dbtravis

Power problem is resolved and it was a lot of work and chasing items that were not needed. However, I got a valve job, a new piston, and a ring job, resurfaced the head, and a carb rebuild out of the ordeal... so it's now a pretty solid running car! Embarrassed to say it, but sometimes the simple things shouldn't be overlooked. I had watched the spark jump from each wire to each plug - no issues. Assumed it meant all was well and good. I reset the points, replaced the coil, replaced the condenser, etc. I was certain the distributor was solid... it was idling great and I could clearly see spark at the correct times on each cylinder, when I tested them ONE AT A TIME. After I had the engine back together after my piston ordeal, and it still didn't have power, I thought what the heck - I may as well check the points one more time. It wasn't until I had the distributor cap in hand and was going to put it back on that I held it in just the correct angle such that the light hit it properly to expose a crack that ran between THREE of the terminals on the underside of the cap... the thing was basically triple firing on three of the cylinders. It's surprising it would go down the street under it's own power at all! I checked with my meter for continuity from the lower and upper side of each of those terminals when I was doing my original tests, and they all checked fine - but I didn't even think to put my meter BETWEEN two terminals. After seeing the hairline crack in the cap... yep... the meter showed a path of no resistance between 3 of the 4 terminals in the cap! Problem solved! Lesson learned! And now I can at least pass this along to others so I can save all of you the better part of a year off the road, when 10 minutes changing out a cap was all that was needed!! The old cap now sits on my shelf as a reminder to check and double-check for all possibilities on the small stuff BEFORE tearing into an engine assuming the problem must be inside because you feel you've eliminated everything... check again! Process of elimination only works if you eliminate/test all possibilities, and clearly this was one I overlooked when I only tested the spark one-by-one. At the end of the day, I did discover that the internals had a few issues that are now resolved, so eventually tearing into it would have been needed... but I probably could have been fine postponing that for the next 10-15 years based on the kind of mileage the car gets! Oh well... live and learn. It's a fun solid-driving car now, and the additional stuff I did in the engine just makes it better! Thanks for checking. I know I've commented on this in other posts previously, but should have returned back here to conclude the story for those that come in and read it later. Now you know! 🙂 Thanks again to everyone who helped with this!

I’m working on a 1917 with 25” wire wheels. I believe they are Hayes, but unsure about that or the size model number (any identifying info would be appreciated). I’d like to pack the wheel bearings but I can’t seem to get the center caps that hold the wheel to unscrew. They seem stuck. I’ve pressed down the locking tab with a screwdriver. I’ve even purchased a socket so I can use a breaker bar. I believe one side has reverse threads but I’m second guessing myself on which side that is. However, they don’t budge regardless of which way I try to turn them. I’ve tried with the car on jacks and on the ground. They seem stuck, but I’m wondering if there’s a trick I’m overlooking or any tips? I don’t even know where I’d start spraying penetrating fluid. Any ideas/help or info on these is appreciated! - Travis photo of left front wheel. I put electrical tape around the center hub cap to try to cushion it from the wrench.

Hello, I’m not sure if this is the wrong vintage for the topics of this forum, but I’m at a loss so looking for any direction! I have a 1969 c20 pickup. Stock 350 V8, all original truck with factory AC. It has the A.I.R. system (smog pump). I intend to keep the truck in original condition so I’m not looking to delete it, even though I understand the reasons for doing so. My smog pump is rattling like crazy and needs to be replaced… only thing is it seems they’ve stopped making the part?? Everyone is sold out, even the manufacturer lists “out of stock” so it’s not possible for the local parts places to order it. This is a pretty common truck and the 350 is a pretty common engine. I know this was more of a “California thing” so not many trucks had it… but still…. I’d think enough are out there that it would be available somewhere? ANY ideas, short of removing it? Anyone replaced one lately with a part number and brand I can search for that would work? The one that’s in there and the parts houses say is correct is a Cardone 32-105. But it doesn’t appear to be available anywhere… even at Cardone! Thanks in advance for any info!

Missed this when you posted it. What size are your wheels? I’ll send you a private message to see if you might still have the center dish part! Thanks!

Thanks Al, I'll look up Rick Britten and inquire. I actually have three on the car (including the red one)... I am only missing one. I like the idea about nickle plating them, that would look fantastic! Any idea if these have a name? I just call them "center dish thing"! If I knew what their technical term was, it may make searching for them easier... if having a set spun doesn't come together. Thanks!! - Travis

Hi All, No responses on this one after over two years - so I thought I'd comment here to let you know I'm still looking for this piece, or any information on the wheel, or what this part is called so it may help in my search! Thanks - Travis

I am looking for the center metal dished piece that goes between the wheel and hubcap on a 1925 Flint H-40 The wheel is a 4 lug, 20in disc wheel. I believe might be made by Hayes, possible a Hayes 300, but I’m not totally positive on that. The current place where the car is parked made it a bit challenging to take an exact measurement of this piece; but as best as I could, the hole where the hubcap meets it is roughly 3.5 inches and the wide flange against the wheel looks to be around 7.5 inches, in case that helps. If a more exact measurement is needed let me know and I’ll get one. The piece that I’m searching for is what’s painted red in the photos. What is this piece called?

Hi, We just purchased a 1929 Studebaker Commander rumble seat coupe with the straight 8 engine. We are missing the chrome headlight bar (tie rod) that goes between the headlights and has the "8" in the center. Does anyone have one they'd be willing to sell, or a source where I might look for one? I'm willing to take anything, of course the nicer the better, but I'm even more than willing to take a very rough one if someone has one! Thanks!

Is this still for sale? Thanks!

Thanks! This is a great explanation as to why the flat face goes towards direction of travel, not the angled (chamfered) face. Makes perfect sense! I appreciate it. I always feel more confident that I’m doing something correctly when I can understand the logic/engineering/physics behind it! - Travis

On my 1917 roadster, before I button up the engine, I figured I’d take the distributor housing off to check the advance weights. I found them caked with sticky and somewhat hard grease (see photo) so I’m soaking it overnight in some cleaner solution. I haven’t found anything in the book on proper lubrication for these. It seems that eventually some grease from the distributor drive gear will migrate over, but should I put it back together with any grease on them? Just a light oil? Dry? I’m unsure what’s recommended. Thanks in advance, I appreciate everyone’s help on here!

What’s the proper orientation of the two vanes on a 1917 oil pump? I see in the manual that it spins counter clockwise looking up from under the car. The sketch in the book looks like the curved/angled side goes towards the direction of travel, but the book seems to mention the “flat side” goes toward the direction of travel, when only one side is angled; which seems opposite of what I’d expect. Of course I wasn’t paying attention to that when I took them out! Photos for reference. Angled side towards direction of travel or away? Thanks in advance!

Thanks Rusty! If you run across one for a special, let me know! - Travis

Hello! On my 1953 Buick Special, the passenger side hood hinge failed on me! The shoulder bolt that attaches the movable arm that holds the firewall side of the hood spring to the rest of the hood hinge apparatus completely snapped in half, so this arm and the spring fell to the ground. Luckily I found them, but upon examination it appears that what I’m looking for is a shoulder bolt that holds this arm onto the hinge assembly. After several hours of internet searching, I can’t seem to find a replacement. I do see several for the early 1950s chevrolets… any idea if these would be the same? Anyone have a source for these or know the size/specifications of the bolt, on the chance I actually have to have one made? Unfortunately, as the hood was falling, instinct to grab something caused me to grab the center “torpedo spear” that sits in the middle of the hood ornament, so although I kept the hood from doing any damage, I broke the torpedo spear. It’s a clean break that I may be able to j-b weld a dowel of the correct size inside it and re-fasten it without too much visible damage, but if anyone has one of those I’m also looking! This is for a 53 Special straight 8, so it’s not the more common one with the “v” in the middle of the circle. What a disaster! Thanks in advance! - Travis. Manteca, CA

Hi, I've finally sorted out a piston issue I've been having on my 1917 roadster. Long story short, the solution has yielded a nicely honed, ready to go, true cylinder that measures that it should take a 030 over. That's a standard oversize, but most places want to sell new pistons in sets, whereas I only need one. Does anyone out there have a +030 piston with a good/new set of rings that they'd consider selling? Original style aluminum composition would be nice, but I'll take anything I can find and have it balanced against the others. Never hurts to ask, so thanks in advance - Travis