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Brooklyn Beer

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Everything posted by Brooklyn Beer

  1. I am actually the second person today to have this issue and have explained it better on the tech forums.
  2. Well out for a ride and a great firm pedal that is still not releasing 100%. But much better for sure. Just a little toe grab up. On a hill it will roll backwards though after a stop. So my guess is the valve is not allowing full return flow without a little help. Have a kit coming from Arizona Vintage Parts. But poking around in there did a lot of good. Thanks for the tip.
  3. I am figuring that would included in the rebuild kit? Like I said I was having zero issues and then it went to the floor like I blew a cylinder or a line. Investigation showed neither. I pulled it back manually and has not done it again (down to the floor) so I was assuming it was something in the master. When it was to the floor the brakes stayed engaged. When I pulled it back they disengaged.
  4. OK, cap off, Push down on pedal no movement of fluid at all on release. Pull back. Peddle is very firm, plenty of fluid. Take a straightened paper clip and find the hole straight down and get paper clip to go in easily and wiggle it around. Went in pretty far. repeat process and get a little blurble now on release but pedal still won't fully return. It is better for sure. But remember in my case the brakes went to the floor first and would not return. I didn't have brakes on the first push till I returned it manually and then the pedal got firm again. Now I have a good peddle but still wants to stay 1/4 depressed. Will take for a ride after dinner and see if the brakes are disengaging when I release the peddle. Before they weren't unless I manually pulled the pedal back. This all happened of course with no warning. Rebuilding it I am sure would not hurt in anyway and give me a good reason to change the fluid.
  5. My 50 Chrysler was stopping fine day before yesterday. This morning it started doing the same as yours. Sounds contagious ha. I am not following you though on where the return is. Cap off, look in fill hole. Press pedal slowly and release. The return should squirt from the back of the cylinder. Are these what the series of holes are around it? Or am I way off?
  6. Thanks. Will get into it. Drove fine 3 days ago. Parked. Today this. Is a new one for me. So this return will keep the pedal from returning ? The brakes stayed engaged till I pull the pedal back manually then release as normal. And manually pulling back it is will some resistance. Lets hope this doesn't start a pandemic here as I have a few others with this master. maybe it caught it from my 63 Dodge.
  7. Interesting issue arose today. Was getting ready to go for a ride and thankfully only made it to the end of the driveway before things turned bad. Went to hit the brakes and down to the floor she went. Handbrake stopped me fine. Pulled pedal up with toes and proceeded to turn car around thinking I blew a wheel cylinder and pulled back into drive only this time pedal went 1/2 way down and stopped the car, put would not return fully. Brakes stayed engaged. Lifted up with toe and brakes released. Got it ready to go up the lift once I get finished with the brakes on my 63 Dodge 880 this afternoon. I do not have a blown wheel cylinder so am I correct in guessing the master just took a dump on me?
  8. As we got to talking about tires I decided to go for a ride and see about low speed turning. Well that idea lasted until the end of the driveway when the brakes went to the floor and stayed there. Odd thing it stayed there with brakes on. Pulled it up with my toe and brakes released. Drove out and turned around and this time only went halfway down with brakes working but stuck there. Lifted again with my toe and got her ready to go on the lift. No blown wheel cylinders. It pumps up and brakes fine, just won't release. Something tells me my master just crapped the bed. Hello Sunday!
  9. I have the correct width bias plys on the 49 roadmaster. I can drive turn that all day long with one hand. the Chrysler no.
  10. Has pretty wide radials on it as when bought. It just seems to take forever at garage speeds to get the puppy turned in the right direction is all.
  11. My 50 windsor 2 door is literally like trying to dock the queen mary at slow speed maneuvering. Double the nose heavy of my 49 Roadmaster big straight 8. I think the steering box was designed for going straight with turning as just an added option...
  12. The 53 Plymouth survivor I got for a song that was a scaled up mess runs actually better then my new Tundra. It was using oil but now after driving it 250 miles a week to work and back for 3 months it has slowed up a vast amount where I will now be starting to run a good mileage oil while continuing the MM oil in the gas. It was about 1/2 qt a week but like yours no smoke. Love these motors.
  13. This would be one comfortable cruising car for sure. I might need to build another car barn..
  14. I think many sellers are about to get a wake up. That Dodge I posted is now relisted at 2800.
  15. Almost bought that REO a few times over the past month till I found a 39 Chrysler with O/D
  16. I don't have any skill in plastic molding or 3d printing but would like to help out in some way with this project if I can. I just picked up a 39 Chrysler Royal needing these repairs.+ Could a spare glove box door, etc.. be used in the mold process?
  17. The car was changed to sealed beam headlights in the 40's. Need the parts to change it back correct.
  18. Looked on Ebay for one and about crapped. What common filter cartridge are people using for a 39 Chrysler?
  19. Scientific ventilation was an interesting read. Anyone ever drive around with the cowl open and have dry feet ?
  20. Excellent. Thank your for sharing the link. Amazed they still had spark control in 1939
  21. Found me a very nice survivor 39 Chrysler Royal survivor but it was retrofitted with sealed beam headlights back in the 40's. Like to go back to original. Any leads on the required parts?
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