Brooklyn Beer

Glad i bought a new one. Under the car today doing the trans oil and see another wire hanging below the starter with a big eye on it and another wire heading north towards the relay/solenoid on the firewall. I am guessing this is supposed to be attached to the starter (which post?) with the other wire to the relay. (Which terminal?) The wiring for this thing even though intact is a freaken nightmare with everything now the same color. Still trying to find out the reason for the jumper

I know this is an old old old OLD thread but am using it today. If your still around am I I to understand that the overdrive stays engaged manually and the solenoid is only used for kick down ?

ok, mine of the royal is blue

Found the correct lube at NAPA. GL-1 90 sae gear oil (Mineral). 14.55 a gallon was a deal.

Jack looks different then the total wiring schematic I have from the manual and even that one shows an extra solenoid for the C24 that my C23 looks to have never been wired for. Upon further inspection today i found a 3rd disconnected wire only this one is small and comes out of the loom at the center of the firewall with a factor eye connector on the end. It is too short to reach any relay on the fender. If anything it might go to the coil? When the car is running it is powered with 6.2 volts. And concerning the coil. Mine has to be original. The main coil wire is screwed on and there is only wire connecting post showing on the front of the coil going to the distributor. Is it powered from behind? and inside the car? It is the only reason I can think I have this wire taped off at that position on the firewall. I did not check yet if it is key powered but will after I have beer and lunch

OK, removed the disconnected relay and bought a replacement as upon removal I could see parts missing / broke off/ ? here is the back side of the replacement and the back of the old one. Just what is the purpose of the brass piece screwed in like a light bulb socket pin connector? Whatever that connector is at the base of that device my old one doesn't have it.

What makes this different then a Royal?

Had this similar issue on my 50 Chrysler. Battery would be on charge for a day and still "chatter" the starter. Like it was not engaging correctly. At the same time I was having a ground issue and changed out the main battery ground where I cleaned the terminals and installed the new ground and thought I had the problem fixed. Weak headlights and and the ground would get warm when starting. Well it was raining that day so no drive, only a start and check connections. Seemed fine. But had been on charge all day till the time I started her up. Knew i would not be driving her for a few days so just put the maintainer on it. 3 days later I went out to go for a drive and the ground post was totally crusted over. Battery looked great from the outside but had a leak around the terminal and acid was escaping at a good rate after I replaced the ground wire. It wasn't doing that with the old ground wire. New battery and that starter issue vanished along with the crusty..

OK, found out the NAPA some 20 miles away has GL-1 SAE 90 gear oil. Will be grabbing that. Found (an lost) an article with a viscosity chart showing that SAE 50w motor oil is very close to SAE 90w gear oil. That had me confused for a minute with hypoid lube.

Can you take a picture of how that one relay is wired from the starter?

Good, at least I am going in the right direction here. Now I need to figure out why the one relay with the jumper has the wiring disconnected. The one with the larger lead coming from the starter. That wire the end is toast with no connector. The other wire which is more white in color was marked at one time with a paper tag but long since faded away. I would like to know what terminal these two wires attach too on that relay.

Well as I continue to go through the old girl I can honestly say it hasn't been screwed with much. Runs great, starts great. Looks all original so far. Electrical is all intact but is scary. Rhode Island has a 12 week backlog for the new harnesses so I am just going over things. Started under the hood checking things and as crusty and original as everything is, most everything seems working. Regulator working fine, Gen putting out required volts, etc.. But I do have some questions concerning a couple of the relays / solenoids I have found or am attempting to find. On the fire wall drivers side is the voltage regulator and below that I am thinking is the overdrive solenoid switch. Using the 1939 supplement schematic. Looked it up on line and looks like it. That is still all wired in. Now coming forward on the drivers fender is where things get dicey and not just the crumbling wire. I see one relay and one fused relay. The fused relay is a round dome and I have figured it to be the headlights. Next to that and below I have a relay which is not hooked up. It has a jumper across two terminals that is not factory. Close to this relay (?) I found 2 disconnected wires. One coming from the starter and one coming from the fender loom that has a factory end. No power from each even as car running. Everything is so dirty and crusty I cannot begin to saw what colors are. Tracing that fatter wire back to the starter I am thinking this is the overdrive solenoid relay and fuse. I have not removed the cover to look for a fuse yet. The supplement for 39 doesn't show this set up on C23, so going from the c24 wiring diagram. If anyone has a picture of how theirs is wired I would appreciate it. I can only find those 2 wires removed and taped up. Guessing the solenoid on the trans at sometime crapped out and they just disconnected the OD. Here is what I got. From what I can come up with is the jumper is to"bypass" another switch that was not on the 6 cylinder Royals? C24 schematic shows 2 more wires leaving this relay to one. The second picture on the firewall. Just what is the tube type parts on the end for?

The manual for 1939 states SAE viscosity No. 70 for summer, mineral oil. This is what I could find matching those specs.

Can someone explain to me how the OD functions in 39? I see it has a cable pull but also a solenoid?

I just went back and read the chapter on Lubrication and glad I asked the question as I skimmed over it too fast. On page 168 it gives "Transmissions Lubricant Recommendations" and then "Lubrication of Transmission with Overdrive.". Shows 70 SAE for summer and 50 SAE winter. Aircraft or engine oil. So I guess where can I find the required oil or is SAE 70 motorcycle oil OK?

So if I am right in understanding. 70 SAE motor oil in the OD unit and 140 gear oil in the trans? 80 W90 in the rear Only 70W I can find is motorcycle oil. Anyone have an recommendations

1939 Chrysler trans. Manual says SAE 70 for OD unit and SAE 140 for trans. What are folks using now? North TX and most driving is above 50 degrees up too 100.

Car I just found needs a starter rebuild. Needs a screwdriver bump now and again. Was curious if there is a replacement for the Max 4020A in the way of a mini, high torque, etc ?

Did not think it would last long. I actually thought of the possibilities of selling my 49 Roadmaster in exchange for this

finally on it's way ! Will be here tomorrow. She shall be an experiment in paint cleaning and preservation. Any hints appreciated.

They might have repainted it but that plastic dash benzel and glove door has to be original or one heck of a repo.

Brakes on this year should not scare anyone. Parts are available. Fronts only have a single wheel cylinder. Master have seen listed for a 140. Rebuild kits 28 bucks. Fuel system parts also easy to find to get things running. Hope mice didn't get in it. That dash is just what is needed to make the correct 3d print and CAD scan.

That plastic dash alone is incredible. Take it from me, I have been looking for the common colored ivory and no dice. Looked at many many in the past 3 weeks and not seen a blue one let one in this condition period

Paul the master on the 50 is working as it should. I get the blurble back in the master when I return the pedal through the port. Brakes releasing find. The NOS kit allowed the rod to seat at the depth within the piston as the old one. The new kit would not even allow the rod to even get more then 1/4 of the way in the new piston as the compared to the old one. On the 63 I swapped the lines going into the junction block so what was controlling the fronts is now controlling the rear and the rears still heated up. I have swapped out the single to a dual master. Changed the flex lines. Rear brake cylinders, adjusted more then once. So am going to bend up a new line going to the rear and see what that does. If the rod was not allowing the fluid to fully return would flipping the lines not cause the other set of brakes to start hanging up ?

Uship is where the screwing started