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About dbtravis

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  1. Hi, I am looking for the center metal dished piece that goes between the wheel and hubcap on a 1925 Flint H-40 The wheel is a 4 lug, 20in wheel that I believe might be made by Hayes, possible a Hayes 300, but I’m not totally positive on that. The current place where the car is parked made it a bit challenging to take an exact measurement of this piece; but as best as I could, the hole where the hubcap meets it is roughly 3.5 inches and the wide flange against the wheel looks to be around 7.5 inches, in case that helps. If a more exact measurement is needed let me know and I’ll ge
  2. Looking for transport from NJ to CA for a vehicle that does not run, but is together with working brakes. Prefer enclosed, or if open, ability to “wrap” the car, especially the top (sedan from 1920s). Thanks! - Travis.
  3. Thanks, I'll send Tom a note to inquire. And yes, the engine pump is still there!
  4. Happy New Year! My dad and I have just brought home an original 1915 DB Touring. Seems to be complete and ready to try starting, with one exception - it's missing the hand-operated air pump that goes in the dashboard. I'm sure these aren't the easiest things to find, but we would love to try and keep it original as opposed to installing an electric fuel pump or converting to the vacuum system. If anyone on here has a dash air pump that they'd consider selling please let us know! Thanks - Travis 925.899.4478 or TR256@aol.com
  5. Great to hear you found and eliminated the knock!! What an ordeal, but I'm sure your experience will help several others down the road if they encounter the same issue! If by chance you happen to have a part number for the motorcycle gasket you used in place of the copper compression seal I'd be interested to have that data available for future reference incase I ever need to go that route. Thanks for sharing about your experience online as it's always wonderful to read and learn from others - we're all better DB mechanics because of it! - Travis
  6. After reading through these posts, it seems like you've had quite a bit of machine work and testing done to ensure the work was correct. At the risk of being laughed at, I'll offer you a completely different item to troubleshoot with a very easy solution... Based on your description I experienced the EXACT same thing on my 1926 DB Coupe a few years back. It ran fine, but I kept hearing an unsettling knock/tap that would disappear whenever I unhooked the sparkplug wire from the offending cylinder. I replaced the wrist pin, tightened the rod bearing, etc, all to no avail. I had all but resi
  7. Thanks everyone for the nice comments and advice/help! Much appreciated as this one is a new learning experience for me! I discovered that the engine will turn over, so that is a huge motivation! Still have to free up the stuck rear wheels. I now have a puller capable of getting the drums off! After that I'll clean up the electrical and fuel systems and we'll see if it will fire off! May be awhile, as I don't have time every day to work on it, but I'll keep you all posted of my progress or any questions I may have along the way! Thanks again! - Travis
  8. Forgot to mention, I've found the following: Serial Number: 7500745 Body Number: 945 (might be 946 now that I look at it closer - someone painted over the tag at one point). Engine Head is stamped "CD" and "Silver Dome" I have the two wheels for the side mounts. I've freed up the two front wheels (stuck brakes) and now will work on the back. After it rolls free I'll see if I can get it to turn over. Engine looks good on the outside, but since it's been sitting for so many years I've been putting some Kroil down the cylinders "just incase". I've only worked with
  9. Thanks everyone for the information. Let's see if I can successfully upload a couple photos! This was the day we brought it home - look at all the dust!!! Underneath is decent dark maroon paint.
  10. I'm the new owner of a 1930 Chrysler CD, 8 cylinder sedan. I can find very little information or photos of the car (at least the sedan body style) online. My limited research makes it seem like this was a car built and sold in 1930 that was effectively a 1931 model year? The body number is 945. Anyone have any information on this? In particular, if I'm looking for any parts, should I look for 1931 Chrysler CD stuff, or is 1930 materially different? The car was restored in 1963 and put into storage in 1969, so it is very dirty but looks to be complete. I'm working to free up the locked w
  11. Thanks! I saw your post that started this thread and appreciate the advice! Quick question... I know nothing about metal types. In your first post you mention .004 beryllium copper, and in the second one you mention .005 phosphor bronze. Any difference or preference between the two? Thanks!
  12. Older post, but lets see... I have the three horn bugle-chime. My motor works, but no sound from trumpets besides a scraping/grinding type of sound. I've tried turning the adjustment knobs in and out to no avail. Any advice?
  13. Hi! I'm adjusting valves on a 1924 DB and they've been replaced with Stainless Steel Valves. Does anyone know the correct hot or cold gap for the intake and exhaust with the stainless valves? I assume it might be different that the standard steel valves, but just thought I would double check first! Thanks! - Travis
  14. I doubt I'll take it that far, but the thought has crossed my mind. I've heard that there is a similar, easier to find, bearing out there (not sure if it's babbit or shell insert)that will fit right in, but you have to cut your own groove(s) for the oil. Obviously I don't know much about this, but thought I'd see if anyone out there has any good ideas or has had experience replacing/repairing their bearings and what all they decided to do.
  15. Does anybody know of a source for 4-cyl engine bearings? I haven't heard of any sources of reproduction, but was curious if any other applications (modern or tractor)will do the trick. Thanks! - Travis
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