Victor W

When I dropped the pan on my 40 Special the gasket was held in place with fine copper wire through each bolt hole. Not sure if that was a factory trick or (more likely) an old mechanic's trick. I just used a little Permatex like others in a couple spots to hold the gasket while putting the pan back up in p!ace.

To answer the other part of your question 248 blocks are not hard to find if this one is bad. Finding a '37 block specifically maybe a bit of a search but not impossible. Like suggested I'd look for obvious signs like bulging frost plugs or evidence of coolant seeping out. Check the oil and look for coolant or water. Personally I'd be more concerned if the motor turns over if the car has sat not running for a long time. Looks pretty complete and stored inside are two big things in its favor.

I would agree that it probably doesn't need a full repaint to be a decent driver. Might not win any best paint awards at car shows but certainly could look good enough to drive around. The peeling like someone said is a lower quantity repaint in its past. Fixable, but only to a point. The big question is the running condition. As it sits I'd wouldn't pay north of $3-4000 assuming it doesn't currently run. I base that on the decent interior and it looks complete. I see vehicles of similar condition and vintage here in the Midwest selling for that. If not running make sure the engine is free first. Stuck motor pulls the price way down. If it runs and moves with no major issues like instantly overheating I think your in the $6-8000 range. Again based solely on personal experience in the Midwest. Your mileage may vary. --Victor

Since I've been on a update post kick today here's another on my cooling system. I have a '40 Special that I flushed the block on back this summer. I knocked the frost plugs out and scrubbed out the block really well (I thought). I have another post with the details. As a double check on my work I ran a pantyhose toe on the upper radiator hose. I know there are nice filters but pantyhose are cheap especially when thieved from your wife's dresser. I checked it twice over the few past few hundred miles and both times I pulled a quarter sized wad of rusty junk out of my low buck coolant filter. Amazing how much junk built up over 81 years! Thought it was a valuable follow up for others going through the same cooling issues. Filters really do help catch junk that would otherwise start plugging your radiator.

I wanted to provide a final update as to what fixed my charging issues. I hate threads left hanging with no resolution. It was the VR. I ended up with a reconditioned Delco Remy off of Ebay. Charging working as needed now. Took the cover off the new failed unit. No obvious sign of failure but I suspect the field coil is sticking somehow. I'll post a new thread of I find the obvious cause. --Victor

Yup my '40 Special has a curved face one that I believe to be original.

Whatever battery you choose I'll second what everyone has said about proper sized custom cables. I know they don't look 100% period correct but dang does my '40 roll over nicely with the set of new 000 cables I had custom made. Several online sources. Made to your request and ironically cheaper than if I had bought OEM looking cables. --Victor

When I bought my 40 it had some old fuel in it. I actually drained mine by disconnecting the flexible connector up front near the fuel pump and used a little compressed air (I stayed at 3-4 psi) to drain my tank and flush the old hard line. Worked well for me but overkill if you don't need to flush the lines.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to try a one from ebay that's an old but new in box Tungsten brand regulator. We'll see how it works.

Update to my previous update. I'm pretty sure its the VR. If I jump the field coil to ground it starts charging and stays that way if I'm running. Shut it off and it reverts to no charge until I jump it again. Odd failure I've never experienced but I guess. Anyone have source for a VR they recommend other the usual suspects (Bobs, Cars.Inc)?

Thanks guys. The brushes are what were in the car when I bought it. They look fair but I probably should throw a fresh set and new bearings in it. Might see if the local old tractor shop can look at the armature. The old VR was not serviceable. The previous owner had hooked the wires off the generator wrong. The current from the armature circuit literally melted the field coil wires. It was toast.

Status update. Ran a few tests and while leaving the field coil terminal on the VR grounded the generator started to work. Puts out 8 volts at full tilt. I had done that test before but it didn't work. One difference was I left it on until I saw the change. Continued charging after I disconnected the jumper. I'll keep monitoring but I think something is still suspect. The VR was from CARS. I asked for the '40 model and assume it's right as it resembled the old one. I've checked all my grounds (genny to block, block to battery, battery to body, VR case to body) and they are all good. What's more likely to be intermittent, the generator or the VR?

Thanks guys! I have done the cut out relay test with no luck. I'll try the test 37 Roadmaster suggested and report back.

So question on charging system fault finding. I have '40 Special where the charging system quit working. Was working fine (had replaced the VR) when one day the ammeter showed it was dead. I did the motor test to the genny ( hooking the genny straight to the battery) and it spins up like it should. Is that a valid test for genny? I don't have a growler and the manual is not very helpful on genny tests. I'm still suspecting the genny ad the VR is new. I tried grounding the field terminal with no change. Double checked my grounds and all the other wires and am a bit of a loss. So generator motor. Validation the genny work or?

Yup, that worked! Three whacks from the brass mallet and bingo. I'm a little embarrassed I didn't think to try that. Thanks for suggesting it