Grimy

Sure does!

Neutral start switch out of adjustment? It's at the base of the steering column inside the car. A parking valet killed mine, many years ago, probably by slamming the shifter into PARK.

Bob, I appreciate the insight into New York cops! Since I trained cops in aviation security for 25 years, I have perceived a difference in outlook in PA and NY officers. :-) I'll make sure I have an articulated inspection mirror accessible in case the officer doesn't have one......

On my Aztex triple axle trailer which I call "Fugly" because it is, the VIN sticker is on the inside C portion of the tongue, cleverly positioned by the factory so that to read it, one must lie on his/her back in the dirt. So I did just that and took a photo, which I've printed out and carry with the registration in a manila envelope inside the trailer. As amusing as it would be to watch a trooper try to read it, I've learned in my old age that discretion is often the better part of valor. Don't fail the Attitude Test or commit felony Contempt of Cop!

Jon, I will review and get back to you. A quick one: Among 1929 cars, they were marketed as 133 (wb) and 143 (wb) but the engineering codes were 125 (AKA 133) and 126 (AKA 143). The 125 and 126 designations are everywhere in parts mfrs' catalogs.

Hi, Jon, I agree that this is one of those crazy issues. I suspect that the U-4 was unable to provide sufficient power. The 1929 P-A was all-new, "mistakes were made" as in many introductions of totally new vehicles, and numerous running changes were made in the very similar 1930 and 1931 models. A couple that I know off the top of my head: Mid-1930, Pierce introduced a "kick shackle" on the front of the LF spring "to reduce wheel fight." (My car doesn't have it). The kick shackle occasioned a minor change of shape in the front of the LF fender, and Pierce just had to be symmetrical, so there are different L & R front fender numbers 50 frame numbers after the kick shackle was added. FIVE different radiators were used, but AFAIK, each will interchange with another. This topic brings up the hazards of relying on factory literature which likely went to print before production began. Ideally, as in the case of companies like Buick, factory parts manuals were published covering several year models, and supersessions were usually cited with a previous (original) part number. Not so for Pierce! One parts manual per year, published early on in the year. As production decreased (1,740 cars in 1934 with 3 engines, 4 wheelbases, 19 body styles; 875 cars in 1935; 787 in 1936; 167 for 1937), resources diminished. Apparently NO stand-alone parts manual was printed for 1934, but there is a combined 1934-35 parts manual, yet NO parts manual is known to have been published for the final years of 1936-37-38. And, Jon, thank you for posing the question. We all "know stuff" but it helps to be pushed to validate what we claim off the tops of our heads!

Jon, the parts manuals were done year-by-year, each early in the year. Fortunately the PAS Library has the notes of PAMCC engineers Hale and Anson. Founding PAS member Bernard Weis has listed specifics of running changes from the notes of these engineers in his 'recension tables.' I just looked through that portion of the recension tables pertaining to 1930 C model carburetors, and here's what Bernie Weis has listed about carbs: "Eng. no. 101326 this engine no. starts UU-2 carb instead of previously used U-4. Also different manifold used to #102262. Ref. Hale #2498 4/23/30, Anson #19-10 4/28/30 "Eng. no. 102263 Duplex UU-2 carb with long choke rod used from this engine. (Hale)" I emphasize that I have not personally reviewed the Anson and Hale notes. They are part of the PAS Collection at the AACA Library and copies can be obtained through the AACA librarians.

My opinion differs from Ed's. I have had a 1930 Model B (3.5 x 4.75) for 16 years. On accessories, only the Model C distributor is different from the A & B; starter & generator the same. Early Cs had one barrel carbs, later Cs had the same 2-bbl as A & B; manifolds for 2-bbl Cs interchange with A & B. I haven't researched in the parts manual where this engine lies on the 1 vs 2-bbl carb issue but it's a fairly late engine number. OP, perhaps you can see if yours is 1 bbl or 2 bbl. BLOCKS ARE THE SAME CASTING. So a C (3.375 bore) can be bored out to 3.5 (standard for A & B and use standard not oversize pistons. The market is then not only to C owners but also to B owners--same crankshafts. An A owner with a bad block can use this block IF he uses his A crank and rods.

No governor from the factory; that was likely added when the engine was converted to use as a stationary engine. The exhaust manifold is, as I alluded, a biggie: Cracked manifolds are common. reproduction manifolds are >$2,000. I think it would be worth your while to pull the spark plugs and add about 3 or 4 ounces of a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (or Marvel Mystery Oil available at Walmart & O'Reillys) to each cylinder, then put the plugs back in finger-tight. Let sit for a week before trying to rotate the crankshaft. If it will budge at all when you go to sell it, it will be worth more than a stuck engine. Valves may well be stuck in the guides, prohibiting rotation, but don't worry about those for now. Lump, Seagrave bought Pierce-Arrow 8 and 12 cylinder engines in the 1930s, machined but parts-matched-yet-disassembled. They bought the tooling for these engines when Pierce was liquidated in 1938. Seagrave modified the engines to use dual ignition (2 plugs per cylinder) and other mods. Seagrave used the 8-cyl thru WW2, and the V-12 through the late 1960s, albeit in modified form. I have a 1941 Seagrave 8-cyl as a backup engine. I won't use the dual ignition head, but almost all other components interchange, and it came with TWO of the Delco 662-J distributors used on 1933-36 Pierce 8s. Seagrave 12 engines moved the distributor drive to the front of the engine (2 12-cyl distributors) and thus had different camshafts and timing covers than Pierce 12s, as well as dual ignition heads.

Engine number 102559 was applied to a 1930 Model C (smallest series, 132" wheelbase), bore 3.375, stroke 4.75, for 340 cubic inches. The 1930 Model A (144" wb) had a 3.5 bore, 5.0 stroke for 385 cid; Model B (134 and 139 wb, depending on body style) had 3.5 bore, 4.75 stroke for 366 cid. The good news is that all three blocks are the same casting number, so that the 3.375 bore can be taken out to 3.5 plus up to 0.040 overbore. Obviously, the 4.75 stroke crank can only be used to achieve 366 cid with standard bore (the 5.0 stroke crank is different). We need to see photos of generator, starter, condition of exhaust manifold (this is a biggie), and carburetor to help evaluate. Will the engine "turn over" by crank or is it stuck?

YUP!!! And a couple of dust caps and locks for the hub nuts, too....

I agree completely, and use one! I also carry a battery-powered Milwaukee impact wrench for UNfastening (only) the wheel nuts, and an accessible star wrench and torque wrench for tightening the wheel nuts. Another handy item is a tire iron with a flattened end (or a 30" screwdriver) to insert under the new wheel and tire at the 6 o'clock position to help lift the assembly onto the studs. The older trailer has 15" wheels, and 16s won't fit, so I've had to change a lot of thrown-thread tires--but haven't had any failures from the Goodyear Endurance ST tires--YET....

Not to mention that occasionally when one tandem-axle tire blows, it takes an adjoining tire on the same side with it, leaving you on the side of the road needing TWO spares. I have two 3-axle enclosed trailers, each with two spares and one unmounted tire. The 3rd (presumably good) tire makes it much safer to get to a safe tire-changing location.

Amen! Here in NorCal young females, especially, consider stop signs only as a suggestion which may be freely ignored. And stop signs are definitely ignored if they adjudge your vehicle as one that they'd prefer to NOT be behind. That happened twice to me last month towing a large trailer within 1.5 miles before entering the Interstate. A few years ago some twit blew a stop sign and pulled out in front of my 1925 Pierce (great brakes for the era) and we wound up side by side at a traffic light a long block away. The offending driver looked at me with a guilty face, and I said, "You seem to have much more confidence in 90-year-old brakes than I do." He said nothing but was gone in a flash when the light changed. That said (and I've had this conversation with Jim), I'm leaving stock brakes on all my cars despite driving them a LOT, even the 2-wheel brakes on two of my cars.

And a 1929 engine number can be easily identified as it consists of the letter A followed by four numbers. All other years' engine numbers consist of six numbers, the first two of which tell us the year and model. You'll find the engine number, as Karl has said, on the left side of the block midway, just below the head gasket, on a flat pad, but you may need to use a wire brush to be able to read it.

I'd first check the factory pump, to ensure that the impeller has non-eroded vanes and is firmly attached to the shaft, and that the lower radiator hose (if longer than four inches) is not collapsing at speed/high suction. Is there any foaming at speed or pushing water out the overflow (if so, might indicate that air is being sucked in past the packing)?

A few years ago, a good friend and his wife were at the rear of a HCCA convoy in their early brass T touring when they were rear-ended, in broad daylight, by a semi. Miraculously, they both survived--but only because the wood front seatback broke and they went on their backs on the rear floor--thus avoiding being decapitated by the barbed wire ag fence the car went through at a high rate of speed. They are both OK today. The remains of the T were given to another friend, who has re-restored the car. I've seen photos but don't have any myself. In my fleet, I have seatbelts only in the steel-bodied Jeepster, and am fully cognizant of the risks in operating vehicles with wood-framed bodies.

What he said! It's not hard to drop $15-18K on a full 8-cyl rebuild, $40K on a V-12.

Have you cleaned the oil pump pickup/intake screen during your ownership?

As a follow-on to PFitz's excellent explanation, the suction valve and the atmospheric valve are connected and the overcenter lever must operate sharply and decisively, so that one valve is completely closed while the other is open. Sloppy springs can hinder that, as can whiskery corrosion on the needles and seats (use NYLON brush and carb cleaner), as can roughness on pivot pins (same treatment). Hold the lid vertically, move float up and down while observing tripping action of the two valves, which must snap open and closed. Loose seats can be CAREFULLY staked.

Some of us who have spent time on distant shores hunting men, and being hunted BY them, do not find toy Thompson SMGs and wannabe gangsters amusing.

....and a fluid which will reliably not leak past rings and which can somehow be almost completely removed without spurting all over your nice clean engine compartment, and the residue of which will not emit a mosquito-killing fog over a two square mile area when the engine is next fired up.

I'll bite, Bernie, I want to see a photo of the "four throwns for seats."

Looks great, Terry! I prefer blackwalls on most cars thru 1924 or so, but your car looks terrific with them. My Pierce is on the heavy side, too, so I experimented with pressures and decided to stay with less pressure. Whatever works for each car...

I bought a set of BFG blackwall 33 x 4-1/2 tires for my Paige from Coker about 10 years ago, and I recall that whitewalls were available in the same size THEN. In contrast to Terry's recommendation which is consistent with pressures recommended when these cars were new, I have 35 x 5 tires on my 1918 Pierce and run the rears at 55-60, fronts at 48-52, as recommended by the full-time wrench for a large collection of brass vehicles, and get better steering and ride than at the higher pressures that were common decades ago. Variables MAY be our better roads, and better tire construction. Suggest experimenting with different pressures for your application. On the other hand, I run balloon tires on my 1925 and 1930s cars at 40-42, higher than generally recommended.