56Roadmaster

Morning! Came across this really nice distributor on ebay at a reasonable price. I have already converted to a cast iron body, but I know folks are always looking for these, so thought I would share link. This looks fantastic metal wise. Hopefully just what someone was waiting for. Cheers! https://www.ebay.com/itm/275217830474?hash=item401442d24a:g:F0QAAOSwYpBiM8ax

Heres a fun short little video from 1936. $25 for repaors and $45 for repaint lol.

This should also answer the question about Packard building their own bodies. The first description frame says so.

Quite a bit of discussion here. Thanks for the good discussion and the folks presenting their handiwork👍👍

Jack lots to say there. I like it. I worked for a number of years on restorations, most not my own, but a lot involved wood replacement. I think you have made the point I was alluding to: That we often get caught in the vortex of what is perfectly, exactly, and indisputably original. You can be pretty sure all those jigs and fixtures of factories of yesterday were a compromise between "absolute perfection" and "fit for purpose" and production process. None of those jigs and fixtures, coupled with degree of skill of workmen made a perfect automobile, what they did do was make a repeatable product, for some expediture for a return, for some level of quality acceptable to the manufacturer, and customer. I might ad that has not changed to this day (I am in manufacturing) However, I do feel that what comes out restorations is the manifestation of indviduals' passions and drive for craftsmanship, unconstrained by a set level of compromise between manufacturing quality and profit. I think the restoration process and product is a tribute to the labor of love and skills that many share in preserving our motoring heritage. 👍🙂

I think that most of the restorers today probably end up with a "better than factory" condition due to time, effort, and intent in recreating the wood parts.

Dave like some others have said welding will be ok. You may already know this, but to put some numbers on on preheat and interpass: preheat to 800-1000F and keep the temp steady while welding and when done cool at 100F/hr max.

Always a topic for discussion. Painstaking restoration of wood frame bodies. Below is a link to a video "0How Packard Builds a Body" Near the final third of the video is some great footage of how fast the wood is sawn and machined en-mass with relatively simple jigs. Watch "How Packard Builds a Body Part 3" on YouTube https://youtu.be/dkxuZZlPjsI

Dibarlaw. Thank you for the pictures. No your meeting was not with me, it was likely with the man I bought it from, who it turns out I knew but had not seen in maybe 25 years, he has quite an eclectict collection of vehicles. We you involved in helping with the sale? If you have other pics would love to have them, you could send via PM. I do not have it on the road yet. However, making steady progress for 2022. Thanks. Scott. Also I Tip my cap to Hugh!!! who has been very ethusiastic and helpful in sharing his wealth of knowledge on the model 25.

Hugh just 25-25 folding top. I appreciate the information, thank you. Thank you for positing pic of yours, looks sharp! Scott

Have not been on here in a while. Earlier this year I ended up with the Model 25 that was listed in the buy/and sell posts back on April 4, 2018. Currently going through it mechanically, just a lot of maintenance type items. Did have it running, circled the yard with it, sounds good, nice and smooth and quiet. Plan to leave as is cosmetically with exception of top repair and seat upholstery. Distributor potmetal was gone, so I found a cast iron body from a 4 cylinder as suggested else where in these forums, fits perfect. Also have a 23 engine, and note that has a cast iron distributor as well - I checked it out and it would also have worked. Cheers.

Here's my '46 Dodge WF-32, it has the 237 engine and NP 4 speed. Bought it sitting in junkyard back in 1997. Did a refurb on it. I have been using since about 1998 and put about 21,000 miles on it to date. It started out as oil delivery truck in 1946. I took the tank off and mounted an old dump body on it, the hoist is rolling wedge type. Use it for everything, scrap metal, machine pickup, wood, gravel, mulch, and moving friends and family. Not too fast but it gets there eventually. Comfortable at 45-50 mph (until we get a hill). Last year had an issue with power booster - a yellow jacket got in the booster vent line, and stuck under the valve, holding it partly open. see pic.

Hello, looking for 1925 Buick Standard Six distibutor, complete or just a good housing. Would consider the iron distributor, from '23 model (maybe 23-27?). Not interested in the later 640 conversion as I already have good cap, rotor and points for early style. Send PM to my email with pics and price if you have. Thanks Scott In Connecticut

On the Navy technique, that's used to check preheat for welding where approximately room temp (60F) minimum preheat is required. The source of the moisture is really the water vapor as result of burning a hydrocarbon fuel (acetylene, propane etc.). The basic combustion products are H20 and CO2 always. Once the metal heats up the water vapor no longer condenses, and yes there is a lot of water that will condense. Try your propane torch on a cold piece of material and you'll see.

This is for Leif, I have not been on the forums in a long time, and tried posting a reply directly to your post on '23 olds bearings, but kept getting errors, then I tried send private message did not work, not sure what the h--- is going on, I seem to have all necessary permissions. Anyway...... I have a 1939 Hollander Interchnage Book which covers Olds back to 1924, there is section 1924-1927 which makes no differentiation bewteen models or cylinders. Here are numbers and manufacturers Front Inner 909002 (New Departure, SKF and Norma Hoffma), 10002 (Fafnir), #2(MRC (Marlin Rockwell Co), CJB (Ahlberg Bearing Co), F002 (Federal); Front Outer 909001 (New Departure, SKF and Norma Hoffma), 10001 (Fafnir), #1(MRC (Marlin Rockwell Co), CJB (Ahlberg Bearing Co), F001 (Federal). Maybe these numbers will be a starting point. These are ball bearing types. Just as note the 23 Buick 4 cylinder uses 909004 Inner and 909003 outer (N.D. SKF and Norma) for other bearing manufactures above replace the last or single digit with 3 or 4 Good Luck

Does anyone have the GM part # for the plastic gasket that goes bewteen the power booster and the firewall on a 1965 Olds 98? Or does anyone know if there is a source for these? I am guessing the gasket fits Buick, Olds, Pontiac at least. Thanks in advance

Hi All, Sometime in the last year I stumbled across a black and white photo of a Buick Truck on the internet (Late teens or twenties styling). It was stated that the picture was a factory photo of prototype, the picture was looking from the left rear corner forward and there were two gentlemen in the picture. The interesting part was the pick-up bed, it was finshed like the body work and followed the body lines (i.e. it was not the typical rough rectrangle box). It was alomost like the bottom of sedan body was used. If anybody has seen this picture and has link, I would apprciate it. Thanks, Scott

1912 Buick Model 36 Where is it now?<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <HR SIZE=1>Back in 2008 I posted this in general forums "our cars and projets" thought I'd try it here with the pre war Buick guys. Unfortunately, I still have not found the frame number. With the few of these that survived someone must remember buying this from Dragone Classics of Bridgeport, CT back in 1993.<!-- google_ad_section_start --> I have posted some photos of photos (link to brassauto) Classic Autopart Reproduction Service of a 1912 Model 36 Roadster that I purchased when I was in my late teens and had joined The Navy(1988-89). I purchased this car for $9500.00 and the fellow I bought it from allowed me to pay out on it. After paying out for a while, I sold my 1931 Ford A coupe to finish paying for the Buick. I was so proud of this car coming home with me on the back of a flat bed. I set about to disassemble and catalog the parts. The engine had previously been overhauled, but never run. The hood was a reproduction. It had a set of reproduction brass headlamps- they were for Buick but we weren't sure if Brass was correct for the '12. We also weren't sure if this was a '12 or late '11. The radiator shell was painted black. I do not remember the frame tag number, I may have it written down but cannot find it now. We also were not sure if the rear lamp was correct. Otherwise the car was original and untouched. the driver's side suffered moisture damage as you can see on the lower fenders because it had been parked along side a stone wall or foundation for some time before the man I bought it from had purchased it. The spring shackle pins had suffered alot of wear,presumably from dusty roads and lack of maintenance. The magneto was a Splitdorf and the coil box was there, but missing the key. I remember under the box cover was list of do's and don'ts and one said "do not dissect the magneto unless you are an expert as we put the right number a wheels in it when we build it". I plugged away slowly and did not have too much time to work on it. In 1993 after I left the Navy I was compelled to sell the car due to some poor planning, at a ridiculusly low price to Dragone's of Bridgeport, CT. Later I once called them,and the car was apparently sold to an overseas buyer. I wonder if anyone knows the fate after that? Hopefully it found a good home. Does anyone know of this car today? <!-- google_ad_section_end --><FIELDSET class=fieldset><LEGEND>Attached Thumbnails</LEGEND> </FIELDSET>

Hi Mark, That looks great! Every time I see a '12, my hinder parts hurt, 'cause I kick myself for selling mine all those years ago. Maybe you can post some video footage of your '12 project. Hey, does the coil box cover have a little dos and don'ts instruction pasted inside it? Mine had one, and the funniest don't was something like "don't dissect the magneto we put the right number of little wheels in it to start with"

Hi guys, I saw this for sale on another site for old engines that I visit. The ad says 1908-10, but I think it also fits 1912 as it looks exactly like what I had I my roadster. Seems like this could be of use to someone. For Sale: EARLY BUICK CAR FUEL TANK

Northeast distributor housing, Packard 8. Distributor Packard 8 Notheast Delco Remy 5033450 Ignition - eBay (item 280742140989 end time Sep-26-11 11:33:40 PDT)

Autolite, not sure what this fits not too many choices with a 12 cylinder. I assume 12 cylinder as wires are labeled 1R, 1L, 2R, 2L etc. Distributor Autolite IGE4024 9U Daul point 12 cylinder | eBay

Cyclonic Type Air filter, came from an 1924 or 25 buick. Probably fits others. Restorable Accessory. Airfliter Vintage old anitque early Buick others, cyclone type filter - eBay (item 280742137308 end time Sep-26-11 11:26:27 PDT)

1924-25 maybe later? Buick Marvel Carb parts, float and jets w/o cast iron body. Carburator parts vintage Marvel 65-20P, 1924-25 Buick - eBay (item 280742136183 end time Sep-26-11 11:24:33 PDT)

Hupp model R oil pump, tube and sparkplug loom for sale. Huppmobile Model R Oil pump tube pipe - eBay (item 280742139577 end time Sep-26-11 11:31:06 PDT) Huppmobile Model R Oil pump 4 cylinder 45043A - eBay (item 280742135640 end time Sep-26-11 11:23:27 PDT) Huppmobile Model R sparkplug Wire loom - eBay (item 280742142368 end time Sep-26-11 11:36:01 PDT)