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dbtravis

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  1. Thanks Tony. A valve sticking in the guide had crossed my mind, but I kind of pushed it aside when I found I had good compression when it's hot and it will rev just fine in neutral - this issue is only when under load (upshift from 2nd to 3rd, power to climb even the smallest incline in 2nd, etc) But... since it only occurs when it's hot, I wonder if you could be on to something and maybe the extra pressure in the motor when its under load makes it more apparent and not something that I'd notice if it's just in neutral. Since the previous owner used it just in parades at low speeds, there could be quite a bit of carbon in there that never had much chance to burn off. Looks like a valve job is in my near future. It may be a few days, but I'll post back on my findings and possibly even a few photos, if I can figure out how to upload them! Minibago - Thanks for your input as well, you Australia DB'ers are on it! I stand corrected on the new spark plug I'm using, the "C" in my mind was because it's a Champion Plug; the correct model is a W18. Sorry for any confusion. I have a distributor. Your idea about checking the electrical firing of each cylinder when hot is a good one. I have an in-line spark tester that I can connect and drive it with the hood off to see quite well what cylinder is firing at what time. That would at least give me some idea of which one is firing as the "popping" starts and would be some good knowledge to have prior to taking off the head. I appreciate the idea! Thanks everyone and I'll keep you posted! - Travis
  2. Hi All, I've appreciated the help and ideas I've received her before, so I'm back to get your thoughts on a mystery I'm having. My newly acquired 1917 Roadster has no power. This might get long, but I'll strive to give you every detail I can think of. I have a few other 4cyl Dodges and am accustomed to their power output as a point of reference. This car will start and idle just fine, and even sounds good at sustained high rpm in neutral, however when I make the upshift from 2nd to 3rd, it just falls flat. There is absolutely no power for acceleration in 3rd. It starts popping/backfiring through the carb when it's under any kind of load. The problem seems to get worse when it's hot. I have a very very slight incline to my driveway and when I first back it out of the garage, it will pull back up the driveway on the poor side of decent in second, but after I'm out test driving for 10 min or so, it lacks power to pull even this slight incline in second when I return home without racing the engine and slipping the clutch way more than appropriate and it will even start popping through the carb, so it definitely seems like it's an "under load" power issue. I've noticed that my first upshift from 2nd to 3rd when I start out with a cold engine doesn't have near the power I'd expect, but it doesn't pop through the carb and I'm slowly able limp it up to about 20-25 which seems to be all she's got, and it takes about 3 blocks to baby it to get there. It's not until I drive a couple more blocks to the next stop sign (when it's warmed up a bit more perhaps?) and that's when the popping accompanies the lack of power. The car will pop through the carb so much that half the time it stalls out, but always restarts fairly easily. It's like it really doesn't do well when you ask the engine to do anything that even minimally puts it under load. I've read through the book. I set the timing. I thought perhaps I messed up and it was too advanced, but experimentation while driving only leads to less power when i retard it on the lever, as you'd expect. I've replaced the coil and condenser with modern ones, and have a brand new set of C18 spark plugs. The points look beautiful and are right at .020. On to the gas side... I initially figured it may be too lean, and no adjustment of the choke stop screw would make a difference, so I removed the carb that came with the car and replaced it with one I took completely apart, cleaned, installed new gaskets, set the metering pin 1/16 off of lifting the air valve. The swapped-out carb made no difference in performance, so doesn't seem to be a carb issue. As I am experiencing the lack of power and carb popping, I've even tried pulling the choke out different levels to see if richer would help, with no improvement. I've put new gaskets in the vacuum tank and cleaned the inside of the inner and outer tanks and all appears to be fine, including the flapper on the bottom of the inner tank. I've checked the valve clearances when hot and all are well over the .003/.004 listed in the book. While I'd like to tighten these up a bit, it seems that popping through the carb would be related to an intake valve clearance being too tight, which these don't appear to be, so I'm leaving valve adjustment as a matter of "performance tuning" until after I have this issue figured out. It seems that I'm on the safe side with them too wide as far as the issues I'm experiencing. I've tested compression both hot and cold, throttle wide open, all plugs removed and hitting the starter for 5 seconds or so. Compression on 1-3 is 60psi and on 4 is maybe 61-62, which is basically equal across all but I'm including that detail as I'm reaching the end of my ideas here!! I'm not claiming to be any expert here, so if you think I've done something wrong or should go back and take a second look at something I've already done, I'm open to any help/ideas. The one thing I have yet to do is take the head off, but I'm not sure what I might find wrong in there when the compression checks out good, maybe even on the high side, as I think the book mentions closer to 50? The car had been restored previously, but had sat for at least 5-8 years prior to my purchasing it. The previous owner used it almost exclusively as a parade car once per year. He would use the electric winch in his trailer, load the car, trailer to the parade, unload it, and drive the parade route and then winch/load the car back in the trailer and drive home. As such, I'm guessing he wouldn't have much reason to be in a situation out of first or second where he was asking the engine to put out power, so he likely wouldn't have realized these issues even if they had been going on for quite some time. I'm eagerly awaiting any discussion, or ideas you might have as I'd love to get this car to a point where I can use it and I've grown quite frustrated as nothing I've seemed to do has made one bit of difference. It's so lacking in power that it's completely unusable in it's current condition and I hope to change that! Thanks in advance! - Travis
  3. Hi, I am looking for the center metal dished piece that goes between the wheel and hubcap on a 1925 Flint H-40 The wheel is a 4 lug, 20in wheel that I believe might be made by Hayes, possible a Hayes 300, but I’m not totally positive on that. The current place where the car is parked made it a bit challenging to take an exact measurement of this piece; but as best as I could, the hole where the hubcap meets it is roughly 3.5 inches and the wide flange against the wheel looks to be around 7.5 inches, in case that helps. If a more exact measurement is needed let me know and I’ll get one. The piece that I’m searching for is what’s painted red in the photos. What is this piece called? Thanks! Travis
  4. Thanks, I'll send Tom a note to inquire. And yes, the engine pump is still there!
  5. Happy New Year! My dad and I have just brought home an original 1915 DB Touring. Seems to be complete and ready to try starting, with one exception - it's missing the hand-operated air pump that goes in the dashboard. I'm sure these aren't the easiest things to find, but we would love to try and keep it original as opposed to installing an electric fuel pump or converting to the vacuum system. If anyone on here has a dash air pump that they'd consider selling please let us know! Thanks - Travis 925.899.4478 or TR256@aol.com
  6. Great to hear you found and eliminated the knock!! What an ordeal, but I'm sure your experience will help several others down the road if they encounter the same issue! If by chance you happen to have a part number for the motorcycle gasket you used in place of the copper compression seal I'd be interested to have that data available for future reference incase I ever need to go that route. Thanks for sharing about your experience online as it's always wonderful to read and learn from others - we're all better DB mechanics because of it! - Travis
  7. After reading through these posts, it seems like you've had quite a bit of machine work and testing done to ensure the work was correct. At the risk of being laughed at, I'll offer you a completely different item to troubleshoot with a very easy solution... Based on your description I experienced the EXACT same thing on my 1926 DB Coupe a few years back. It ran fine, but I kept hearing an unsettling knock/tap that would disappear whenever I unhooked the sparkplug wire from the offending cylinder. I replaced the wrist pin, tightened the rod bearing, etc, all to no avail. I had all but resigned myself to simply drive it with the knock until something broke and then I would finally know what it was, I didn't experience any loss of power or overheating or anything that really impacted performance - it just sounded like it was beating itself to death. Finally it was suggested to me that I start it up from cold and take some WD-40 and as the motor was running, spray a liberal amount around the exhaust manifold gasket on the offending cylinder as soon as it started up (to avoid excessive heat and potential for it to flare up). As soon as I did this, there was a small point where the WD-40 just blew back like crazy... indicating a small leak in the exhaust manifold ring gasket on this cylinder. It turns out that what my ears (and others) had heard as a tap or knock was simply a really strange case of exhaust blow-by through a bad gasket. It really sounded like a tap or knock I guess because the leaking section was so small that when the pressure built as that cylinder fired it would really shoot it out of the small breach with some force and really make quite a tapping sound. I know we don't usually get this lucky, and after all you've been through even on the chance that this is your issue it would be a stretch to call it luck, but after everything you've been through it's definitely worth a try. My engine was apart for the better part of 6 months trying to figured out what was loose or bent, only to realize it was something as easy as a leaking exhaust manifold ring! I felt embarrassed, but hey - if my experience can help you or someone else it will help me feel like maybe my ordeal was worth it... maybe!
  8. Thanks everyone for the nice comments and advice/help! Much appreciated as this one is a new learning experience for me! I discovered that the engine will turn over, so that is a huge motivation! Still have to free up the stuck rear wheels. I now have a puller capable of getting the drums off! After that I'll clean up the electrical and fuel systems and we'll see if it will fire off! May be awhile, as I don't have time every day to work on it, but I'll keep you all posted of my progress or any questions I may have along the way! Thanks again! - Travis
  9. Forgot to mention, I've found the following: Serial Number: 7500745 Body Number: 945 (might be 946 now that I look at it closer - someone painted over the tag at one point). Engine Head is stamped "CD" and "Silver Dome" I have the two wheels for the side mounts. I've freed up the two front wheels (stuck brakes) and now will work on the back. After it rolls free I'll see if I can get it to turn over. Engine looks good on the outside, but since it's been sitting for so many years I've been putting some Kroil down the cylinders "just incase". I've only worked with 4cyl dodge brothers cars in the past - so this is twice the engine that I'm used to!
  10. Thanks everyone for the information. Let's see if I can successfully upload a couple photos! This was the day we brought it home - look at all the dust!!! Underneath is decent dark maroon paint.
  11. I'm the new owner of a 1930 Chrysler CD, 8 cylinder sedan. I can find very little information or photos of the car (at least the sedan body style) online. My limited research makes it seem like this was a car built and sold in 1930 that was effectively a 1931 model year? The body number is 945. Anyone have any information on this? In particular, if I'm looking for any parts, should I look for 1931 Chrysler CD stuff, or is 1930 materially different? The car was restored in 1963 and put into storage in 1969, so it is very dirty but looks to be complete. I'm working to free up the locked wheels and then I'll see if it will turn over! So far the only things I know I'm missing are the robe rail that attaches to the back of the front seat, and 4 hubcaps. The car has wires with dual side mounts and I only have 2 hubcaps. It should be fun to see if I can get it going! Any information would be appreciated!
  12. Thanks! I saw your post that started this thread and appreciate the advice! Quick question... I know nothing about metal types. In your first post you mention .004 beryllium copper, and in the second one you mention .005 phosphor bronze. Any difference or preference between the two? Thanks!
  13. Older post, but lets see... I have the three horn bugle-chime. My motor works, but no sound from trumpets besides a scraping/grinding type of sound. I've tried turning the adjustment knobs in and out to no avail. Any advice?
  14. Hi! I'm adjusting valves on a 1924 DB and they've been replaced with Stainless Steel Valves. Does anyone know the correct hot or cold gap for the intake and exhaust with the stainless valves? I assume it might be different that the standard steel valves, but just thought I would double check first! Thanks! - Travis
  15. I doubt I'll take it that far, but the thought has crossed my mind. I've heard that there is a similar, easier to find, bearing out there (not sure if it's babbit or shell insert)that will fit right in, but you have to cut your own groove(s) for the oil. Obviously I don't know much about this, but thought I'd see if anyone out there has any good ideas or has had experience replacing/repairing their bearings and what all they decided to do.
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