Brooklyn Beer

Well today was the day to put all that problem solving back on the car and was rewarded with no gas dripping out as that was the major problem. Bad float. But also it would not start. Brought regulator up 4 psi and it would not start where it had been at 1/2 choke. So yanked choke all the way out and it fired right up BUT when decreasing it would start to pop pop pop and then die. Leaning out. I now know the wet jet does play a critical roll as it is way undersized (#60 rod won't even go through it) when I checked it while the muli-jet is right on size. Stupid me for thinking it came with it so it must be right. So will change out the well jet that came with it and put on the one that is a size 56 from the old one. So one issue fixed and on to the next. Being I had never handled a float before I did not know the proper weight. When I removed the old float right away I knew the "new" one was loaded with old dried up gas with a little new gas sloshing around from this weeks prior install.

Funny but I had this happen to me on my daily driver 53 Plymouth. Surging at high rpm but ok at idle. Made it home the 10 miles and popped the hood. Found that when I had pulled the water tube I had somehow pulled the coil wire loose. It was NEXT to the coil. Drove it for a week before it started acting up. One hell of an original coil to jump a 1/2 gap and still be drivable. Yep, check simple first.

well neither of the ball checks have a spring in them. They rattle. Guess they are vac operated ? My stupid 49 Buick had a vac operated ball bearing switch to disconnect the circuit from the accelerator pedal starter switch. It was on the carb and when she fired over the vac was supposed to open the contacts by sucking the ball bearing up. Needless to say it didn't work at times and is now run with just a bump switch under the dash. Always hanging up. But i think I found a major issue. The float BTW was a new float. I am putting the one off the RJH carb on it.

HA HA float had some gas in it !

Low speed jet tube. Has a small hole on one end with a larger hole 2/3's up. Does the small hole of the tube go closest to the screw (Bottom)

Here are the two needle and seat assemblies. On the left is the one that came with the drt-08 with rubber tip and the other is what came out of the RJH. I am liking the RJH type better as the seat for the needle just looks like it makes better contact. Bigger base for the float to rest on. Blowing through both each seems to be a positive stop. Opinions?

Here is a picture of what I found behind the pump jet plug. The small one is from the drt-08 and the larger one is off the RJH. Big difference between the two. Am I missing something that should be behind the DRT -08 pump jet ?

ok ball check for accel pump was stuck

well the 56 size drill bit won't fit in the well jet. The size 60 won't either. The multijet is right at a 48. I am going to remove that screw again for the ball check but I am not seeing anything behind it. Let me remove off the old carb and see what is back there

No, did not have this. Being I disconnected the the accel pump it has to be needle valve or the idle tube or too big a jet from what I can see. . What I do not know is what is supposed to behind the ball check if anything

So outside the jet size, needle valve and float, where else could too much fuel be getting in? I have an ice storm day off. Sunday was 81 and I had the 65 out for the first time this year. Go figure TX

Broke down and bought a cheap set of numbered bits off amazon with some amazon bucks I had. Since I will only be using them as gauges they should be good. Be here tomorrow.

I have this list and it is great help

I have a mini torch coming to solder the tube in and am going to see about getting a little more tension on the choke spring and getting the choke venturi to seat all the way down. I cannot find anything about sizing the jet with proper drill bit size. If anyone has a spare jet around and can size it with a drill bit I would appreciate it so I can ensure mine was not drilled out.

I am not looking at buying another kit from what I was told was a complete kit. All I have is an orange card with "Classic Carburetor Kit written on with number 2052. I am more concerned about getting this one working and being I was not the one who rebuilt it, I don't know what is working or not. I gave a run down of my observations as I dismantled it. Lots of new parts. Was a very experienced person who did the rebuild who came highly recommended.

I have not put anything back together yet till I get some guidance on a couple things namely the idle tube. That gets soldered to the screw correct? And how (sealer type) do I make it an air tight seal within the cast body? After that the choke venturi was not going all the way down to seat with choke spring attached. Weak spring ? Should the choke venturi seat all the way to the bottom ?

What is drill 56 ?

I am going off the papers he sent me of the break down of the DRT-08 from that time which look like they came from a service bulletin. Just that I did not take the carb apart before it was sent out for a rebuild. I have found two possible problem area's which i mention one being the low idle tube not soldered into the screw OR the cast housing. I am not sure what it is supposed to be soldered too but it says you have to have an airtight seal to the cast housing which tells me it could suck extra fuel past it. Problem I am having is too much gas getting past the needle valve which mine is new and looks good with a new float. So it either moving up past the choke tube or my low idle tube as far as I can tell. In the parts list it shows the tube and screw being one and it says soldered so my conclusion is to the screw. Can someone confirm that. The jet is the correct size. But when motor is turning over and when running it is pulling way to much fuel even when regulated down to 2.5 pounds.

Another observation after removing top assembly. Venturi choke assembly needs pushed down to fully seat even with choke spring installed. Unscrewed ball check housing screw and see nothing behind that screw. Low speed jet tube is not attached to the screw by any means. It mentions a soldered "sir tight" seal in the casting. Is this tube soldered to the screw then ? Stand pipe assembly (for choke venturi) has number "153" stamped into it followed by some symbol with a number 12 opposite side of the 153. There is no gasket for this underneath after unscrewing. Accel pump inner spring is new as is gasket Here is the jet size 48 13S ?

OK. carb off. Bowl and float off. Needle valve and seat new. Needle is rubber tipped. I noticed throttle shutter is not 100%$ closed when throttle lever is all the way closed. Going to take off top assembly and look at guts. If needle valve is seating where else would too much gas be getting pulled through ?

Yes and no reply from builder so am going to pull it off today. Does anyone know of the correct rebuild kit for DRT-08. Here is what was used. If it is correct then I need to start looking to see any washers were omitted as when turning over and running it is sucking way too much up. I have never worked on a carb like this but figure I might as well learn now. Just want to be sure the correct kit was used before I order a spare. Looking at paperwork from Broker-len there is not many places that fuel can get sucked through unmetered.

Now this 4 door car really interests me.

Here is another Ebay Mopar bargain. If this was closer to TX I would take a chance on it because I love the body style. Of course the interior needs lit on fire. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124060617249?ul_noapp=true

OK, disconnected accel pump and am seeing no difference in the amount of fuel dripping out when it was to run. It will run but can tell it is loading up by the blue cloud. I shut it down after 15 seconds but is still dripping a lot of gas when running

Thinking it has to be the needle valve. Will get off a little later after yard work. Yeah, already mowing the lawn down here. near 70.