Grimy

YOU are the "big Sir," Ed; that location is Big SUR...... 🙂

Where's the Travelodge? Used to be against the back wall.

It would not be word-economical to describe that relationship with 100% accuracy when used as a reference or qualifier. At face value, "fraternal grandparents" would be the grandparents of your brother or sister (not "step" siblings), and therefore *your* grandparents, nonne?

Pardon my redundancy, as WC Fields was wont to remark. Or was this a test?

Good eye, Wayne. The drum headlights make it a late 1921 or a 1922 6-66. The lack of a sidemounted spare means it's not a 1923.

I'm not sure what "luxurious" equipment could be attached to a Series 80. I see a trunk and rear bumperettes which were not standard equipment; the visor was standard equipment. This is indeed a 'coach' (lower-case c, 2-door sedan) within the "Coach" (capital C) lower-cost Series 80--about $650 less for the 4-door sedan than the original "Deluxe" S80. The S80 was targeted at the Packard Single Six but when it came out as "deluxe" series it was priced $650 higher than Packard 6 generally model for model. Within a year came the more competitive Coach Series 80 which had a flat roof (vs. slightly domed for Deluxe), one-piece windshield (vs 2-pc), grained steel window moldings (vs mahogany), and (4-door sedans) angular vs. radiused quarter windows.

My technique for checking for clogged exhaust is this: Attach a vacuum gauge to a warmed up engine. Have an assistant hold the accelerator at about 1,500 rpm *for fully TWO minutes* while you monitor the vacuum gauge. It will take about 15 seconds for the gauge to stabilize. Make a (mental) note of the initial *stabilized* vacuum gauge reading, then note the reading at the end of two minutes. If you have a clogged exhaust system, the vacuum gauge reading will continually decrease from the initial stabilized reading. This technique obviates any need for disconnecting exhaust components unless and until you get an unsatisfactory result from the 2-minute test.

Mid-1922, according to our own @Bob Jacobsen who has a late 1922 LHD car. I've tagged him in hopes he will provide more info.

Add a magnesium anode (sacrificial material). Your local boat shop will have an assortment. On my 1918 Pierce the anode is a short cylinder drilled lengthwise, with stainless wire hooked into the overflow tube.

John, I'm thinking 1935-36 from the pod-style painted taillight.

Lincoln comes to mind....

It's a DeSoto, so only a six is possible. The car is missing the stainless trim around the 2-piece windshield.

The donut-chaser is far more elegant than the chicken on steroids.... 🙂

Nope, Luca was much better looking! And kinder, too.... 🙂

My experience with modern reproduction "sandwich" gaskets, which have a plastic material in the center to replace banned asbestos, is that they require *multiple* (as many as 5 or 6) re-torquings rather than usually just one re-torque on asbestos-center gaskets. If at all possible, acquire a NOS (New Old Stock) head gasket that still has an asbestos center.

Excellent ideas, @EmTee!! Thank you!

AJ, here in California big rigs climbing long grades will activate their 4-way-flashers below 45 mph to alert those behind that they are going much slower than 4-wheelers. I do the same when trailering up a long, steep grade.

Orin, try being behind someone **on a tour** with those damn flashing LEDs and you won't want to be friendly to them at the next waypoint! My bicycle lights have an option of steady beam or flashing, and I often use them in the steady mode NOT on a tour but on conventional roads, especially where the average speed is 70 or better.

Definitely a 1956.

And also at Walmart online in tubes

Clearly you don't roll with Pierce-Arrow Society members! 🙂 Those of us with easily removable radiator ornaments (meaning 1933 and earlier) invest in plain "parking caps" to put on while we're having a meal or visiting an attraction.

Trunk handles and parking lights differ 1949-50, too.

As I've reported recently in another thread, many years ago I acquired a 90k-mile 1950 Pontiac 6 which called for about 0.021 (maybe 0.020) as a point gap. When I installed new points set to that gap, the engine ran like crap and the dwell angle was 'way off. It's the dwell angle that makes the engine run well, and the point gap is what it takes to get that dwell IF the cam is not unduly worn. So to get the proper dwell angle (and make the engine run well) on that Pontiac, I had to reduce the point gap to 0.014 due to a very worn cam. That took trial and error, reducing the point gap in 0.002 increments. Then I wrote in my logbook to set the points at 0.014 in the future unless I had changed the distributor or its cam. The idea is to make sure the specified dwell is achieved even if you "violate" the point gap spec. THEN set the timing with a warmed-up engine at slow idle.

It was never promised, and you failed to buy me dinner and drinks there as was mentioned in one of these threads prior to the Meet....

And the pot calls the kettle black....... 🙂