Mark Gregush

Check eBay, there was or is a LH one listed.

RE: Hi Mark. The camshaft "drive gear" I mentioned, is the one on the crankshaft. The "driven gear' is on the camshaft. [ auto engineers terms ] I added: "The camshaft gear; there are alignment marks on the end of the camshaft and one on the gear, but no key", in case you might have been looking for a key on the cam shaft.

The camshaft gear; there are alignment marks on the end of the camshaft and one on the gear, but no key.

This is a volume not pressure system. The pressure on the gauge is more to indicate that oil is being pumped. Ford Model A's worked the same way at about the same pressures. For an oil filter you would want to use a full flow type, same as what Model A's would use in a non modified system, Ford Model T's can use the same filter with their gravity system.

You might also ask on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America; https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/forums/20/1/1912-1928.html

Try also posting on the Dodge Brothers Facebook pages. I bet you will find a lot more spares kicking around in your part of the world then you might think. (1) Dodge Brothers Motor Cars Dodge Brothers Club, Inc.

.003 & .004 are correct, but that is for engine that is hot up to temp.

While the straight windshield is correct for 1918, the mid year 1919 slant windshield (1920 models) roadster windshield was 2 inches lower than the touring. I don't know if that was the case in 1918, lower windshield. Here is a sample of 1918 touring; https://www.classicandsportscar.com/classifieds/classic-cars/dodge/other-models/a-powerful-and-very-well-built-1918-dodge-model-30/9313004

A set would be 4, 5 if you include the spare. Maybe saying how many wheels you are selling would help move them. If more than one, show a photo of the group.

I don't see a lot of oil coming out between the block and guides on my well worn 21 engine. I think the groove is there for oil control.

The Chevrolet maybe has better parts supplies or cost of replacement parts? More GM products sold, so more exposure?

Unless you are going to be driving at high speeds and long distance to and from, why not just use the bearings you have now, if you have them, for the parade at least if you can't source them right away?

For Chevrolet specific questions I would suggest VCCA. They did not use torque specifications back in those days. Spray the cap thread with something like PB Blaster. Unless it is a spelter/pot metal cap, it should be brass on brass threaded. You may have to used a strap wrench to take off. It has to come off anyway. Like most of the early cars, maybe you know this, but the water just needs to come over the top of the core. Resurrecting a '28 4 banger - Vintage Chevrolet Club - Discussion Forum

I am going to guess there was a cork for felt seal in that push in cap at one time.

If i read the Master parts list correct you need 5111 Brake band support spring, set screw, check nut, cotter pin and washer for 14" brakes used after about July 1916. I don't see any change in part number after that date. My copy of the brake pages are from the 9th edition of the Master parts list, which I think goes up to 1927. I will check but don't think I have any extras. Sorry don't have any extras. You might check with; Myers Early Dodge or ROMAR Home Page

1928 Chevrolet Specifications Vintage Chevrolet Club - Discussion Forum - Forums powered by UBB.threads https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/forums/20/1/1912-1928.html The Filling Station Chevrolet parts Unless it is leaking or your going to do a valve job, why would you pull the head? In other words, don't just start replacing things that don't need replacing just to replace them. If there is a fitting on each end, that would be the oil filter.

Go back to the post you started and ask there. Few are going to see your question here. You need to let us know what information you need. Not enough info to go on with just two words!

Besides the alternator the only other thing I see that is not stock is the breather cap on the valve cover. Unless there has been some replumbing under the rocker cover, would not be needed. Has there been and if so, how about some photos? Normally you would oil the felt pad that lays on the rockers via the holes in the top of the cover and every so often that the cover off and refill the wells around the valve stem bosses along with making sure the felt is well oiled. The springs going up and down splash the oil so it get to the valve stems. There would not be any pressure getting up there from the crankcase. The side covers and rocker arm cover are dust and splatter shields, the rocker arms are a loss oiling system. You are missing the oil filter and plumbing that would have been mounted where the coil is. Can't see what is below the carburetor to tell what is still there, which I hope it is because that is part of the system that fells the rod dipper tray. If there is a fitting coming thru the block and it is capped off, then the filter was taken out of the system and (hopefuly) the internal parts are still there. https://www.google.com/search?q=1928+Chevrolet+engine&newwindow=1&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ALeKk00DQLTG6IXNMjZhpwz7lgJYr2Sqxg:1624034392527&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=8T_KpVlkQ7UgSM%2CoaFFQwDNkkJ3bM%2C_%3B7PWdvn_aa-ZkdM%2CV0CjS2dfNS6neM%2C_%3BPbYyHaCEulIUfM%2C9NqjE0Fgd_1gVM%2C_%3BRCgISLvMz5Y5OM%2CGjzjUc0anAepcM%2C_%3BZ46bGzESw2gP7M%2CFr6EtI0bsQevFM%2C_%3B8GQpa5vult3VPM%2Cl48oPZo4fVlZ0M%2C_%3B8HOYupQTwKc9fM%2C7MRE6yns-0h7iM%2C_%3BZrVcD1GikRD7CM%2C9NqjE0Fgd_1gVM%2C_%3B0eTXRF-5ZUY9XM%2CH0d5FZDeuNRPWM%2C_%3BxPBwacMh-hGMqM%2ClUwgobmMmPWVlM%2C_%3B6S6baDdHrsnqyM%2CmW2EOn-PpprFQM%2C_%3Bk0-XbTWsFrYmOM%2COKk7qxzbzevTMM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSKN9r4HDQzgbMVRxg7OEGOG6EHWw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjAw8bIz6HxAhVF6p4KHfUcC3UQ9QF6BAgJEAE&biw=1920&bih=899#imgrc=8T_KpVlkQ7UgSM

Ok so now that you are here, what is your question? Not to direct anyone away from this site, there are also two good Facebook sites for early Dodge along with Home | Dodge Brothers Club. I think that the AACA store's the Dodge Clubs library. If you don't have a copy I recommend getting the "Mechanics' Instruction Manual" 1914-1927. Also the 14th or 15th edition, depending on your build date (you want the one that was printed just before your car was built) "Book of Information".

Great! You might want to dial back the regulator about 1LB to 1-1/2LB. Remember that the carb is gravity feed so does not need that much.

This YouTube video covers what Jay L had to to with an Owens Magnetic with same problem;

I have not used them. I got mine from; https://www.ledlight.com/6-volt-negative-ground-automotive-led-lights.aspx They are more automotive tuned, where as the company you posted, from the header when I opened the page, seem more general.

Guess after looking at the current Filling Station Catalog, in the last year they have lost a number of parts suppliers for pistons and semi finished mains. But no fear, except maybe the pocket book on the mains; Kohnke Rebabbitting Service | Facebook Is the DA6 a Dodge and didn't they have insert bearings on the mains?

Same with the Model T's re adding a filter between the tank sediment bowl and carburetor, esp with early cars and tank under the seat. Yes a clean tank is best. This is what I have on my 1920 Dodge vacuum tank, it is aftermarket era correct. In my case there really is not room under the tank for a sediment bowl/filter. The fuel tank on mine does need to be cleaned (the brown at the bottom is rust and scale). Most glass bowl types also have a screen inside so larger particles don't back flow into the pump or carburetor depending on where you mount the filter.

I have an original glass bowl fuel filter installed on my 1920 Dodge Stewart vacuum pump. It is installed on the in line with a banjo fitting to top of the tank, but the bowl does not drain out between runs. Makes sense that the filter in this case would be horizontal, between runs it could drain out installed as shown and would have to be refilled each time the pump does its thing. Putting the filter after the pump between it and carb would defeat its use, getting any crud from the tank out before it reaches the vacuum pump. There is no pushing of the gas out of the vacuum pump, it is gravity feed so there is not a lot of head pressure to force the gas thru the filter. You could also have a valve(s) that are hanging up. The rocker arms may need to have the pads reground. What I found out doing a little checking because the valves on my 28 Chevrolet head were hanging up, the pads needed to be cleaned up, made smooth again. Also, when rocker arm pads are ground, there is a small angle across their face so as the pad brushes over the valve stem it rotates the valve. We have an old Black and Decker valve grinder at the shop, it has a special attachment to do this. So it's not just a one car brand thing.