Grimy

Ken, please don't accept tire pressure recommendations from the 1925 owner's manual! Tire construction, especially materials used, is different today. As to markings on sidewalls of your Lesters, note whether tire pressure marking is a "recommended" or "maximum." I don't have Lesters on any car any more, although I did on the 1925 P-A coupe equipped with 22-in tires. Suggest you *experiment* with different pressures to see what's best for your driving conditions (I'm in the SF Bay Area) and minor deviations from either "recommended" or "maximum" are not going to be safety issues at the speeds at which we drive.

@KEK Hugh can give you better advice on your 1925 Buick, but I have had 600x22 tires on my two 1925 Pierce-Arrow Series 80 (down to one now) and I find they run better at 36-38 psi, AND that tire pressure affects front wheel performance. So I suggest you experiment with different tire pressures. These were among the first "balloon" and "low pressure" tires but "low" is relative to the "high" pressure tires Terry was talking about. I'm envious that you found a shop that could dynamically balance your wheels, and that they came out so well in terms of balance. When you mention "changing wheels," you should only change RIMS as the hubs are vastly different and not interchangeable.

I couldn't tell from photo, but is it slightly curved? If so, it's a "short stick" Cad-LaS 1937-48. Some, like my 1939 75 of happy memory, had a longer tube so one would not have to remove the hood side to check the oil. I *believe* the short stick was used on all at least from 1941 forward after the removable hood side panel had been incorporated into the hood itself. The Willys dipstick is straight and perhaps 1/8" thick, much thicker than the curved Cad unit. I can check Willys stick length later today.

I thought the V was for Valiant. The Vomit convertibles had a Throw-Up Top..... 🙂

@KEK the factory tool was a socket to fit the nut with a handle at 90 degrees. The handle is *short,* 6" or less. The bolts are soft steel, probably no more than Grade 2, so on my cars I tighten with a similarly short-handled ratchet rather than a torque wrench. I'll bet I don't put more than 35 lbs torque. When replacing a rim and tire on a wheel, I leave the car jacked up and spin the tire slowly looking for runout, using a short piece of 4x4 or a tool box, aligned with the length of the car and next to the 6 o'clock position on the tire, as a reference. With chalk or tape, mark any areas that are too far to the OUTside of the car. A little more oomph is then applied to the two mounting bolts on either side of the high spot. Spin it again and see if there's improvement. I think the usual cause is too much paint on either the rim or the felloe--or both. If the problem is really bad, remove rim and use extremely fine sandpaper on a place where it won't show to thin out the layer(s) of paint. Terry's idea is a good one, but I wouldn't reduce pressure to under 30 psi. BTW, I never run more than 55 psi on rears and 50-52 on fronts on the high-pressure tires on my 1918 Pierce and my 1922 Paige, and there's no adverse wear pattern after thousands of miles. Now--how to balance these wheels (fronts only)? Try driving first to see if you really need to, because this is time-consuming. Have a large sheet of paper available to record the following 10 spins: With one front wheel jacked up, spin the wheel in direction of forward rotation and note the stopped position of the valve stem in "clock time" (face of clock position, e.g., 7 o'clock, 2 o'clock). Do this TEN times. Look for a pattern--perhaps most stopped positions will be between 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock. In the latter case, we'll average the numbers out and say 3 o'clock. Move the tire and wheel so that the stem is at 3 o'clock. When the stem is at 3 o'clock (in our example), the heaviest part of the tire-rim assembly is at SIX o'clock, so you put weights at TWELVE o'clock, just opposite the heaviest part. Rinse and repeat, but you can probably get by with 5 spins. (I said it is time-consuming!)

As the owner of a Travelodge Model A, I'll mention that an impeccably restored Model B was shown at the PAS annual meet in NY a couple of weeks ago, and it was awarded 1st in the 1936-38 class.

Don't forget Pierce-Arrow trucks and motorcycles! I think we are quibbling about a misplaced modifier, as I think Ed intended to say that the Pierce-Arrow name was never sullied by placing it on a medium-priced car such as Junior Packards and LZs, NOT that all they made was high-end autos. Am I right, Ed? 🙂 🙂

In my experience it's pretty normal for an updraft carb to leak for only a few seconds after the engine is shut down. Gasoline vapor in the intake manifold condenses and falls by gravity into the carb whose bowl is already full--where else can it go? Stromberg UUR2s (and others) have a tube to discharge this overflow through the splash pan to the ground.

We're all delighted that you were not chagrined in Chagrin Falls, Matt! (Sorry, I couldn't resist...)

How long is the stick from the base of the cap? My 1948 Willys L-4 uses that arrangement, and I can measure mine--but I don't need another.

If he's a California resident, make sure he knows that a trailer rated at 10,000 gross or more (i.e., most goosenecks) require a Class A Commercial or Non-Commercial driver's license. I know you have one, but the triennial special physical exam can be a financial pain for those towing for fun, and that becomes an *annual* special physical at age 75. That's why many Calif collectors order hitch-pull trailers with 12k or better components but "administratively downrated" on their VIN-spec stickers to 9,995 lbs so that their Class C (auto) driver's license will suffice. If his existing trailer is like that and can accommodate a 7.5-ft tall car, I'm interested!

They are a FigNewton of your imagination!

Charging participants vs. charging spectators: Overhead has to be paid by SOMEONE. Parking lot shows rarely can control public access, so spectators are free. Lighten the load on participants by free food or vouchers for same, especially since the event is a promo for the restaurant.

Thank you for this article @Stude Light. The issues mentioned (engine speed, detergent/dispersant, types of ZDDP--all designed for low-speed engines) seem *just right* for our pre-war cars, especially the earlier ones. For example, my 1918 Pierce has a 2500 rpm redline and never sees above 1700 rpm; the 1925 with a 3000 rpm redline never sees above 2200 rpm, and the 8-cyl engines with peak hp at 3400 rpm never see above 2700 rpm. I've been using Rotella in my fleet of old iron, and my F350 diesel, for years.

Returning to the issue mentioned at the top of this page about the filler neck on an angle at the very top of the core: To avoid puking coolant as it expands while heated, top off ONLY when hot or up to operating temperature. I have the same issue on my 1934 and 1936 Pierces. When doing a cold refill, as when changing coolant, put in only 80% of published capacity, warm the car up and THEN top off.

Tell us his technique to make them "come apart easily" please....

Incremental, one-at-a-time changes are the right way to go.

I'll take the 1933 Pierce 12....

Maryland car is a 1935 (note radiator shell and exterior horns, among other differences); the Florida car is a 1936.

No, from FL, and I'll let Ed answer your question in more detail. This car received the Weis Award (Best of Show), which it utterly ran away with.

Just don't get caught running Montana plates in California if you have a California driver's license!

Well, there is always the tractor mechanic's old stand-by for when it has to be fixed NOW: Indian Head gasket shellac. But the only way to remove the hose in the future is by slicing it longitudinally and peeling it off the neck.

Don't know if this will work for you, Matt, but I've learned the hard way over the years to fit authentic clamps in the center of a piece of hose, snug enough that they won't flop around, and use modern worm gear clamps on the ends until 20-30 heating-cooling cycles have elapsed to create a bit of a bond between the hose and neck. That is, you'll have four clamps on one section of hose for awhile. Then, one at a time, remove a modern clamp by opening it completely, breaking the circle, and slide the authentic clamp into place and tighten. The rationale is that I find it nearly impossible to re-shape a "broken"/"open" authentic clamp end so that it fits properly.

Pretty sure I remember him saying that 'padgett' was his grandfather's name, so I suspect his true name is totally different. Try other forums?

Not at all! This one has had the same NY owner for >30 years. I saw the Golisch car at the Stockton guy's place five years ago and a restoration hadn't been started--and it will be a long and tough one.