Grimy

FWIW, I agree with mcdarrunt that it's for an 8BA; I changed a few of those MANY years ago.

No, the LaSalle straight 8 is an L-head engine, so that's not a Buick block. Some Olds 8 parts may interchange.

Cars are on Mason St, looking uphill toward California St

The points' contact surface may have acquired a glaze of oxidation, especially if they were open. The quick-n-dirty is to give them a shot of NON-flammable solvent such as electrical contact cleaner or brake cleaner, rotate till they're closed, and draw an UNcoated business card or piece of 3x5 card through the points against their spring pressure.

In support of Marty's recommendation, I have first hand knowledge (although it didn't happen to me--YET) of two instances in which a blowout on one tire took out the adjoining tire as well. In one of those cases, the dually tow vehicle and the expensive aluminum trailer wound up on their sides in the median and were totaled; the $400K car in the trailer was hanging like a bat from its straps and had its left side fenders caved but repairable. I use a non-contact thermometer to check each tread, sidewall, and hub temp at every pitstop.

Sadly, this car--and engine--are not in the Pierce-Arrow Society's recension tables, meaning that it has not been registered with PAS since the Society's founding in 1957. What a great find this would have been for the owner had this car survived!

Presumably, the semi-skirted front fenders are 1933, and 1932 would lack the semi-skirts--just like Pierce, owned at the time by Studebaker, and with similar fender lines.

The Marmon was only about 136" wheelbase as I recall, and as plain as a mud fence. How about the Loco Sportif with trans and steering gear 600W that had turned to tar? I made him an offer on the 14,000-mile 1927 Pierce 36 4-p touring that he refused and then sold for that same price to Pat, who re-sold it at Hershey within six months. And I came very close to buying the 1947 Packard-Henney Custom Super Clipper--would have bought it if he'd been anywhere near reasonable; and I provided the dark blue broadcloth for the seats from a 1949 Chrysler Windsor I parted out. Looking forward to telling stories with you at Pebble--thanks for the offer!

Yes, he was! I knew him since the early '60s and over the drinks you'll buy me at Pebble, I'll tell you some great stories--the least of which is how I flat towed his broken u-joint 1925 Marmon that his father purchased new 35 miles with a 1953 Ford....

The ivory-with-black-fenders McFarlan roadster posted by 1937hd45 on page 19 (can't give you a post number anymore because they've gone missing) was owned by the late Cebert Holmes (d. 2013) in Northern CA in the 1980s and (I think) the early 1990s, and was then sold to the late Jack Passey (d. 2015). I don't know where it is now. I rode in the car briefly while Cebert owned it.

28 Chrysler, I *think* you're having fun with us, if I understand correctly that your collection of '13 Pierce parts consists of one hubcap. But if you have a chassis or more, and show us, I'll be glad to pass these lamps along to you.

Sending a PM momentarily, THANK YOU!

Carl, who ya talkin' about? You're two years younger than I am! I'm like Peter Pan in that I don't want to ever grow up! Growing OLD and growing UP are two different things! Merry Christmas!

Prices can be dependent on what other weight/cube shipments the consolidator has to ship at the time, and to which detination. Consolidators (including the USPS) have "block space" contracts with airlines including all-cargo airlines between designated points, in which they are paying for x number of containers/pallets no matter how much or how little is in each container/pallet.

My take is that the primary function of the talc is as dry lube to prevent heat-bonding of a portion of the tube to the casing/carcass--bonding might well cause a tear in the tube. For those in the USA, please note that baby powder no longer contains talc, only cornstarch. But NAPA stores carry "tire talc."

That "packing material" under the rotor was originally a piece of felt which was supposed to receive a drop or two of oil whenever someone pulled the dist cap (i.e., not often). Perhaps someone working on it put way too much oil, beyond the capability of felt to hold, and that might be the source of the oil on your plate. Ben and I differ on Pertronix/electronic ignituion, but when you install it, may I suggest you keep the removed parts in the trunk for a hopefully unnecessary side-of-road repair. My experience has been, if I have it, I won't need it.

And when you mount the rims onto the wheels, be careful that the paint might prevent the rims from fully seating on the felloes. Use a rubber mallet to seat the rims fully, and don't tighten the lug nuts too much as the bolts are soft steel. The original lug wrenches on these cars were only about 4 or 5 inches long, so use far less torque than on demountable wheels. I put a reference (piece of 4x4 lumber or tool box) on the ground lengthwise (paralleling the car) and slowly rotate the wheel to check for runout. If any portion of the installed rim comes closer to the reference point than the others, the lug nuts on either side of that "high point" need to tightened a bit.

John, as a real P-A guy I'd LOVE to have them (see my fleet below). Let me know how to pay you. Merry Christmas! George AKA Grimy

And if the vacuum advance diaphragm is torn, the vacuum getting through the diaphragm may pull oil past the cork seal.

I'm calling it a 1946-48 Plymouth (note the unique stop light and its trim in the center of the trunk lid) but that body was used early in 1949 models as well, until about March IIRC. I like the MoPaR white trim rings on the wheels as opposed to white sidewall tires.

Pilgrim, your picture did not appear but I for one would love to see it. Please let me know if you visit the San Francisco area again, and I'll promise you a day filled with vintage cars. Merry Christmas!

Don't know if it's still available, but appliance touch-up paint in a tiny bottle with a brush in the cap has worked for me.

Let's think about this. Any "grease" (today's definition) channels and is pushed away from the gears unless it is --and remains--completely mixed with "oil." Bear in mind that "axle grease" as specified in pre-1930 (essentially, for non-hypoid) differentials was really not grease as we define it today but rather a heavy oil commonly known as 600W--the dark, smelly, viscous stuff. Today Restoration Supply sells a modern ISO 1500 "Meropa" gear oil suitable for heavily loaded gearbox application. I use it in the diff of my 1918 Pierce because of the leaky felt seal that will require a lot of time and effort to fix. There are also modern ISO 480 and -680 oils designed for gearboxes; I use the 480 in that car's transmission. Given the availability of these modern gear oils, I don't think it wise to add (today's) grease to differential or transmission oil. Additionally, it has been pointed out in these fora that if one installs lip seals on a pre-1930 differential, one should add a vent--because the felt seals served the essential purpose of letting air and pressure in and out. The lip seals seal too well and then a vent is required.

I'll make sure I have a designated driver...

West would NOT be amused.....