Brooklyn Beer

Being this most likely is the same for every car that had chrome surrounds on the vent windows and such I am curious to what budget fix people have done to spruce them up on basic driver cars? I have a 39 Chrysler which I am changing out the seals on and the back vent windows have some pitted chrome issues. I went over them with CLR and a green pad and now have pitted chrome. What is a good budget fix?

NAPA 90W SAE GL1. Just used it in my 39 Chrysler with OD. Tossed in some seal conditioner with it. remember that it takes some time for the fluid to run over and fill the rear so a slow fill is needed. I just pumped up the fill hole and shoved a rag around the hole and overfilled it. Let it sit for 8 hours and removed the rag and let the excess drain out. They come in gallon jugs. Are you saying you have a drain and fill plug for both? 4 plugs total ?

I know French Lake auto has some in stock. You can usually find the engine and trans still bolted together for one price. Contact any larger hot rod shop near you. Running motors usually can be had for cheap.

This would not be on a packard but same year running boards on another make. The bracket area's seemed to have the most problems. Original cracked rubber still on the entire board. Going to remove and then soak in an Oxcalic acid mixture and see what is left. The rest of the car is very solid.

It looks like these running boards need repair. I have this very like issue with a car I am working on now. Who is the go to source for running boards and rubber?

I just did the wheels on my 39 Chrysler as they came. Red just seems to announce "I am here !" Of course the rest of the car says "I have been here for 80 years"

all I know is that the hoods seem to go on for miles.

Mike it should wire in like mine on the 39.

Think I am going to keep it in freewheel / OD mode. Not much but flat land around here minus the one hill out front.

Gotcha. I am just worried if I pull it out it might not go back in !

Sorry, I don't anything about the 31.

The indicator light is actually in the center of the headlight switch. I have the original owners manual. On 39's the OD function to go in is strictly mechanical. Now to kick it out when climbing a hill there is supposed to be a switch that is throttle linkage activated. This switch gives a "stutter" in the distributor for a split second as the solenoid on the trans kicks it out of OD is the way I read it. The relay on the drivers fender powers the whole mess off the starter terminal. The fuse in the relay is suppose to blow if the system to kick it out of OD is engaged for too long and renders the kick down useless till you replace the fuse. I have everything put the linkage switch. Mine goes into OD nicely but have to find the sweet spot when shifting from second into third. Like 26 MPH which a slight hesitation when depressing the clutch and holding it out a split second and feeling the "clunk". I know when it it goes in because the RPM's from normal 3rd compared to OD is like night and day. When I got the car it is in free wheel right now and have been wondering if I should see what happens by pulling the knob out to disengage. But it runs good now as is. Brakes fine. They really beefed up the brakes with that free wheeling option. Same in my 31 Plymouth.

Just what changes in the broad line up of BB-1 carbs between plymouth models VS other makes? How would I know I am buying a BB-1 for a cylinder plymouth VS for a 6 cylinder Dodge?

Looks like someone had problems getting in and out of a garage at times.

Yes, mine does too. But I was given a 1938 starter with the foot switch. I am told the part numbers for the starters are the same but one with the foot switch and one without. I am trying to find out if I can change the foot switch to a solenoid

So what is the benefit over the big powered model VS the hand crank ones from like Neway ?

Is it possible to change over a foot actuated starter into a solenoid actuated starter? If so, what is needed to do it?

I think they are all overpriced on ebay. I just wanted to make sure I was looking at the correct item. I have a plan to rebuild a flat 6 for my 46 Dodge starting in the fall. Never did one before coming from SBC's in my youth with a long military break in between.

So where these made to be used with the motor in the car ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Van-Dorn-55-Deg-Type-D-Valve-Seat-Grinder-W-Dressing-Stand-Case-Tested/124130113355?hash=item1ce6bb374b:g:IrIAAOSwbqBee6~W

Since we are on the subject of "also great to have around tools" besides the normal things to tear down a motor and rebuild (torque wrench, etc) what have other folks found that makes life easier for flat head motors?

Cannot say I have ever seen one like this used before. Does it take much to turn the wheel to compress the spring and get the keepers out ? Arthritis is asking.

Wish I had done a little more research into the DRT-08 209s "correct" carb before I bought it trying to bring the car back to stock. Evidently that one year carb was so problematic that it was replaced instantly sometimes with the BB1 within the first few months. Wish I had gone that route and avoided the headache of having to make a jet idle tube from a chevy work 95% in the DRT-08. But it starts instantly and runs and drives very well with it. Just idles a little bit higher then it should. Brass bowl carters are an experience for someone who never worked on one before. Maybe one day I will forget the expense and headache and get the other carb. Evidently the original air cleaner I have is worth more then the carb as they all got pitched when the DRT-08 carbs were changed out.

Real shame after all the work and headaches I went through getting the carb issues worked out. Fun car to drive. But the difference in going from driving the 31 Franklin to a 31 Plymouth is like a caddy and a yugo. Plymouth has to be over 1/4 smaller to start.

Looking for a cheap, use it once in a while , valve spring compressor (c type) for mopar flat heads. Can anyone recommend one ?

As I am now tracing down an odd tap tap that started saturday morning I did a compression and vac test to see if the valve train was working correctly. From front to back on a cool motor they were between 80-76. Vac was 18-19 but at increased RPM it actually dropped. Little flutter at idle 17-19. The tap tap has gotten quite a bit less just doing the vac test. It is in the lifter gallery as far as I can tell. It is odd that it just came out of the blue. No warning. Still has same 35-40 oil pressure at idle hot.