Brooklyn Beer

I don't know about other people but for some reason when I am out for a cruise the road always either leads to the beer store or here...

Need the over drive kick down switch that bolts to the head and works off the carb linkage.

Mine is missing the spring and none functioning and just flops back and forth. Until I can find the spring what is the correct position of it closed to stop heat transfer for the summer? Lever up or lever down ? With good gas today I doubt I even need it

Thank you. Being I cannot find the correct jet tube for my DRT-08 I am going to look at swapping out for a BB1.

Need a 160 for a 39 Chrysler is you have one

You would not happen to have the same spec sheet for a BB1 updraft would you? I am looking at changing out my finnicky DRT-08 209s

Continuing onward. Like to replace the shocks on the 39 Chrysler Royal. Sadly all I find on line are 200 dollar PLUS sets of 4. Mighty steep me thinks. Well same year plymouth and Dodge shocks are half that. Can anyone tell me if they are interchangeable ?

Just replaced the lines in my 63 Dodge. the rubber lines will swell in and causing hanging brakes. My rear lead was so rusted inside I was able to pull a vacuum on it for 5 minutes

Good deal ! adds are never dead !

As I continue to sort through things I am now looking at the sloppy shifter linkage at the column connection. It will literally fall out of reverse and when going into reverse the shift handle touches the steering wheel. You can go out side at the connection and shift the car from there almost. Just how hard of a job is it to refurb this area and are parts available to do it? It looks like someone days past tried to tighten it at the linkage connection but never took it apart to get inside it. And does anyone know if this repair is detailed in the Motors repair manual for this year ? On a bright now I have the over drive figured out and working. Just missing the solenoid switch. Wow what a difference in RPMs when in O/D as opposed to straight up 3rd.

Well went for a 15 mile stop and go drive and things started getting warm again. Not hot but not as cool as the front brakes either. At this point I am about to go back to the single punch bowl master. The only place not checked out was the new distribution tee at the front

The entire run to the back was that factory "spring" type covered line and it was very soft even after 60 years. Defiantly not stainless. I figure this harder steel line should last at least that long with limited driving now. On danger spots I slid over some rubber vac line I had laying around.

In our lifetimes we shall meet no greater men then these....

Well the parts house was nice to call after I left and said they found a roll of zinc steel line so being I figure it will surely outlive me I went and got it. I could barely unroll the old stuff I had here. The old line came out in 2 pieces so of course the new line went in the same way and I was able to use all the old clamps. The 20 dollar double flare tool gave all it had to make the correct ends in that "soft" steel line but in the end no leaks at all 4 connections. Bleed the brakes and went for a quick 3 mile ride before the rain came back and all felt nice and cool. Tomorrow will get into town and hit every stop sign and light I can find and see if things stay cool. Love how those early 60's Mopars ride.

Going back with 1/4 and gives me a good reason to buy a roll of 1/4 Nickle copper and not attempt to bend and flare the old steel stuff I have here. And yes, I misstated, With my vacuum bleeder I was pulling and holding 15-18 in.-HG Mercury for about 5 -10 minutes. Of course nobody in town has copper nickle brake line and I will be following your advice Paul on what you explained in another thread of running brake lines and annealing.

Exactly what i just found today. Disconnected the splitter at the rear and sucked back through each bleeder. Good flow in reverse. Took brass T off and cleaned it out. Not stopped up. Went up front and disconnected the line feeding the rear. Went to the back and stuck the flex line in a pop bottle filled with fluid and went back up front and proceeded to start vac pumping. It held 15 pounds coming back to the master for 10 minutes before slowly starting to suck back. So ripped out the old line and replacing. Question. Being I now have a dual master can I run 3/16 to the back (Because I have a coffee can full of the correct nuts) or should it be 1/4 inch (which i don't have a can full of fittings for)

It won't hurt staying in as it is not an acid. But it has a freeze point close to water. The stuff works better when it gets up to temperature. Won't hurt brass or rubber or copper. But if you had a leaky freeze plug that rusted shut you'll find it. You will see more scale then you think because once the rust is gone that is holding it to metal it flakes off. That is why you need to flush everything in every direction possible by removing all the hoses.

Kieth you can run it all summer if you like. It is still working till it turns as black as coal. I am about to start it in the 39 Chrysler I just picked up for the next 3 months. In September I picked up a 53 Plymouth survivor for 1700 bucks that nobody could get to stop overheating. 51K original miles. Ran evaporust for 7 weeks and pulled the water distribution tube that was clogged. What came out in flushing was unimaginable. But it was shiny inside. Tube came out like butter. (Normally a nightmare) Ran a mix of evapo rust and coolant to keep things at 5 degree's and drove all winter like that. Twice a week, 35 miles each way to work and back and it never got warm again till this past week when it hit 97 and I got stuck in traffic. But it didn't overheat.

Yes, that is the elusive kick down / solenoid switch. Now I know where to start looking for mine. So far though everything that has been disconnected still has the original wiring with taped over ends. Yesterday when I was changing the oil and trans oil I was able to find the other wire coming from the trans solenoid that is supposed to connect to the distributor. So I have all the wiring. I was looking for that switch near the carb, So if yours has never been working I am to assume that it has nothing to do with the car going into Over Drive? It is strictly a mechanical feature with the switch disengaging it when getting to a hill and the gas pedal going past a certain point ? Took the old girl out yesterday and think I was getting into over drive by following the procedure of getting up to speed in second, releasing the gas for a special, and then shifting into third. But driving on "mai-pops" I was not going to push the car past 40. Still want to repack the drivers side wheel bearings after doing a brake adjustment and repacking on the passenger side. Looked like still had the old "GAA" type grease in it and in good shape. Just a little thin. So on the list of things for today is: Flush the motor, change the thermostat as the car is running 190+ after 12 miles in 86 degree weather. Refill with straight Evapo-rust for the summer. Change plug wires, cap, rotor, condenser, and clean points. Still have an every once in a while slight miss at idle.

AH HA ! way in the back of supplemental for 1939 is the correct wiring diagram. Now I know I am missing the solenoid switch and have no idea where it goes. Paragraph also explains the kick down procedure. I have to find out where the small wire going to the distributor has been terminated because it is still attached to the solenoid on the trans. Someone had sliced the wire from the starter together with the larger wire from the solenoid as well. Guessing all this was done with the jumper in an attempt to bypassing the failed relay. Well I have a nos relay coming. Need to find the switch and if it goes on a bracket near the carb or works off the gas pedal? Really could use a picture of this relay wired up.

Marty I think I am going to stick with the sealed beam for a bit as I am going to have rewire the entire car first after inspection. I did send you an PM though about some other stuff

I see a very nice car. I am still hinting for a replacement to my broken leaf spring on my 31.

Found out the "key hot" wire coming out of the loom near the firewall is for the automatic choke. The choke is "semi functioning" when powered up but gets so hot so quickly I can see why they removed it. Being it is summer here I will leave that alone for now as the car starts fantastic without any choke. Also that these automatic chokes are like gold and a simple pull cable for 12 bucks instead 150 bucks for an NOS auto choke seems like a better deal.

Sure could use a couple pictures of how this looks wired onto someones car

Looks to me the jumper was put in place to bypass the fuse. Am now guessing the power for the relay comes from the starter onto that terminal. Somehow the gas tank is supposed to work off this and a wire from the distributor