old-tank

Chevy stuff will not work. 57-66 nailhead distributors will work. If desired you can convert to electronic (Pertronix)...there are services available to convert to HEI.

That is NOT a common problem with aluminum finned drums. Many reasons for pulling: brake hoses, bleeding deficiencies, contaminated shoes, poor adjustment of shoes (may need to seat...check adjustment every few day for awhile), wheel alignment (excessive toe-out), should have a short and long shoe --- install short shoe toward the front ( I have seen alternate combinations and they all caused pulling)... Willie

There is one bolt under the tail light lens that some forget about. Other than that you need long arms along with various sockets and extensions. It is much easier if the bumper is off.

Now that I have that song stuck in my head, here is your payback

It absolutely did not work in a 55 with rear evaporator. If it does work in yours the only good thing is that you will not have to change the original mineral oil in the compressor. The MSDS for enviro-safe mentions alkanes and LPG which is propane. Here is an alternative that I have used: http://forums.aaca.org/f162/55-c-repair-357523.html Draw your own conclusions after research. PM me for more info...I will not discuss R-152A here. Willie

Mark, that sounds like a neat project and I hope you detail it with pictures and prose. I can't with anything other than a stock brake setup. Hopefully there is a local hotrod fabricator type shop in your area that can help. A friend that had built lots of hotrods with an under floor dual master cylinder had problems with a 54 Buick project similar to yours. He used boosted master cylinder (same one used on other projects) and it would not stop the car! Turned out that the replacement needed a 6:1 pedal advantage vs. the stock 1:1 of the stock setup. Always remember: "when you change one thing you create 3 more problems" Willie

X2...more expensive, but how much is the hassle and ugly factor worth?

I hate to see the rivets and pin ground off, but you really don't 'need' them. It just makes it easier to line everything up. Without some temporary studs, you will find it near impossible to line up hub, drum, wheel and lug bolts. Willie

Push the pistons out. I fabricated a metal plate and using the head bolts and parts of a substantial puller, rigged a method to push on the pistons. Sometimes this will get the whole thing turning; other times I had to remove all the main and rod caps and push individually. Once I did all that work and the machine shop demonstrated some cracks in the block. Willie

The arrow should be the direction of fluid flow and should point to the rear. Metal side of disc toward electrical components; non metal side toward screen shown. Never any sealant, just refrigerant oil; no teflon tape on threads of flare fitting...again, just refrigerant oil. Willie

http://www.1956buick.com/ should have what you need. Contact Budd: rsbudd@gmail.com to be sure you order the right one.

It is hard to tell from the picture, but if you have oil in the coil area, there are other problems that an O-ring will not fix. Anyhow replace the O-ring and leak test.

It is not any easier dealing with them in the USA...

Paul, There is a good chance Fastenal will have the O-ring. Oil should be OK, unless you estimate more than 2 oz lost. The sight glass will soon fail!...that is the last weak point in the system and the replacement even has a moisture indicator. You have to draw the line somewhere on 'original' parts (don't be like the guy that tried to drive a late 40's Buick with the original fuel line just because it was 'original'). Wear gloves when dealing with that dye laced oil...otherwise you will look like you had been fingerprinted like me last year. Willie

Marty at mjexhaust@voyager.net 231-620-9354 cell You will not go wrong. Fair prices, good service...even supplied bend codes for the long tailpipe to avoid oversize shipping costs. Willie

Paul Some more suggestions: If you cannot fix it right away, assume your drier is contaminated with moisture, but you can install another at the line junction in front of the right rear wheel...if you cannotget enough slack, you may need to cut and flare the line...install aftereverything else is installed and leak checked. Sporlan C-053 3/8 flare ( not the C-053S which is asolder unit) is the one I use. Another potential trouble spot is is the sight glass which has O-rings also...I have never been able to replace without breaking the glass so I use a Sporlan SA-13 3/8 flare. I did find a liquid bypass solenoid that is working...I can refurbish for you...trade for some R-12?? Willie

Paul, there is an 0-ring in there that I told you about . Now is your chance to get the undercoating off. Remove the unit, replace O-ring and it should be fine. If not, just find plugs for the connecting pipes...the a/c will work better than before since that would put it into max-a/c mode with no temperature control. By the way that is a liquid bypass the diverts liquid refrigerant back to the compressor when the set temperature is satisfied...just a way to make it less efficient. I have all of mine disabled (removed the ground wire) since around here I need all the cooling I can get. I might have one if you need it...call if interested. Willie

Keith, as alway you have some great ideas. However, they all involve more work and time commitment for OTHER PEOPLE: researching takes time; implementing takes time; monitoring and maintenance takes time. I have a lot of ideas and suggestions, but I don't make public for fear someone will put me to work:eek:. Lead the way! Willie

The best and most specific carb kit HERE: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/History.htm If going with electric chock consider the Edelbrock clone of your AFB. Alway take you old shoes to a local clutch/brake rebuilder and specify linings that most easily stop the car. Most supplied commercial linings are too hard and will not stop the car, prompting many to convert to disc brakes. Willie

The block doesn't matter. Any 322 block can be built with any year internals....for instance a 54 block can be built with 56 pistons and heads (probably a good choice if available). Using 56 pistons with earlier heads can raise the compression, but in some instances the pistons hit the heads. Pistons from most supplier like Egge are a compromise and are used in multiple years.

Casting nos. should be the same both sides and should match the year of the pistons. Post #3 has other casting nos.???

I have seen this before on 56 pinion splines...supposedly more splines were an 'improvement' over the fewer splines on earlier cars.

Bob, as a test remove or vent the dust boot. Last year I changed the boot on my 55 and the pedal stuck down when applied (that was the only thing that I changed)...removed boot and it worked fine. I could see no reason for this either. Willie

Compressed air to blow water out. Any old spark plug when painting.

kinda fishy