Brooklyn Beer

Well the Chrysler finally threw a problem at me and would like to get a couple opinions as I think I already know what it is but other peoples are always welcome. Two weeks ago I changed the headlights out as I thought they looked kind of dim. Went to Wagner halogens. Still have old ones. They looked great on the ride to the diner the next morning but only 3 miles. Last night drive. On thursday morning we were going to have a nice day here. 60 and full sun so at 530 am away I go to work at 30 degree's. About a 34 mile drive. 5 miles from work I noticed the headlights were getting dimmer and dimmer yet the amp gauge was reading fine. Well past the point of no return now I kept driving to work and pulled in barely seeing 8 feet in front of the car. Nothing odd on the amp gauge. it was charging fine. At break (930) I went out with a multimeter and checked the battery. 6.3 volts. OK, so were charging and not off the battery. Car ran fine and never missed a beat. Was 27 at work when I got there. What could cause the headlights to go dimmer the farther I drove yet still charge the battery? Checked battery again before leaving and 6.3 volts and it is a pretty new battery. Drove the same distance home with lights off and the amp gauge was still reading fine. Battery still showing 6.3 this morning

If it can be found. And I need someone much more smarter then me about Franklins to know they have the right part to supply me with .

ugh. Think I will push it into the back corner and throw a cover on it. It sounds like this borders on unobtanium.

But that drawing is dated 1929 where as the one I posted is late 1930. Page 403 R-1631. Drawing 43887 correct ?

Can someone verify if this is the correct drawing? well. I can't load it so here is the detail from the club site 54656 CHASSIS SPRING REAR LEFT.PDF

So your saying take it out as an assembly, then give the shop the replacement spring and let them restack it ?

OK, sent him an email. Going through 151 parts manual I see it is leaf number 1, upper and lower. Page 403 Part R-1631. Guessing with the shackle this is unobtanium. So now that needs to come off. Looking at the job and for a repair shop to get right I assume giving them the entire stack so they have a way to weld and re-arch correctly? Getting it out doesn't look to hard. Getting it back together most likely will be. Can I remove the upper stack without unbolting the lower stack from the axle? This sound correct? Jack up axle to remove tire from axle and remove tire. place second jack under frame and lift car some and support off jack stand while other jack supports axle. Lower axle jack to find the "sweet spot" of not compressed nor hanging. Now should I remove the pivot bolts first or support the frame connection and remove those first? And any help on the best way too separate the stack.

What I like about old pictures is it shows the cars as they were and not as some folks may think. It is a great cure for "Nobody ever did that to their car back then!". White walls and skirts on a coupe? That be a Mercury ?

Not seeing Jim in the Roster

Notice that the chrysler logo is not on the nose and wonder if it is a Windsor Newport or if the highlander interior made it something else

and the Chrysler !

There goes my buick !

Lots of damage to my hands thanks to military experiences has made it quite hard some days when a 40 degree rain sets the chill into the joints.

For the past week I have been working on the shocks and shock links on my recently acquired 31 Franklin. Today it was warm enough to get out in the garage where the Franklin is sitting on the lift and remove the passenger side shock so I could change the oil and see about tuning it. Since the car arrived it has had a "lean" to the passenger side so was hoping that maybe it could be in the shock link itself. Remember i am new to the car. Well upon removing the shock I saw the problem of my lean right away. The top leaf spring behind the shock is broken in half. The break is so clean I am pretty sure it happened in transport when the driver drove off a ramp when shifting cars around. It is in a spot that unless you pulled a tire or put on a lift it would be very hard to see. Doubt PlyCar will care and just blow me off. So i ask, do I have to change that entire stacked assembly or can I just change the top leaf? And where on earth am I going to find it?

The great Bob Clark received my new correct carb and is changing out the seals and giving it a tune up. Question. What size is the ported vacuum and what would be the correct fitting to work with a 3/16 vac line (double flare)

Have always been in love with the 46-54 mopars. Best bang for the buck today for anyone wanting to get into the "old car" hobby. Parts are easy, rock solid dependable. I keep seeing them much cheaper then this and it hard not to buy them. My survivor 53 Cranbrook was just 1700 bucks and I use it to get to work 3 days a week just because I love driving old cars.

Didn't Oldsmobile wrap wire under the running boards for the same ?

I was thinking that myself. Just might snip it back and wire nut it.

If I know any plumbers. Ha. I will pass the picture along to the shop welders to see what they can make when bored.

Anymore tools that would come in handy I should make ?

Great advice by all. And I have the valve cage and lifter tube gasket job lurking over my shoulder which is going to be a learning experience for sure.

Cover just popped off with the tabs like you show, just no power through the switch

I think the switch is part of the housing.

Stupid heater switch is giving me fits is about the only problem so far and once I get the Franklin shocks sorted out I will put it on the lift I just installed as I am thinking it also needs sway bar bushings up front by the occasional "clunk" when turning onto a side street

It is a pull off type cover. The switch itself that is attached to the insert part and contains the socket is shot. Power to the socket. Good ground. New bulb. No power through the switch at the dome light to the socket and I do not see anyway to take the switch out of the dome light itself.