Brooklyn Beer

All I know is I put radials on a couple cars over the traditional slightly taller and narrow original size tire and I went from easy non power assist steering (50 Chrysler) to trying to dock the Queen Mary against a stiff wind. I will be going back to the original spec tire

Right now I have 3 cars running straight evapo rust as total coolant since the end of April and will run it in them till it turns black. At that point I will flush the system and repeat. Come October one more flush and then coolant. I collect Mopar's and the flat heads really need this done for a few months before pulling the water distribution tube for the first time in generations that is always clogged at the rear and rust stuck in the block. I have taken cars that could not go 3 miles without overheating and turned them into daily drivers , 40 miles each way to work and back, just with a radiator flush out and evapo rust. I am running an experiment right now (14 months in) of mixing the evapo 50/50 with antifreeze. Still get correct temp protection and the thermo housing is shiny as can be. Rad looks great. Have not seen any drastic change in the coolants ability. Outside having to replace a few knock out plugs that only the rust was keeping from leaking, I have not seen any issues. Heater cores definitely work better.

Tranny was worth the price

Brakes on these cars are normally a simple weekend deal and that includes new wheel cylinders, master rebuild and flex lines. Parts are everywhere. Like it. If I wasn't looking for a 56 Buick right now I would grab it.

31 PA's really do better with the 32 carb upgrade.

The wear on the pedals tell me something

Interesting. seats jump out and the tires and wheels. Period white walls and a bench seat ?

Bulb contacts and bulb bases need cleaned. Grounds super critical on 6 volts. Check the rubber hoses on the brake lines. They will swell on the inside and not allow pressure to release hence holding on the brake lights. If he is adding fluid look at each inside Wheel for fluid. Bet it is time to do all 6 wheel cylinders and the brakes. Remember reverse threads on one side for the lugs. Should be stamped "L" and "R".

Yes, you can just put it in high range where 3rd would be and drive like it is a 2 speed with a semi auto shift (foot off gas at 16-19 mph and count to 2) and just repeat every time you come to a stop OR feel it down shift if slowing below 10 mph to make a turn.

Need one of these in a 2 door

The semi auto trans actually has 4 forward speeds in 2 different ranges (high and low and rumor is 2 ranges in reverse so a 6 speed?). It will look like like a 3 on the tree which it is not. You don't have a first. Low range is where 2nd would be and 3rd gear is the high range. Reverse is reverse. Fluid drive means you can come to a stop leaving it in gear. Starting out in high range on flat ground you just let your foot off the gas for a second or two at around 16-19 mph and wait to hear/feel a little CLUNK as it drops into the 2nd gear of the high range. Coming to a stop it will down shift into the lower gear of the range selected automatically. You then repeat. Starting on a hill or want a little more pep then start in low range and at about 5 mph let off the gas and it will shift, you'll then need to use the clutch to get into high range and repeat the "foot off the gas" sequence for that range. Normally I just keep it in high range. It launches fine. I would not mind having this car for work. Parts are easy and everywhere. I take my 50 Chrysler Windsor Newport coupe to work at 60 mph regularly.

Points. Once I got them out you could really see the problem with the angle on the contacts and pitting. Cleaned all the connections in the distributor. New points, condenser, cap, rotor. New ground wire in distributor. Literally fired over on first crank. Miss is gone ! I like little victories. Makes for a good day. Really surprised the O'Riellys here had everything.

Well I got some time and got back to it. After checking out the existing coil and getting proper readings I reinstalled. I changed out the old condenser and checked gap on points. New cap and rotor. Checked coil wire. Turned it over and fired up and ran nice for about 1 minute then crapped out. Every once and while I get it to cough and then no spark again. Have it on charge now and have new points to install. One thing I am seeing with the points besides a dull orange spark when I manually open them (battery) is it doesn't seem to be jumping the gap straight across all the time but down and out, erratic to say the least. New points are next. Thought I had it when it fired right over.

Citrus orange was a rare color in the day. I had one right after high school in 85.

And it is not a fluid drive transmission but the M6 "semi auto" with the fluid coupler. It is basically a 4 speed (some say 6 with 2 gears in reverse as well) with either a hi gear or low rear selection. Easily mistaken for a 3 on the three but instead where 2nd is ,is LOW with two "semi automatic" shift points and where 3rd is, is HIGH with 2 "semi automatic" shift points. At a certain RPM /speed you just lift your foot off the gas and wait for the CLUNK to let you know you shifted between the two gears in that range selected. The fluid coupler allows you to come to a stop without using the clutch. You do need to use the clutch to shift between high and low ranges or just keep in high range with a slower take off. Mine down shifts automatically at around 8 MPH to the lower gear in high range when approaching a stop and letting off the gas at 16 mph during acceleration will shift it to high / high. I have never attempted to confirm that there is 2 speeds in reverse but rumor says there is. Trans take SAE 10 oil. It keeps up with traffic very well but so much of the country doesn't respect or know how old cars operate that at times during a hill climb that shift point can lag under load and not shift into high high at the 16 mph point so you have to try again and not overrev it being stuck in low high which can have a tailgater in your trunk as you lose speed on the incline.

One thing Chrysler got wrong with this car is that when you roll down the rear windows you have a nice polished/ chrome detail that the window rolls up into. But the doors have the chrome attached to the top of the window so when you roll down your window your left with what looks like a "missing" piece of trim and a void. It is very pronounced when both windows are down.

Show here last weekend blew. If it was pre 1955 it was one class. One award. If you were in the back they never walked back there to judge. (Evidently they didn't have cars 1956-1966) But if it was 1967-1969 they had like 40 classes. Best brake shoes on a 1969 camaro, best seatbelts on a 1968 camaro, best dipstick on a 1967 camaro. If you had a 68-70 Charger you all took home co best of show with any GTO, Camaro, and Buick GN. Pre war was pre-Gulf War. Yeah it was that bad.

I bought the original 2 tone green one off here last year. This one looks just as nice

Have not forgot about the thread. Just OT out the ying yang. Going to pull the NOS coil. Check it. Might just toss in the new pertronix set up I have and see what happens. Works good in everything else I have

In between holiday stuff I tested the coil wire and it shows no drop off in resistance. Taking that out of the mix now. Have a new cap to trade out and condensor. Full voltage to everything with good connections. Then if no spark I am perplexed. Not messing with points yet as it ran just perfect before I parked it 3 months ago. Just can't even get a cough. This should not be this difficult to chase down !

so with 6 volt I am looking for non resistor core.

I am going to grab the wire and check it out installed in the coil to start and see if readings match. Wonder how much drop I should see in ohms through the wire.

Question on installing the coil wire into the screw in terminal. What is the proper installation of the wire? Stick some bare wire through and just fold it back so it make contact when screwing it in ?

Extra OT this week so gave up trying to get some time in the garage. Brought home my multimeter from work and re-tested the old coil. Seems the home meter sucks. Old coil is reading 1.3 ohms. Tested a new Petronix coil and it reading 1.3 ohms. (I do have a complete spare pertronix set up that will fit the car) So now I am leaning towards a crappy coil wire. Have to see if I can make a new one up. Going to pull the NOS coil I changed and reinstall the autolite with screw terminal and make me a new coil wire as well as a new lead wire to the distributor and see what happens. After that new condensor.

I never throw out anything. Like most old car people.