Grimy

I am most certainly NOT a tax professional, but my understanding is that if two **ELIGIBLE** vehicles were sold within the same tax year, one at a profit, one at a loss, it appears that the gain is offset by the loss to the amount of the gain--but no more (absent any other investment gains/losses). However, from your examples, I think IRS and your state tax authority would construe that the Porsche is/was maintained as a collectible, but that the Honda is/was maintained as a daily driver--in which case the Honda would seem to NOT be an eligible vehicle. You may be able to overcome that apparent presumption with some documentation. As always in such cases, however, don't rely on free internet advice but pay a tax professional for advice and retain any emails from such a person to prove that you made that effort to comply with applicable laws. And their fee is probably deductible.

Not uncommon for large-engine 6V cars, if you're referring to a slow-turning-when-hot starter. The easy and cheap stuff first: Do you have double-ought 00 (very heavy) battery cables, recently cleaned on all ends, including the ground attachment? Then measure voltage at battery and at starter while cranking--how much voltage drop? Measure voltage at coil when cranking, too.

Matthew, consider joining one or more websites focused on towed RV units (travel trailers), check bulletin boards (or post your wants) at local RV parks, and join the free forum www.thedieselstop.com devoted to Ford diesels which will give you much more understanding to the pros and cons of different models. Look for someone who is a recreational RV-er who has aged out of that hobby and wants his truck to go to a worthy Next Custodian.

For the external, contracting-band brakes, there must be enough free play cold or at rest so that clearance is maintained when the drum has expanded when hot. For my 1918 Pierce and 1922 Paige, I leave at least 0.010 clearance on the external band. For the internal expanding brakes, about 0.006 seems right on these particular cars.

Not in Califunny! Biennial smog inspections of diesel pickups required for 1976 and newer. Matthew, since you're new to California you should know that it is the SELLER's responsibility to give you a valid smog test, which is good for only 60 (or maybe 90) days from the date it was done.

Perhaps beyond your budget, but the best 7.3 is the 1999-2002 which has a 4-speed 4R100 near-bulletproof automatic trans if not a 6-speed stick, and HEUI fuel injection. Turbos were added, IIRC, to the 7.3 in mid-1994 and are VERY desirable.

Al, I agree that the Pierce 38 hp (including dual-valve Series 31) were competitors of the Loco 38. Hope to see you in Twin Falls!

The Continental 10A engine was used in 1925-26 Paige 6-70s, and is a slightly improved version of the earlier 8A and 9A engines, which use the same gasket set. 3.75 bore, 5.0 stroke for 331 cid. I have a backup 10A engine no. 154522 (the subject one is 153601) from a 1925 Paige 6-70, and my slightly later crankcase has a casting date of 6/20/25. So this one is definitively a 1925. The flat radiator means 1924 or later (earlier ones were veed). The Bill Roberts website www.wcroberts.org says that the last Daytona was built in 1923. Wheelbase for the 6-66 (1921-22), and 6-70 (1923-26) is 131 inches. I own a 1922 6-66 Larchmont II 4-passenger sport phaeton. If anyone wants to resurrect this one, I do have available the 1925 6-70 frame and some springs, steering box, and front axle. The trans and rear axle have gone to put other cars back on the road.

Afterthought: Al, if you'll be at the Glidden in Twin Falls, you are welcome to ride and drive too.

Al, yes, 4.5 x 5.5 bore & stroke for 525 cid out of six cylinders in both single-valve and dual valve engines. In my shop I have a extra set of used piston and rod assemblies from Jack Passey's estate, hanging upside down from a piece of conduit thru the big ends, with a sign reading "Pierce-Arrow wind chimes." Those engineering notes as reprinted in the PAS magazine contain discussions on how the company could achieve better volumetric efficiency in the wake of, and to compete with, the new Cadillac V8 and the Packard Twin Six, both of which appeared for 1915. To achieve parity, Pierce engineers calculated that they would need 3-inch valves (in the single valve engines) which would require heavy springs and would be noisy and quickly warp. So they tried dual valves (4 valves per cylinder) of 1.5 inches diameter. To do so, they went to removable heads. Lifters are exposed. The primary vulnerability of the DV engines lies in the minimal metal left between adjoining valve seats. This is aggravated by the sharp edges at the top of each bore, making that metal susceptible to overheating and cracking. Keep your DV cool! Accordingly, during a rebuild, the Best Practice is to NOT overbore but to sleeve each cylinder back to standard, or even slightly less than standard, then chamfer the top edge to a 45-degree angle, to minimize hot spots. The dual valve engines LOVE to climb hills! They are total torque monsters.

Jeff, try riding in a Pierce 48 dual valve (1918 48-B-5, 1919-20 Series 51), which the factory claimed had 40% more horsepower than the single valve engines. Pierce never mentioned bhp in their advertising, but some engineering notes say the dual valve tested at 121 bhp. If you'll be at the Glidden in Twin Falls next month, you can ride in my 48-B-5, and drive it if you'd like.

I had the same problem with a 1964 Cadillac Fleetwood 60S with TH400, and the issue was the 4-inch piece of rubber tubing connecting the steel vacuum tube to the modulator at a 90-degree angle and thus subject to a lot of flexing. I had to look closely at the small piece of hose to determine that it was compromised. You say you've checked "all of the above," but did you replace that PIA small piece? I was 10 miles from home when this happened to me, and I found that if I ran the car up to 30 mph in first (no upshift), momentarily placed the selector in neutral, then back to drive, I was in 3rd gear. For those more skilled than I in TH400s, you might want to tell them whether that trick works on yours.

Clean out oil passages and any sludge traps in the crankshaft!

Here's Ed maneuvering this outstanding Duesenberg into the transport after the show. He was very tired but very HAPPY!

The Godfather didn't tell me about that one....you could have said it was the factory governor.

Are you sure you can finish by then? LOL

Grimy's Law of How Long Projects Take: * Figure out how long it SHOULD take (e.g. 2 hrs) * Double the digit (4) * Move to the next higher increment of time (day) * Therefore, a project which SHOULD take 2 hrs will actually take 4 days. You'll never be wrong, but occasionally will get lucky.

Now that's a great clue for us in the Bay Area! I'll see you on the field tomorrow, Ed.

Sorry I'm late to this party. I agree completely with David (Trimacar) that the bow and arrow are available from Blonder-Murray in Gig Harbor, WA, and that they can be soldered or epoxied in place (use a jig to hold the archer firmly). This archer seems to be in pretty decent condition, so I'd probably just replace the bow and arrow. I caution against having an archer replated, however, as the grinding process invariably causes loss of a significant amount of detail. In one's archer has bad plating, I recommend purchasing one of American Arrow's excellent quality stainless reproductions. For my 1930, the quite-decent original archer (a different, helmeted archer used 1928-30) and cap are in my display case as their condition is not consistent with that of the restored car, and the car sports an American Arrow reproduction archer and cap. And by all means, the new owner should join the Pierce-Arrow Society for superb technical support, excellent publications, wonderful activities, AND a free download of the Operation & Care (Owner's) Manual. If he waits to join until September 1, one year's dues will get him membership for the balance of 2018 and all of 2019. www.pierce-arrow.org There's enough on the public (non-members) side of the site to keep him amused for a couple of hours, and much more on the members-only side of the site accessible by username and password once he joins. The tech support is especially important for this orphan marque, as Pierce never produced a shop manual for any of its cars. Unfortunately, the last Owners Manual with any mechanical care info is 1929, but since the 1929 and 1932 8-cylinder engines are almost identical, he should also download (free) a 1929 Operation & Care (owner's) Manual once he joins.

Some of us have several cars, each much older than those in your fleet, my friend. I'd like to buy ONE set that I can move from car to car.

Agree! I had a 1934 56S with 5-wheel equipment for 40 years, and the proportions are right for a 50 series. Had insert soft top which apparently has been converted in this case to a sunroof, or at least opened up for that purpose.

Thank you very much, Mercer09, but I'm just passing on the info that prior generations of Pierce aficionados read, saved, documented, and interpreted. It's tough when there are (1) no factory service manuals (Pierce never published any), (2) no supersession info in which later parts replaced original parts, and (3) no factory records left--as they were fed to the furnace in 1938. Thanks to engineers who kept their own notes and made them available decades later, saved service bulletins to dealers, etc. Here's one for amusement: In early 1932 Pierce was apparently very proud of its new synchronized gearbox, so made an offer through dealers to heavily subsidize its installation in customers' 1929 (3-speed crash box), 1930 (4-speed Clark crashbox, one year only), and 1931 (crashbox with button-in-knob freewheeling) cars. So a 1932 box can be factory-authorized in a 1930, but I know of only one such car existing today. We know of that through a dealer service bulletin, which the Pierce-Arrow Society reprints for its members.

Depends on what the manufacturer called it! In those days, sometimes going from "base" to "next higher" got you a second taillight, passenger sunvisor, passenger wiper (as well as a bit more chrome) that often were not available for dealer installation on the "base" models, and those items were deemed essential. Please read the HCC article on the 1940 DeSoto in the current issue which is marked October 2018.

Harsh, but generally true. However, business coupes (and in the 1950s "business sedans" using 2-door sedan bodies) were sometimes available in higher trim grades, such as the 1940 Desoto "Custom" (vs. basic "Deluxe") business coupe in the Hemmings Classic Car just out. And in the 1930s, people who were NOT outside salesmen or delivery persons, but who had a need to carry more goods than people, often opted for a 2-passenger coupe with a deep trunk--such my own father who had a 1937 Ford DELUXE 2-passenger coupe when he married my mother.

You have a superb memory, Ed. It has been (only) nine years since I was there. Congratulations, pughs, I'm delighted that this car will now get the attention and love it so richly deserves!