Grimy

@PETIT a gentle suggestion that you soon replace the Phillips-head screws holding the AACA award with oval-head, plated *slotted* screws. Your car is a couple of years too early for Phillips.

One month and a few days ago, a fellow Pierce-Arrow owner tried ChatGPT with a trick question about restoring a *1939* Pierce-Arrow (business closed permanently in Jan 1938). Here's how it went: [edit: can't hep the spacing--I tried!] How should I restore my 1939 Pierce-Arrow? ChatGPT Restoring a vintage vehicle like a 1939 Pierce-Arrow requires careful planning, attention to detail, and a love for automotive restoration. Here are some general steps to consider when undertaking the restoration process: Research and Documentation: Gather as much information as possible about your specific model, including original specifications, factory documentation, and historical records. Consult online forums, books, and other resources to understand common issues, restoration techniques, and available parts. Set a Realistic Budget: Restoring a classic car can be an expensive endeavor. Evaluate your finances and set a budget that covers the cost of parts, labor, tools, and any unforeseen expenses that may arise during the process. Create a Restoration Plan: Assess the current condition of your Pierce-Arrow and determine the extent of restoration required. Break down the restoration into manageable phases, such as mechanical, bodywork, interior, and finishing touches. Create a timeline and prioritize tasks accordingly. Locate Parts and Materials: Pierce-Arrow parts may be challenging to find, but there are specialized suppliers, online auctions, and classified ads where you might discover original or reproduction parts. Engage with the vintage car community and join relevant forums or clubs to connect with fellow enthusiasts who can offer guidance and assistance. Mechanical Restoration: Begin by assessing and restoring the mechanical components, including the engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, and electrical systems. Repair or replace worn-out or damaged parts while striving to maintain authenticity. Consult with experienced mechanics or restoration specialists for guidance, especially if you lack mechanical expertise. Bodywork and Paint: Carefully strip the old paint and address any rust or body damage. Seek the assistance of skilled bodywork professionals if needed, as they can ensure the car's original lines and contours are preserved. Choose an appropriate paint color that matches the car's original specifications or reflects your desired aesthetic. Interior Restoration: Restore or recreate the original interior upholstery, dashboard, and trim pieces. Locate accurate materials, such as period-correct fabrics or leather, and work with skilled upholsterers to achieve an authentic result. Finishing Touches: Reassemble the vehicle, paying attention to fit, alignment, and proper installation of all parts. Detail the car meticulously, ensuring all surfaces are clean and polished. Consider adding finishing touches such as chrome plating, authentic badges, or period-correct accessories to enhance the car's authenticity. Testing and Quality Control: Perform thorough testing to ensure the vehicle's mechanical systems are functioning correctly and reliably. Take the car for test drives to identify any issues that need to be addressed before declaring the restoration complete. Enjoyment and Maintenance: Once your Pierce-Arrow restoration is complete, take pride in your accomplishment and enjoy driving and showcasing your vintage automobile. Establish a regular maintenance routine to preserve the car's condition and seek professional help for any complex repairs or maintenance tasks. Remember, restoring a vintage vehicle can be a time-consuming and challenging process, but it can also be incredibly rewarding. Take your time, seek help when needed, and enjoy the journey of bringing your 1939 Pierce-Arrow back to its former glory. Are you sure? ChatGPT I apologize if my previous response did not meet your expectations. As an AI language model, I can provide general guidelines and suggestions for restoring a vintage vehicle like a 1939 Pierce-Arrow. However, please keep in mind that the restoration process can vary depending on the specific condition of the vehicle, available resources, personal preferences, and the expertise of the restorer. It is always advisable to consult with experts, restoration professionals, and fellow enthusiasts who have experience with Pierce-Arrow vehicles or similar vintage cars. They can provide specific insights, tips, and guidance based on their expertise and hands-on experience. Additionally, joining vintage car clubs or forums dedicated to Pierce-Arrow or classic car restoration can connect you with a community of individuals who share a passion for these vehicles. They can offer valuable advice, recommendations for reputable suppliers, and even step-by-step restoration guides tailored to your specific model. Remember, a thorough assessment of your Pierce-Arrow's condition and seeking professional guidance are essential steps before embarking on a restoration project. They can help you create a customized plan and ensure you have the necessary resources and skills to restore the vehicle successfully. Does a 1939 Pierce-Arrow exist? ChatGPT I apologize for any confusion caused. I made an error in my previous responses. Pierce-Arrow ceased production in 1938, and there were no 1939 models manufactured. I apologize for the incorrect information. Pierce-Arrow was an American automobile manufacturer that was active from 1901 to 1938. They were known for producing luxury and high-quality vehicles. While they produced several iconic models, the company faced financial difficulties during the Great Depression, leading to their closure in 1938. If you are interested in restoring a vintage Pierce-Arrow, you may want to consider models from the 1930s or earlier. Popular models from the company's history include the Pierce-Arrow Model 48 and the Pierce-Arrow Silver Arrow. Once again, I apologize for the incorrect information in my previous responses. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.

It's difficult to remove the brake drums when the "parking brake" is still "engaged." 🙂

Matt, to prevent a future stroke, please don't ever buy a Pierce-Arrow, especially not a 1925-28 Series 80/81, whose hot idle oil pressure is 1-2 psi--per the manual. On the other hand, the same cars can easily generate 80+ psi on initial startup at 1,000 rpm, which is why they have 100 psi oil gauges, and 20-25 psi at hot cruise is just fine. I've had explained to me by more knowledgeable long-time owners that Pierces rely on oil volume rather than psi. I have carefully read Pierce's Engineering Committee minutes from the late 1910s, and one item there was to substitute a 100 psi gauge for the previous 50 psi gauge for 1918 48 dual valve models, presumably for the same reason. Trust other Lincoln K owners to tell you what is normal.

You are, Bernie, but now it's your hobby! 🙂

Nah, there's likely an issue in the relief bypass, Matt. Someone else was having that problem on another make in the last week. Welcome to the Inverse Midasian Syndrome (IMS) Club, of which I'm a charter member. Since King Midas had the touch of gold, whenever everything we touch turns to caca, that's the Inverse Midasian Syndrome... Once you can name it, you can deal with it. Patience, my friend, this too will pass.

And the 1929 Pierce-Arrow ad headlined and themed "The Pierce-Arrow Sort of People..." sorry I don't immediately have a digital copy to post.

Matt, when installing new hoses, I have learned to put authentic clamps in the center of each hose, snug enough that they don't flop around, and use worm drive modern clamps initially and until after 20 or 30 heating and cooling cycles, during which a bond develops between hose and neck. After such a period, remove one modern clamp at a time by "breaking the circle" (completely separate the tab from the gear) and slide the authentic clamp into place and tighten. The authentic clamps are nearly impossible to bend back into shape once their "circle" is broken.

But I wear the years reasonably well.....

Great! You can buy me dinner and drinks!

Ed is to the right of Attila the Hun and Genghis Khan....

I'd know you anywhere, Ed! 🙂

The attached two images were posted some time ago on this site and I saved them, but they may be just the most common variations and do not show model 143A. And @old car fan rebuilds vacuum tanks and is the pre-eminent authority available to us and is very highly regarded among us frequent fliers on this site. My own take is that this is an unusual tank which can only be identified by someone who owns or has owned a vehicle so equipped.

Godfrey Daniels! Sweet Mother of Pearl!

Is the Exxon Valdez on the tour?

Here's what I have: front width 32-1/2, rear width 37-3/4, 16-1/4 depth at rear mounting hole, Photos attached. Not sure this 1948 98 (new C body with straight 8 engine) item will work on yours. Perhaps some Olds guru has a parts manual and can check for us. Photos attached. NOTE: I'd loaded the photos and was just ready to post when @NailheadBob (thank you!) came through for us--98 will not fit yours. I'll post anyway for the benefit of the next guy with a 98.

I'll drag it out and measure and photograph and post here, but this is from a 1948 98 which was the new C body shared with 1949 98 and with 1948-49 Cadillacs (except 75 series).

What series Olds for 1948? I have available a 98 series cover and hood latch, which should also fit 1949 98, and latch is likely also good for 1948-49 Cad except 75.

AND...the sediment also settles out in the oils galleys/galleries and in the crankshaft and other oil passages. Attached are two photos of a friend removing "crank turds" from a 1919 Pierce-Arrow crankshaft. How much oil do you think was getting through these occluded "arteries"?

Touche! Nicely stroked, @m-mman!!

Points gap is listed as 0.145-0.18, 34 degrees cam angle, timing at IGA mark

My reference at hand (MoToR manual 1935-46) says *1935* LaSalle 8 plug gap is 0.025-0.027

I had one years ago. Drive a HV-12 like you would a Ford V8 from which it was derived: Wind it out, don't expect torque at lugging speeds like other 12s of the 1930s. The Ocee Ritch book had a lot of common-sense mods, mostly invisible, which addressed the engineering shortcomings of that engine.

One thing to consider is that the point gap (e.g. 0.020) is just the mechanical expression of the gap needed to achieve specified DWELL **when the cam is new**. As the lobes wear, the point gap specified no longer produces the specified DWELL/CAM ANGLE and the latter is what makes the car run well. For example, about 60 years ago as a young man, I acquired a 1950 Pontiac 6 with >90,000 miles. When I replaced the points as part of the first tuneup under my ownership I set the point gap at 0.020 (as I recall) and the engine ran like hell. I borrowed a dwell meter (I said I was young) and the dwell was 'way off. By trial and error, I had to reduce the point gap to about 0.014 to achieve the specified dwell, and the car ran well. (A few years later I would have replaced the distributor but I was an impoverished student at the time.) Assuming that you will not be replacing the distributor or its cam, consider adjusting the point gap narrower in 0.002 increments and check the dwell at each of those settings. When you've found the sweet spot, make a note of it for future reference.

Gas tank shape is right for a Pierce, and if those are 3/4-elliptical rear springs that's another commonality.