Brooklyn Beer

Reason why I have a couple 1700 -1800 dollar beater mopars that I can drive back and forth to work with no worries.

Been reading up on it. Seems filling in the attachment holes with bondo and painting is quite normal.

We have a mechanic in town who has been there 28 years I guess. He fixes appliances on the side. Except Sundays as he is also the pastor. Shop has a waiting list.

Not me pointing any fingers. I am a plumber and if there ever was a bunch of schiesters that give the trade a bad name then it would be house plumbers. Big reason I do only commercial work in hospitals and schools.

Update. Car is not here yet. Have had 3 transporters back out with this one (Road Runner) trying to get a truck load of cars heading this way before they can commit to a date. At least they were upfront about it. The other guys said "SURE" then a week later said they could not get enough cars on a truck to make it worth while heading towards Dallas. I have a friend that does local hot shot deliveries in a couple states around TX and he says these guys are grabbing government contracts to move around medical equipment and dropping car shipping when it pops up. Sounds about right. Thankfully the older couple that has the car is very understanding.

OK, after rebuilding the 1950 Windsor master twice (second time with new old stock parts because new sucked) I got around to swapping the lines at the splitter block for the front and rear off the master and the backs started getting hot still after a 3 mile stop and go drive around the neighborhood. So I will make a new line from the block to the rears this weekend and see if that helps. If not i am going back to the single punch bowl master !

All I can say is that if he has that 9 port vacuum switch working that controls the heat and AC and the 4-5 actuators that alone is worth the headache savings. Mine is hot wired with a on/off switch under the dash for the blower motor and the damper door is the cable for heat or no heat. The rest is non functioning. Total disaster of vac lines everywhere. The part is about 100 bucks but tracing everything takes a full week easy.

Still looking.

Have not heard anything for months. For me that is a good thing. All I know is when I sent the state of FL DMV person handling the cars they had seized my title work from TX, he informed me numerous people were contacting him and the police saying they had bought the same car in his inventory as many other people and that the Buick I bought had been resold at least twice by claims. That happened months after I had possession. That the original owner of my car claims he had only been paid 1/2 the promised money yet had signed the title over prior and has a lawsuit against them. Nobody has ever contacted me claiming ownership. Title is in my name and has been long before this shit show started. Title previous when I changed it to me was in the dealers name and FL DMV told me the previous owner had tried to cancel that title from MN. Car stays in a locked garage with a kill switch and security camera on it as I am sure by now whomever says they own it knows where it is. I keep wondering when a letter from a lawyer will show up. When that happens it will get moved across the street to my neighbors garage.

What a very nice car and thank you for sharing. I have never seen one.

OK, after attempt number 1 friday night with a new kit I did not like it at all. maybe because I was afraid to hone out to much or maybe the cups were too hard but it just would not return correctly at all so after bleeding the rears I quit and waited for the NOS kit and glad I did. So saturday afternoon the NOS parts showed up and I started over. Honed out the cylinder more even though I could not feel a ridge by how the new kit was acting when installed. I fitted the new piston a couple times and the seal was great and no feeling of any ridge so after a deep cleaning with alcohol I put things back together. Everything sure felt a lot better for sure and even without the pedal return spring, the piston return spring had the pedal fully up. Finished assembly with a little fine tuning of the bushing plate with a set tool and no leaks. Filled it up and bled the system Didn't take long to get a good pedal and then went back around again to be sure. Started her up and YIPPIE, good brakes. Drove around the yard a couple times and parked it as I ran out of time. Big opening for the restaurants in town and I had the 49 Roadmaster to wash and wax for appreciation day One question. Should the piston stop at the plate or right before it? I turned rod in a little to get it off the stop plate some.

Someone already has it bid up too 25K yikes

Is it just reflection of does it seem to have more bondo then metal ?

Yes, we have been trying them out but am still on the look out for the correct tube. I drilled out a chevy tube to correct specs and it runs and starts and idles OK but still lacking

Would not happen to have the correct low speed jet tube would you ? 11-120S ?

Now i am wondering if the rod was all the way in the piston. On the new one no way for sure. But longer looks better as it won't block the hole. I used the old piston with new rubber. bled 3 brakes before giant tornadic thunderstorm chased me in last night. It seems to be working but I have that lip so when the piston returns all the way it has that "catch" exactly the depth of the cup on the piston. The weep stopped.

Looking at the rubber on the piston of yours. One end is solid while the other end has 2 different layers for lack of a better term. That sold end is towards the piston stop correct ?

I have had pertronix now in the 49 for quite some time. Haven't even looked at since i installed it. Runs fine with a hair miss once and a while put I can't focus on the timing light or mark so most likely just timing off a hair

I just got mine all back together and found some of the new parts were not up to par with some of the old parts. Thankfully the most important parts seem all good to go BUT the piston was a big problem. The rod did not fit very well and in comparison to the old one only about 1/3 of the way in. So I took the new rubber off the new piston and put it on the old piston. (which was brass) The rest of the new parts fit fine. Getting the piston back in sucked especially with the new spring but all is back together. Found one issue. Brakes are not bled yet. It seem at the very front of the bore is a lip. Enough so that when the peddle is pulled to the full return it has a catch when the rubber cupped end of the piston is all the way out at full pedal height and is up against the boot collar and piston stop. It is easy to feel in the peddle. But ever so slight and so quick to get past. But it gets a little weep from it. I am going to say it is too much to hone out. Is it time for a new master ? Once it is past this point it seems to be functioning fine. I held the boot back and worked the pedal and did not see any weep until it hit that very end of travel point. Can I just adjust the pedal to stop a hair lower and shorten the piston return by a hair or will this cause the brakes to drag ?

What part# and manufacturer is the check your using on your set up? The lower looks like a simple swing check I install on water heaters which I would not think is optimal for a vehicle do to the start stop motion on the swing part. I am thinking yours is a spring check and curious to where you found one rated at such a low PSI

So today as I give a break to the continuing brake issue on the 63 Dodge I tossed the 50 Windsor up on the lift and decided to go look at the brake issue here. So right away I see the leak and fluid. OK, let me try the easy approach first and see what the bore looks like. Remember this is an unrestored car and the surface rust on the master shows it so wasn't hoping for the best case when doing the simple rebuild approach. The bolt through the push rod was stuck and some liberal PB blaster got it moving. Had to modify a 7/16 deep socket a little to get it past the leave out on the bracket and onto the one end bolt to take off the end plate. Draining the fluid it was nice and clean. Good sign. The manual that came with the car showed that the previous owner was keen on upkeep judging by his hand written notes. Pulling the guts out and investigating I was treated to a shiny bore with no pitting. Could not feel anything but silky smooth. I think I might have gotten lucky. So tomorrow I will run a hone down it quick and flush it out. The rebuild kit I have shows the parts match what came out except the piston is aluminum but the same length. The spring is also about 1.5 inches longer but will chalk that up to use. I did find a factory original kit and will wait a couple days to get that and see how that looks. Big thing I saw on the piston I removed was how sloppy the rubber seal was. But by everything i have read concerning rebuilding from factory service bulletins, I should be able to do it in the car and save some time..

Boy the teal/green 4 door is nice if all the work done is indeed true. Great family car. I think at this year in time the flat 6 was looked at as outdated and the market shows it.

No I did adjust that rod and I am not seeing anything in the manual. I can not find anything about that. I will have to crawl under the dash and see. But if this was the case would it not be both the front and rears?

I honestly can not see how I could have gotten it backwards being I only take apart one side at a time. Will check. But blowing out the line from the front distribution block to the rear hose connection seems more of what I need to do. Through this entire process of tracing the issue I have never had to back off the adjuster to get the drum off. When it sits the pressure in the line slowly bleeds back to the master. Being that both hubs are sticking it is either in the front of the rear distribution block or the line from the new front block. Is there anything I should use to flush the brake line after blowing out the fluid?