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About dbtravis

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  1. Thanks, I'll send Tom a note to inquire. And yes, the engine pump is still there!
  2. Happy New Year! My dad and I have just brought home an original 1915 DB Touring. Seems to be complete and ready to try starting, with one exception - it's missing the hand-operated air pump that goes in the dashboard. I'm sure these aren't the easiest things to find, but we would love to try and keep it original as opposed to installing an electric fuel pump or converting to the vacuum system. If anyone on here has a dash air pump that they'd consider selling please let us know! Thanks - Travis 925.899.4478 or TR256@aol.com
  3. Great to hear you found and eliminated the knock!! What an ordeal, but I'm sure your experience will help several others down the road if they encounter the same issue! If by chance you happen to have a part number for the motorcycle gasket you used in place of the copper compression seal I'd be interested to have that data available for future reference incase I ever need to go that route. Thanks for sharing about your experience online as it's always wonderful to read and learn from others - we're all better DB mechanics because of it! - Travis
  4. After reading through these posts, it seems like you've had quite a bit of machine work and testing done to ensure the work was correct. At the risk of being laughed at, I'll offer you a completely different item to troubleshoot with a very easy solution... Based on your description I experienced the EXACT same thing on my 1926 DB Coupe a few years back. It ran fine, but I kept hearing an unsettling knock/tap that would disappear whenever I unhooked the sparkplug wire from the offending cylinder. I replaced the wrist pin, tightened the rod bearing, etc, all to no avail. I had all but resigned myself to simply drive it with the knock until something broke and then I would finally know what it was, I didn't experience any loss of power or overheating or anything that really impacted performance - it just sounded like it was beating itself to death. Finally it was suggested to me that I start it up from cold and take some WD-40 and as the motor was running, spray a liberal amount around the exhaust manifold gasket on the offending cylinder as soon as it started up (to avoid excessive heat and potential for it to flare up). As soon as I did this, there was a small point where the WD-40 just blew back like crazy... indicating a small leak in the exhaust manifold ring gasket on this cylinder. It turns out that what my ears (and others) had heard as a tap or knock was simply a really strange case of exhaust blow-by through a bad gasket. It really sounded like a tap or knock I guess because the leaking section was so small that when the pressure built as that cylinder fired it would really shoot it out of the small breach with some force and really make quite a tapping sound. I know we don't usually get this lucky, and after all you've been through even on the chance that this is your issue it would be a stretch to call it luck, but after everything you've been through it's definitely worth a try. My engine was apart for the better part of 6 months trying to figured out what was loose or bent, only to realize it was something as easy as a leaking exhaust manifold ring! I felt embarrassed, but hey - if my experience can help you or someone else it will help me feel like maybe my ordeal was worth it... maybe!
  5. Thanks everyone for the nice comments and advice/help! Much appreciated as this one is a new learning experience for me! I discovered that the engine will turn over, so that is a huge motivation! Still have to free up the stuck rear wheels. I now have a puller capable of getting the drums off! After that I'll clean up the electrical and fuel systems and we'll see if it will fire off! May be awhile, as I don't have time every day to work on it, but I'll keep you all posted of my progress or any questions I may have along the way! Thanks again! - Travis
  6. Forgot to mention, I've found the following: Serial Number: 7500745 Body Number: 945 (might be 946 now that I look at it closer - someone painted over the tag at one point). Engine Head is stamped "CD" and "Silver Dome" I have the two wheels for the side mounts. I've freed up the two front wheels (stuck brakes) and now will work on the back. After it rolls free I'll see if I can get it to turn over. Engine looks good on the outside, but since it's been sitting for so many years I've been putting some Kroil down the cylinders "just incase". I've only worked with 4cyl dodge brothers cars in the past - so this is twice the engine that I'm used to!
  7. Thanks everyone for the information. Let's see if I can successfully upload a couple photos! This was the day we brought it home - look at all the dust!!! Underneath is decent dark maroon paint.
  8. I'm the new owner of a 1930 Chrysler CD, 8 cylinder sedan. I can find very little information or photos of the car (at least the sedan body style) online. My limited research makes it seem like this was a car built and sold in 1930 that was effectively a 1931 model year? The body number is 945. Anyone have any information on this? In particular, if I'm looking for any parts, should I look for 1931 Chrysler CD stuff, or is 1930 materially different? The car was restored in 1963 and put into storage in 1969, so it is very dirty but looks to be complete. I'm working to free up the locked wheels and then I'll see if it will turn over! So far the only things I know I'm missing are the robe rail that attaches to the back of the front seat, and 4 hubcaps. The car has wires with dual side mounts and I only have 2 hubcaps. It should be fun to see if I can get it going! Any information would be appreciated!
  9. Thanks! I saw your post that started this thread and appreciate the advice! Quick question... I know nothing about metal types. In your first post you mention .004 beryllium copper, and in the second one you mention .005 phosphor bronze. Any difference or preference between the two? Thanks!
  10. Older post, but lets see... I have the three horn bugle-chime. My motor works, but no sound from trumpets besides a scraping/grinding type of sound. I've tried turning the adjustment knobs in and out to no avail. Any advice?
  11. Hi! I'm adjusting valves on a 1924 DB and they've been replaced with Stainless Steel Valves. Does anyone know the correct hot or cold gap for the intake and exhaust with the stainless valves? I assume it might be different that the standard steel valves, but just thought I would double check first! Thanks! - Travis
  12. I doubt I'll take it that far, but the thought has crossed my mind. I've heard that there is a similar, easier to find, bearing out there (not sure if it's babbit or shell insert)that will fit right in, but you have to cut your own groove(s) for the oil. Obviously I don't know much about this, but thought I'd see if anyone out there has any good ideas or has had experience replacing/repairing their bearings and what all they decided to do.
  13. Does anybody know of a source for 4-cyl engine bearings? I haven't heard of any sources of reproduction, but was curious if any other applications (modern or tractor)will do the trick. Thanks! - Travis
  14. Does anybody have a set of "bullet shaped" cowl lights that were used sometime in the 1924 - 1927 vintage, in good or restorable condition? If you're interested in selling them, let me know! Also, I am curious if anyone knows the exact year(s) or option selection that got a car to come with these. I have the longer "bullet" shaped headlights on my coupe, (found at a swap meet and added on by the previous owner) and I'd love to get the cowl lights to match. I've seen these in ADs, but never actually on a car. Any photos out there? Thanks! - Travis TR256@aol.com
  15. Well, One thing gets fixed and then another problem arises... Isn't that how it usually goes?! :-) Actually, I think I have come to finding the problem for my overheating issue... I found that I have three cracks in my block. One from the number 2 exhaust valve over to the cylinder, one from the number 3 exhaust valve out to the outside edge of the block and one from the number 3 exhaust valve over to the cylinder... sigh... The good news is that I had the honeycomb radiator boiled out. It can now go about 12 miles from cold until it overheats. Before it was about 3 miles, so that is a big improvement with the increased cooling capability. So... any advice on the best way to fix this? The engine runs GREAT, so it will be a shame if I need to junk the block and start all over - but maybe that is the only way. If possible, I would REALLY like to take care of this WITHOUT removing the engine from the car, for obvious reasons. Do any of those "head and block sealer" products work at all on non-pressurized systems? And keep in mind that this is in the combustion chamber area, not on the outside of the block. The strange thing is that I get NO steam out the back and NO water in the oil. But I know it is leaking a little bit. It must just collect on top of the piston or find its way down the exhaust or something?? Who knows. Either way - the cracks are very small, but nonethless they are still there. I am fairly mechanical but welding or other "machine work" types of things are definitely beyond my capabilities. If it is even possible for a shop to weld or fix this, can I just remove the hood, radiator, and head and trailer the car down, or are they going to need the entire block completely stripped of all engine parts and out of the car? I fear this will be the case, but I eagerly await your opinions. Thank you to EVERYONE who has been so kind to help me through the past 5 months and the adventures I have had with this car! Hopefully I will be able to work through this and have some more fun to tell you all about down the road! - Travis TR256@aol.com