Brooklyn Beer

I wish that was the case here. Everyone seems scared of "old" tires. Think they give a high price so you don't want it done. All young guys lacking any experience.

I want to do it because I want to do it. Tire store here in town wants 60 bucks a tire to demount then remount. Right now I want to get a new tube in the one tire to move the car around. Already broke the bead on the one flat tire in 5 minutes. This tire has been on here looks like for 25 years easy. Wasn't this something they used to do on the side of the road? Watching this vid I figure it works the same way. My rims are not wire.

Pretty vague in the manual. Just soapy water on the bead area. No pictures. No mention of a safety bead.

Going to be replacing the tube tires, non split ring, on my 39 Chrysler. One has a cracked valve stem. Have spoons and irons, new tubes and tires. Right now I need to replace one tube to move the car around and then in a couple weeks I will be changing all after sandblasting, then repainting the rims will be putting new tires on. Watched a few vids on changing tube motor cycle tires. Guessing car tires change the same way. Found an old thread about removing and replacing tires and tube will rim is on car. Lots of baby powder. Anyone have any hints? Never changed an antique car tube and tire before. Secondly, what is good paint for rims. These were red. Not going for full resto look, something I can just paint here. Not going the powder coating route. These still show that they were red and were striped. The spare rim is in good shape but the others need sand blasted, primed and painted.

How do the rear quarter windows on this model roll down? On the Chrysler they roll towards the back in an arc and then down.

about looks like they copied a 50 Chrysler hardtop coupe.

As was pointed out to me, having the right size tire on the car does wonders. I can turn my 49 buick easily with one hand without power steering. My 50 Chrysler with wide modern radials is like docking the Queen Mary into the wind.

Passenger rear looks like they ran out of bondo to get it the correct depth compared to the drivers side. Also, but it seems you see a lot more 42 Studebakers then 1942's of the bigger makers? Am I wrong ?

Now you make me want an Edsel lol

Anyone have an operating one to spare? Mine was disconnected when I got the car and will work when hooked up but it gets very hot in a short period of time. Can these be repaired?

Why did Edsels get a bad rap ?

The kick down, kick out switch that is linkage operated to down the shift the trans from overdrive to 3rd gear.. Even a picture of the correct switch with bracket is much appreciated.

On my 39 Chrysler it was explained to me as it heats up, the little weight on the end of the arm helps to close it. I have no spring and have mine wired closed being it is summer. Yours looks stuck open.

Fill the fluid coupling. I use Super Tech (walmart) Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission oil. I remember researching this and asking a ton of questions when I got my 46 Dodge and this was the answer I got. I am sure there is an ISO number but my jug is pretty crudy to find it anywhere. I bet if you do a "fluid drive oil" search on here you'll find out more. If the coupler is dry figure of almost a full 2 gallon. On the passenger side trans tunnel there is a little removable plate like you have for the brake fluid. Remove the cover. Now pop off the coil wire and "bump" the motor a little at a time till the plug becomes visible. Remove the plug WITH A MAGNETIC SOCKET. You drop it and have fun crawling around removing the dust cover to retrieve it. Fill it till it's full. Your car will not move until you do. so. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_Drive

On a recommendation instead of rebuilding the wrong carb and still having a not so good carb I am looking for a period Stromberg BXV for a 6 cylinder Dodge or like.. From what I can gather, and if I am wrong please correct me, I need one of these 3 carbs. Good solid complete with linkage rebuildable core. If someone knows of one better I would be glad to hear it. Un chartered water here. D11 Stromberg BXV-3 A-18073 D14, D17, D19 Stromberg BXV-3 A-18123 42 Stromberg BXV-3 380079

So I am guessing the standard Stromberg BXV would be a good choice?

Thank you Jon. ! Can you tell me the difference between the D6H2 I am running now that seems a little rich until totally warmed up and the Carter E6N1 ?

Right now the car has a Carter D6H2 1 barrel , 6-595 with a small stamped 7EO before the D6H2. From what I can find it is for a late 40's Plymouth. What I am having is a little wee-page around the shafts which I am pretty sure is causing a slight vacuum miss at low idle. It will need rebuilt and as far as I can tell it will be much like the one of my 46 Dodge. But cannot nail down what should be on it. I would like to find the correct one even if a rebuild-able core.

I would say so being the car only needs heat for the cheap fuel at start up to help atomize. Fuel back then was not a good constant. It was so bad back in 30-31 that Franklin actually had what can be described as a toaster element in the fuel supply to create gasoline vapors on cold starts. Imagine putting a red hot element much like a cigar lighter into today's gas.

poof?

If I didn't buy my 31 Franklin last year I really would look at buying yours for sure. I don't have anything your looking for in trade sadly.

Thank you. Mine seems to be almost weighted to go in that direction. Will put a simple spring to it.

Thanks buddy. on the way

Have any left ?

Actually today it ended up at both...