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About ADade

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  • Birthday 07/10/1950

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    Bay Village, OH

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  1. On a slightly different topic -- does anybody have an OEM valve from a 1918 Buick 4-cyl they'd be willing to loan me (I'll return)? We're contemplating using Chevy small block valves in this rebuild, and they appear to match the valves that came out of my engine, but I'm 99% sure the valves we took out are not OEM, and we're just trying to identify the difference between the OEM and Chevy valves.
  2. Larry -- I don't know why the parts appear to be brass in the photo -- they're not, and they don't look like that in person.
  3. Sorry - 1918 Buick E4-34 One other thing that has us scratching our heads - the diameter of my shafts on the rocker arm supports are 437 thousands. We broke one of the supports and I got one replacement from Dean Tryon and another from Larry Schramm -- both have shafts of 420 diameter, so the rockers don't fit. Larry helped me get mine welded, so I can easily use that, but I'm mystified at the differences. Could this have been a mid-production run change?
  4. Need some (additional) advice on the valves on my 1918 4-Cyl: 1. On the rocker arms there are two oil holes. The one on the rod end (red arrows) the oil holes have felt inserts that we should be able to remove and replace with new, clean felt, right? 2. On the axle portion of the rocker there appears to be a cap (blue arrow) that retains what we suspect is another felt oil pad. Should we attempt to remove the cap to replace that pad as well? Suggested procedure for such a move without damaging the cap? 3. Valves. This car was restored in the 1950's and the valves we removed from it appear to match Chevrolet small block valves. Does anybody have the exact specs for the OEM valve? Exhaust and intake seem to be identical. I'm willing to have valves made if there's a reason we can't use the Chevy valves, but I don't have specs for the OEM valves. I discussed this with Terry Wiegand -- he has a drawing of the 6-cyl valve, but they're not the same. Would appreciate opinions or assistance.
  5. ADade

    Broken Rocker

    Thanks everybody for the thoughts and suggestions. I found one, thanks to Larry Schramm in Detroit.
  6. ADade

    Broken Rocker

    Our research indicates it's cast steel. We're contemplating drilling up from the bottom, tapping and putting in a plug to hold the two pieces together if we can't find an unbroken one.
  7. I'm very close to getting my 1918 34 roadster running, but just found that one of the rockers is broken (see pictures). I could glue the part together and use it as a pattern to get a new one forged, but it would be much easier if I could find one. Anybody have suggestions?
  8. Thanks -- I think I found someone in Cleveland
  9. I just disassembled the brakes on my car and found they need new linings. Anybody have a recommendation for someone who can do that for me?
  10. When I got my 1918 4-cyl the headlight lenses had been smashed, and now I've had the reflectors and trim rings re plated and I'm ready to put everything back together, but I need the glass lenses. It looks to me like the lenses are held in by clips on the back of the trim rings that hold the glass during installation and then they're held in place by pressure between the trim rings and a small rope pad on the reflectors. Here are my questions: - Am I thinking about this correctly? - Are the correct lenses clear or fluted? - I measure the correct size to be 9" diameter -- am I right? - Should I just go get 9" glass circles cut, or is there a source for lenses? = Anybody know the specs on the bulbs?
  11. Here's a photo from the bottom of the bell housing
  12. OK -- I removed the third floorboard and there is indeed an inspection window, but there's no cover (and no holes to affix a cover). Here's what I see. What's the verdict?
  13. My car is a four cylinder. I was just under the car and it sure looks to me like a multi-disk clutch, but I've got conflicting responses here. Is the consensus that the six cylinder cars in 18 were multi-disk and the fours were cone?
  14. If I'm not mistaken, my 18 Buick has a leather cone clutch. I'm about to pull the transmission for a clean-up and overhaul, and wondered if there's a better solution than leather - like kevlar maybe? Anybody have experience with this and/or know someone who could make the conversion for me? Suggestions very welcome.
  15. Been doing quite a bit of work lately. Here's what's done: - Removed oil sump, cleaned out, new gasket, reinstalled - New plug wires. Points, rotor cap look great - New fan belt - leather. Had to get the 2 1/2" belt cut down to 2" and I think it's still a tad too wide. May go to a rubber belt - Removed fuel tank, drained and it's out being blasted, lined and primed. Back this week - Haven't figured out yet how to unstick the float on the fuel gauge that screws onto the tank. Cleaned with CLR and soaked in penetrating oil. Still stuck - Blew out fuel line - Removed carb, washed out with carb cleaner and made sure all parts move freely. Reinstalled - Opened and inspected vacuum chamber to insure float not stuck. Interior looks almost new. - Washed out radiator and put in new coolant. - New radiator and water pump hoses - New tires on order - Coker 30 x 3 1/2 black. Backorderdered till Sep 20th - Cleaned up leather with Griot's 3-in-1 leather treatment. That stuff is magic! Still to do: - Open up oil pump and clean - Paint & reinstall fuel tank - Install new battery Anybody have other thoughts?