Mark Gregush

On my 1920, they ran an extra ground to the ground terminal on the starter switch. If yours is a 21, are you running positive or negative ground? The cut of the 22-26 is for the positive ground cars that started around 1922 when the horn button was moved from the door to steering column. Which ever way it is hooked up, if the gauge is showing on the plus side when running and discharge with motor not running and lights on, I would leave it. When you take the grounded side terminal off the battery do you see any sparking that would indicate there is a draw or short in the system? There should not be with everything shut off. If there is, time to get the meter out and do a little searching. Or your new battery is bad, not unheard of. Another thing to check(maybe), the cutout could be sticking closed and is feeding power to the generator with the key off. If after the car has been sitting does the generator/starter feel warm to the touch? You could also disconnect the line to it and see what the battery does, if it does not discharge then the starter switch/cutout could be the issue. Myers sells a rebuilt unit with a diode installed.

If you use a toggle for the lights you might want to maybe add the drop resister for low beam somehow.

It is grounded to the case thru that stud. The bent piece is the ground. Would not need another ground as the ground strap at the battery might be attached (on mine) to the transmission case. If the meter is showing on the plus side (what does it do with the engine off and turning the Lights on) then it should be charging and there is a larger drain on the battery some place.

The switch back is ether tabs bent over or the 3 pin type. Gently bend the tabs up to remove the back or push down and twist the other. When you put it back together make sure everything is clocked correctly inside esp the tab type.

It is hard enough to find a set of plans for a Model T open car, I would think near impossible for a Dodge closed car. Your only option might be to take lots of photos and deconstruct the body, then depending of your skill set, make a copy of each piece. I would only replace what really needs to be replaced. As far as how to on replacing wood, look for You-tube videos; for example look for videos dealing with Ford Model A 4 doors, maybe Chevrolet sedans. There should be a number of them out there. While not the same, pretty much the same process.

Take to a tire shop that does truck wheels and tires, they would have a cage to do it in.

Before jumping to the steering box you need to go over the other parts of the steering system. Kingpins, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, drag link, worn balls, loose steering pitman arm, toein etc. In other words, what is the condition of the rest of the steering related parts? If the the parts are good or replaced I would suggest checking the toein first.

Are the plugs wet after cranking? You don't need to spray gas into the intake (would be hard as the air is pulled thru exhaust manifold preheater down through the valve chamber into the carb with a fresh air intake for warm weather down between the cylinders), unless they have been removed, 21 would have priming cups. If it runs for 10 min. my vote would be to check the condenser or maybe the coil. I think 2.5 on the fuel pressure might be too high. It would only be gravity feed from the vacuum tank which would hold less then a qt with the bottom only a few inches above the bowl on the carb., so not much head pressure.

Thanks I will have to look closer.

Great!

I just went out and looked at some that I have. I did find one 140R, but don't see makers mark on it. The above list shows that number for 15-19 touring, but looks too short.

I was sorta thinking that was the case, but posted the info anyway. I too am needing a gas cap for my 20. I called Myers about one, they have one but I am not ready to shell out $45 plus shipping right now.

I think part of the problem is you are missing the inner splash guard. I would clean the cap really well and solder one in. It will need a vent hole in it, but offset from the center. If that is the cap you are using, looks like a lot of rust flakes that can drop into the tank on it now.

Swapped the leads on the coil, early results show it's cooler then before.

I have an extra original coil that looks almost new, as soon as I can get the high tension lead plug out I will try installing it for the dead coil. I will try swapping the leads on the modern coil and see where that get me. Re driving; while I might take it around the block, till I get the paperwork sorted out and and insurance (and a couple of brake lights! ), not much more. Wish I could drive it. In the mean time I can drive the T to get my "OLD" car fix.

Yes

Did a compression check on the 1920. 1, 2 and 4 are about 58-61. No 3 between 45 and 48. Valves maybe on No 3? With Model T's I can kinda know that between X and X the condition of the motor, but with this one I don't have a base line to work from. What would the Dodge compression range be if in good shape, same with ok but tired? The original coil gave out so am using a MOPAR coil and resistor. The coil is getting hotter then I would like, so thinking the condenser is bad. I need to do a voltage check after I clean the plugs to see what the cold and running voltage is. I hooked the hot wire to the plus side and the spark jumps from the wire to ground so that should be right.

Edit your title and put what you are looking for in it and "wanted". This forum covers a lot of years. Under the title box there is a drop down, you can add tages, "For Sale" or "Wanted" that will stand out better.

Watch eBay. Look for Clum keys. You can try both Dodge Brothers in the title and just a search for Clum DB41 or just Clum 41 key. When searching eBay, might work best if you leave the Dodge out as many sellers might not know what the key fits that they are selling. I did not see that number when I just looked. Aftermarket replacement keys may not say Clum on them so you may have to broaden your search parameters.

The Dykes 1925 manual has a pretty good section on the NE units. I got lucky on this one, just dirty fuse holder. The other one on a 1919 roadster that was at the same place, the guy working on it has not been so lucky. Oh I got the low beam working. The buss bar between the two contacts had a crack in it, soldered a bridge across.

The band is put back on. It was off while I turned the unit back the correct direction so I could check the brushes etc. The fuse holder was rotated so it was between the stater/gen and block and the screw to take the band off was on the bottom. It may have migrated there because the locking tab washer is missing or was just installed wrong. The float is working great. I may have snapped the photo before I put oil back in or it is just hidden behind the support screw. I have also got the head lights working and power to the tail light wire on bright, but nothing when the switch is turned to dim. I will have to take the switch apart and make sure the contacts are clocked correct and clean. I would suspect the resister but there is no power to the tail light wire so not making contact in the switch.

Is there anyone in the greater Portland Oregon or Vancouver Washington area on this board that has early Dodge parts? I need to get the correct 1920 front springs to install the correct axle back under the car. The ones under it now are 2 inches wide I need the 1-3/4" ones ( I think the axle under it now is about 1924 to 1926ish). Also would like to find correct shackle parts. If I read things correct it now has the long side bars, need the short ones. Yes I see that the suppliers have the parts but they are way outside the budget. How common are the rear disk wheel hubs with 14" drums, straight axles or were such things made?

Thank you.

Quick update; The float is holding. Replaced the upper hose. Turned the self commencer/generator the correct direction. No output because the fuse holder was badly corroded and dirty. Cleaned it and put in 10 amp fuse. The armature looks good and is undercut. Put the water back in and started it. I've got generator output. 🥳Need to get rings for the exhaust manifold and put the exhaust pipe nut on. Enough for today, I've got some other things to work on.

We got the 20 home yesterday. Drove it on and off the trailer, which was the only way I could, winch not working. Had to take out the float and fill the carb bowl from the V tank, run till died then repeated. There was flooding when I opened the valve on the V tank because the float sunk. The float has some major cracking that will not be fixable, would add too much weight. When we got it home, I had a spare float that seems to be working. Ok so on the plus side I drained the oil today. Very black but the screen was pretty darn clean. Could not feel any sludge on the bottom of pan. So must have been off and cleaned. I was going to swap out the front axle this weekend, BUT the springs that were used with the later axle under it are two inches wide, should be around 1-3/4" for the axle I was going to use and the mounts. They must have ground down the eye in front but did not do anything about the shackles in the rear, wondered why they were so wonky looking! So will have to take changing it off the table for now. One of the rear tires was beyond petrified, it was turning back in to carbon! LOL I swapped it out with another used one that I had. Got it mounted and on the car before I saw the splits in the side wall! Oh poo! I dropped the pressure down to just enough to support the car. The tube in it is newer and don't want to wreck it. Tomorrow I am going to change the top radiator hose and look at turning starter/gen the correct direction. Right now the fuse is on the engine side and can't easily get to the screw to take the brush cover off. Need to see why no charging.