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Victor W

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  1. I'd highly suggest you make sure the block is clean before the radiator. I went through this same issue recently. I was amazed at how much rust, dirt and scale was in the block. I knocked out the frost plugs and flushed the block. You can see the results in a recent thread on Cooling System and Evaporust. I had tried flushing the block without doing that but it wasn't getting to the heart of the problem. My Special went from overheating within 2 miles to running cool and stable. I flushed, no joking, 4-5 pounds of crap out of the block. I put the temp rubber expanding frost plugs in for now as I plan to check if any more junk is stirred up at the end on the summer. I also back flushed the radiator and am running a filter on the upper hose which is also stopping any residual junk from making it in the radiator.
  2. So, brief update on this topic. After knocking out the frost plugs I flushed a ton of rust out of my block. Initial test ride on a 90 degree had it running right at 190 according to gauge, which is incidentally the thermostat currently in it. I ran 3 gallons of Evaporust through and testing it after 24 hours showed it was spent. Drained and flushed the block again. Got a little more rust but not much. Test ride now has the gauge staying at 180-185 on a day in the upper 80's. It seemed to do the job and the before and after photos show it definitely cleaned up the block interior.
  3. Hate to say it but you pump is going bad. Mine leaked the same when the diaphragm started to deteriorate. I'd get a fresh rebuild or the kit to redo it soon.
  4. Yup, that's the plan. After on hour of flushing it was much better, but as I moved the hose from opening to opening I would get rust scale accumulating at the other two openings. Plan is to continue flushing and scraping until no more sediment comes out. Then the radiator comes out for for a back flush. I'll assess at that point if I need it rodded out.
  5. So I knocked the freeze plugs out tonight. Wow! You guys weren't kidding. She was full of rusty mud. I scrapped and flushed for an hour and got pounds of junk out of the water jacket. It can't of flowed much at all. I'll flush and scrap a bunch more, but that was obviously the heart of the issue.
  6. Thanks guys. The bore scope is a great idea. I own one and never even thought to try it. Sounds like the wise and right move is to scrape out whatever I can first and then use the Evaporust. No disrespect to vinegar but I've used Evaporust before on other projects and am comfortable with how it works.
  7. Thanks for the tips. From what I gather I'm fine to give the Evaporust a go before knocking out any frost plugs. The radiator will get pulled and back flushed first as there's a lot of junk in the top tank. I'm thinking a new mechanical temp gauge would be a good addition temporarily to confirm coolant temp as well.
  8. Thanks for the replies. To be clear, I plan to remove the radiator and at minimum back flush, and more than likely have it rodded out. My big question was (and I wasn't as clear as I should have been)should I knock out the frost plugs and scrape the water jacket clean first, then let evaporust do its thing, or run the Evaporust first, then manually clean the water jacket?
  9. Working on a 1940 series 40 sedan. First, though I need to thanks the forum as I've been mainly lurking and learned loads that helped me get this Special up and running. The information here has been invaluable. I made it through most of the major systems on the motor (oil, fuel and charging) and am down to the cooling system. The car runs nicely but seems to be running hot as the temp gets to 220 pretty quick if the gauge is remotely accurate. By quick, I mean 3 miles at 45 mph and temp is kissing 220. Once warm the motor will push coolant out the filler neck in cycles. It's almost like there are parts of the block with minimal flow and the the coolant boil out of those spots forcing other coolant with it, then settles down until the cycle starts over. It builds pressure fast but it does act like a blown head gasket. So the problem is I think I may have made an error in bringing this car back to life. It was sitting with no coolant in it when I got it. It had been sitting for 10 year when I got it, and hasn't been on the road since 1959. When I first started it I neglected to put a filter on the upper hose. Checking when warmed up (or overheating) the radiator is half hot and half cooler. Feeling inside the filler neck I can feel what must be rust flake in the upper tank. My suspicion is I kicked those rust flakes into the radiator when I was running it without a filter plugged half of it. I have flushed the whole system about three times and drained a lop of crap, but obviously there is more. The block drain was partially obstructed. I have already replaced the water pump since the seal was leaking badly. So, my plan is to next run Evaporust in it to clean out the block, then knock out the frost plugs and scour out the block, and then get the radiator cleaned. My question is simply is that a reasonable plan? Or do I try to clean the block through the frost plugs first, and then run the Evaporust? Either way I figure the radiator needs to be the last step once the block is clean. Thanks for any advice.
  10. How nice of condition do you need? I have a right rear (passenger side) fender from a 1940 series 40 four door. The rear section is crinkled a bit, but certainly repairable. Let me know if interested.
  11. I have a 1940 Buick Special model 41 that I just dropped the oil pan on. I didn't find it difficult at all. I had read a few posts that lead me to believe it was a real tight fit, but mine came right off with no issues. I had the front end up on ramps and the splash pans were already off. It was just break all 32 bolts loose and then spin them out. I left two on either side mid-way along the engine to hold it up until I was ready to lower it so the weight of the whole pan wasn't on either of the short ends. A couple whacks with a soft mallet freed the pan as the gasket was sticking. The front bolts (4 if I remember) are accessible with a swivel on the end of the socket. Good luck on tracing the noise down.
  12. Thanks for the insight. I'm actually glad it isn't rare. I intend to make the car driver, but leave it unrestored. If it was a real rare bird I'd feel more compelled to do a full resto. I do have the wheel covers (3 actually, can't remember if its two rights or lefts), but don't have the hold down hardware yet. The neighbor and I have slowly working through the barn (and a 48' trailer!) finding parts and pieces. He's convinced he has them and I'm fairly confident we'll locate them at some point. I have poured over the car and haven't found any real rust or even weak spots except the flanges where the fenders meet the body and some pinholes in the rear valance below the rear deck lid. Those few spots look reasonably simple to weld in patches. The rear valance may be a bit of challenge, but the curve is simple enough. Amongst the small miracles on this car is I have yet to break a bolt. Everything has freed up with relative ease. I know I just jinxed myself but I could resist. Even got the heat riser freed and working correctly. Just penetrating oil and gentle tapping side to side. Thanks to whomever posted that tip. Next up is a new fuel pump (the current one squirts out the vents and wasn't corn gas ready) and a new water pump. --Victor.
  13. I've been lurking on the forum for awhile and thank you for all the wisdom. I figured I should introduce myself, and I have a question about a new to me 1940 Special. I am new to pre-War cars, but am really enjoying the learning process. So first a quick story. I had been on the hunt for a project car for awhile. I was mainly looking at trucks from the 50's and early 60's. Over the past year I been casually on the hunt and had gone and looked at a lot of machines. The truck market has gone nuts with serious junk going for dumb money. I had come close on a couple but never pulled the trigger. So in the irony of life, as I am coming home from looking at a yet another car I passed on I see an old Plymouth parked in front of my neighbors with a for sale sign. I stop and look and it was a decent looking 41 but was missing all the trim and the motor was locked. Despite my better judgement I give him a call. He quickly talks me out of the Plymouth, too far gone for anything other than a body swap, but he's got something he wants me to come look at. I knew this guy had a few cars, but he'd never been interested in selling and I hadn't pestered him. So I go back to his barn and he take me to the back. There's a 1940 Special in black. We roll it out and I give it a once over. It's partially disassembled, but all the big stuff is there, and he quickly shows me everything else it needs is in various spots around the barn. The car is really solid. Surprisingly so for an upper-midwest machine. There's a little rust behind the fender mounts (all the fenders are off) but the floors, pillars, and body exterior are solid. The interior is worn, but complete. It's titled and he swore it ran well when parked. He gives me a story then about the history of the car. He was the third owner. He had gotten it from his father when he died, and his father had purchased it from the original owner, a local pizza joint/bar owner, named Red Savoy. Red was a pretty well known character in St Paul, MN rumored to have won his bar in a card game. At this point I'm very intrigued, so I ask for a number and he throws out a price I couldn't pass. Crap, I just joined the world of Pre-War Buicks. He's a trucker and was headed out later that day so we work out a time for us to do the deal. We meet up at the appointed day exchange a little cash and as I'm loading the car on to his car trailer (yes it was that easy of a deal). He asks would I be interested in a second 1940 Special 4 door. I hesitate for a moment, and he says he'll make a real sweet deal and throw in a pile of parts (fenders, hoods, a couple motors, transmissions, etc.). Okay, how much I ask. He throws out another number which was far too low to pass. Crap, now I'm fully committed to the Pre-War Buick life! He'd didn't lie. I set to work on the black one and after cleaning the carb, dropping the oil pan, and checking the points, I was able to get it running and driving. It needs plenty, but it does run and drive. So for those for those who have hung in here this far, here's my question. In the pile of parts for the black car were the front fenders. They have the spare tire cutouts in them. The guy I bought it from claimed it this was it was factory and very rare for a Special to have the cutouts. I have not seen and reference to those cutouts for Specials anywhere. The fenders look factory, not like a shortened Roadmaster front fender. But just curious if anyone knows. Happy to post a picture of the fender if it helps. --Victor
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