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About ADade

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  • Birthday 07/10/1950

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    Bay Village, OH

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  1. I can't tell either. I'm 99% sure they're not original.
  2. Ben, after being in exactly the same position you describe (I wanted to install a new Olson's gasket after the home made one leaked), and reading your post about the cotter pins, I put the project on top of my list. I dropped the pan and looked up. Huh? No cotter pin -- no place to put a cotter pin! See photos here: I have to conclude that when my father-in-law (master machinist) restored the car in the mid '50s, he recognized the problem you outline and replaced the pistons (and wrist pins and connecting rods) and perhaps bored the block to accept (1956 version) modern pistons. So it looks like my sleepless nights worrying about the issue are at an end. Please nobody tell me I'm just blind!
  3. I love this little car, Terry -- and huge thanks to you and Larry Schramm for all your help getting it back on the road!
  4. Well to give you the "rest of the story" as Paul Harvey used to say, I also want to replace the oil pan gasket, so I do need to take off the pan It makes sense to inspect the wrist pin when the pan is off. As to the float, I have a new one made of plastic, so I'll use that rather than a cork one. It was designed for a Model A Ford, but should work just fine. I used the same thing for the float in the fuel tank.
  5. I've been working for some time on my father-in-law's 1918 four cylinder two seater, and we've finally got it running reliably (at least it seems so). Long hours have gone into getting the car mechanically back in shape that I just couldn't resist sharing our success. We still have a few items to sort out before I can tour with the car: - Adjust brakes - Install new float in oil sump - Finalize a couple of electrical improvements But before the leaves fall, I should be driving the car! WHOO HOO! Pictures below. I tried to upload a video of the engine running (quite fun to watch with its exposed valve train), but it was too large.
  6. On a slightly different topic -- does anybody have an OEM valve from a 1918 Buick 4-cyl they'd be willing to loan me (I'll return)? We're contemplating using Chevy small block valves in this rebuild, and they appear to match the valves that came out of my engine, but I'm 99% sure the valves we took out are not OEM, and we're just trying to identify the difference between the OEM and Chevy valves.
  7. Larry -- I don't know why the parts appear to be brass in the photo -- they're not, and they don't look like that in person.
  8. Sorry - 1918 Buick E4-34 One other thing that has us scratching our heads - the diameter of my shafts on the rocker arm supports are 437 thousands. We broke one of the supports and I got one replacement from Dean Tryon and another from Larry Schramm -- both have shafts of 420 diameter, so the rockers don't fit. Larry helped me get mine welded, so I can easily use that, but I'm mystified at the differences. Could this have been a mid-production run change?
  9. Need some (additional) advice on the valves on my 1918 4-Cyl: 1. On the rocker arms there are two oil holes. The one on the rod end (red arrows) the oil holes have felt inserts that we should be able to remove and replace with new, clean felt, right? 2. On the axle portion of the rocker there appears to be a cap (blue arrow) that retains what we suspect is another felt oil pad. Should we attempt to remove the cap to replace that pad as well? Suggested procedure for such a move without damaging the cap? 3. Valves. This car was restored in the 1950's and the valves we removed from it appear to match Chevrolet small block valves. Does anybody have the exact specs for the OEM valve? Exhaust and intake seem to be identical. I'm willing to have valves made if there's a reason we can't use the Chevy valves, but I don't have specs for the OEM valves. I discussed this with Terry Wiegand -- he has a drawing of the 6-cyl valve, but they're not the same. Would appreciate opinions or assistance.
  10. Thanks everybody for the thoughts and suggestions. I found one, thanks to Larry Schramm in Detroit.
  11. Our research indicates it's cast steel. We're contemplating drilling up from the bottom, tapping and putting in a plug to hold the two pieces together if we can't find an unbroken one.
  12. I'm very close to getting my 1918 34 roadster running, but just found that one of the rockers is broken (see pictures). I could glue the part together and use it as a pattern to get a new one forged, but it would be much easier if I could find one. Anybody have suggestions?
  13. Thanks -- I think I found someone in Cleveland
  14. I just disassembled the brakes on my car and found they need new linings. Anybody have a recommendation for someone who can do that for me?
  15. When I got my 1918 4-cyl the headlight lenses had been smashed, and now I've had the reflectors and trim rings re plated and I'm ready to put everything back together, but I need the glass lenses. It looks to me like the lenses are held in by clips on the back of the trim rings that hold the glass during installation and then they're held in place by pressure between the trim rings and a small rope pad on the reflectors. Here are my questions: - Am I thinking about this correctly? - Are the correct lenses clear or fluted? - I measure the correct size to be 9" diameter -- am I right? - Should I just go get 9" glass circles cut, or is there a source for lenses? = Anybody know the specs on the bulbs?