old-tank

http://Engine-bearing-failures-and-how-to-avoid-them1.pdf No brand on the bearings and my guess is that it's just inferior bearing material. These bearings were sourced by machine shop. I saw this one time before on a 51 Ford flathead engine that had an undersized crankshaft. It seems that the bearing shell the steel shell is used on all the undersized bearings and the standard bearing too. In this case you end up with a thicker layer of bearing material that might be more likely to crack and flake off. If this was a common bearing I'd look for some better quality ones but in this case I'll be lucky to just find some bearings.

Just a straight forward removal is to remove the bolts and jiggle it a little bit and it comes right out ... then push the bearing shell out.

Front main bearing lower shell, all the others are like that except for the rear main. Rod bearings show very little wear on both sides. I can't find a size stamping on those main bearing shells. I'll have to look at my notes but I think the crank has been turned on the main bearings at least 0.020" undersize.

20 years ago I had to have the crank ground to fit the available bearings... and it seems that the supply is no better now.

The front camshaft bearing had some of the flakes of material around it like I found in the pan and there is a wear pattern. The other camshaft bearings look like they had never been touched by the journals. Otherwise the camshaft and lifters were pristine. The timing chain had a little slop in it but otherwise it was serviceable. The intake ports on the cylinder heads had a buildup of black crusty material that was also on the back of the intake valves and stems. This has nothing to do with the low oil pressure but was probably caused by the repeated percolation on my hot trip this summer. Next I guess I'll punch the Pistons out and plastigauge the main and rod journal bearings. The cylinder still at hone marks after 20 years and 120,000 miles. Hopefully I can reuse the Pistons$$$$$and maybe the bearings$$$$ if they spec out okay.

Not really, it was just run briefly after a cold start before tear down.

Progress, but no diagnosis yet.

The tear down begins.

Tires are bald like most depression cars.

Gauge set and refrigerant just to keep wife from buying a single airline ticket.

What was the final decision on the engine mounts? I am in the process of removing the engine on mine and have noted that if it has power steering the LH exhaust manifold must be remove (only drops out the bottom) and if it has factory air the RH exhaust manifold must be removed. What are you using for lighting? All of my newer led lights glare in direct light but the shadows are no vision ( and all the cordless ones die when needed the most). My old 'drop lights' with incandescent bulbs seemed better, but both the lights and bulbs are hard to find.

It only bounced once...

That is about all I carry. In addition: volt-ohm meter, fuses, service manual or at least wiring diagram, voltage regulator, jumper wires with alligator clips. In 150K miles I replaced water pump once (bearings...leaks you can nurse back home), generators, voltage regulator which is easy, but turned out to be the generator anyhow. BCA roster turned out to be useless, but contacts to new and used parts may be helpful like when I broke an axle shaft that I had overnighted.

That noise is definitely from a failing wrist pin. You need to send that engine to me before you blow it up.

Never any doubt.

A group 31P battery is a better choice and you can use the original retainer.

There is a bracket for that reset cable

I just run it a quart and a half low and avoid situations that slush oil back to that seal.

I use similar to THIS

Anytime the engine is removed and replaced or if the transmission and motor mounts and thrust pattern changed you should readjust the shift linkage. This is more important in the early dynaflow that does not have detents in the transmission for the shifting. Sometimes you have to adjust again after everything is settled. If not adjusted correctly you get function problems or the thing will howl in protest.

The yellow wire to the vacuum start switch on the carb and the red wire to the horn relay are not fuse protected and if shorted will fry the harness causing new problems.

My method form my website

Not as much as I'm interested in that engine!😁. You could have my broken engine. Cheap.

If you use the new supplied outer torque ball retainer with the vulcanized rubber you don't need to set the drag with a dowel or peg. Just use a couple of the shims as gaskets and you are all set.

Organ donor!