are you sure it isn't a cut out only? The cutout would have only 1 wire in (from the generator) and one wire out. It is just a soleniod switch that opens when the battery gets to a certain level of charge and has no effect on the generator output.
  3. HI, I agree you don't want to hone out the hub. What you can do is put the bearings in the freezer a couple hours and put hub into the oven ~200F or sometimes even just let it sit in the sun. You also are using a press vs hammer and mandrel (hopefully) A good hydraulic shop press with a proper adapter to press on the outer race should do the trick. Get everything set up before hand so you can go right from the freezer to press. Check the race OD and the hub ID with a micrometer or caliper to see if they are within a few thousands of eachother. Scott
  4. Hi, Recently I picked up a '67 Cutlass 2dr which I thought would be a good project for my stepson. Needs a fair amount of work trunk floors, a little frame work and engine work. Since none of that is problem to do, I decided to start with the brakes. So he has learned how to make up brake lines, put the shoes on, adjust, rebuild cylinders and repack bearings, and have a little fun and a lot more appreciation as to what makes a car work. Our problem is that one of the front wheel drums needed to be replaced. This car has the "one piece" hub and drum, where the studs are pressed in and hold the drum to the hub. So I figure nothing unusual here, we'll press the old studs out and then press the new ones and new drum together with the hub. Well, I picked up new studs by the NAPA parts listing, but the new studs drop through the hub hole freely. So I examined the original studs closely, it appears they were "upset" or swaged in place originally. The diameter of the knurl near the head of the stud matches the diameter of the new stud, but the diameter near the threads is approx 0.010" larger and you can see the deformation from the swaging. I had to do this swaging for Model A Ford hubs/studs at one time and I was able to get a swaging tool for the studs (bascially hard bar stock with a hole drilled in one end). Does any one know if there is a source for such a tool for the 7/16" studs? Any other suggestions/experiences with GM hubs, should be the same as GTO, Chevelle, Skylark of the same vintage, Thanks, Scott
  5. Dave, I still have not found the number, do you have one of these cars? The exhaust system was even salvagable on the one I had. Scott
  6. I run my 46 Dodge truck on 93 octance, and never have any porblems.I drive the truck regularly over long distances and many time haul 3 tons or more of gravel. That little 237 really works hard and I am always shifting gears on the hills.
  7. Mark, No, not likely. Was this destroyed in one of the wildfires we out east hear about? Too bad the structural parts would require heat treatment to restore their strength properties (not to mention the straightening). I supposed the cast iron parts are salvagable, as well as the tank. Thanks for showing it I was interested and kind of saddened by it. Scott
  8. Hi, I have a '46 1.5 ton that I "refurbished" (meaning good safe working order) and use all the time. You can get 99% of your mechanical parts from NAPA or equivalent auto stores. In hemmings you can try Roberts, Andy Bernbaum for other stuff i.e. weather strip, gauges, rubber parts etc. I just rebuilt my engine last year and had no problem buying pistons, gaskets etc through regular parts sources (Sealed power, fel-pro etc.)Though you may have to get your parts guy to look up the part in the paper catalog rather than the computer. Your engine is slightly smaller (217 I think) but all parts available for that. Brake shoes you might have to have relined, but there are plently of shops-probably someone local. have fun!
  9. I have posted some photos of photos (link to brassauto) http://www.brassauto.com/brass-pages/index.html of a 1912 Model 36 Roadster that I purchased when I was in my late teens and had joined The Navy(1988-89). I purchased this car for $9500.00 and the fellow I boughtit from allowed me to pay out on it. I sold my 1931 Ford A coupe(Which I had restored and was my daily driver) to finish paying for the Buick. I was so proud of this car.I next set about to disassemble and catalog the parts. The engine had previously been overhauled, but never run. The hood was a reproduction. I had a set of reproduction brass headlamps- they were for Buick but we weren't sure if Brass was correct for the '12. We also weren't sure if this was a '12 or late '11. The radiator shell was painted black. I do not remeber the frame tag number, I may have it written down but cannot find it now. We also were not sure if the rear lamp was correct. Otherwise the car was original and untouched. the dirver's side suffered moisture damage as you can see because it had been parked along side a stone wall or foundation for some time before the man I bought it from had purcahsed it. The spring shackle pins had suffered alot of wear,presumably from dusty roads and lack of maintenance. The magneto was a Splitdorf and the coil box was there, but missing the key. I remember under the box cover was list of do's and don'ts and one said "do not dissect the magneto unless you are an expert as we put the right number a wheels in it when we build it". I plugged away slowly and did not have too much time to work on it. In 1993 after I left the Navy I was compelled to sell the car due to some poor planning, at a ridiculusly low price to Dragone of Brigeport. Later I once called,and the car was apparently sold to an overseas buyer. I wonder if anyone knows the fate after that? Hopefully it found a good home. I recently saw a '12 M36 on e-bay the description stated one of 4 known- can anyone validate that? I would have thought there were more around, If I remeber from research there were at least a thousand built. Does anyone know of this car today?
  10. try Benchwick's I believe they are in Ohio. He has a rebuild/parts service probably can find them in Hemmings
  11. temp switch available at NAPA 60-63 364&401 w/light TS6625, 61-63 215 TS6471, go to napaonline.com and type in the part number and you can probably get a picture, at any rate you can have it from your dealer w/in a day. Most people don't realize how much old stuff is readily available, and I doubt you can see much difference from a "GM" part compared to NAPA on something like a sender. I have only seen some small numbers on things such as brake light original switches off cars from the 20's & 30's and NAPA carries those too. yep just checked $14.49
  12. yep, i have one from a 55 I boned out, its kind of neat, I may put it my 56 as the floor pans are the same.
  13. Buick version was called selectronic Chevy was called wonder bar
  14. I believe you may still be able to source parts from bijur, they made all type of lubrication equipment for machinery as well as autos. First thing that comes to mind is Bridgeport milling machines. I know a fellow was able to source drawings for some of the Packard set-ups from them this, was about 15 years ago. It could be that Bijur is now a sudsidiary of some larger company. Hey why not try some industrial machinery rebuilders?
  15. 1951-52 170 six engine bored, new pistons, rings, valves, bearings etc. Car was sold to hot rodder did not want engine. This engine was never fired, comes with manifold, starter, generator, carb, head, new water pump, no flywheel or bell housing, have B&W transmission could go with it for full price. Consider this engine with all the work done, for less than half the price of staring form scratch. $1000.00/offers, located in Moodus, CT no shipping would deliver in CT email wilebill@att.net
  16. For sale 1929 standard eight engine, probably not run in 50 years, turns over,no stuck valves, minus carb and distibutor, have a casing from a Northeast distibutor, may be right, rusty block and head but not cracked, has starter, flywheel, clutch, fan, water pump, oil filter and manifold. Asking $1000.00. email: wilebill@att.net. Located in Moodus,CT, no shipping but would deliver in CT
  17. You need to find packing material for high temp application. This can probably be found at a heating/plumbing supply outfit. You probably want something in the range of 500-800F. The packing can purchased in rope form of square or round cross section of various dimensions. There are asbestos, asbestos-graphite combinations which were made-if they are not made still-try one of those old mom&pop hardware stores that have been around since who knows when. hope that hepls.
  18. try northwestern auto supply in grand rapids MI, he has alot of old stock
  19. You should use caution in applying spray welding (or any welding)to a metal of unknwown composition, while you may end up with something that "looks good" you may embrittle the material- granted they are probably some type or carbon steel-which may cost you a car or your life. Those pins are probably "soaked" with grease (on a microscopic level) grease being a petroleum product which is a hydro-carbon compund at weld temperatures hydrogen atoms will enter the weld zone and can cause lack of fusion and cracking at a much later date. Additionally without knowing what the compsition is you can change the microscopic structure (which can be corrected by heat treatment) which may cause failure as well. Best to talk to an experiecned weld shop or machine shop and pick a suitable replacement steel to machine new ones from. You really don't know the loading the pins take with out dynamic analysis. however someone very familiar with design for similar items would be a good start. I doubt Hupp engineers of the day just guessed.
  20. This engine should have the distributor set off to passenger side bank looks like a modern set up. There should be a lock screw and slotted plate under the body, the lock screw being parallel to center line of distributor shaft and srews into timing cover. If your distributor is mounted directly on front of engine it is a pre 49 design which is set with some fixture off the car. the vacuum brake can be adjusted on the car.
  21. The covers off a 56 322 should be the same. I imagine those covers were just as annoying to some people as the engine pans on a model A Ford and simply were not replaced after a tune up. I don't think they should be hard to find a set. In the meantime you can get a set of plug boots at almost any parts store to cover the bare ends. Original wires had boots behind those covers.
  22. You don't need the common ground at all. Just set the 12v on the ground or table near the car and connect the timing light leads to it and the pick around the spark plug wire. The inductive pick up generates a signal indepedent of the timing light's 12v circuitry. The AC signal is caused by the rise and fall of the voltage in the spark plug wire which causes a rising and falling magnetic field around the plug wire which in turn induces(hence "inductive timing light") a current the pick up coil of the timing light. (see your favorite physics book and look up Farady's Laws) The AC signal in the timing light is then used in the timing light's circuit to turn the light on and off.
  23. I had a 12 Buick the Schebler Carb that was supposed correct as the car was fairly original, I noted that it had a water jacket built into it presumably for better atomization. The air inlet had an adjustable check valve and vent of similar design to their marine carburators.It was brass.
  24. It is possible, 324 is not a very large displacement. I had a tempest 326 and could average 18-22 on the highway. There are alot of factors that could vary from car to car, engine condition, gear ratios, accessories i.e. AC PS, tire size, tire width, tire pressure. Driving habits, i.e. rapid acceleration, environment, barometric pressure, road terrian i.e. hilly or flat. Remember just because an engine "sounds good and runs smooth" doesn't always mean it isn't leaking compression. You can change the cam lift and duration. In addition one would expect better milage with higher compression anyway, since the efficiency of a heat engine (i.e. the internal combustion engine) goes up as compression ration increases and with hotter temperatures (of course we don't have materials to support really high temperatures). Another issue is that most four barrel carbs are made to be very efficient at crusing speeds i.e. when you are only using the primary circuit. It is also possible for you to be in error if your speedometer is off due to a wrong gear ratio, or tires of a different size then what it was calibrated to.
  25. You should disconect the generator while doing this, also you can burn your 6v ignition coil out. when I start an old 6V system with a 12V what I usaully do is disconnect the accessories and the generator and temporarily install a 12V coil or a proper ballast resistor in the power wire for the coil to reduce volts to 6v at coil, and use the 12v battery directly with the starter without going through the six volt at all. While I have done the 12v jump to 6v, don't forget you can get a battery explosion. Also on priming priming the engine by the screw driver method, be sure the oil pump is not driven directly from the camshaft, unlike more modern engines which utilize the distributor gear to drive the pump most older engines drove through a Non removable (without major engine disassembly) gear off the cam. so when you try to turn the pump you would think it is siezed. Best method is to force oil into the oil galleries if your pump has the "direct" gear drive.
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