Brooklyn Beer

Now I after some thinking about how I drove the car yesterday and how I drove the car this morning one thing comes to mind that I did this morning that I did not do yesterday. Leaving for work I had to back out about 100 yards to turn around to leave the property. Yesterday when driving I did not do any backing up but just drove straight forward the entire time. Looking at page 5-5 and 5-6 of the manual the pictures show the adjuster and am assuming being one picture has the star wheel on the left and one of the right that is just relative to what side of the car your working on. Stupid question. What would happen if you have the adjuster and cable flipped around? The car is still at work tonight as I will be throwing it on my trailer tomorrow but this possibility has me thinking. Thoughts? Would not be the first time I was a bonehead.

Well victory was short lived. 20 miles from the house they began dragging again. Both sides. I think I can try two different routes next. Swap the lines at the splitter block and see if the fronts start getting hot or disconnect at the rear flex connection and blow the line out from the new master connection out towards the rear. What say you ?

Great minds think alike. I sent them a request the same time I posted here. I have the steering linkage here and the ball joints and would like to just knock that project out perhaps over the Memorial Day weekend when I get 5 days off.

Power steering gear box for a 1963 Dodge 880 as I wish to learn to rebuild one to replace the worn out one in mine. I do not have an interchange manual but the cars were basically smoothed over Chryslers from 62-64. Guessing something from a Newport or the like will work. Is a manual box available? Also need a passenger side tail light lense for the same car.

Will get the car on the lift this evening and start dismantling. The manual is not real good on the removal process. But before I do this I am going to see about cleaning out the relief port again. I don't think I was in the right hole when I stuck the paper clip in after going over the drawing closer with better glasses.

Have had little pop up events like that happen at the grocery store parking lot here whenever I drive one of the old girls in to do shopping. Today not so when it is approaching 95. Everyone has had their cars out and being no car shows everyone stops to look at each others car and before long 5 or 6 start an impromptu car show. Folks just looking for a good reason to be back to normal. My town had one confirmed case 6 weeks ago and nobody has ever really followed any of those guidelines or what their calling it. Now antibody testing though proved it did come through back in January but folks really just thought it the yearly "crud". Totally agree on the handshaking.

Well I am a novice to this type of repair for this car and I do have the shop manual. I have a complete shop here with a lift and a press and would like to avoid removing the front pan. I have a couple other mopars either side of 1950 I can use as reference if I get lost.

So a simple brake cylinder hone will work? Gathering parts now to do the job. Don't want to tie up the lift right now as i have the 39 Chrysler due this week and want to get that in the air first and give a good inspection and lube before starting on the 50 Chrysler. Don't get me started about projects. Was up at 3 to beat the heat and get the other side of the old barns new roof finished before we hit 96 today!

I doubt the fuel is bad. If anything it is better. I get eth free in town outside Fort Worth. Cars love it. Basic check list. If just quit running check for spark and fuel. Will it fire with a quick shot of starter fluid? A splash of gas down the carb?

Big fan of these 60-64 tanks. Like driving a mattress down the road. Mine got even softer with modern shocks

This will be a first for me. Have mostly dealt with 60's cars where you replace for the most part. So questions first. Can I rebuild it with it still in the car or should I remove it for a good going over? I am working with a car lift so access is easy. Should I run a hone down it or not? Can I clean it with scotchbrite instead if it is needing a good cleaning? What are some problem area's on removal and installation of new parts I should pay very close attention too?

Need to drive a Franklin. O.G.

OK, changed out all three brake lines and I think the back was original by the over spray undercoating on it. One of the fronts had been changed but the other side matched the rear. Only had one hose bracket clip shoot off into the nether region of the garage which is right next to the black hole for sockets. It is never to be seen again of course even after sweeping the garage out. So I have pick up a new clip. Spent the next hour bleeding brakes. OK, test run. I would call it a victory. Nowhere near as warm as yesterday. Black and white difference. Still need to do a final adjustment and one more bleed as I think the passenger rear has a wee air in it. One thing I instantly noticed is how much more "free" the car felt going down the road. Must have been dragging some since I got it as the difference was easy to feel right away and that big old 361 felt like a dog off a chain wanting to run. Love this club. I have never come here with a problem that the collective membership could not fix.

Like it.

I am going to get the new brake lines in an hour. I am a preferred customer at O'Reilys for some reason and they got them in record time. Already removed the back and it looked bad. Don't know if the undercoating was applied in 1963 or not but if so I would bet to say the line was original to the car with the amount of it on the end and clips. Some of the older brass nuts on 30's cars are prone to cracking. It caused a catastrophic event at one of the Franklin treks some years back. .

Just waiting on a hose. Seems brake issues are going around here. Also waiting on the rebuild kit for the 50 Chrysler master.

Holy crap. Would have never guessed. Thanks ! I have missed driving mine to work as it is my semi daily in the rotation.

49 was a good year in TX, I think I will drive mine into work tomorrow as well in Fort Worth.

This one has me stumped. Last month I installed a new dual master cylinder to replace the single. At the time I did new wheel cylinders, spring kits, shoes etc. Bleed the system clean with new fluid front to back. Adjusted brakes as I always have. No binding or grabbing. Free rolls in the driveway in neutral. Here is where the problem starts and I have had the drums off (cut clean) more times then I care to mention, changed brand and size of shoes twice and no matter what after a 4-5 mile ride the back brakes approach pretty hot at just 45 mph easy driving. The only I can think of at this point is that I crossed the new lines from the new dual master into the new distributor block and have the rears working off the front reservoir. Anyone?

I tend to ask questions and then look to see what other are running and make comparison. I find Rock Auto a good source because of the spec's they give. MOTORCRAFT SP473A {#SP473} Info w/ Aluminum Head; .025"/0.6mm, OE Style; Non-Resistor Plug; Copper $0.71 Add to Cart AUTOLITE 295 {#295DP} Non-Resistor Info .025 Gap; Non-Resistor Plug; OE Style; with Cast Iron Cylinder Head $1.01 AUTOLITE 306 Resistor Info .025 Gap; Resistor Plug; with Cast Iron Cylinder Head $1.19 Add to Cart AUTOLITE 216 {#216DP} Non-Resistor Info .025 Gap; Non-Resistor Plug; OE Style; with Aluminum Head $1.22 Add to Cart ACDELCO R45 {#19307612, 19354428} Professional; Conventional (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Info Gap .025; With cast iron heads $1.42 Add to Cart MOTORCRAFT SP480 {#A7C} Copper; Non-Resistor Info OE Style; with Cast Iron Cylinder Head; .025"/0.6mm; Non-Resistor Plug; Copper $1.42 Add to Cart CHAMPION 511 {#J11C} Copper Plus Info with Stock Cast Iron Heads, Non-Resistor Type; Gap .025" $1.52 Add to Cart ACDELCO C45L {#01559452, 19310645, 19422133} Professional; Conventional Info Gap .025; With aluminum heads $1.53 Add to Cart CHAMPION 592 {#RJ12C} Copper Plus Info with Stock Cast Iron Heads, Resistor Type; Gap .025" $1.75 Add to Cart CHAMPION 854 {#RH10C} Copper Plus Info Aluminum Heads; Gap .025" $1.93 Add to Cart Platinum (lasts up to 2x longer than copper) ACDELCO 7 {#19238458, 19360569, 25171346} Professional; Rapidfire (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Info with Stock Cast Iron Heads; Gap .025" $2.92 Add to Cart Double Platinum (lasts up to 3x longer than copper) ACDELCO 41833 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Professional; Double Platinum (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Info with Stock Cast Iron Heads; Gap .025"

I have a 1939 Chrysler Royal on it's way and after doing a web search I see choosing a spark plug is a very personal choice. But one thing I see is as many people choosing a resistor plug over a non resistor plug. So I was hoping someone with a greater set of electrical skills can tell me what really is the difference of running either in a stock 1939 motor ? And what plug would you run?

A good service brake and switching off the ignition in a split second. Can't soil the original wool interior !

So when the master fails what is the most common part that takes a dump ?

I have to replace mine

Very nice car for sure and owned for 65 years. That is amazing